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Unread 01/12/2007, 04:17 PM   #1
saltyguy
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What my LFS said

I just got back from my LFS. They said that if I have LR and LS that I wouldn't need a filter. That dosen't sound right. Whats up?


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Unread 01/12/2007, 04:20 PM   #2
miamishrip
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if you have enough LR and LS i would imagine you could just run a good protein skimmer and plenty of Power heads maybe a fuge?


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Unread 01/12/2007, 04:21 PM   #3
salty3
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Some people only use lr so yes that is right, however I personal like a filter to get the solid particals out of the water.


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Unread 01/12/2007, 04:22 PM   #4
danch
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That's odd - their advice matches what most of the more experienced people here say! They might be a keeper!


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Unread 01/12/2007, 04:24 PM   #5
JeffDubya
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Well... it's not as cut and dry as that, because the LR and LS are a NATURAL biological filter. It's not like you're not using one, it's just not made of plastic. But it's refreshing to see someone from an LFS that is encouraging his customers to build a reef tank the natural way...

But agreed. LR / LS / and a protien skimmer is all you really need for a good starter tank. You didn't mention how large of a setup you were thinking about...


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Unread 01/12/2007, 04:37 PM   #6
saltyguy
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Well what if I pump water from my 20 into a 10 with LR and LS would that work. That way I could put my equipment in the 10gal.


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Unread 01/12/2007, 05:12 PM   #7
TekCat
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This is common "sump" design, where you have display tank (in your case 20), and sump (in your case 10) hidden somewhere in stand, where you could put all your equipment, etc...

check www.melevsreef.com for better explanation and illustrations on how sump works, etc...

good luck


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Unread 01/12/2007, 05:18 PM   #8
papagimp
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Saltyguy, everyone else kinda answered ya, but let me clarify for ya a bit: When you use a store bought hang on the back type filter, with a "bio-pad" of sorts, these pads develop the beneficial bacteria that actually "cycle" the nirogenous compounds in our tank, the ammonia, nitrite, ect. ect. Aquarium keeping 101 stuff. This is exactly what Live rock and sand does. The rock is porous enough as is the sand to support sufficient amounts of bacteria to filter the tanks. In fact, it's far more efficient than a bio-pad since the surface area for the bacteria is in such abundance. You could technically do this with a freshwater setup, but most rock that would be safe to use, isn't porous enough, and the stuff that is, will leach the wrong stuff into your tank.

But all that said, live rock and live sand is a biological filter. you will still want some form of mechanical filtering, this can be a simple as a prefitler sponge on a powerhead, that you regularly rinse the sponge off. If you rinse this sponge while performing water changes, using the old tank water for the rinse, this will keep most the bacteria colonized on the sponge intact and will act as another form of bio filtering as well as mechanical filtering.


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Unread 01/12/2007, 05:19 PM   #9
saltyguy
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I have been to melevs. I thought that I would have to have baffles, refuge, and a return area. Is it really that simple to have just another tank like my 10gal?


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Unread 01/12/2007, 05:22 PM   #10
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Salty guy, the reason for baffles is primarily to help reduce microbubbles from the incoming water making their way back up the return on into the display. if you do a low enough return this usually isn't a problem. Baffles are also used to section off areas of the sump. My DIY fuge is a glass 10g tank, I stuff some baffles in with silicone just for kicks, but their probably not needed. it is that simple. Alot of this hobby is alot more simple than most people think. Just takes the time to learn this.


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Unread 01/12/2007, 05:26 PM   #11
saltyguy
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Well thanks. I guess I have been stressing to much about it. Thanks for the info!


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Unread 01/12/2007, 05:52 PM   #12
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yeah, there is noo need to have all the sections in one's sump. Like papagimp said it is just to reduce micro bubbles. Some don't have any baffles at all, but water has to travel at slower speed and greater distance between intake and return points so microbubbles dissapate on its own, and/or LR in sump (in the water path) breaks the bubbles up.


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