electrical outlet for Chiller

mollymonticello · 05/07/2007, 07:01 PM

Hi, I just bought a chiller that I can't return from ebay. When I read the instructions, it said the chiller needs to be plugged into an outlet that can handle four or five times more current than a regular outlet, and that it needs to be on its own line in the fusebox or whatever. I'm not an electrician. Anyhow, my father in law (who owns our house) says none of the outlets fit that description, they all share lines with one another, and he doesn't think it'll work. Says I'll burn the house down.

Here are the specs on the chiller: 1/10 hp, 110volts, 60 hz, 280 watts.
What other appliance that I'd be familiar with is comparable to that?
A little more than a light bulb, I guess, but should I have a problem?

jerl77 · 05/07/2007, 07:10 PM

just run your own line from the beaker box with 12-3 wire 15 amps you should be fine gfi needed outlet

mollymonticello · 05/07/2007, 07:18 PM

Uhhhhhhhh........I'm a girl, lol. I usually don't use that excuse. But I think I'll have to pay an electrician to come in to do that.

reef_doug · 05/07/2007, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jerl77
just run your own line from the beaker box with 12-3 wire 15 amps you should be fine gfi needed outlet

I'm interested in doing this also. Other than hiring an Electrician, are there any DIY instructions out there? Pics?

shag26272 · 05/07/2007, 07:42 PM

how many amps is the chiller? what brand?

sublime-1 · 05/07/2007, 08:07 PM

well, w=va in electrical terms.

Meaning watts = volts x amps.

So since a standard wall outlet is 120v /15A then the outlet can produce 1800 W.

I'd say u're fine with a regular run of the mill outlet.

BD

shag26272 · 05/07/2007, 08:15 PM

yeah a regular 1/10 chiller definitely doesnt need a dedicated circuit

sublime-1 · 05/07/2007, 08:35 PM

280 Watts is about equivalent to a dorm room refrigerator.

You know, the tiny 1/8 size refrigerators.

I never went to college, but can't imagine it would need a dedicated circuit.

I guess the theory is maybe if your breaker trips in the summer, if your chiller is on a seperate circuit from your main load, then you might avoid boiling your coral.

In any case, run your chilling to it's own plug, whether that be to a single outlet, or to a dedicated 1 port surge arrestor. This will prevent the compressor load on the chiller from inadvertantly tripping the strip your powerheads and return pump are plugged into.

Just my .02. I am assuming if you have the cheddar to buy a chiller, than you can obviously spend the other $40 on a single outlet surge protector.

ha ha ha

just kidding. but have you SEEN what they want for a 1/8 hp in the LFS. I found one on the used rack for $200, brand new, but it didn't have the controller.

Man should have jumped on it.

BD

Henry Bowman · 05/07/2007, 08:47 PM

sublime-1's right. Just read this thread and went to the kitchen and looked at my Oster brand toaster. It pulls 900 watts....

I dont think you are going to burn anything down with that 1/10 hp chiller.

Icefire · 05/08/2007, 02:24 AM

280w is nothing, plug it in any outlet

mollymonticello · 05/08/2007, 08:06 PM

Thank you for your help, everybody! I have to show this proof to my father in law before I am allowed to plug the dumb thing in. He's convinced I'll burn the house down.

Quote:

Originally posted by sublime-1
well, w=va in electrical terms.

Meaning watts = volts x amps.

So since a standard wall outlet is 120v /15A then the outlet can produce 1800 W.

I'd say u're fine with a regular run of the mill outlet.

BD

Ok, algebra a little rusty. If Watts (280) = volts (110) x Amps

That would mean 280 divided by 110 equals Amps = 2.54

is that right? Then if a standard outlet is 15 amps, then I'm ok, I think? Well, it will be in my basement, which is 65 degrees right now, and the outside temp is in the 80's. I'd actually have to have a heater running most of the time, and the chiller only on the hottest days that the basement goes above 70. (this is for subtropical seahorses)

BeanAnimal · 05/08/2007, 08:40 PM

280W is a little less than (3) 100W lightbulbs. You should not have a problem as long as the circuit is not heavily loaded already.

The unit is CERTAINLY safe to plug in. If it overloads the circuit (due to the other items already plugged im and using current) then the breaker will trip. You will not burn down the house either way.

mlb75 · 05/09/2007, 01:04 PM

If that's what the manufacturer says about that chiller I'd hate to see what they'd recommend for my light, ~1400watts, they'd probably recommend a direct connection to a nuc reactor

You're perfectly fine to plug that in anywhere. Like Bean said worst case is you'll pop the breaker IF there's to many other items already running on that circuit but that's doubtful. IF it does pop the breaker unplug it and plug it into a different socket that's on a different breaker.

93blackgt5.0 · 05/09/2007, 01:19 PM

What type of chiller did you pick up. I have been checking some of the ebay units myself. Can you post a pic or two?

Eric

05/07/2007, 07:01 PM	#1
mollymonticello Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 563	electrical outlet for Chiller Hi, I just bought a chiller that I can't return from ebay. When I read the instructions, it said the chiller needs to be plugged into an outlet that can handle four or five times more current than a regular outlet, and that it needs to be on its own line in the fusebox or whatever. I'm not an electrician. Anyhow, my father in law (who owns our house) says none of the outlets fit that description, they all share lines with one another, and he doesn't think it'll work. Says I'll burn the house down. Here are the specs on the chiller: 1/10 hp, 110volts, 60 hz, 280 watts. What other appliance that I'd be familiar with is comparable to that? A little more than a light bulb, I guess, but should I have a problem? __________________ - Felicia - Current Tank Info: 55 + two 20 gallon refugiums coldwater with puffer, seahorses, gobies, crabs, starfish all from the Atlantic. 90 gallon w 20 gal refugium with Tilefish, Swallowtail Angel, Blue Tang, Clingfish, Naked Clown, Fancy white clown, brachio blenny, mollies

05/07/2007, 07:18 PM	#3
mollymonticello Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 563	Uhhhhhhhh........I'm a girl, lol. I usually don't use that excuse. But I think I'll have to pay an electrician to come in to do that. __________________ - Felicia - Current Tank Info: 55 + two 20 gallon refugiums coldwater with puffer, seahorses, gobies, crabs, starfish all from the Atlantic. 90 gallon w 20 gal refugium with Tilefish, Swallowtail Angel, Blue Tang, Clingfish, Naked Clown, Fancy white clown, brachio blenny, mollies

05/07/2007, 07:42 PM	#5
shag26272 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 3,088	how many amps is the chiller? what brand? __________________ .

05/07/2007, 08:07 PM	#6
sublime-1 Habitual line-stepper Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Forney, TX Posts: 146	well, w=va in electrical terms. Meaning watts = volts x amps. So since a standard wall outlet is 120v /15A then the outlet can produce 1800 W. I'd say u're fine with a regular run of the mill outlet. BD __________________ 50G pseudo'cube underway Current Tank Info: 100G FOWLR

05/07/2007, 08:15 PM	#7
shag26272 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 3,088	yeah a regular 1/10 chiller definitely doesnt need a dedicated circuit __________________ .

05/07/2007, 07:10 PM	#2
jerl77 Moved On Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: long island ny Posts: 325	just run your own line from the beaker box with 12-3 wire 15 amps you should be fine gfi needed outlet

05/07/2007, 08:35 PM	#8
sublime-1 Habitual line-stepper Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Forney, TX Posts: 146	280 Watts is about equivalent to a dorm room refrigerator. You know, the tiny 1/8 size refrigerators. I never went to college, but can't imagine it would need a dedicated circuit. I guess the theory is maybe if your breaker trips in the summer, if your chiller is on a seperate circuit from your main load, then you might avoid boiling your coral. In any case, run your chilling to it's own plug, whether that be to a single outlet, or to a dedicated 1 port surge arrestor. This will prevent the compressor load on the chiller from inadvertantly tripping the strip your powerheads and return pump are plugged into. Just my .02. I am assuming if you have the cheddar to buy a chiller, than you can obviously spend the other $40 on a single outlet surge protector. ha ha ha just kidding. but have you SEEN what they want for a 1/8 hp in the LFS. I found one on the used rack for $200, brand new, but it didn't have the controller. Man should have jumped on it. BD __________________ 50G pseudo'cube underway Current Tank Info: 100G FOWLR

05/07/2007, 08:47 PM	#9
Henry Bowman Reefing since '87 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Allegheny Mountains of VA Posts: 2,162	sublime-1's right. Just read this thread and went to the kitchen and looked at my Oster brand toaster. It pulls 900 watts.... I dont think you are going to burn anything down with that 1/10 hp chiller. __________________ Have a good'un Current Tank Info: 90 gl SPS dominant / upgrade in the works

05/08/2007, 02:24 AM	#10
Icefire Seasoned reefer Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: In Quebec, Canada Posts: 3,653	280w is nothing, plug it in any outlet __________________ Temp 80F, PH 8.5-8.0, Alk 6.8-7.2, Ca 430, Mg 1700, NO3 0-0.25, PO4 0.04, 34.4 PPT Lights @ 100% all others, 35% White Current Tank Info: 60g Cube, 120lbs live rocks, Hydra52 2x120W, 2 MP40+ 1 MP10 @ 70%, Phosban 550 GFO+Carbon, 200W Heater, SWC Skimmer, Kalk ATO, 150 gpd RODI

05/08/2007, 08:40 PM	#12
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	280W is a little less than (3) 100W lightbulbs. You should not have a problem as long as the circuit is not heavily loaded already. The unit is CERTAINLY safe to plug in. If it overloads the circuit (due to the other items already plugged im and using current) then the breaker will trip. You will not burn down the house either way.

05/09/2007, 01:04 PM	#13
mlb75 Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Chesapeake VA Posts: 399	If that's what the manufacturer says about that chiller I'd hate to see what they'd recommend for my light, ~1400watts, they'd probably recommend a direct connection to a nuc reactor You're perfectly fine to plug that in anywhere. Like Bean said worst case is you'll pop the breaker IF there's to many other items already running on that circuit but that's doubtful. IF it does pop the breaker unplug it and plug it into a different socket that's on a different breaker. __________________ Mike Current Tank Info: Currently tankless planning ~90G nano

05/09/2007, 01:19 PM	#14
93blackgt5.0 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Wichita Falls, TX Posts: 119	What type of chiller did you pick up. I have been checking some of the ebay units myself. Can you post a pic or two? Eric __________________ 75 gallon reef with 100 plus pounds live rock and many corals. Current USA Outer Orbit fixture 150x2 HQI with 130x2 PC. 125 with 55 sump in the works. Current Tank Info: 75 gallon reef