Beananimal on Dual Overflow

[dwillingm]

Hi,

I have a 180 gallon (72 x 24 x 25) with dual overflows offset about 5 inches from each corner. The overflows are drilled with 2 1.5 bulkheads in each. My return pump will be pushing around 1400 gph.

Will this modification of the beananimal design work to keep each overflow balanced?

2 syphon drains with gate valves (1 in each overflow).
1 emergency drain in the right overflow
Return pump through the last remaining bulkhead in left overflow

Thanks for the feedback.

[aaronpentz]

The bean has three drains.

One full siphon
One trickle but able to go full siphon
One dry

With dual overflows there's only one way to setup a bean. It doesn't matter which side you pick but they need to be as follows.

Side 1

Full siphon
Dry emergency

Side 2

Trickle
Tank return

Doing it this way will keep both overflows balanced and water flowing in them. Any other way and you'll get stagnant water in one

The Herbie method can be done but you should put a balance pipe between the two overflows and return over the tank wall





Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[dwillingm]

Thanks for the help. I understand how the overflow is going to work with the full siphon in it. I do not quite understand what will control how much water will go down the overflow with the trickle pipe. Is this regulated by closing the valve on the full siphon? Am I better off going with two durso drains and two returns?

Is it a viable option to run a full siphon in each overflow, each with its own valve?

[Vinny Kreyling]

Durso's tend to be VERY slow flow set ups or they get noisy.
Yes the trickle is regulated by the siphon valve.
If you run a siphon in each overflow with valves you get a Herbie system& still need the trickle option in each box.

[dwillingm]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

If you run a siphon in each overflow with valves you get a Herbie system& still need the trickle option in each box.

Is it an option to only run the trickle standpipe in one overflow (assuming it can handle the flow from the return pump in an emergency). Or is it required to have the trickle pipe in both overflows? I am trying to reserve the fourth bulkhead for the return to avoid coming over the back.

Thanks!

[Vinny Kreyling]

According to the fellow above it is.
I have no experience running a Bean system but do with a Herbie.

[fishgate]

Check out this video I made.

https://youtu.be/RYhAp6GFNz8

[dwillingm]

Originally Posted by fishgate

Check out this video I made.

https://youtu.be/RYhAp6GFNz8

Excellent video, and this is exactly what I am planning. I have a few questions for clarification:

What is the purpose of the holes drilled on top of the open channels?

What is the benefit of having the u shape on top of the drains as opposed to straight pipes?

Are your compression fittings that allow you to turn the pipes they same thing as unions?

Based on my sump design, if the entire contents of the sump was pumped into the aquarium, I think it would flood... but all of the bulkheads are 1.5” and ineo-en drain could handle all of the flow from the pump. Minimal to no risk right?

[fishgate]

Originally Posted by dwillingm

Excellent video, and this is exactly what I am planning. I have a few questions for clarification:

What is the purpose of the holes drilled on top of the open channels?

What is the benefit of having the u shape on top of the drains as opposed to straight pipes?

Are your compression fittings that allow you to turn the pipes they same thing as unions?

Based on my sump design, if the entire contents of the sump was pumped into the aquarium, I think it would flood... but all of the bulkheads are 1.5” and ineo-en drain could handle all of the flow from the pump. Minimal to no risk right?

Thanks!

The drilled hole acts as a vent to allow water to flow properly.

U shape prevents a vortex.

For practical purposes, yes, the compression fittings also act as unions.

Making your return compartment smaller is the key to not flooding the main tank.

Also put your drain pipes just below the surface of the sump water level.

[dwillingm]

Originally Posted by fishgate

Thanks!

The drilled hole acts as a vent to allow water to flow properly.

So this hole is only needed on top of the open drains, not the main siphon drains?

How much water do you allow to flow through the open drains during regular operation?

[fishgate]

Originally Posted by dwillingm

So this hole is only needed on top of the open drains, not the main siphon drains?

How much water do you allow to flow through the open drains during regular operation?

Correct - only needed for the open channels.

The trick is have as little as possible trickling through the open channel. It isn't possible to maintain a full siphon without some trickle down the open channel. Once I get the full channel stable, I slowly close the full channel until the water just starts to rise. This results in some, but not too much water in the open channel.

[dwillingm]

Originally Posted by fishgate

Correct - only needed for the open channels.

The trick is have as little as possible trickling through the open channel. It isn't possible to maintain a full siphon without some trickle down the open channel. Once I get the full channel stable, I slowly close the full channel until the water just starts to rise. This results in some, but not too much water in the open channel.

You have been so helpful! Thanks! Just trying to understand the setup completely.

Does the U shaped fitting with hole on top on the open channel work better as an open channel than just using a straight pipe open channel? I suppose it is quieter this way? Can’t wait to get this setup!

I

[fishgate]

Originally Posted by dwillingm

You have been so helpful! Thanks! Just trying to understand the setup completely.

Does the U shaped fitting with hole on top on the open channel work better as an open channel than just using a straight pipe open channel? I suppose it is quieter this way? Can’t wait to get this setup!

I

It would for sure be louder. Both of the "U" connectors are simply friction fit anyway since they don't need to be water-tight. You could make them and try them both ways. I think you are going to prefer them with the U on.

[fishgate]

I also highly suggest if making this from scratch to use all 4 bulkheads with slip connections on both sides. The weir side full siphon and drain tubes just need to be set into the bulkhead and not permanently connected (much easier to put in and take out if they are slip). For the bottom I just like slip better since it is easier to get a water-tight seal with slip vs screw.