float valve

ReefTourist · 02/23/2006, 07:22 AM

So I install my float valve that has an adjustable dial by siliconing in an acrylic bracket. Turns out that I mounted it at the lowest level. So at this point I can only make the water level higher than it is now. This works, but if the power is off the water rises above my tall baffles (but still 2-3" below the top of the sump).

Do you set your water level so that even when the power is off your sump compartments don't combine, or do you not worry about that and run a higher level that combines the compartments w/ power out but doesn't overflow the sump?

(lol how's that for a run-on sentence... er.. question)

tygger · 02/23/2006, 07:42 AM

I have mine setup where the water will be combined. It doesn't make a difference as long as you keep the water IN the sump during a power outage.

ReefTourist · 02/24/2006, 06:53 AM

Turns out that I will need to move the bracket down anyway b/c the skimmer is not in the optimal depth, and I don't have the height between sump/display to raise it up any higher.

Thanks for the vote of confidence tygger.

Oh, I also found that the float valve closes fine, but the threaded backside continues to drip. So that's part of the reason for the constantly rising water level. Guess I should read the instructions closer since they say you "may need to use teflon tape on the threaded connectors"

tygger · 02/24/2006, 07:31 AM

Which float kit did you go with?

chilyb56 · 02/24/2006, 07:46 AM

I had to use teflon tape on the one I have (kent) to get a better seal. Working well so far

ReefTourist · 02/24/2006, 07:57 AM

Coralife's float valve. It has an adjustable dial. I thought that clock-wise would lower the water level so all the way counter-clockwise would be the highest level, but noooo.

So now it's mounted too high. Oh well.

I'll detach the acrylic bracket I made, scrape off the old silicone, move it down to a marked pre-measured location, re-silicone it, and teflon tape the threads this time.

tygger · 02/24/2006, 08:39 AM

Is this the one you're talking about?

HERE

If so, I have a similar one from Kent that I use as a auto shut off for my RO/DI. On my Kent one, it says that it's not for use as a auto top off in a sump.

ReefTourist · 02/24/2006, 09:07 AM

Yes, only w/o the auto-shutoff. I'm not (and will not be) running RO/DI straight to it. I have a stand-alone 5g gas can that's gravity fed. In fact the instructions list gravity-fed topoff as a possible use for it.

02/23/2006, 07:22 AM	#1
ReefTourist Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Culpeper, VA Posts: 108	float valve So I install my float valve that has an adjustable dial by siliconing in an acrylic bracket. Turns out that I mounted it at the lowest level. So at this point I can only make the water level higher than it is now. This works, but if the power is off the water rises above my tall baffles (but still 2-3" below the top of the sump). Do you set your water level so that even when the power is off your sump compartments don't combine, or do you not worry about that and run a higher level that combines the compartments w/ power out but doesn't overflow the sump? (lol how's that for a run-on sentence... er.. question)

02/24/2006, 07:31 AM	#4
tygger Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 1,631	Which float kit did you go with? __________________ 15g Nano 72g reef + 29g sump/fuge

02/23/2006, 07:42 AM	#2
tygger Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 1,631	I have mine setup where the water will be combined. It doesn't make a difference as long as you keep the water IN the sump during a power outage.

02/24/2006, 06:53 AM	#3
ReefTourist Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Culpeper, VA Posts: 108	Turns out that I will need to move the bracket down anyway b/c the skimmer is not in the optimal depth, and I don't have the height between sump/display to raise it up any higher. Thanks for the vote of confidence tygger. Oh, I also found that the float valve closes fine, but the threaded backside continues to drip. So that's part of the reason for the constantly rising water level. Guess I should read the instructions closer since they say you "may need to use teflon tape on the threaded connectors"

02/24/2006, 07:46 AM	#5
chilyb56 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 106	I had to use teflon tape on the one I have (kent) to get a better seal. Working well so far

02/24/2006, 07:57 AM	#6
ReefTourist Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Culpeper, VA Posts: 108	Coralife's float valve. It has an adjustable dial. I thought that clock-wise would lower the water level so all the way counter-clockwise would be the highest level, but noooo. So now it's mounted too high. Oh well. I'll detach the acrylic bracket I made, scrape off the old silicone, move it down to a marked pre-measured location, re-silicone it, and teflon tape the threads this time.

02/24/2006, 08:39 AM	#7
tygger Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 1,631	Is this the one you're talking about? HERE If so, I have a similar one from Kent that I use as a auto shut off for my RO/DI. On my Kent one, it says that it's not for use as a auto top off in a sump.

02/24/2006, 09:07 AM	#8
ReefTourist Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Culpeper, VA Posts: 108	Yes, only w/o the auto-shutoff. I'm not (and will not be) running RO/DI straight to it. I have a stand-alone 5g gas can that's gravity fed. In fact the instructions list gravity-fed topoff as a possible use for it.