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#126 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 848
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You have to cut the intake tube because it is too long for small tanks. It would hit the bottom of the tank. You'll need to cut it down to fit.
--Colin |
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#127 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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i see...i dont think it will be a problem for my 26G. Its 24" deep. What is that surface skimmer ppl are talking about?? I already have a HOB counter current skimmer.
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#128 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dunkirk
Posts: 98
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#129 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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dirtyone you placed your baffle somewhere completly different from where supermongolia did. He placed it so that the intake chamber and actually fuge area are seperated. How far away from the intake chamer and how high off the floor of the filter Should the acrylic baffle be?
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#130 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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Does the baffle need to be siliconed to the base of the filter?? How high should it be and how far from the intake and impeller area?
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#131 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dunkirk
Posts: 98
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Quote:
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#132 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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Im going to be using acrylic as the baffle. I still dont know if it should be sealed against the bottom of the flter. How high it should be and how far from the intake chamber.
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#133 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dunkirk
Posts: 98
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Quote:
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#134 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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ok you havent answered my question dirtyone. I need to know if the acrylic baffle needs to be sealed againt the floor of the aquarium. and How far away from the intake chamber should it be? Anyone?
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#135 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Dunkirk
Posts: 98
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it doesnt really matter how far away from the intake chamber, i left enough room so i could get at the impellar. yes it should be siliconed because theres nothing to hold it in place.
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#136 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southeastern Wisconsin
Posts: 4,521
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Also depends on whether or not you want to be able to put any filter cartridges in there.
__________________
-Tyler Oceanic 58RR display/20H sump/fuge thread...follow the red house. Current Tank Info: Oceanic 58g, 20H sump, AquaC EV-150, 175w Hamilton 14k + 2x39w T5HO Actinics |
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#137 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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I got a AC70 but used the impellar from the 20. When i used the AC20 impellar the water barely filled up the 'u' section of the intake tube. It made a gurgling noise also. And theres soo much bubbles in the display when its on. Any way to stop the gurgling noise? Use a AC 30 impellar perhaps?
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#138 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 848
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Quote:
OR I had this problem when I did mine. There are some vertical ridges in the groove on the front of the filter where the intake tube clamps in. These keep a modified intake tube from seating completely on the impeller. You may need to sand them off (I used a dremel). There should be no gurgling or microbubles after the filter has primed and is up and running. I have an AC 20 impeller in mine and it's completely silent. --Colin |
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#139 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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I got it..thanks for the help colin. Its up and running. Going to see nitrates in 2 weeks from now. Current nitrates are at 30ppm. The only thing i screwed up on is my baffle does not go all the way to the bottom. Theres abour a 1cm gao due to the narrowing of the filter. I have a sand bed in the filter too. Should i be worried about this??
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#140 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 34
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I just finished this mod on an AC70 I've got it up and running on my JBJ Picotope but I wanted to run a reverse light cycle on it and its in my and my girlfriends bedroom so I taped off the return and any parts the would be in contact with the water and used Krylon Satin Black to spray paint the outside until it was completely opaque. I made a new top out of a $2 piece of acrylic from lowes which I also spray painted opaque black leaving a window taped off directly above the fuge area and secured it using two rare earth magnets. One I glued onto the underside where the piece if the filter sticks up between the return and and the intake and the other I glued to the top of my diy top. I salvaged an old light that sits flat on the top and stuck in a 6700K curly CF bulb. I only get a little light leakage that I should be able to take care of with another spraypainted piece of acrylic glued to the front of my diy top that ends right above the returning water because there is light leaking from the grid on the front.
This thing is the perfect size to hold a Visi-therm Deluxe 50W, I made a baffle to seperate my heater and give me an area to hold filter floss and carbon or whatnot when needed. I shaved too much of the stock impeller even though I shaved then tested then shaved more and tested again, the last time I had to shave off a lot to get each impeller blade even. So I've ordered a AC50 impeller for my AC70, I still want a lot of flow as I'm trying to make this the only thing on my picotope because I hate the look of equipment in the tank. So far my nitrates have dropped from ~30 to~10 in a week and a half and the reverse light cycle has really helped keep my ph stable. |
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#141 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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oh heyy i would do a reverse light cycle but its the light issue that bothers me...my tank is in my bedroom. I would really like to see some pictures of it and might try doing the same!!!
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#142 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 848
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Quote:
The sand will be bad if it gets in the impeller chamber. It'll be noisy and could lock up. For my baffle, I used the side off of the basket that came with it and just stuck it in the slot on that side of the filter. I'm only using chaeto, though. No sand or rock. I had a reduction in nitrate from ~20 to 0 in a few days. It's amazing. --Colin |
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#143 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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oh yea...if your getting such good results with just the cheato i might take out the sand when i do some maintenance work on the filter...Do you use some type of floss to get the big debris out of the water? Oh yea and should the cheato be rolling or moving at all because i dont seem to have much circulation where the cheato is.
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#144 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 848
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The chaeto is pretty good at catching the big stuff. Pods and worms will colonize it and eat the debris.
I think the water flow comes from the bottom to the top, so it flows through the chaeto. Mine doesn't move at all. --Colin |
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#145 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2
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What do you use to cut the extension tube?
Thanks! |
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#146 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 848
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I used a dremel. You could probably use a hacksaw too.
--Colin |
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#147 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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How does the flow come from the bottom if the baffle is siliconed to the base of the filter? Sorry i just want to make sure my refugium is running probably.
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#148 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 182
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I use a dremel also to cut plastics and PVC, but used a coping saw prior: it works well because there are many small teeth. -Trey
__________________
Live as if your were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever. -Mahatma Gandhi Current Tank Info: first reef tank: 28 gal JBJ nanocube HQI , NanoTuners actinic mod, JBJ ATO, refugium mod in center overflow chamber using 9x5” 6500K PC |
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#149 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 848
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Quote:
--Colin |
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#150 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 694
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oh ok...im all good then..going to test nitrates tomorrow and see if it went down from 20ppm prior to installing the fuge.
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