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Unread 04/21/2007, 12:31 PM   #26
my85flyby
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If you want less flow through sump then get a smaller pump no need for a valve


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Unread 04/21/2007, 07:20 PM   #27
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Thank you everyone!


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Unread 04/21/2007, 07:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by smcdonn
BTW, I run a mag 5 and have the exact same setup as you.
How does that mag 5 work for you? Would the 7 be better?


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Unread 04/21/2007, 07:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by chase33
I doubt you are returning 950 gph to your tank with the mag 9.5. That rate is at zero head. What is the height distance from your pump to where the water returns into the tank? If you provide that we can determine exactly what you need. The mag 9.5 is rated at 800 gph at 4' so if the distance is 4' then 800 gph is what will return. At 2' it is rated at 900 gph and 750 at 5'.
It sounds to me like your issue is the amount of water draining from the tank. To slow it down you need to put a valve on the drain though I wouldn't reccommend it. Once you figure out how much is draining then you must get a pump to match that amount. Contrary to some suggestions and in agreement with others I would discourage installation of a valve to decrease or slow the return flow. As mentioned it will heat your water and decrease the life span of the pump. You could install a tee valve and divert some of the water back into the sump using a ball valve to control amount of flow. If you do decrease the flow from the drain you should get a smaller pump.

The mag 7 is rated at 700 gph at zero head, 550 gph at 2', and about 475 gph at 4'.

BTW, I agree that valving the drain is ridiculous!
I believe what your asking is just over four feet from the bottom of the pump to the top of the overflow.


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Unread 04/21/2007, 07:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wrench
Valving the drain is helpful in quieting the flow. If you shut it just enough to quiet it down then the flow wont be restricted.

It sounds like you're trying to cure the symptoms and not the problem. A single drain shouldn't create too much turbulence in the sump. If it does, then you need to redesign the sump. Is it baffled? If not then that is the cause of your micro bubble issue. The only way your return pump can make bubbles is if it is sucking air. Baffles in the sump will stop this. Why are you saying that there is too much turbulence in the sump from the drain? Is water splahing out?
No, I'm trying to cure the problem, that's why I'm asking for help. The sump is divided into three sections. Skimmer zone, fuge, return. I have a bubble trap located before the return.

The problem that is happening is I have the drain pipe going down into the sump, then 90 degrees pointing away from the fuge section. The water is flowing into the back of the tank, and bubbling hard in the skimmer zone. It shakes the drain pipe sometimes. I believe bc there is way too much flow.

Water is not splashing out of the sump, but it does splash around more then it should. It just doesn't appear to be working the best it could. I wasn't sure if the drain pipe needed to be another angle to slow the water down, or if it was bc I was running too big of a pump.


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Unread 04/21/2007, 07:33 PM   #31
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Here are photos of the sump.








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Unread 04/21/2007, 08:13 PM   #32
andrewr
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where are the pics of you this time lol


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Unread 04/21/2007, 08:14 PM   #33
chase33
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I have two overflows and the drains are Flex pvc pipe. In mine the water drains out of the pipe very fast and the pipes sometimes shake. It will do it for a few minutes and then stop. I also have a lot of bubbles in that section due to the fast/strong flow. It is not a problem though because the bubbles do not make it through the baffles let alone the tank. Because I have Flex PVC it allows me to move the pipes around to maximize the flow and reduce the bubbles and vibration. I don't know what to do in your case but it sounds similar to mine. Are the bubbles making it back into your tank? Does the pipes shake ocntinuously? If so maybe flex pvc will work for you.
BTW, 4' from the pump to the to of tank where water returns into your tank. At that height the 950 is rated at 800 gph. I doubt this has anything to do with your draining issue.


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Unread 04/21/2007, 08:15 PM   #34
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haha in my thread :P


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Unread 04/21/2007, 08:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by chase33
I have two overflows and the drains are Flex pvc pipe. In mine the water drains out of the pipe very fast and the pipes sometimes shake. It will do it for a few minutes and then stop. I also have a lot of bubbles in that section due to the fast/strong flow. It is not a problem though because the bubbles do not make it through the baffles let alone the tank. Because I have Flex PVC it allows me to move the pipes around to maximize the flow and reduce the bubbles and vibration. I don't know what to do in your case but it sounds similar to mine. Are the bubbles making it back into your tank? Does the pipes shake ocntinuously? If so maybe flex pvc will work for you.
BTW, 4' from the pump to the to of tank where water returns into your tank. At that height the 950 is rated at 800 gph. I doubt this has anything to do with your draining issue.
It does not shake continously, but every so often. Almost like it's pulsating at times. The microbubbles do make it back to the main tank. Not enough that it's noticeable from a few feet away, but if you walk up to the tank you clearly see it.

Where do you get flex pvc?

Thanks!


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Unread 04/21/2007, 09:10 PM   #36
chase33
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I got it from Home Depot. I originally wanted to use regular PVC but I have the megaflow overflow system and it was easier to connect the flex pvc to the bulkhead. The size is 1 1/2" and it fits snugly over the bulkhead. My sump has three sections. The first houses the skimmer and the second is the return chamber. There are baffles between these two sections. The third is the fuge. I am running a mag 18 on the return and I divert some of the flow back into the fuge where it spills over into the return section. The flow into the fuge is controlled by a ball valve. Again, from time to time one of the drain pipes shake but it only lasts for a minute or so and because the flow is fast there are a lot of bubbles in that section. Some make it into the return section but they do not get into the tank.


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Current Tank Info: 120 G reef, 40g sump with AquaC EV 180 skimmer -mag 7 pump, Mag 18 return pump, fuge in sump.
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Unread 04/21/2007, 09:27 PM   #37
agsansoo
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I agree with amike5, all you need is a tee on your return. Then place a ball valve after the tee so you can return water back in to the return section. This will not harm the pump, it will reduce the flow back into the display tank.

Here's mine ... In mine my tee goes into a separate refugium, your would go back into your sump. Hope this helps !




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Unread 04/21/2007, 09:33 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by loves saltwater
Let me take a shot at explaining this.

2. With the same 600 GPH drain as about and your pump will flow say 950 GPH like the Mag 9.5 you will suck the sump dry because you are draining 600 GPH and pumping back 950 GPH.

I'm sorry, but that is a VERY false statement. If you pump 950gph to the tank, but only return 600, you are going to have a lot of water on the floor!

You should not think of it as a drain. A drain is at the bottom (like a bath tub), your overflow is near the top. What you pump in is what is going to flow out, until you reach its maximum, then the rest spills over the top and on the floor. If you want less to flow out and down to the sump, pump less in.

My advice would be to divert some of the pumps output back to the sump, or better, get a smaller pump (like a mag 5).


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Unread 04/21/2007, 09:37 PM   #39
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I would also consider recirculating and direct feeding that G2. Not a top priority, but it will make a huge difference. Something to think about in the future.


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Unread 04/21/2007, 11:52 PM   #40
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Thanks guys! I have figured out what I need to do now.


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Unread 05/06/2007, 07:23 PM   #41
Pirate@40
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I hope you decided to put a valve on the return line. I'd never recommend restricting the drain as the last thing you want is a return pumping faster than the drain can handle. I'd open the return full and watch the water level. If it starts to go near the top of the overflow slots, cut the return a bit with the valve. Adding a valve is just adding for head pressure. It shouldn't affect you pump adversely unless you close it way back. Your standpipe should adjust to the flow by increasing or decreasing the air dropping down the pipe. This of course does create bubbles in your sump. I get rid of that by putting a filter sock on the standpipe at the end of the drop.


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Unread 05/06/2007, 07:43 PM   #42
PatMayo
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I have a 90 AGA with the megaflow and use a mag 7 return pump. Nothing is restricted and all works well.

Regards,

Pat


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Unread 05/06/2007, 08:15 PM   #43
sirjohn
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I would recommend replacing the mag 9.5 with an Eheim 1260 Hobby Pump. I've run both and I've found that Eheim pumps are quieter, run cooler and use less watts than the mags. They are more expensive though.

The 1260 should match your system perfectly.


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