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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 343
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Photoperiod on refugium?
I set up my new tank about 2 months ago. I had been alternating my photoperiod with my main tank. Main lights on, fuge light off. Main lights off, fuge light on. I currently have caulerpa in my fuge and had a problem with some die off. My friend said it was actually better to keep the fuge light on 24/7. I've heard its better to alternate the two to keep Ph spikes down. Input please.
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#2 |
Premium Nonpaying Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Lost
Posts: 14,377
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i ran it 24/7 helps to keep you PH stable... doesnt hurt either..
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Gabriel Current Tank Info: 300 Gal Envision Tank(98Lx30Wx26T) 120 Gal SoCalCreations Sump, Deltec TC2560, 2 LumenarcsMini 1 Reg on a light mover W Radiums 250& 400, Gallaxy ballasts, Red Dragon 10m3 return W/ 2 WavySeas, 2 6155 Tunze streams |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: redding
Posts: 322
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the fuge on my 125 has grape calurpa in it . that light i run 24/7 it seems to do best that way. the fuge on my 58 i have chaeto and that light was run opposite of the tank lights. when i would run the lights 24/7 it would get mushy and die.
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reef tanks are such a headache yet i keep coming back to them. Current Tank Info: 40 gal sps tank (36"Lx15"Dx18"H), dual 175 mh lights w 15k iwasaki bulbs, 20gal sump, bubble magus nac6 skimmer, blue line hd external return pump feeding the tank through two 1/2" penductors, two koralia 1 powerheads + more on the wish list. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 343
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I have the mexican caulerpa, I think its called, but its been getting mushy and dying. My friend seems to think its been because of me alternating the photoperiod.
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#5 |
Premium Member
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I ran mine 24/7 for a while, now I have the fuge lights running opposite the MH because it helps to keep the temperature more stable (now the PCs inside the cabinet are off when the MH are on above, rather than adding their heat to the MH and raising the temperature). I'm also keeping a few zoa frags in the 'fuge right now and I doubt they'd do well without a period of darkness. The current schedule is:
11am - T5 actinics come on 1:30pm - MH come on, PC fuge light turns off 8:30pm - MH turn off, PC fuge light turns on 11pm - T5 actinics turn off So out of every 24h the fuge is lit for 17h. Chaeto seems to do well either 24/7 or opposite the main lights and won't go sexual (turn white, melt and release gametes into the water which can cause an ammonia spike) -- if you can get chaeto instead of caulerpa it might work better for you.
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"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears, or the sea." - Isak Dinesen Current Tank Info: 150g mixed reef, 30g sump/refugium, LED lighting, 100lbs LR, coral beauty, flame angel, blue & yellow tangs, gobies, damsels, 6-line wrasse, lawnmower blenny, dottyback, clown pair, rabbitfish, shrimp, crabs, CUC. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 343
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I heard chaeto was kinda messy. Gets all over your sump.
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#7 |
Gives Bad Advice.
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,168
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Pro's for on all the time: while the macro is getting "sunlight" it creates more oxygen in the water. While it's off it sucks some out.
If having it on all the time won't cause problems for the macro... aside from shortening bulb life i don't see many cons. |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,837
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I thought photosynthesis required a dark phase as well...
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Something about the way an acro grows... Current Tank Info: 270g Inwall |
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#9 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: SoCal/Left Side- USA
Posts: 4,572
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Quote:
Keeping lights on 24/7 is supposed to prevent that.
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I said fraggit! Current Tank Info: M-728 Combat Engineer (based on M60 hull). M-3 Lee Medium (British version with squatter). |
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#10 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Monroe, LA
Posts: 343
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Quote:
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