|
05/16/2006, 11:21 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Choctaw, Oklahoma
Posts: 174
|
Looking for Opinions on fish in 90g
I'm about to move to OKC and will be once again setting up my 90 gal. I'm going for a fish and mostly soft coral look, and am looking for any opinions/thoughts on the fish I'm thinking of getting. They are:
White Cheek Tang Flame Angel 4x Clown Gobie 2x Neon Gobie Dragon Gobie 2x Yellow Tail Damsels to start the tank off And a few cleaner and peppermint shrimp. I'm debating going with a few Royal Gammas, does anyone have any experience with having a crowd of these in the tank? Thanks much. Dave |
05/16/2006, 12:35 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seacoast NH
Posts: 151
|
I would stay away from adding more than 1 clown gobie unless you have lots of corals in there for them to perch on. They are very territorial unless you find a mated pair.
I'm going to jump on the don't use fish to cycle your tank theme!!! Use LS and LR and wait it out. It will cycle itself and no undue stress will be caused to the fish. To finish off the damsel topic I would not add 2 after your tank cycles. Damsels can also be quite territorial. A lot of saltwater fish do not like fish of their own kind nor fish of the same shape or color. I'd advise you to do more in depth reading of your fish choices.
__________________
120G Reef, 30G refuge, 2 X 250 MH HQI, 4 X T5, LED Moons. Current Tank Info: 120g reef, clams,sps,lps, softies. fuge plumbed into basement. |
05/16/2006, 12:40 PM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Perry, OK
Posts: 13,946
|
I would advise against the Damsels, especially for cycling. Though Yellowtail Damsels are model citizens in comparrison with other species, they will still become recklessly territorial. The White Cheek Tang will also grow too large for your 90g tank. Clown Gobies are quite territorial and will eventually kill each other until there is only one, maybe two, left. I would wait a good six months to make sure that your tank is well established before adding any mandarinfish/dragon goby/dragonet. The two neon gobies should be fine though.
__________________
Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
05/16/2006, 01:38 PM | #4 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Pa
Posts: 921
|
Look at:
Flame Angel Coral Beauty Angel Any other pigmy(dwarf) angels Yellow or Purple Tang Fire Fish Lawnmower Blenny Royal Gramma Various Wrasses (six or 8 line) hawkfish These can offer some nice varity to a tank.
__________________
Life shouldn't be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!' Current Tank Info: 90 AGA, 30 gal sump, 6 x 54w T5, ER cs8-1 |
05/16/2006, 02:03 PM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Perry, OK
Posts: 13,946
|
I disagree with the Purple Tang, but a Yellow Tang would be fine. I would actually recommend a Kole Tang though
__________________
Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
05/16/2006, 02:35 PM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Choctaw, Oklahoma
Posts: 174
|
Thanks for the responses, had a few more questions though.
On cycling, although I've only set up a new tank once before, I let all the ammonia, nitrates, etc hit 0, then added a pair of damsels. LFS called that cycling even though everything had already hit zero, as the increased bio load was another shock to the system. Is this still the "approved" method of starting a tank, or am I missing a new step in here? On the damsels, I agree that they can be territorial, but I'd hope a 90 gal would be enough room for two? With the clown gobies, I plan to have lots of corals for perching. I had a 30 gal that had two clown gobies, and seen LFS tanks with 10+. Is this because they were not in the tank long enough to become territorial? I like the wrasses, but a 6 or 8 line will eventually get large enough to kill off my shrimp will they not? I'm trying to go for the 'peaceful' tank this time, which puts the flame hawk out of line as well (although he is pretty cool). Thanks for the help. Dave |
05/16/2006, 02:38 PM | #7 | |
Premium Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Pa
Posts: 921
|
Quote:
Yea, Koles are nice too.
__________________
Life shouldn't be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!' Current Tank Info: 90 AGA, 30 gal sump, 6 x 54w T5, ER cs8-1 |
|
05/16/2006, 02:41 PM | #8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Perry, OK
Posts: 13,946
|
Quote:
__________________
Travis Stevens Current Tank Info: Restarting 28g Bowfront |
|
05/16/2006, 02:53 PM | #9 | |
Premium Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Pa
Posts: 921
|
Quote:
Below is directly cut and pasted from marine depot live. Yellow Tang (Hawaii) - Zebrasoma flavescens Also known as: Yellow, Hawaii, Yellow Sailfin Tang Maximum Size: the Zebrasoma flavescens grows up to 12 inches. General Size Specifications: The small size will come to you generally 1 to 2 inches; the medium generally 3 to 4 inches; the large generally 5 to 6 inches. Minimum Tank Size: The Yellow Tang (Hawaii) prefers a tank of at least 100 gallons with plenty of places to hide & swim. Diet: The Zebrasoma flavescens is a herbivore and likes to eat Dried Seaweed (best), marine algae, mysid shrimp, Spirulina, Romaine Lettuce (blanched) , fresh seaweed, and other meaty treats. Level of Care: The Yellow Tang (Hawaii) is a medium maintenance fish. Behavior: The Yellow Tang (Hawaii) may act peacefully toward other fish. Hardiness: This is a hardy fish. Water Conditions: Keep water quality high (SG 1.020 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78° F). Range: Hawaii. General Notes: The Zebrasoma flavescens, one of the most popular and staple of marine aquarium additions. Even non-saltwater enthusiasts know about the yellow tang. Must be fed a good herbivore diet or will be prone to color loss and Head and lateral line disease. The Yellow Tang is one of the hardier of the tangs and makes up the bulk of pet-fish collected out of Hawaii. Wtih their conspicuous golden yellow color, active nature, persisten grazing of algae and hardiness, Yellow Tangs make long-term and pleasing additions to the reef aquarium. Purple Tang - Zebrasoma xanthurus Also known as: Yellowtail, Purple Sailfin Tang Maximum Size: the Zebrasoma xanthurus grows up to 10 inches. General Size Specifications: The small size will come to you generally 1 to 2 inches; the medium generally 3 to 4 inches; the large generally 5 to 6 inches. Minimum Tank Size: The Purple Tang prefers a tank of at least 100 gallons with plenty of places to hide & swim. Diet: The Zebrasoma xanthurus is a herbivore and likes to eat Dried Seaweed (best), marine algae, mysid shrimp, Spirulina, Romaine Lettuce (blanched) , fresh seaweed, and other meaty treats. Level of Care: The Purple Tang is a medium maintenance fish. Behavior: The Purple Tang may act peacefully toward other fish. Hardiness: This is a hardy fish. Water Conditions: Keep water quality high (SG 1.020 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78° F). Range: the Red Sea. General Notes: Once rare and almost impossible to import, the Zebrasoma xanthurum or Purple Red Sea Tang is a frequently sought member for the aquarium. The most aggressive an belligerent member of the Zebrasomas, the Purple Tang will likely pick a fight with any member of the Surgeonfish/Tang family as well as any fish that looks similar to a tang. Should be the last fish and best kept as the only tang introduced to the tank unless housed in a very large aquarium with other aggressive and large tangs. Must be fed vitamin suppliments and proper herbivorous diet to retain vivid color and prevent head and lateral line erosion (HLLE)
__________________
Life shouldn't be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely, but rather to skid in sideways, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!' Current Tank Info: 90 AGA, 30 gal sump, 6 x 54w T5, ER cs8-1 |
|
05/16/2006, 03:28 PM | #10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wentzville, MO
Posts: 626
|
The thing with the damsels is that if they are put into the tank first, they pretty much claim the entire thing as *their* territory. If you keep them instead of returning them to the lfs after the tank cycles, at the very least, you will need to rearrange your rock when you add more fish to throw them off. The bigger they get, the worse the agression problem will get.
A better choice, as mentioned above, is to cycle the tank with live rock. Your lfs should be more than happy to give you about a cup of sand from one of their tanks. If you seed your tank with that, that will start the cycle also.
__________________
I'm consistently torn between wanting to know more about your life and just waiting to see it on "Cops." Current Tank Info: 90 gallons o' salty goodness |
05/16/2006, 03:50 PM | #11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Choctaw, Oklahoma
Posts: 174
|
*nod* I'll definately start the tank with around 100 lb of LR and about 4 inches of sand, if I can swing it about half of it live sand. My understanding, the first fish in the tank, even after the LR and LS cycle and everything goes to 0, still causes quite a shock to the tank bio load. The LFS's recommended starting off with damsels or cromis (sp?) as tough/cheap fish who will surive that first shock and increase the bio load in the tank, after which you can add more 'fragile' fish.
I do understand the damsel agression thing though, thanks for that. I'll have to debate if it's worth rearranging the rocks. |
|
|