Noobs New Setup Please Critique!!

InADream · 05/12/2007, 06:54 AM

Alright guys and gals, I will be starting a new tank up here in the next month and need some advice... First off it will be a 75 gallon tank with overflow... I will be using a wet/dry filter and a protein skimmer... Probably both a DIY project but not sure yet... The tank is going to be a reef tank with tons of corals, zoos, fish, and other exotic stuff...

My real question is about lighting... My LFS told me I would need (2) 400 Watt Metal Halde bulbs in order to be able to put anything in there... The tank is not overly deep it is just long... Now i dont know much about lighting, or what brand they recommend just wanted to ask if that sound right, and if you guys had some options... Thanks for looking...

Dream

steve the plumb · 05/12/2007, 07:23 AM

forget the wet dry.You don't need it.Live rock will act as a filter.You will need a sump with calerpa or chetto.If you don't have the room you will need a denitrate reactor in the future.How long is the tank and how deep.What type of corals do you want to keep.Acros? LPS?I don't think 2x 400 watts is needed in a 75 gal tank(overkill)

drwonga · 05/12/2007, 08:07 AM

I agree with Steve, put some ecosystems mud in the sump, grow some calupera, light it on an opposite schedule as the main tank. 2x400W on a 75 is def overkill. From what I've heard, 2x250 should be fine. Since this is your first tank though, you may want to consider different options-ie: VHO. MH lighting can be tricky at times. Anybody else have thoughts?

snommisbor · 05/12/2007, 08:14 AM

I agree with Steve 400 is ovekill. Unless you want to get some of the highest light feeding anemone, go with the 250W. You could SPS and Clams and any other LPS and softie. Plus you get too much some softies won't do well. I put a 150W on my 12 G Nano, and it shriveled up my mushrooms. I moved them to my 75 with PC's and they are back to normal. With 250 you will be able to put some of the lower lights on the end down low. I personally prefer the softies better anyway because I like to see the movement like Xenia, and Frogspawn.

steve the plumb · 05/12/2007, 11:30 AM

I would go with T5 lights.You can keep anything you want plus alot less heat.I am going to go with 2 x 4 ft on my 300 gal that I am setting up.Aquatinics model with 7 bulbs this should be more than enough light

steve the plumb · 05/12/2007, 11:31 AM

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/cat...ath=28_111_112

InADream · 05/12/2007, 06:39 PM

I am still working on what is actually going to go in there... I know for sure there will be a brain coral, some zoo`s, and a carpet anemone... Thats all there is for now that is a definate... I think I am going to put a 250 metal halide up there...

woodycb · 05/12/2007, 07:11 PM

definatly t-5's, alot less heat, a lot less power consumption, and the bulbs last about a year to year and half.

aninjaatemyshoe · 05/12/2007, 08:04 PM

The T5 generating less heat than MH is a complete misnomer. People think that, since the T5 bulbs are cooler to the touch, they produce less heat Watt for Watt. T5 bulbs are cooler to the touch because they spread the heat over the entire length of the bulb. With MH, the heat is concentrated in a smaller space, so it is quite a bit higher in temperature. The reality is that MH bulbs, if anything, generate less heat Watt for Watt because they are more efficient. MHs generate up to 110 lumens/Watt whereas T5s generate about 90 lumens/Watt. I think it is also alot easier to cool the top of a tank with fans when you use MH because there is less air restriction than if you had T5s over top.

Regarding the lifespan of bulbs, MHs have been shown to decrease to about 75-80% of their original output after their first 6 months, but not much more thereafter for about a year and a half. If your setup is such that you can deal with that somewhat small decrease, then you really don't need to change them anymore than you would a T5. However, if you need to squeeze every ounce of output from your setup, then you might end up changing the bulbs twice a year.

fewells · 05/12/2007, 08:20 PM

I would run 2 250 HQI. You should be able to do anything you want. I run t5's now and am considering selling my unit. I like the looks of my corals under mh. And yes t5's put off alot of heat It is just spread out over the whole fixture. I had less heat problems with MH.

InADream · 05/12/2007, 11:07 PM

Thanks, I do believe it is going to be Metal Halide... Next I need to find a diagram or plans to a filter using the calerpa... Does anyone have a plan or DIY diagram... That would be greatly appreciated... Thanks everyone for your inputs...

drwonga · 05/13/2007, 05:57 AM

Take a look at the CPR hang on back refugium. The biggest "feature" I like is the power pumps water into the refugium, and gravity pulls it back to the tank. No mess, no hassle. I'm thinking about building my own-seems to be a pretty basic design. I've had some excellent results with the ecosystems mud. It may be expensive, but the results are very nice.

05/12/2007, 06:54 AM	#1
InADream I'm That Guy!! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 1,169	Noobs New Setup Please Critique!! Alright guys and gals, I will be starting a new tank up here in the next month and need some advice... First off it will be a 75 gallon tank with overflow... I will be using a wet/dry filter and a protein skimmer... Probably both a DIY project but not sure yet... The tank is going to be a reef tank with tons of corals, zoos, fish, and other exotic stuff... My real question is about lighting... My LFS told me I would need (2) 400 Watt Metal Halde bulbs in order to be able to put anything in there... The tank is not overly deep it is just long... Now i dont know much about lighting, or what brand they recommend just wanted to ask if that sound right, and if you guys had some options... Thanks for looking... Dream

05/12/2007, 08:07 AM	#3
drwonga Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Silicon Valley Posts: 110	I agree with Steve, put some ecosystems mud in the sump, grow some calupera, light it on an opposite schedule as the main tank. 2x400W on a 75 is def overkill. From what I've heard, 2x250 should be fine. Since this is your first tank though, you may want to consider different options-ie: VHO. MH lighting can be tricky at times. Anybody else have thoughts? __________________ <insert something creative> Current Tank Info: 20 Gallon Tanganyikan Tank, 40 Breeder Lake Valencia, Venezuela Biotope

05/12/2007, 08:14 AM	#4
snommisbor Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 276	I agree with Steve 400 is ovekill. Unless you want to get some of the highest light feeding anemone, go with the 250W. You could SPS and Clams and any other LPS and softie. Plus you get too much some softies won't do well. I put a 150W on my 12 G Nano, and it shriveled up my mushrooms. I moved them to my 75 with PC's and they are back to normal. With 250 you will be able to put some of the lower lights on the end down low. I personally prefer the softies better anyway because I like to see the movement like Xenia, and Frogspawn. __________________ This is where you are supposed to type something witty. Current Tank Info: IM10

05/12/2007, 06:39 PM	#7
InADream I'm That Guy!! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 1,169	I am still working on what is actually going to go in there... I know for sure there will be a brain coral, some zoo`s, and a carpet anemone... Thats all there is for now that is a definate... I think I am going to put a 250 metal halide up there... __________________ Dan Current Tank: Innovative Marine Fusion 40, Custom Built Stand, Ecotech XR15w Pro, Ecotech Vortech MP10wes, Ecotech Reef Link, Custom Built Media Caddy, IM Fuge Light, Ghost Skimmer.

05/12/2007, 07:11 PM	#8
woodycb Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: N.W. Ohio Posts: 785	definatly t-5's, alot less heat, a lot less power consumption, and the bulbs last about a year to year and half. __________________ We have enough youth, how about a fountain of SMART Current Tank Info: 75 gallon

05/12/2007, 07:23 AM	#2
steve the plumb Moved On Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 3,664	forget the wet dry.You don't need it.Live rock will act as a filter.You will need a sump with calerpa or chetto.If you don't have the room you will need a denitrate reactor in the future.How long is the tank and how deep.What type of corals do you want to keep.Acros? LPS?I don't think 2x 400 watts is needed in a 75 gal tank(overkill)

05/12/2007, 11:30 AM	#5
steve the plumb Moved On Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 3,664	I would go with T5 lights.You can keep anything you want plus alot less heat.I am going to go with 2 x 4 ft on my 300 gal that I am setting up.Aquatinics model with 7 bulbs this should be more than enough light

05/12/2007, 11:31 AM	#6
steve the plumb Moved On Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 3,664	http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/cat...ath=28_111_112

05/12/2007, 08:04 PM	#9
aninjaatemyshoe Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Dallas, Texas Posts: 2,333	The T5 generating less heat than MH is a complete misnomer. People think that, since the T5 bulbs are cooler to the touch, they produce less heat Watt for Watt. T5 bulbs are cooler to the touch because they spread the heat over the entire length of the bulb. With MH, the heat is concentrated in a smaller space, so it is quite a bit higher in temperature. The reality is that MH bulbs, if anything, generate less heat Watt for Watt because they are more efficient. MHs generate up to 110 lumens/Watt whereas T5s generate about 90 lumens/Watt. I think it is also alot easier to cool the top of a tank with fans when you use MH because there is less air restriction than if you had T5s over top. Regarding the lifespan of bulbs, MHs have been shown to decrease to about 75-80% of their original output after their first 6 months, but not much more thereafter for about a year and a half. If your setup is such that you can deal with that somewhat small decrease, then you really don't need to change them anymore than you would a T5. However, if you need to squeeze every ounce of output from your setup, then you might end up changing the bulbs twice a year. __________________ You are not brought upon this world to "get it"

05/12/2007, 08:20 PM	#10
fewells Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Lake of the Ozarks, MO Posts: 356	I would run 2 250 HQI. You should be able to do anything you want. I run t5's now and am considering selling my unit. I like the looks of my corals under mh. And yes t5's put off alot of heat It is just spread out over the whole fixture. I had less heat problems with MH. __________________ When you look this good you don't have to know anything. Current Tank Info: 90 reef

05/12/2007, 11:07 PM	#11
InADream I'm That Guy!! Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 1,169	Thanks, I do believe it is going to be Metal Halide... Next I need to find a diagram or plans to a filter using the calerpa... Does anyone have a plan or DIY diagram... That would be greatly appreciated... Thanks everyone for your inputs... __________________ Dan Current Tank: Innovative Marine Fusion 40, Custom Built Stand, Ecotech XR15w Pro, Ecotech Vortech MP10wes, Ecotech Reef Link, Custom Built Media Caddy, IM Fuge Light, Ghost Skimmer.

05/13/2007, 05:57 AM	#12
drwonga Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Silicon Valley Posts: 110	Take a look at the CPR hang on back refugium. The biggest "feature" I like is the power pumps water into the refugium, and gravity pulls it back to the tank. No mess, no hassle. I'm thinking about building my own-seems to be a pretty basic design. I've had some excellent results with the ecosystems mud. It may be expensive, but the results are very nice. __________________ <insert something creative> Current Tank Info: 20 Gallon Tanganyikan Tank, 40 Breeder Lake Valencia, Venezuela Biotope