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10/25/2006, 08:32 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maine USA
Posts: 1
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Slow drip acclimation
Hello everyone!!..new to the forum. I have raised tropicals for approx 35 yrs, and have been very active in african chiclid raising for approx 20 yrs, yet to venture into the reef setting albiet quite curious. Well I have been stricken by the saltie bug and now am about to embark on this wonderful journey aside some very experienced peeps( hope this swells some skulls!! ) I have been reading many of your posts as of late and have noticed a particular phrase known as slow drip acclimation.
The tank that my wife and I are getting for a reef setting is a 180 US gal Oceanic and we have many ideas as to what we are looking for. I am curious as to what this phrase means and exactly how it works in regards to passive bag time for the fish or the invert prior to release into their new home. considering I have moved out of Belfast at the age of 16 and have settled in North America to start my career I do not have much in reference to UK sites or privvy. I am in a state that actually keeps very close eye on what you place in an aquarium in your home, and to be frank ( I know very American term) it sucks butt! could use some pointers if you do not mind...cheers in advance and look forward to active communication in the future.
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For sale!!..One complete set of encylopedia Britanica A-Z, recently got married and wife knows everything! Current Tank Info: 55 US gal mixed tropical, 10 fancy guppy breeding tank |
10/25/2006, 09:05 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 121
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This is a tidier alternative to trying to add water periodically to the bag for acclimation. The critters are placed in a container with the bag water. Water from their intended home is slowly dripped into the container using an airline hose with a knot or clamp to regulate the speed of the drip to slowly acclimate them to the new water conditions.
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10/25/2006, 09:26 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,683
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WELCOME
i usually do about an hour to an hour and 1/2 also don't add LFS water (net if you have to) i place a small glass in a plastic tub when the drip starts than when an hour has passed the glass is submerged and it is easy to coax the fish into it.. with a lid i drain most of the water than add fish to aquarium. glass won't hurt a slime coat or a fin as a net can. but in the long run the net is better than having LFS water than had added coppermine in your tank!!!
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10/25/2006, 09:30 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 602
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The slow drip method is for the more sensitive critter's.ie shrimp,star's,or anything that can't take a sudden change in water parameters.
By the way,WELCOME TO REEF CENTRAL!!
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Seagrass,Mother nature's way of organic carbon dosing. "Nitrification is controlled primarily by 02 and nitrogen as ammonium supply, while denitrification is controlled by nitrate and organic carbon supply" Seagrasses 2006 Life on earth depends on plants-without plants,no life.Alf Jacob Nilsen Current Tank Info: 125 DT,135 grass fuge/sump;75g seagrass/seahorse tank 70 fuge/sump |
10/25/2006, 09:30 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,603
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To go along with the post by schiejr, most of the LFS that I know of keep the salinity of there water at some where 1.018 to help fight infestation of parasites, The average home tank is kept at 1.024 to 1.026, so by slowly adapting your new fish to the salinity of your tank it has a better chance.
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10/25/2006, 09:47 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,683
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oh it also helps avoid ph shock
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Cls Current Tank Info: 180 inwall, 75 sump, 20lfrag, 3x lumen max elite w/250w radium 20k, recirc modded asm g-3, aqua controller apex,2x rw-20, 350lbs LR |
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