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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norridge.Il
Posts: 454
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Need help going from reef to F/O
Hi all I have a 125 that I am thinking of changing from reef to fish only to simplify things,but I have a few questions with it and was looking for advice or ideas before I do this.I know that all fish and corals will have to be removed first.
1.The tank has about 180-200 pounds of well established live rock.I would like to keep some of the larger pieces for aquascaping and filteration instead of going all fake coral.Can I do this?? What kind of tank cycle will happen by removing alot of the bio-load? 2.My sump is currently set up as a refugium.Will I have to switch back to the bio-ball tower that I had earlier? 3.If I decide to downgrade my lighting(2 250w metal halides) will the remaining live rock still function? 4. Should I clean or change out my sand bed once everything opens up or will this cause me more problems? 5.Salinity? |
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#2 |
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Location: Northern VA
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The only thing I would change is lighting. No need to change filtration/LR/sand/fuge. That is all good stuff reef or not.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norridge.Il
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what about bio-load
The decision to do this is to simplify which means less water changes and to create space by removing alot of the L/R.I would also like to eliminate the light over the fuge.( homemade setup)
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#4 |
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Can you move the LR from the display to the sump? Have a dark sump with just LR for filtration.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norridge.Il
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Use L/R in the sump instead of bioballs.Could be done and would this work just as good or better.And what about the cheato in my fuge now???
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#6 |
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You posted that you wanted to get rid of the light over the fuge. You cant grow macro without it.
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#7 |
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Location: Norridge.Il
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So the cheato must go and thats ok.Then a sump full of L/R would be sufficient?
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#8 |
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Location: Northern VA
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I think that would be a good plan. You can reuse the LR you have. Since you will have the same amount, the tank wont go inti any sort of shock. It is a good filter and doesn't need any light.
I'd get rid of the halides and get some NO T8 fluorescents in a decent color spectrum to cut down on power use and heat.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norridge.Il
Posts: 454
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thank you very much for the suggestions.
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