Getting rid of that algea v1.0

synthesis · 09/16/2006, 12:21 PM

Ok so I thought I would keep a diary on here of my battle with algea. I have had this tank running for over a year. I have posted a thread early this week on how to battle algea.

Basically I want to keep everyone up to date on the progress I am making/not making so that if I do succeed others who are experiencing the same thing can possibly reference what I did.

Here are the specs:
75Gal Tank
Coralife fixture 2x150 10K bulbs, 2x96W CF Actinic, 3x1W moonlights.
Coralife Super Skimmer 220
2 seio 1500,800
Fluval 304 with only activated carbon in it.
1 802 and 1 404 powerhead.
roughly 80-90 pounds LR.
.25 in sand bed.
Coralife RO unit.
20gal RO fresh water holding tank.

Water specs:
Nitrite: 0ppm(salifert)
Ammonia: 0ppm(salifert)
Nitrate: 0pm (salifert)
phosphates: 0ppm(salifert)
Calcium: 460ppm (Hagen)
ALK: 9 dkH
PH: 8.2
Salinity: 1.026
Temp: 79F

Water from RO:
Nitrates: 0ppm
Phosphates: 0ppm
Silicates: 0ppm

Basically with these parameters, I have macro, diatom, and hair algea growing.

So Im going to be doing the following:
Change out the Coralife bulbs to 14K over spam of 2 months.
Doing 10% water changes every 5 days.
Adding a 30gal Sump tank.
Switching to Instant Ocean Marine Salt.

I refuse to use phosban or any type of phosphate remover as the stuff is WAY overpriced. I want to be able to control the algea naturally.

I will post some pictures once I figure out how to get these 1mb files down to the required 50Kb.

Mike O'Brien · 09/16/2006, 12:30 PM

If you change so many thing's how will you know what actually helped you ?

Speaking from experience I'd put money that it's your 1/4 " sandbed that's giving you the problem's.

Kiel'thalin · 09/16/2006, 12:50 PM

Too many fish could also contribute to the algae problems. What are your fish stocking levels at? I also would consider the sandbed the problem. At .25", it is not doing anything beneficial to the tank.

gastone · 09/16/2006, 02:11 PM

IMO, doing a 10% water change every 5 days is no going to be cost effective over the long run, as opposed to using a phosphate reactor with some media.

I don't know how long it would take you to recoup your savings, just a thought.

Good luck with everything and keep us posted.

Garrett.

synthesis · 09/17/2006, 01:43 PM

Can anyone give their insight as to why a .25 inch sand bed would be the problem instead of just saying that that could be the problem. The reason i switched to a small sand bed was becuase I completly replace it every 6 months. I have been given mixed reviews on DSB in the past.

synthesis · 09/17/2006, 01:45 PM

Livestock are as follows:
1 Coral beauty
2 purc clowns
1 watchman goby
1 coris wrasse

Critters:
5 spiny snails
15 strawberry turbos
10 blue legged hermits
1 tuxedo urchin
2 fighting conchs
1 emerald crab

chrismunn · 09/17/2006, 02:11 PM

with phosphate tests reading 0 i cant imagine why you would need to use a reactor?
i also cant see why a 1\4" sandbed would be bad? ( well i have an idea. detritus accumulation in the sandbed normally happens at a greater depth than 1\4" so since its only able to settle that 1\4" down it may leech crap back into the system a little quiker.)
i imagine you probably feed alot with thoes fish right? do the fish actually eat most of the food or is there alot leftover in the tank? that leftover food in the tank decays and you know what happens after that. with your tank params reading so flawless ide put my money on leftover food settling in the rock owrk, and the bio-load created by the fish. i would also lean in the direction of believing there may have been a spectrum shift in your lighting. as the bulbs age they shift spectrum towards the yellow end which is great for growing algae. although if you change your bulbs on a regular basis, (10- 12 months) that shouldnt be of much concern...
keep us posted

synthesis · 09/17/2006, 04:34 PM

The spectrum change was one of the first things i thought of. They are over 12months old. And they are 10K bulbs, so it would mean the spectrum would be perfect for algea growth. I will be soon changing 1 of the halides to a 14K. And then in about a months time the other side to a 14K. That way not to quickly change the spectrum and cause massive spikes in nitrates.

I feed the fish twice a day. 3ml of brine each time. I also keep a clip of marine algea for the angel. The fish eat pretty much all of the food.

09/16/2006, 12:21 PM	#1
synthesis Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Vancouver Posts: 196	Getting rid of that algea v1.0 Ok so I thought I would keep a diary on here of my battle with algea. I have had this tank running for over a year. I have posted a thread early this week on how to battle algea. Basically I want to keep everyone up to date on the progress I am making/not making so that if I do succeed others who are experiencing the same thing can possibly reference what I did. Here are the specs: 75Gal Tank Coralife fixture 2x150 10K bulbs, 2x96W CF Actinic, 3x1W moonlights. Coralife Super Skimmer 220 2 seio 1500,800 Fluval 304 with only activated carbon in it. 1 802 and 1 404 powerhead. roughly 80-90 pounds LR. .25 in sand bed. Coralife RO unit. 20gal RO fresh water holding tank. Water specs: Nitrite: 0ppm(salifert) Ammonia: 0ppm(salifert) Nitrate: 0pm (salifert) phosphates: 0ppm(salifert) Calcium: 460ppm (Hagen) ALK: 9 dkH PH: 8.2 Salinity: 1.026 Temp: 79F Water from RO: Nitrates: 0ppm Phosphates: 0ppm Silicates: 0ppm Basically with these parameters, I have macro, diatom, and hair algea growing. So Im going to be doing the following: Change out the Coralife bulbs to 14K over spam of 2 months. Doing 10% water changes every 5 days. Adding a 30gal Sump tank. Switching to Instant Ocean Marine Salt. I refuse to use phosban or any type of phosphate remover as the stuff is WAY overpriced. I want to be able to control the algea naturally. I will post some pictures once I figure out how to get these 1mb files down to the required 50Kb.

09/16/2006, 02:11 PM	#4
gastone Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 448	IMO, doing a 10% water change every 5 days is no going to be cost effective over the long run, as opposed to using a phosphate reactor with some media. I don't know how long it would take you to recoup your savings, just a thought. Good luck with everything and keep us posted. Garrett. __________________ I'm your huckleberry. Current Tank Info: 42Hex, 250W Radium in a lumenarc mini + 2x24W T5 Blue+ and 2x24W T5 actinic connected to a 30 gallon zoanthid tank currently lit by 4x39W T5 (Actinic, blue+, pro color, blue+)

09/17/2006, 02:11 PM	#7
chrismunn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 4,200	with phosphate tests reading 0 i cant imagine why you would need to use a reactor? i also cant see why a 1\4" sandbed would be bad? ( well i have an idea. detritus accumulation in the sandbed normally happens at a greater depth than 1\4" so since its only able to settle that 1\4" down it may leech crap back into the system a little quiker.) i imagine you probably feed alot with thoes fish right? do the fish actually eat most of the food or is there alot leftover in the tank? that leftover food in the tank decays and you know what happens after that. with your tank params reading so flawless ide put my money on leftover food settling in the rock owrk, and the bio-load created by the fish. i would also lean in the direction of believing there may have been a spectrum shift in your lighting. as the bulbs age they shift spectrum towards the yellow end which is great for growing algae. although if you change your bulbs on a regular basis, (10- 12 months) that shouldnt be of much concern... keep us posted __________________ Marine Aquarists Association of South Texas Austin Reef Club PBITAWA... Current Tank Info: 14g bio cube

09/16/2006, 12:30 PM	#2
Mike O'Brien Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,356	If you change so many thing's how will you know what actually helped you ? Speaking from experience I'd put money that it's your 1/4 " sandbed that's giving you the problem's.

09/16/2006, 12:50 PM	#3
Kiel'thalin Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Albany, Georgia Posts: 575	Too many fish could also contribute to the algae problems. What are your fish stocking levels at? I also would consider the sandbed the problem. At .25", it is not doing anything beneficial to the tank.

09/17/2006, 01:43 PM	#5
synthesis Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Vancouver Posts: 196	Can anyone give their insight as to why a .25 inch sand bed would be the problem instead of just saying that that could be the problem. The reason i switched to a small sand bed was becuase I completly replace it every 6 months. I have been given mixed reviews on DSB in the past.

09/17/2006, 01:45 PM	#6
synthesis Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Vancouver Posts: 196	Livestock are as follows: 1 Coral beauty 2 purc clowns 1 watchman goby 1 coris wrasse Critters: 5 spiny snails 15 strawberry turbos 10 blue legged hermits 1 tuxedo urchin 2 fighting conchs 1 emerald crab

09/17/2006, 04:34 PM	#8
synthesis Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Vancouver Posts: 196	The spectrum change was one of the first things i thought of. They are over 12months old. And they are 10K bulbs, so it would mean the spectrum would be perfect for algea growth. I will be soon changing 1 of the halides to a 14K. And then in about a months time the other side to a 14K. That way not to quickly change the spectrum and cause massive spikes in nitrates. I feed the fish twice a day. 3ml of brine each time. I also keep a clip of marine algea for the angel. The fish eat pretty much all of the food.