Best procedure for quarantine Yellow Tang

BodiBuilt · 03/03/2006, 09:38 PM

I've planed to include a Yellow Tang into my system,but the guy @ my LFS warned me how tangs can be especially prone to getting ich, and proper quarantine procedures should be followed. My concern is that after I have quarantined this fish, what is to prevent the fish from illness when I move it to my display tank? Any advise welcome.

iCam · 03/03/2006, 09:44 PM

There's not really anything to prevent it from becoming ill once in the display tank, but if they are healthy, they are less likely to acquire things like ich.

I didn't really quarantine, but it's not a bad idea to keep from introducing parasites, and just to monitor your fish to make sure it's healthy before putting it in the display with everything else.

jeffbrig · 03/03/2006, 10:29 PM

IMO, quarantine for any fish, but particularly tangs, involves 4+ weeks of hyposalinity to combat ich, while watching for any other signs to disease. I have a Yellow Tang in QT as we speak, as well as a PBT and a Purple in a 55g QT. The yellow tang showed signs of black ich (Paravortex worms) early on, and received a 5 minute freshwater dip that was very effective. The fish are currently on day 5 of hypo right now. It's a pretty good bet that any lingering disease/infection will present itself during this QT/observation period. If so, we'll deal with them as they come up. It's also a good opportunity for the fish to learn to eat various prepared foods - frozen, flake, nori, whatever.

This article is worth a quick read:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-1...ture/index.php

sean48183 · 03/03/2006, 10:34 PM

Ditto Jeffbrig. Also when you move your fish from qt to main tank reacclimate with standard procedures. And don't medicate unless necessary.

BodiBuilt · 03/03/2006, 10:41 PM

Thank's for the great article reference jeffbrig. To clarify one thing for me... am I quarantining tang to inspect/observe it for things it may already be contaminated with, or because it is such a delicate species, prone to illness? If the latter, what do I do to prevent illness upon transferring fish from quarantine to display? Thanks for advise!

sean48183 · 03/03/2006, 10:49 PM

Actually you are doing the qt for both those reasons. There is nothing per say that keeps them from taking it with them. If they get stressed out in your display it might surface. What fish are in the tank he is being added to?

BodiBuilt · 03/03/2006, 11:06 PM

135g with {1}jeweled/lawnmower blennie{1} bangai cardinal{1}flame Gobi{1}hectors Gobi{2}green chromis, and several black mollies which I have successfully acclimated to saltwater!

I also plan to purchase the tang small (2-3").

jeffbrig · 03/03/2006, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BodiBuilt
Thank's for the great article reference jeffbrig. To clarify one thing for me... am I quarantining tang to inspect/observe it for things it may already be contaminated with, or because it is such a delicate species, prone to illness? If the latter, what do I do to prevent illness upon transferring fish from quarantine to display? Thanks for advise!

Ditto sean....both are reasons for quarantine.

Fish disease outbreaks are generally the result of shipping stress and contaminated tanks that the fish passes through before purchase. These illnesses will become readily apparent while the fish is in QT. By observing and treating you get a chance to beat the disease, and you don't introduce the fish into the display until it appears 100% healthy. If you are diligent, at this point your fish is likely 100% disease free. Ich is the one thing I treat for automatically, as it can be transported without visible symptoms.

Here's another handy reference identifying common fish diseases:
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...hdiseases.html

sean48183 · 03/03/2006, 11:23 PM

What is your treatment jeffbrig. If you are refering to a freshwater dip I agree. But I don't suggest adding copper to the tank without a visible sign of ich. If you keep the fish in the qt long enough and it is harboring the ich it will surface. No need to subject the fish to the harshness of copper IMO.

Bodibuilt I don't think you will have a problem with your tang stressing in your display. Those are all relatively docile fish that shouldn't really bother the tang too much. 75% of the time it's fish harrassment that stresses the fish out the most.

A couple other tips on qting. Keep an eye on your ammonia. QT's tend to build up ammonia pretty quickly. Have some water change water ready to go. Also give your tang seaweed everyday while in qt. This is a big staple of their diet and will help to strengthen your tang up. I use seaweed selects the 24 hour type. Stay away from the 6 hour it tends to disentigrate rather quickly.

jeffbrig · 03/04/2006, 12:11 AM

I run hyposalinity at 1.009 SG for a minimum of 4 weeks on all of my fish purchases. It is a painless treatment, and probably the least traumatic that you can perform on your fish. They show no signs of distress. I successfully brought an achilles tang that had ich through hypo a few months ago, and have had no recurrence. The purple and power blue currently in QT are showing a few spots but both are eating well and seem otherwise unaffected. A flame hawk in my other QT (10g) showed a few spots last week, but those have disappeared as well.

I do keep copper in my medicine cabinet, but I've never had reason to use it.

Excellent point on the ammonia. I run a large biowheel filter on my 55g QT, which is great at processing ammonia. I still find myself doing 50% water changes a couple of times a week to keep water parameters in check (ammonia early on, nitrates later).

steve the plumb · 03/04/2006, 12:32 AM

cleaner shrimps are good to have.I don't know if a uv unit kills ich.I never had ich in this tank ever.I have 3 yellow tangs 1 purple 1 kole 1 clown.I have other tangs and fish that have died but never from ich.

BodiBuilt · 03/04/2006, 10:48 AM

Thanks to everyone for all the great advise!

The Reefer91 · 03/04/2006, 11:09 AM

i believe UV units do kill ick, but they kill bactieria( good and bad) and other micro-organisms you might want. if you fish is severely suffering from ick, running a UV might help, but do not count on it being the miracle cure.

HTH

jeffbrig · 03/04/2006, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by steve the plumb
cleaner shrimps are good to have.

If you're referring to ich, this is a common misconception. Cleaner shrimp are good for removing external parasites, but ich is an internal parasite. It burrows in the flesh for a period of several days before the telltale white salt grains are visible. Gut analysis has confirmed that cleaner shrimp do not eat ich parasites.

Read here under "biological cleaners"
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...2004/mini4.htm

03/03/2006, 09:38 PM	#1
BodiBuilt Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,326	Best procedure for quarantine Yellow Tang I've planed to include a Yellow Tang into my system,but the guy @ my LFS warned me how tangs can be especially prone to getting ich, and proper quarantine procedures should be followed. My concern is that after I have quarantined this fish, what is to prevent the fish from illness when I move it to my display tank? Any advise welcome.

03/03/2006, 10:29 PM	#3
jeffbrig Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 5,548	IMO, quarantine for any fish, but particularly tangs, involves 4+ weeks of hyposalinity to combat ich, while watching for any other signs to disease. I have a Yellow Tang in QT as we speak, as well as a PBT and a Purple in a 55g QT. The yellow tang showed signs of black ich (Paravortex worms) early on, and received a 5 minute freshwater dip that was very effective. The fish are currently on day 5 of hypo right now. It's a pretty good bet that any lingering disease/infection will present itself during this QT/observation period. If so, we'll deal with them as they come up. It's also a good opportunity for the fish to learn to eat various prepared foods - frozen, flake, nori, whatever. This article is worth a quick read: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-1...ture/index.php __________________ Beware the power of stupid people in large groups..... Current Tank Info: formerly 250g room divider

03/03/2006, 10:41 PM	#5
BodiBuilt Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,326	Thank's for the great article reference jeffbrig. To clarify one thing for me... am I quarantining tang to inspect/observe it for things it may already be contaminated with, or because it is such a delicate species, prone to illness? If the latter, what do I do to prevent illness upon transferring fish from quarantine to display? Thanks for advise! __________________ Tell Them Dave Was Here Current Tank Info: 280g In Progress

03/03/2006, 11:06 PM	#7
BodiBuilt Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,326	135g with {1}jeweled/lawnmower blennie{1} bangai cardinal{1}flame Gobi{1}hectors Gobi{2}green chromis, and several black mollies which I have successfully acclimated to saltwater! I also plan to purchase the tang small (2-3"). __________________ Tell Them Dave Was Here Current Tank Info: 280g In Progress

03/04/2006, 12:11 AM	#10
jeffbrig Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 5,548	I run hyposalinity at 1.009 SG for a minimum of 4 weeks on all of my fish purchases. It is a painless treatment, and probably the least traumatic that you can perform on your fish. They show no signs of distress. I successfully brought an achilles tang that had ich through hypo a few months ago, and have had no recurrence. The purple and power blue currently in QT are showing a few spots but both are eating well and seem otherwise unaffected. A flame hawk in my other QT (10g) showed a few spots last week, but those have disappeared as well. I do keep copper in my medicine cabinet, but I've never had reason to use it. Excellent point on the ammonia. I run a large biowheel filter on my 55g QT, which is great at processing ammonia. I still find myself doing 50% water changes a couple of times a week to keep water parameters in check (ammonia early on, nitrates later). __________________ Beware the power of stupid people in large groups..... Current Tank Info: formerly 250g room divider

03/03/2006, 09:44 PM	#2
iCam Window Seat Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: D/FW, Texas Posts: 4,135	There's not really anything to prevent it from becoming ill once in the display tank, but if they are healthy, they are less likely to acquire things like ich. I didn't really quarantine, but it's not a bad idea to keep from introducing parasites, and just to monitor your fish to make sure it's healthy before putting it in the display with everything else.

03/03/2006, 10:34 PM	#4
sean48183 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: michigan Posts: 1,577	Ditto Jeffbrig. Also when you move your fish from qt to main tank reacclimate with standard procedures. And don't medicate unless necessary.

03/03/2006, 10:49 PM	#6
sean48183 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: michigan Posts: 1,577	Actually you are doing the qt for both those reasons. There is nothing per say that keeps them from taking it with them. If they get stressed out in your display it might surface. What fish are in the tank he is being added to?

03/03/2006, 11:23 PM	#9
sean48183 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: michigan Posts: 1,577	What is your treatment jeffbrig. If you are refering to a freshwater dip I agree. But I don't suggest adding copper to the tank without a visible sign of ich. If you keep the fish in the qt long enough and it is harboring the ich it will surface. No need to subject the fish to the harshness of copper IMO. Bodibuilt I don't think you will have a problem with your tang stressing in your display. Those are all relatively docile fish that shouldn't really bother the tang too much. 75% of the time it's fish harrassment that stresses the fish out the most. A couple other tips on qting. Keep an eye on your ammonia. QT's tend to build up ammonia pretty quickly. Have some water change water ready to go. Also give your tang seaweed everyday while in qt. This is a big staple of their diet and will help to strengthen your tang up. I use seaweed selects the 24 hour type. Stay away from the 6 hour it tends to disentigrate rather quickly.

03/04/2006, 12:32 AM	#11
steve the plumb Moved On Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 3,664	cleaner shrimps are good to have.I don't know if a uv unit kills ich.I never had ich in this tank ever.I have 3 yellow tangs 1 purple 1 kole 1 clown.I have other tangs and fish that have died but never from ich.

03/04/2006, 10:48 AM	#12
BodiBuilt Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,326	Thanks to everyone for all the great advise! __________________ Tell Them Dave Was Here Current Tank Info: 280g In Progress

03/04/2006, 11:09 AM	#13
The Reefer91 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,250	i believe UV units do kill ick, but they kill bactieria( good and bad) and other micro-organisms you might want. if you fish is severely suffering from ick, running a UV might help, but do not count on it being the miracle cure. HTH __________________ Dan "Every day we fade little by little, 'till there's nothing left of us but the lies we've sown." Current Tank Info: 20g L display: 2x65watt Coralife light, Octopus 150 needle wheel protein skimmer, 1 Koralia 2 and 2 powersweeps, and a DIY sump/fuge.....120G in the works!!!