Reeflo Snapper to much on 40g CL?

[sayn3ver]

simple question. Too much flow? Will probably have an oceanmotions waterchanger inline. If too much, is there another pump worth using in this application?

[flyyyguy]

The snapper will be perfect.

Just put a ball valve on the output of the pump and if its too much you can taper it back accordingly.

To be honest, might as well get the Dart. You can taper it back accordingly the same way, and if you decide to go BB or simply get a bigger tank in the future, you will have a little more to work with for not very much more money now.

[sayn3ver]

it is going to be BB. Coming from planted tanks, 2000gph seems like a hurricane....haha. This will be my first reef and i wanna do it right.

Secondly, when i drill the tank for the 2inch intake required for the dart/snapper, can i just use a strainer on it intank or will all lifeforms be sucked onto/glued onto it?

[flyyyguy]

Originally posted by sayn3ver
it is going to be BB. Coming from planted tanks, 2000gph seems like a hurricane....haha. This will be my first reef and i wanna do it right.

Secondly, when i drill the tank for the 2inch intake required for the dart/snapper, can i just use a strainer on it intank or will all lifeforms be sucked onto/glued onto it?

If its going to be BB, definitely get the dart. Dependign on how you plumb it, you might not want it all, but its there for you should you change your mind.

ARe you going to be incorporating spraybars in your cls to clear the detritus out from under the rock??

I use a OM 8 way, drum cut 3 ports open on my 90. I power it with a Hammerhead.

As far as the intake. Get one of these.

http://www.spacare.com/index.asp?Pag...OD&ProdID=3796

they are sweet and distribute the suction well so critters wont get stuck. That link is to a 1.5"...but they have 2" ones as well. They come with MPT that simple screw into your threaded bulkhead.

[sayn3ver]

sweetness.

I haven't planned for a spray bar in the rock work, as i didn't want to drill the bottom of the tank(its going into my bedroom on the 2nd floor and if the bulkhead cracked or started leaking, it would be a real disaster. Drilling higher up would allow me to only have to drain 10-15g of water to get the waterline below the hole rather than all 40gallons. I also am going to use starboard/HDPE on the bottom and am not sure if i feel like cutting and fitting plumbing witht that. I also don't trust a check valve as the only thing preventing the tank from draining onto the floor if i opt for a bottom drilled spray bar)

My plan was to have opposing current left to right switching with the incorporation of either oceanmotions revolutions + hydor flo wavemakers, and some standard loc line fllare nozzles.I'd probably will drill the sides of the tank(3 bulkhead on each side near the top) to make this happen(in addition to the returns from the sump + fuge on the back wall). Planning on going with a 24in-36in internal horizonal overflow about 5-6 inches vertical and about 2 inches deep...no teeth.

[flyyyguy]

Originally posted by sayn3ver
sweetness.

I haven't planned for a spray bar in the rock work, as i didn't want to drill the bottom of the tank(its going into my bedroom on the 2nd floor and if the bulkhead cracked or started leaking, it would be a real disaster. Drilling higher up would allow me to only have to drain 10-15g of water to get the waterline below the hole rather than all 40gallons. I also am going to use starboard/HDPE on the bottom and am not sure if i feel like cutting and fitting plumbing witht that. I also don't trust a check valve as the only thing preventing the tank from draining onto the floor if i opt for a bottom drilled spray bar)

My plan was to have opposing current left to right switching with the incorporation of either oceanmotions revolutions + hydor flo wavemakers, and some standard loc line fllare nozzles.I'd probably will drill the sides of the tank(3 bulkhead on each side near the top) to make this happen(in addition to the returns from the sump + fuge on the back wall). Planning on going with a 24in-36in internal horizonal overflow about 5-6 inches vertical and about 2 inches deep...no teeth.

I didnt necessarily mean a spray bar IN your rockwork.

If you put the bulkhead(s) for the spraybar(s) into the bottom back of the tank, and the spraybar(s) going across the back floor fo the tank, the spraybar sweeps the floor under your rock, and if you have enough kick you can actually not only clear the floor, but get everything suspended as well.

Its a CLS, so backsiphoning is an non issue. You only have to deal with that on yoru sump return line(s)

Im not a big fan of powerheads in the tank, as i dont like to look at them. But in your situation with a glass tank, and not wanting to riddle it with holes, i would suggest going with the powerheads on a controller for your primary reef flow, and utilize JUST the spraybar on your CLS. This will cut down the holes to only two or 3 depending on how you do the spraybar(s). 2 shorter spraybars is better than one longer spraybar IMO. Hence why i say 2 OR 3 holes drilled, as you could do it with just one if you choose.

If you arent going to use teeth, how are you going to keep snails and critters from getting into your overflow??

[sayn3ver]

from all of the overflow material i've read about on this forum, it seems they are not needed and there are alot of members very opposed to teeth(add noise, reduce efficeny of surface skimming, etc).

It never occured to me to add a spray bar to the closed loop. I will take that into consideration.

I don't mind drilling the tank. worse comes to worse i'll buy a new one but should i be concerned with structural strength with too many holes?