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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 103
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ARO VHO ballast output stinks
I've got an Ice Cap 430 over my 45 running 3 strips, and thought I would put 2 more tubes over the tank. So, I got the ARO220 as it seemed like a bargain at $50 including the endcaps.
But the ARO tubes are definitely much dimmer than the tubes from Ice Cap. Not only that, but there is a noticeable flicker from them, not something I would expect from an "electronic" ballast as they advertised (I should say that I am particularly sensitive to flicker though; even a computer monitor at 100 Hz has a noticeable flicker to me). So what the heck is the story with these ballasts? are they really VHO ballasts, and are they even electronic for that matter? I'm thinking I'd like to return them, but then the shipping would be almost as much as the stupid ballast. Anyone else with + or - experiences? |
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#2 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 17,289
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wow flicker on a 100hz monitor, is it old. lol. J/k i nkow what you meen. i find its from me shaking my leg and making the monitor wobble.
Never used the ballast but know some who do and I couldnt see it flicker. Maybe its a bad balast but your probably used to the icecap? Sell it on ebay lol so someone else pays shipping and buy another icecap so they are the same.
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Peters, MO
Posts: 175
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I'm using one and I don't notice any flicker. I'm like you, I can notice flicker quite easily.
As far as the brightness goes I do not have anything to compare to since I am only running 2 VHOs, but 2 110W VHOs on the ARO ballast are definately brighter than my old 4 X 55W PC setup.
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TimBob Current Tank Info: 75G Mixed Reef + 20G Sump/Fuge - 2X250 MH, 2X110 VHO, 28X Turnover |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 103
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Well, the flickering that was present at first died off. It may have just been new and working itself in or something. It was a little odd...
The bulbs are still definitely dimmer than the Ice Cap though. Maybe it just has to do with Ice Cap being the better/more efficient ballast? Anyway, I went ahead and hooked up the lights and the tank really looks great with the additional lighting even if it isn't quite as bright as expected. Mostly I'm ticked off because it took all night to redo the wiring, and then didn't really function up to my expectations. |
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#5 |
Texas Reefer
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 13,656
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I would check the wiring (especially the end caps) and make sure everything is seated well. Maybe you got a lemon ballast though.
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__________________
Rich Overton 150G cube FOWLR, 30g sump, ReefKeeperII, 3x Koralia 1400's, QuiteOne 3000, Reef Octopus DNWB150, 4x 30w Par38 LED. Current Tank Info: 36x36x27 150g |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: 92869
Posts: 784
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Have you tried swapping the bulbs to make sure it's not the bulb?
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#7 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Quote:
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 103
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OK, I wish I had something to actually measure light output, but I do have a temp probe so I figured that might be somewhat useful in getting a rough estimate of bulb output. After starting out at room temp, here are the results:
ARO driven bulb temp: 5 min - 92 degrees 10 min - 105 degrees Ice Cap driven bulb temp: 5 min - 102 degrees 10 min - 120 degrees I don't know if it's working as it's supposed to or not, but I'm still debating whether it will go back. |
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