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Unread 12/08/2006, 07:05 AM   #1
dannable
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Sump Flow Question

If I were to setup a sump and have an hob overflow and a mag pump how would you balance the water going out to match the water being pumped back in? Is there a flow control on the pump or will I need a flow control valve of some kind?? Sorry, I am really new at this and just planning ahead.


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Unread 12/08/2006, 07:18 AM   #2
kau_cinta_ku
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just add a ball valve to the pump if it is to strong then you can control the power


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Unread 12/08/2006, 07:34 AM   #3
dannable
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Thanks. Could someone explain or post a pic to show me how to do this. Is it possible i might not need a valve?

I am thinking of a Mag Drive 350 & a CPR CS90 Overflow on a 60-75 gallon.


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"Gentlemen; I put my pants on just like anyone else--one leg at a time. Except that once my pants are on, I make wicked aquariums."

Current Tank Info: 75 Gallon FOWLR, 75Lbs of Live Rock, 1 OC clown, 2 pajama cardinals, 1 firefish, 1 cleaner shrimp
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Unread 12/08/2006, 07:37 AM   #4
Blue Deuce
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If you can install a gate valve better yet. Gate valves provide finer tuning IMO. But I use both with success.


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Unread 12/08/2006, 07:41 AM   #5
Shooter7
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To basically answer your original question, I get return pumps that are not rated for more than my drain capability is. For example, my 120g has two drains rated at 600 gph each, or 1200 gph total. I run a Mag 12 as that is rated at 1200 gph and with the head pressure on it, it would be a little less, thus I don't overwhelm my drains. I could also run a smaller pump as well, but I would not run one that is higher rated because I simply don't want to take the risk of overwhelming my drains. I also run a ball valve on my return plumbing if I should want to tune back my return pump.


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Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return
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Unread 12/08/2006, 07:51 AM   #6
dannable
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Thanks for all of your help. I am going to set this all up in the basement (where there is a drain) and play around with it to get a feel for how it all works.


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"Gentlemen; I put my pants on just like anyone else--one leg at a time. Except that once my pants are on, I make wicked aquariums."

Current Tank Info: 75 Gallon FOWLR, 75Lbs of Live Rock, 1 OC clown, 2 pajama cardinals, 1 firefish, 1 cleaner shrimp
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Unread 12/08/2006, 08:46 AM   #7
cesau
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To completely disagree with what's been posted here... =)

Figure out what you want the flow rate of your tank to be and buy a pump that will perform at that level (keep in mind the height of the head) - (some people recommend turning your water over 6 times an hour, some recommend 20 times per hour, depends on what you're doing; a 100 gallon tank would need a flow rate of 600 gallons per hour to do 6x and 2000gph to do 20x) - your overflow should drain at at a rate more than your return.

Won't doing that overflow the sump? No - basically the water in the tank drops and becomes even with the water thats being pumped into the tank by the sump. The water level in the tank will increase/decrease the flow into the overflow as it needs to.

What will happen if the Sump pumps water faster than the overflow can drain? Aside from the sump running dry and potentially burning out - you will probably overflow the main tank or the overflow.

It's generally recommended not to restrict the flow of water between the return sump and the tank (it just puts strain on the motor).


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Unread 12/08/2006, 09:17 AM   #8
staticx
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Ok to disagree with some stuff here. No dont add a ball valve or any kind of valve get your pump that is not rated higher then your flow comming in and just adjust the pump. Easy as pie


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Unread 12/08/2006, 09:21 AM   #9
Shooter7
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The ball valve doesn't hurt anything and can be used for other reasons. If for some reason you want to temporarily decrease flow in the tank, you can turn the ball valve to reduce it for a bit without hurting anything. If you want to do some work in your sump and don't want any backflow from your tank after turning off the return pump, then you can immediately close the ball valve after shutting down the pump and no water backflows in. (and yeah, I have anti-siphon holes drilled on my return lines in the tank, but you still get some back-siphon irregardless unless you close that valve) I know tons of people who use them in this manner, so there's absolutely nothing wrong with it.


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Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return
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Unread 12/08/2006, 09:24 AM   #10
cesau
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shooter7
The ball valve doesn't hurt anything and can be used for other reasons. If for some reason you want to temporarily decrease flow in the tank, you can turn the ball valve to reduce it for a bit without hurting anything. If you want to do some work in your sump and don't want any backflow from your tank after turning off the return pump, then you can immediately close the ball valve after shutting down the pump and no water backflows in. (and yeah, I have anti-siphon holes drilled on my return lines in the tank, but you still get some back-siphon irregardless unless you close that valve) I know tons of people who use them in this manner, so there's absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Theres absolutely nothing wrong with it until you're trying to use it to balance your flow rate. I agree that if you use a ball valve for the purposes you stated here it's a fine idea.


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Unread 12/08/2006, 09:32 AM   #11
Shooter7
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If you get a properly rated pump, there's no reason to use it to balance flow rate.


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Current Tank Info: 10 years salty - standard 29g reef - moved from 120 gal reef, 2x250w Reeflux 10k's on ARO electronics and VHO super actinics on Icecap ballast, 2xTunze 6060, MSX 200 skimmer, GEO 612 Ca reactor, mag 12 return
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