Watts Per Gallon for Live Rock Only Tank?

HowardW · 02/28/2006, 02:07 PM

In general, how many watts per gallon are usually required for a live rock only tank that contains Florida gulf rock with Christmas Tree worms and asst. other creatures? I know it's more than a fish only tank and less than an exotic reef setup, but I'm not sure how much. Would I be safe using (3) 48" standard tubes like 50/50s and Aquasun on a 55 gal. tank or do I need to step up to something better like power compacts or MH?

Also, I heard that watts per gallon is misleading and the real thing to look at is the CRI rating and lumens per bulb, not just the wattage per bulb, is this true?

Entropy · 02/28/2006, 02:10 PM

To Reef Central

You should need more than 2x40w IMO, but if you are starting from scratch I would retrofit a 2x110w VHO setup. You could build it for about $125 shipped if you have basic wiring skills. That would allow you to keep quite a nice range of simple corals if you decide to go that route. If you use a Workhorse 7 ballast, you could start out with NO bulbs and switch to VHO later as well.

unit91 · 02/28/2006, 02:21 PM

Hey, in response to part of your question, as a general rule of thumb, metal halide bulbs are twice as efficient as florecents, so if you have a 150W MH bulb, it will be about as bright as 300W worth of florecents. a completely adequate 260W PC fixture can be had for quite cheap that would do the trick for LR just fine. And I'm quite sure it will put out about 10000-12000 lumens. Lumens are a much better measure of output than Watts, that is only the power consumption. My advice is get MH if you can afford the cost outset as it will grow them faster, and brighter is always better. It is also a wider colour spectrum. PC will be cheaper in cost outset, but more expensive to run month after month, year after year due to less power efficiency.

thrlride · 02/28/2006, 02:32 PM

I love these general rules.

This is arguable: MH > T5 > VHO > PC > NO > TTFBSLIAC

Since you don't want anything fancy just do like Entropy said and get a VHO setup.

jda · 02/28/2006, 02:35 PM

I use halides on my FOWLR because I like the shimmer lines and the 2 of them provide more light than the 4 6' VHOs that I used before with less watts.

NO lights can grow coralline and marcro very well, and keep your rock looking very good.

I am sorry to bring this up, but under all but the highest light and tank conditions, the stuff on your rock will eventually die. Some of it is going to die anyway. ...so if you want to keep the creatures on your rock alive as long as possible, then you need to treat your tank like a full-blown reef.

HowardW · 02/28/2006, 02:43 PM

Thanks for the replies guys! Ok, so standard 48" flourescent tubes are out of the question. I was just hesitant on bulbs that get really hot because it's an acrylic tank with an acrylic top.

BTW.......what is NO lighting???

thrlride · 02/28/2006, 02:45 PM

NO is Normal Output lighting.

jda · 02/28/2006, 02:46 PM

NO is normal output... or the standard 48" tubes that you are talking about.

Check out VHO on a workhorse 7 ballast.

Plenty of people use 400W and 1000W halides near acrylic and it does not melt.

You might have to ditch the top because it holds in a lot of heat and does not do a good job with gas exchange. Most people go topless

.

unit91 · 02/28/2006, 02:56 PM

If you want MH lighting don't forget the chiller you'll undoubtedly need!

thrlride · 02/28/2006, 03:03 PM

Crap, I should have bought a chiller a year ago then because my 90 has been running with two 250 watt DE halides the whole time and never gets over 80 degrees.

marcom1234 · 02/28/2006, 03:42 PM

Go for a T5HO 4x54 setup..... your live rock will be fine

02/28/2006, 02:07 PM	#1
HowardW Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Aurora, IL Posts: 1,763	Watts Per Gallon for Live Rock Only Tank? In general, how many watts per gallon are usually required for a live rock only tank that contains Florida gulf rock with Christmas Tree worms and asst. other creatures? I know it's more than a fish only tank and less than an exotic reef setup, but I'm not sure how much. Would I be safe using (3) 48" standard tubes like 50/50s and Aquasun on a 55 gal. tank or do I need to step up to something better like power compacts or MH? Also, I heard that watts per gallon is misleading and the real thing to look at is the CRI rating and lumens per bulb, not just the wattage per bulb, is this true?

02/28/2006, 02:10 PM	#2
Entropy Texas Reefer Join Date: May 2003 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 13,656	*To Reef Central* You should need more than 2x40w IMO, but if you are starting from scratch I would retrofit a 2x110w VHO setup. You could build it for about $125 shipped if you have basic wiring skills. That would allow you to keep quite a nice range of simple corals if you decide to go that route. If you use a Workhorse 7 ballast, you could start out with NO bulbs and switch to VHO later as well. __________________ Rich Overton 150G cube FOWLR, 30g sump, ReefKeeperII, 3x Koralia 1400's, QuiteOne 3000, Reef Octopus DNWB150, 4x 30w Par38 LED. Current Tank Info: 36x36x27 150g

02/28/2006, 02:21 PM	#3
unit91 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: BC Posts: 52	Hey, in response to part of your question, as a general rule of thumb, metal halide bulbs are twice as efficient as florecents, so if you have a 150W MH bulb, it will be about as bright as 300W worth of florecents. a completely adequate 260W PC fixture can be had for quite cheap that would do the trick for LR just fine. And I'm quite sure it will put out about 10000-12000 lumens. Lumens are a much better measure of output than Watts, that is only the power consumption. My advice is get MH if you can afford the cost outset as it will grow them faster, and brighter is always better. It is also a wider colour spectrum. PC will be cheaper in cost outset, but more expensive to run month after month, year after year due to less power efficiency. __________________ 72gal bowfront fowlr w/approx 40lbs fiji LR + 50lbs LS, 20gal sump. Rena XP3 canister, Remora skimmer 1-Picasso trigger 1-Coral Beauty 1-Diadema Dottyback 1-Six Line Wrasse 1-Percula Clown Current Tank Info: 72gal bowfront w/overflow, fowlr

02/28/2006, 02:32 PM	#4
thrlride Aka lemmywinks Join Date: May 2003 Location: Harrisburg, NC Posts: 8,017	I love these general rules. This is arguable: MH > T5 > VHO > PC > NO > TTFBSLIAC Since you don't want anything fancy just do like Entropy said and get a VHO setup. __________________ Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD)

02/28/2006, 02:45 PM	#7
thrlride Aka lemmywinks Join Date: May 2003 Location: Harrisburg, NC Posts: 8,017	NO is Normal Output lighting. __________________ Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD)

02/28/2006, 02:35 PM	#5
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	I use halides on my FOWLR because I like the shimmer lines and the 2 of them provide more light than the 4 6' VHOs that I used before with less watts. NO lights can grow coralline and marcro very well, and keep your rock looking very good. I am sorry to bring this up, but under all but the highest light and tank conditions, the stuff on your rock will eventually die. Some of it is going to die anyway. ...so if you want to keep the creatures on your rock alive as long as possible, then you need to treat your tank like a full-blown reef.

02/28/2006, 02:43 PM	#6
HowardW Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Aurora, IL Posts: 1,763	Thanks for the replies guys! Ok, so standard 48" flourescent tubes are out of the question. I was just hesitant on bulbs that get really hot because it's an acrylic tank with an acrylic top. BTW.......what is NO lighting???

02/28/2006, 02:46 PM	#8
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	NO is normal output... or the standard 48" tubes that you are talking about. Check out VHO on a workhorse 7 ballast. Plenty of people use 400W and 1000W halides near acrylic and it does not melt. You might have to ditch the top because it holds in a lot of heat and does not do a good job with gas exchange. Most people go topless .

02/28/2006, 02:56 PM	#9
unit91 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: BC Posts: 52	If you want MH lighting don't forget the chiller you'll undoubtedly need! __________________ 72gal bowfront fowlr w/approx 40lbs fiji LR + 50lbs LS, 20gal sump. Rena XP3 canister, Remora skimmer 1-Picasso trigger 1-Coral Beauty 1-Diadema Dottyback 1-Six Line Wrasse 1-Percula Clown Current Tank Info: 72gal bowfront w/overflow, fowlr

02/28/2006, 03:03 PM	#10
thrlride Aka lemmywinks Join Date: May 2003 Location: Harrisburg, NC Posts: 8,017	Crap, I should have bought a chiller a year ago then because my 90 has been running with two 250 watt DE halides the whole time and never gets over 80 degrees. __________________ Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD)

02/28/2006, 03:42 PM	#11
marcom1234 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Battle Creek, Michigan Posts: 97	Go for a T5HO 4x54 setup..... your live rock will be fine