Euphyilla help - Page 2

Lsufan · 03/26/2018, 09:41 PM

Yea, I used to strain my frozen food before putting it into the tank. I would feed very little at a time to make sure it all got eaten. I would do a 20% water change weekly & I used gfo in a reactor when I didn’t have any po4. I also only had 2 small fish in my 40 breeder. It took me 2 years to figure it out but doing all of that with only 2 small fish was my problem. I believe it is also what caused me to get Dino in the tank.

I now have 5 fish & feed heavily without straining the food & actually add more food then they can eat on purpose. Slowed down on water changes & now I can keep some nutrients in the tank. My no3 has never got above 5ppm.

If u choose to try & raise them I would start slow. I would stop using gfo. It can really do more harm then good if u just use it to use it & don’t have a problem with po4. Then u will have to decide how u want to go about raising them. I would start by feeding more & see if that does any good. If they have a couple fish u want then add a couple fish. If u find u still can’t get anything to register on a test kit, u can try dosing no3.

As far as test kits, I like both salifert & Red Sea pro for no3. Red Sea is more presise, so u can tell the difference between say 1 ppm & 2 ppm. Salifert is easier to use but not as precise. I don’t think needing the exact number is very important. On salifert I just shoot for a little color & I’m ok, as long as it’s not clear. I use Hanna phosphorus checker for po4.

acso151 · 03/27/2018, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lsufan

Yea, I used to strain my frozen food before putting it into the tank. I would feed very little at a time to make sure it all got eaten. I would do a 20% water change weekly & I used gfo in a reactor when I didn’t have any po4. I also only had 2 small fish in my 40 breeder. It took me 2 years to figure it out but doing all of that with only 2 small fish was my problem. I believe it is also what caused me to get Dino in the tank.

I now have 5 fish & feed heavily without straining the food & actually add more food then they can eat on purpose. Slowed down on water changes & now I can keep some nutrients in the tank. My no3 has never got above 5ppm.

If u choose to try & raise them I would start slow. I would stop using gfo. It can really do more harm then good if u just use it to use it & don’t have a problem with po4. Then u will have to decide how u want to go about raising them. I would start by feeding more & see if that does any good. If they have a couple fish u want then add a couple fish. If u find u still can’t get anything to register on a test kit, u can try dosing no3.

As far as test kits, I like both salifert & Red Sea pro for no3. Red Sea is more presise, so u can tell the difference between say 1 ppm & 2 ppm. Salifert is easier to use but not as precise. I don’t think needing the exact number is very important. On salifert I just shoot for a little color & I’m ok, as long as it’s not clear. I use Hanna phosphorus checker for po4.

I was straining my frozen food also. I think I have a plan. No GFO, feed heavy and add a fish or two. Still debating filter socks as I do change every 3 days and don’t want to change to many things at once.

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FishD@ddy · 03/27/2018, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acso151

I was straining my frozen food also. I think I have a plan. No GFO, feed heavy and add a fish or two. Still debating filter socks as I do change every 3 days and don’t want to change to many things at once.

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I say start heavy feeding and add fish. Then slowly take GFO offline.

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acso151 · 03/27/2018, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FishD@ddy

I say start heavy feeding and add fish. Then slowly take GFO offline.

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Last time I changed carbon I left out GFO but that was only a week ago. I think I will run socks for now and re evaluate in a month to avoid to many changes. Thanks

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sfdan · 03/27/2018, 01:56 PM

Yeah I'll just add to this. I had an SPS tank with low nutrients and my LPS were always fairly closed up. Still healthy though, as they were growing and splitting, but just not opening up the tissue all that much, even in low flow areas of the tank.

Due to a Dino problem I really raised up the Nitrates and Phosphates, and my LPS never looked better. I wouldn't say it was great for the SPS, though who knows how much of that was due to Dinos, but the LPS did and still look great in the high nutrient environment. I'll all add that LPS are pretty much impervious to Dinos

. I don't know what exactly the sweet spot is, but I'm sure for both LPS and SPS it is higher than nitrates of 0, and the sweet spot for LPS is probably higher than for SPS so they'll always be a compromise.

I'm not necessarily saying you should do it, but if you want to raise Nitrates and only Nitrates, you can dose it on its own and then see how your tank reacts (and you can buy it very cheaply as well... search for "stump remover"... though there are more expensive alternatives as well). If you just start feeding more you'll also be adding more phosphates and other things, which may be what you want or maybe not.

acso151 · 03/27/2018, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfdan

Yeah I'll just add to this. I had an SPS tank with low nutrients and my LPS were always fairly closed up. Still healthy though, as they were growing and splitting, but just not opening up the tissue all that much, even in low flow areas of the tank.

Due to a Dino problem I really raised up the Nitrates and Phosphates, and my LPS never looked better. I wouldn't say it was great for the SPS, though who knows how much of that was due to Dinos, but the LPS did and still look great in the high nutrient environment. I'll all add that LPS are pretty much impervious to Dinos

. I don't know what exactly the sweet spot is, but I'm sure for both LPS and SPS it is higher than nitrates of 0, and the sweet spot for LPS is probably higher than for SPS so they'll always be a compromise.

I'm not necessarily saying you should do it, but if you want to raise Nitrates and only Nitrates, you can dose it on its own and then see how your tank reacts (and you can buy it very cheaply as well... search for "stump remover"... though there are more expensive alternatives as well). If you just start feeding more you'll also be adding more phosphates and other things, which may be what you want or maybe not.

Thank you. I will start researching dosing no3 as this sounds like a possible option. Just want to take slow and purposeful.

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03/26/2018, 09:41 PM	#26
Lsufan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 1,410	Yea, I used to strain my frozen food before putting it into the tank. I would feed very little at a time to make sure it all got eaten. I would do a 20% water change weekly & I used gfo in a reactor when I didn’t have any po4. I also only had 2 small fish in my 40 breeder. It took me 2 years to figure it out but doing all of that with only 2 small fish was my problem. I believe it is also what caused me to get Dino in the tank. I now have 5 fish & feed heavily without straining the food & actually add more food then they can eat on purpose. Slowed down on water changes & now I can keep some nutrients in the tank. My no3 has never got above 5ppm. If u choose to try & raise them I would start slow. I would stop using gfo. It can really do more harm then good if u just use it to use it & don’t have a problem with po4. Then u will have to decide how u want to go about raising them. I would start by feeding more & see if that does any good. If they have a couple fish u want then add a couple fish. If u find u still can’t get anything to register on a test kit, u can try dosing no3. As far as test kits, I like both salifert & Red Sea pro for no3. Red Sea is more presise, so u can tell the difference between say 1 ppm & 2 ppm. Salifert is easier to use but not as precise. I don’t think needing the exact number is very important. On salifert I just shoot for a little color & I’m ok, as long as it’s not clear. I use Hanna phosphorus checker for po4.

03/27/2018, 01:56 PM	#30
sfdan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: San Francisco Posts: 451	Yeah I'll just add to this. I had an SPS tank with low nutrients and my LPS were always fairly closed up. Still healthy though, as they were growing and splitting, but just not opening up the tissue all that much, even in low flow areas of the tank. Due to a Dino problem I really raised up the Nitrates and Phosphates, and my LPS never looked better. I wouldn't say it was great for the SPS, though who knows how much of that was due to Dinos, but the LPS did and still look great in the high nutrient environment. I'll all add that LPS are pretty much impervious to Dinos . I don't know what exactly the sweet spot is, but I'm sure for both LPS and SPS it is higher than nitrates of 0, and the sweet spot for LPS is probably higher than for SPS so they'll always be a compromise. I'm not necessarily saying you should do it, but if you want to raise Nitrates and only Nitrates, you can dose it on its own and then see how your tank reacts (and you can buy it very cheaply as well... search for "stump remover"... though there are more expensive alternatives as well). If you just start feeding more you'll also be adding more phosphates and other things, which may be what you want or maybe not.