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Unread 08/02/2007, 04:14 PM   #1
spider8u
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best way to treat ich

Hi what is the best way to treat ich looking at to ways copper or Hyposalinity.I got some copper from the lfs its called copper power it say to use at 2.5 ppm one fluid ounce to each 20gl my QT is 10gl but dont really fell safe in useing the copper not really sure how much to put in the tank or i am scared i am going to use to much i do have a seachem copper test kit but it only reads upto 1.0 or maybe i just dont know how to read it.So is Hyposalinity just as good as copper for ich i feel much safer doing it that way thx


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Unread 08/02/2007, 04:29 PM   #2
Randall_James
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http://myreeflinks.com/directory/545.html
here are a few links...

Both copper and Hypo require pretty strict compliance to salt and copper levels. The test kit you get for copper must be for the same copper you are treating with. (2 types).

Both must be done in a hospital tank (no inverts allowed)

If you go with hypo, a lab grade hydrometer or a calibrated refractometer are suggested. There is a lot of mis-information about plastic hydrometers and they are not as inaccurate as you may be led to believe.

Read up on the links above and then see which way you want to go


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Unread 08/02/2007, 05:40 PM   #3
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use a uv sterilizer. this works well.or you can get a few Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp they work too. I try not to use copper base med they tend to be harmful to tank life.


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Unread 08/02/2007, 05:46 PM   #4
Randall_James
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UV basically ineffective as the parasites are not free swimming but for a brief period.

Cleaner shrimp are only good for a short period as well as the parasites burrow in under the slime coat and out of reach of the shrimp

Copper: should not affect tank life as it should never be in the tank in the first place, hospital tank only with no inverts...

All of this is discussed in the above links I think..

Shall we talk about "garlic" now?


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Unread 08/02/2007, 05:53 PM   #5
Dingo Dog
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I have a LR tank and had one outbreak of ich 3 years ago and was able to save my yellow tang by using a UV filter, nothing else. Once the ich was gone I removed the UV filter, cleaned it up, stored it away and haven't had to hook it back up.

If you go the UV route keep in mind two things. 1. the blub will increase the water temp about 2 - 3 degrees and 2. don't leave the UV running once the ich is gone.


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Unread 08/02/2007, 06:02 PM   #6
firefishred
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Garlic will work but it takes awhile and that's If your fish eats it


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Unread 08/02/2007, 06:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dingo Dog
I have a LR tank and had one outbreak of ich 3 years ago and was able to save my yellow tang by using a UV filter, nothing else. Once the ich was gone I removed the UV filter, cleaned it up, stored it away and haven't had to hook it back up.

If you go the UV route keep in mind two things. 1. the blub will increase the water temp about 2 - 3 degrees and 2. don't leave the UV running once the ich is gone.
most likely the tang was healthy before and was able to fight it off. as stated before UV's will not kill ich that is on a fish.


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Unread 08/02/2007, 06:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by firefishred
Garlic will work but it takes awhile and that's If your fish eats it
garlic doesn't cure ich also. is simply boasts the fishes immune system to help fight off the ich. but garlic is a good choice to use to help get the fish to eat.


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Unread 08/02/2007, 06:06 PM   #9
Randall_James
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Quote:
Originally posted by firefishred
Garlic will work but it takes awhile and that's If your fish eats it
Oh my and the mis-information abounds....

I was being sarcastic as Garlic, ginger, hotsauce, chocolate syrup and a number of other things have all be reported to "cure" ich...

Sad fact is they do not... they may induce a fish to eat better (and that can help them fight off the parasite) but by no means have any of these been shown to have any effect on the ich parasite...

without going into some long diatribe about food supplements or UV, scroll back up and read the links. They are articles written by experts on the subject and refer to studies done etc....

Hypo, copper and the tank change method are the ONLY known ways to eradicate the parasite from your fish..


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Unread 08/03/2007, 07:29 AM   #10
Dingo Dog
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IMO, this site is for sharing data and is not an appropriate arena for sarcasm, when the well-being of our livestock is the whole point for this site. No offense. Yes, there are the occasional incorrect reply and loads of opinion based suggestions. Sometimes there is no one correct answer but several options instead that will help someone with their issue. I would like to think all replies are provided to help answer questions by RC members, based on good intent derived from personal experience vs. conjectures.

I've read many replies over the years which were based on opinions vs. facts. However, within certain subjects, even the 'experts' will disagree. That being a true statement, it is ultimately up to the individual to try and discern which is the correct path.
So, let's keep in mind that our endeavors to share our personal experiences as to what has worked for us and not someone else, should not escalate to a competition/finger pointing event of who it right or wrong but founded on our knowledge based experiences and learnings.

The goal here is to try and help our fellow reefers, not fly our I'm right and you're wrong flag. Let's not get our pantyhose twisted over these things. It's fine to have other opinions and share them w/o getting personal.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 08:22 AM   #11
Nanz
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dingo Dog
I have a LR tank and had one outbreak of ich 3 years ago and was able to save my yellow tang by using a UV filter, nothing else. Once the ich was gone I removed the UV filter, cleaned it up, stored it away and haven't had to hook it back up.

If you go the UV route keep in mind two things. 1. the blub will increase the water temp about 2 - 3 degrees and 2. don't leave the UV running once the ich is gone.
Why would you not leave the UV running? Unless its a temp issue I can't understand why you would not want one running 24/7.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 08:30 AM   #12
Aquarist007
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I biggest lesson I have learned from the short time I have been on this site is the number of misconceptions that I came to it with.
I would rather have these misconceptions cleared up then not
From my experience with numerous other sites---this one is the least that has used sarcasim or put downs, trolling etc etc.
We also need to remind ourselves that email is a very impersonal way of communicating. Sure we can doctor it up with a few smilies but is very difficult to include emotion and feelings--yet very easy to misinterpret them and take it personal.
The very fact that people on this site are taking the time to answer our posts is great--I've been on the opposite of this also.
some of these guys have 10,000 plus posts--imagine all the time that takes----typing in this little editing box

I hope you can see it from this point of view and not take a few words personally.
sincerely
Scott


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Unread 08/03/2007, 08:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nanz
Why would you not leave the UV running? Unless its a temp issue I can't understand why you would not want one running 24/7.
this is a question that I am interested too. lately I been wondering if I should be running a uv sterilzer at all with the refugium well stocked as it is.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 08:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randall_James
http://myreeflinks.com/directory/545.html
here are a few links...

Both copper and Hypo require pretty strict compliance to salt and copper levels. The test kit you get for copper must be for the same copper you are treating with. (2 types).

Both must be done in a hospital tank (no inverts allowed)

If you go with hypo, a lab grade hydrometer or a calibrated refractometer are suggested. There is a lot of mis-information about plastic hydrometers and they are not as inaccurate as you may be led to believe.

Read up on the links above and then see which way you want to go
thanks Randall but the link starts with the 2nd article. I think it is very useful to understand the life cycle of ich in order to understand the treatments so I have taken the liberty to include the link to the first article;

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php


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Unread 08/03/2007, 09:38 AM   #15
Randall_James
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Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur
thanks Randall but the link starts with the 2nd article. I think it is very useful to understand the life cycle of ich in order to understand the treatments so I have taken the liberty to include the link to the first article;

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
I shall get that page loaded, thanks

(and fwiw, I would not run UV on any reef tank, it kills the foods that are most beneficial to many filter feeders)


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Unread 08/03/2007, 09:41 AM   #16
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randall_James
I shall get that page loaded, thanks

(and fwiw, I would not run UV on any reef tank, it kills the foods that are most beneficial to many filter feeders)
thankyou--coming from you---the uv is gone tonight---and I bet I start see all those copopods in my main tank.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 09:52 AM   #17
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randall_James
I shall get that page loaded, thanks

(and fwiw, I would not run UV on any reef tank, it kills the foods that are most beneficial to many filter feeders)
I curious about mylinks.com---is that your personal site? it seems alot easier to maintain then trying to keep up your own site--i haven't been able to do both since joining this site _lol

www.yags.net


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Unread 08/03/2007, 09:57 AM   #18
Randall_James
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dingo Dog
IMO, this site is for sharing data and is not an appropriate arena for sarcasm, when the well-being of our livestock is the whole point for this site.. ......
If a reply does not at least make you "start" to look at the answer with some critical thinking, then the answer does you no good. If you are unwilling to read a few pages of facts as posted by noted experts, then you are likely not going to make it very far in this hobby in the first place.

I as often as I can try to post links to articles that have taken many hours to write and contain references to empirical sources and of course come from acknowledged experts.

Do a search on Ich here.... you will find that about 2/3 of the posts are at the very least "dubious" in nature and have absolutely no scientific basis. (remember we are here for the benefit of our livestock) Ich falls off a fish in 3-5 days period...

Anyone that read the articles I linked too, would have understood the garlic comment. And anyone interested in treating Ich should read those articles btw...

I think a bit of sarcasm is better than an out and out bashing of someone that posts erroneous information on a subject and still protect the other guys livestock.. (besides I figured someone would post about garlic, ginseng and hot sauce before the thread ended... preemptive strike)

Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur
I curious about mylinks.com---is that your personal site? it seems alot easier to maintain then trying to keep up your own site--i haven't been able to do both since joining this site _lol

www.yags.net
I actually host that and a number of other sites for RC members (image hosting, regular websites etc).

I use that site as a repository for articles I see used frequently. I also post links to articles others submit when they seem "relevent"


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Unread 08/03/2007, 10:29 AM   #19
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I think a bit of sarcasm is better than an out and out bashing of someone that posts erroneous information on a subject and still protect the other guys livestock.. (besides I figured someone would post about garlic, ginseng and hot sauce before the thread ended... preemptive strike)

We Canadians still appreciate big brother watching over us

Other point-----I might have stated above---you have to appreciate the number of posts that go through hear on a daily basis--and the degree of 'watchfullness" the moderators have to do to be keeping an eye on them. In the nature of expediency sometimes bluntness, preemptive strike etc is the best way.
As someone relatively new I appreciate the watchful eyes---i would not want to unkowningly give someone incorrect information or have it happen to me.

Randal how about links to the other sites for RC members? would like to look through them


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Unread 08/03/2007, 11:52 AM   #20
stillcity
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A few months ago I had a horrible case of ich in my reef tank on one of my maroons. Parasites all over it. The one eye bulging out. What worked for me was 2 freshwater dips over two days and a full 2 week does of kick ich. During that time I fed the fish food with a garlic additive. Fish continued to eat fine and grew healthy again soon after. No signs of ich since then.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 02:22 PM   #21
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happy fish don't get ich. it has ich for a reason, find that reason and fix it. i don't like to use any medications or hospital tanks. the act of chasing down a fish, to stick it in a tank that is most likely far less stable than my display tank probably stresses the fish out too much and kills more fish than it saves.

if you water is good, the fish is eating, and not getting picked on by other fish i'd wait it out and let it run it's course.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 04:57 PM   #22
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...and chances are you won't get an outbreak if you use a quarantine tank properly for all new additions.


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Unread 08/03/2007, 06:31 PM   #23
Dingo Dog
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So, what caused the ich on my tang to clear up?


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Unread 08/03/2007, 06:34 PM   #24
kau_cinta_ku
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dingo Dog
So, what caused the ich on my tang to clear up?
hard to say we don't know what you did to the tank during the time or was feeding and such. but i am sure you did water changes and such other then just adding a UV


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Unread 08/03/2007, 06:49 PM   #25
kkyyllee
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everytank contains ich, healthy fish do not develope ich, qt just allaows it to be treated easier, best treatment i would say is to the leave the fish the heck alone in an established


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