Help Carpet algae problem

deep6er · 05/25/2006, 12:43 AM

My brother has a 150g FOWLR tank. He has a few fish in it im not sure what but not many. He's got a few snails and hermits .He has a big problem with Carpet algea. Its dark green/purple. He keeps trying to remove it but it always grows back. I have had this problem in fresh water and just used E.M tabs or T.C tabs and it goes away.
What is the best way to get rid of this problem?

Thanks
Dave

ACBlinky · 05/25/2006, 01:19 AM

Run a search on cyanobacteria, sounds like you've dealt with it before and know what you've got. EM works in SW too, but it's a bit of a bandaid solution - it's best to try and battle it by reducing nutrients first IMHO. If you reduce phosphates to zero (or as close to it as possible), manually remove whatever you can, increase the flow rate and feed less, it often goes away after a few weeks/months.
I've had minor outbreaks in the past with tanks that were still fairly new and the above method of dealing with it worked. Recently, however, I had a persistant, very minor outbreak. No matter what I did, it kept coming back in just a few places despite good maintenance and 0 PO4/NO3. I decided to try EM tablets and they finished it off nicely; the patches disappeared within a day, and haven't come back since

Ovaltine · 05/25/2006, 04:39 AM

Tell your brother to try Seachem's Purigen that comes in little bags. Tell him to drop 2 in the sump, preferably under the eggcrate that's holding up the bioballs(if he has some) or just in the sump period where water will have to flow through it, not in a stagnant spot. This stuff is truly amazing. It took care of a brown diatom, and also red slime that I had within a week. It's a synthetic absorber and it is absolutely the best stuff to come out in years. Two little bags last six months, and can then be reenergized easily after that. Try DrsFosterandSmith.com or ThatPetPlace.com for good prices on it. Or just go to a well stocked LFS. Good luck, and trust me, it will work without a doubt.

Ovaltine · 05/25/2006, 04:41 AM

Oh, and it drops nitrates to 0 and keeps them there, though regular maintenance and water change should always be done of course.

deep6er · 05/25/2006, 04:31 PM

Great !!! im going to get him to try both of those. I hope we can find Seachem's Purigen up here.

Thanks.

whalloper · 05/25/2006, 06:58 PM

Korallin makes a product called PO4 Minus which lowers your phosphate to zero. When I used it after an algae bloom (even though my phosphates tested 0...I knew there must have been some) all algae cleared in a little under a week. Cyano, diatoms, hair...I had it all!! If there is some remaining hair algae, scrape it off and it wont come back with small maintenence doses once or twice a week.

CAUTION: tangs seem to be sensitive to this stuff, if you have tangs, you should use the low end dose and DRIP IT. I have a yellow tang and almost lost him because that warning is not listed on the bottle. Now I still use it by drip and hes perfectly fine.

It really is great though besides the tang issue - I screamed at Korallin for not putting that on the label

whalloper · 05/25/2006, 07:00 PM

if youre having trouble finding PO4 Minus, PremiumAquatics.com sells it and they ship QUICK!!

05/25/2006, 12:43 AM	#1
deep6er Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: B.C Posts: 691	Help Carpet algae problem My brother has a 150g FOWLR tank. He has a few fish in it im not sure what but not many. He's got a few snails and hermits .He has a big problem with Carpet algea. Its dark green/purple. He keeps trying to remove it but it always grows back. I have had this problem in fresh water and just used E.M tabs or T.C tabs and it goes away. What is the best way to get rid of this problem? Thanks Dave

05/25/2006, 01:19 AM	#2
ACBlinky Premium Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Peterborough, ON, Canada Posts: 4,954 Blog Entries: 20	Run a search on cyanobacteria, sounds like you've dealt with it before and know what you've got. EM works in SW too, but it's a bit of a bandaid solution - it's best to try and battle it by reducing nutrients first IMHO. If you reduce phosphates to zero (or as close to it as possible), manually remove whatever you can, increase the flow rate and feed less, it often goes away after a few weeks/months. I've had minor outbreaks in the past with tanks that were still fairly new and the above method of dealing with it worked. Recently, however, I had a persistant, very minor outbreak. No matter what I did, it kept coming back in just a few places despite good maintenance and 0 PO4/NO3. I decided to try EM tablets and they finished it off nicely; the patches disappeared within a day, and haven't come back since __________________ "The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears, or the sea." - Isak Dinesen Current Tank Info: 150g mixed reef, 30g sump/refugium, LED lighting, 100lbs LR, coral beauty, flame angel, blue & yellow tangs, gobies, damsels, 6-line wrasse, lawnmower blenny, dottyback, clown pair, rabbitfish, shrimp, crabs, CUC.

05/25/2006, 06:58 PM	#6
whalloper Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 317	Korallin makes a product called PO4 Minus which lowers your phosphate to zero. When I used it after an algae bloom (even though my phosphates tested 0...I knew there must have been some) all algae cleared in a little under a week. Cyano, diatoms, hair...I had it all!! If there is some remaining hair algae, scrape it off and it wont come back with small maintenence doses once or twice a week. CAUTION: tangs seem to be sensitive to this stuff, if you have tangs, you should use the low end dose and DRIP IT. I have a yellow tang and almost lost him because that warning is not listed on the bottle. Now I still use it by drip and hes perfectly fine. It really is great though besides the tang issue - I screamed at Korallin for not putting that on the label __________________ Please let me know when they invent the device which makes water changes unnecessary and foolish... I cant wait Current Tank Info: 72 gal mixed reef (SPS acros montis stylo miles, LPS, zoos, shrooms, clams, xenia, chili) 26 gal zoo/softies/LPS reef

05/25/2006, 07:00 PM	#7
whalloper Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 317	if youre having trouble finding PO4 Minus, PremiumAquatics.com sells it and they ship QUICK!! __________________ Please let me know when they invent the device which makes water changes unnecessary and foolish... I cant wait Current Tank Info: 72 gal mixed reef (SPS acros montis stylo miles, LPS, zoos, shrooms, clams, xenia, chili) 26 gal zoo/softies/LPS reef

05/25/2006, 04:39 AM	#3
Ovaltine Moved On Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 22	Tell your brother to try Seachem's Purigen that comes in little bags. Tell him to drop 2 in the sump, preferably under the eggcrate that's holding up the bioballs(if he has some) or just in the sump period where water will have to flow through it, not in a stagnant spot. This stuff is truly amazing. It took care of a brown diatom, and also red slime that I had within a week. It's a synthetic absorber and it is absolutely the best stuff to come out in years. Two little bags last six months, and can then be reenergized easily after that. Try DrsFosterandSmith.com or ThatPetPlace.com for good prices on it. Or just go to a well stocked LFS. Good luck, and trust me, it will work without a doubt.

05/25/2006, 04:41 AM	#4
Ovaltine Moved On Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 22	Oh, and it drops nitrates to 0 and keeps them there, though regular maintenance and water change should always be done of course.

05/25/2006, 04:31 PM	#5
deep6er Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: B.C Posts: 691	Great !!! im going to get him to try both of those. I hope we can find Seachem's Purigen up here. Thanks.