Drilling a bulkhead hole in my acrylic sump help

Biscutz · 03/28/2006, 05:44 PM

I need to drill 2 separate 2 and 3/8" holes in my 60g acrylic sump for my 1.5" bulkheads. I have the round hole saw but I'm reluctant to drill because I've never done it before in acrylic. The hole saw bit I have is meant for wood/metal, I couldn't find anything in the size that I need that was any different. Any tips/advice for me before I take the plunge? The acrylic sup is 3/8" think, the reason for two bulkheads is for my 2 dart pumps.

Thanks.

tangwang · 03/28/2006, 06:01 PM

Don't force the holesaw, just let it do the work. If it is a hole saw for cutting metal, it should work just fine.

Matt

Theron · 03/28/2006, 06:04 PM

That is what I used to drill my acrylic sump, wood hole saw. I just cut like I was cutting plywood. Just kept it going at high speed. Don't stop the drill until it is all the way through. The arylic gets warm and starts to melt a bit and the bit could get stuck.

Theron

Biscutz · 03/28/2006, 06:17 PM

OK so keep it going on high speed, don't stop. Cross your fingers for me!

justin1977justi · 03/29/2006, 09:07 AM

I was told that you should start the hole on one side and then finish it from the other side. This helps to eliminate any chipping or cracking. It has always worked well for me.

jeffbrig · 03/29/2006, 09:21 AM

Biscutz, I wouldn't run high speed with the drill. In addition to slinging melted acrylic, you run a serious risk of cracking the pane if the saw grabs/binds.

Use a cordless drill, with the clutch set on a light setting in case it grabs. Do NOT use a powerful corded drill. I tried once when my the batteries on my cordless were charging. The saw bit into the acylic, the drill torqued sideways, mashing the trigger further. The acrylic wasn't harmed, but it scared the crap out of me.

Use a low/medium speed, very light pressure, and switch sides halfway.

HippieSmell · 03/29/2006, 10:57 AM

If you use a cordless drill, make sure the battery is fully charged. Or else you might end up like I did, with a hole saw stuck in melted acrylic because I went too fast and didn't have enough power left to pull the bit out when it started to bog down, lol. Everything turned out fine though, acrylic is pretty forgiving.

Biscutz · 03/29/2006, 04:59 PM

Wow great info guys! I will be drilling the sump this weekend, still waiting for my bulkheads from marine depot

. I do have a nice cordless drill, and I will make sure to move the clutch down to about half way before I start drilling. I was told by someone else to drill halfway through then switch to the other side, so I will try that. Thanks again for the help!

hyperfocal · 03/29/2006, 05:39 PM

Stop by Home Depot and pick up a $10 piece of plexiglass the same thickness as the tank. Practice on that a few times before playing "for keeps"

03/28/2006, 05:44 PM	#1
Biscutz Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Port Richey, FL Posts: 586	Drilling a bulkhead hole in my acrylic sump help I need to drill 2 separate 2 and 3/8" holes in my 60g acrylic sump for my 1.5" bulkheads. I have the round hole saw but I'm reluctant to drill because I've never done it before in acrylic. The hole saw bit I have is meant for wood/metal, I couldn't find anything in the size that I need that was any different. Any tips/advice for me before I take the plunge? The acrylic sup is 3/8" think, the reason for two bulkheads is for my 2 dart pumps. Thanks. __________________ Ian Current Tank Info: 180g all glass tank w/65g sump 600w 10K MH 280w VHO actinic EC-240 Skimmer Tunze wave box

03/28/2006, 06:01 PM	#2
tangwang Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,480	Don't force the holesaw, just let it do the work. If it is a hole saw for cutting metal, it should work just fine. Matt __________________ You can knock at any door, but wherever you go you know they've been there before........ Current Tank Info: No current tanks..

03/28/2006, 06:17 PM	#4
Biscutz Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Port Richey, FL Posts: 586	OK so keep it going on high speed, don't stop. Cross your fingers for me! __________________ Ian Current Tank Info: 180g all glass tank w/65g sump 600w 10K MH 280w VHO actinic EC-240 Skimmer Tunze wave box

03/29/2006, 09:21 AM	#6
jeffbrig Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL Posts: 5,548	Biscutz, I wouldn't run high speed with the drill. In addition to slinging melted acrylic, you run a serious risk of cracking the pane if the saw grabs/binds. Use a cordless drill, with the clutch set on a light setting in case it grabs. Do NOT use a powerful corded drill. I tried once when my the batteries on my cordless were charging. The saw bit into the acylic, the drill torqued sideways, mashing the trigger further. The acrylic wasn't harmed, but it scared the crap out of me. Use a low/medium speed, very light pressure, and switch sides halfway. __________________ Beware the power of stupid people in large groups..... Current Tank Info: formerly 250g room divider

03/29/2006, 10:57 AM	#7
HippieSmell Occupy Reef Central Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Orbiting Posts: 4,141	If you use a cordless drill, make sure the battery is fully charged. Or else you might end up like I did, with a hole saw stuck in melted acrylic because I went too fast and didn't have enough power left to pull the bit out when it started to bog down, lol. Everything turned out fine though, acrylic is pretty forgiving. __________________ Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like bananas. Current Tank Info: 78"x36"x27" acrylic, 6 Orphek Atlantik V3+ Compacts, MRC Orca Pro II w/washdown, CalcFeeder Pro AC3, Emperor Aquatics 80w UV, 80/20 aluminum stand, Vortech MP60's, Theiling Rollermat, GHL Profilux 3.1T EX, Kessil H380

03/28/2006, 06:04 PM	#3
Theron Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 110	That is what I used to drill my acrylic sump, wood hole saw. I just cut like I was cutting plywood. Just kept it going at high speed. Don't stop the drill until it is all the way through. The arylic gets warm and starts to melt a bit and the bit could get stuck. Theron

03/29/2006, 09:07 AM	#5
justin1977justi Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: GA Posts: 119	I was told that you should start the hole on one side and then finish it from the other side. This helps to eliminate any chipping or cracking. It has always worked well for me.

03/29/2006, 04:59 PM	#8
Biscutz Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Port Richey, FL Posts: 586	Wow great info guys! I will be drilling the sump this weekend, still waiting for my bulkheads from marine depot . I do have a nice cordless drill, and I will make sure to move the clutch down to about half way before I start drilling. I was told by someone else to drill halfway through then switch to the other side, so I will try that. Thanks again for the help! __________________ Ian Current Tank Info: 180g all glass tank w/65g sump 600w 10K MH 280w VHO actinic EC-240 Skimmer Tunze wave box

03/29/2006, 05:39 PM	#9
hyperfocal Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Edge of oblivion Posts: 1,708	Stop by Home Depot and pick up a $10 piece of plexiglass the same thickness as the tank. Practice on that a few times before playing "for keeps" __________________ "Froth at the top, dregs at bottom, but the middle excellent." -- Voltaire Current Tank Info: getting back into the hobby