New Lumen Bright Reflector. ... any info on them - Page 12

Just Jim · 11/16/2007, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JRaquatics
You can also frame the reflectors into a box and suspend them from the drop ceiling.

I've decided to build a canopy. The box idea actually sounds kind of neat though. I thought about it for a minute and decided it was as much work and as much of an abstruction as the canopy...

KurtsReef · 11/16/2007, 05:23 PM

OK, by no means scientific but after the outer lights went out decided to take a shot of the tank for this thread. My wife was in the kitchen to the right with the lights on and refused to turn them off...like you have to see when doing dishes or something...anyway so the ambient light is kind of killing what I was trying to do on that side and show the angle of light...but took an underexposed shot to see where the light was very strong...

Had the kids hold up a measuring tape so that I could say for sure instead of guessing 4 feet and marked the 2', 3', 4' and 4'6" markings on the tape a bit larger so that you can read them. I think from looking at this I need to level the reflectors this one seems to be angled a bit...but bottom of reflectors are 5 and 1/2" above the top of the tank making the bulbs about 14-16 inches above the water. I feel that there would be some pretty decent PAR readings around 1'4" over to 5'6" but the light is very strong from the 2' to 4' 9" area, this photograph is a very dark representation of how it really looks (take a look at the center light it would be blown out white if I had exposed longer but wanted to get the very strong light area so under exposed)

Just Jim · 11/16/2007, 05:30 PM

cool, any pics of the ballast positioning? I was told to cut the white cord that came with it down to 1'. So I'm not going to have a lot of slack to run into my "fish room".

KurtsReef · 11/16/2007, 05:39 PM

I can take a shot of that tomorrow, did not cut the cord but would be interested to hear what the reasoning for that is.

My ballasts are under the tank attached to an upper portion of the stand build.

KurtsReef · 11/16/2007, 06:03 PM

OK, got a call and now know that the distance the electricity has to travel in order to start the MH bulbs can put a big strain on the ballasts...which is the reason to cut at least a foot off the cords.

I can cut more than that, so may as well do it...something to do tomorrow morning

hyperfocal · 11/16/2007, 06:10 PM

Who told you that you had to cut the ballast cables down to a foot? That's completely false, at least from an electrical point of view (maybe they didn't want you tripping over long loops of cable on the floor..?)

bubbletip2 · 11/16/2007, 06:25 PM

Alright,

The recommendation from the manufacturer is to keep the total length of the cable around 8 - 9 ft in order to reduce signal loss when the ballast fires up the bulb initially. The manufacturer has found that a 16ft total cable length can make it difficult for the ballast to fire the bulb properly.

When I installed my ballasts, I cut my mogul socket down to a foot and connected my ballast cable giving me about 8-9 ft.

Please don't cut your entire cable length to a foot

Just Jim · 11/16/2007, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Just Jim
cool, any pics of the ballast positioning? I was told to cut the white cord that came with it down to 1'. So I'm not going to have a lot of slack to run into my "fish room".

This is exactly why I seldomly give advice. I leave parts of things out. I'm only cutting my total cable length down to 8' as stated....

Just Jim · 11/16/2007, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JRaquatics
You can mount them by a 2x6 or 1x4. then hang the board with eyescrews. to hang the board you can use the dropceiling hangers with aviation cable or decorative chain.

Do you use pressure treated wood? It's going to be inside the canopy, so I don't care how it looks, but I'm concerned there may be some sort of chemical sepage?

speedstar · 11/16/2007, 09:08 PM

I run M135 ballast that are 20ft from the bulb and have no problems ever with bulb fire.

KurtsReef · 11/16/2007, 09:34 PM

Yes, the suggestion was to cut a foot off the cable...not cut the cable to 1 foot. I have a lot of excess so it will not be a big deal to take some out, if it helps the ballasts last longer its no skin off my fingers.

bubbletip2 · 11/17/2007, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by speedstar
I run M135 ballast that are 20ft from the bulb and have no problems ever with bulb fire.

The recommendation was for a CV ballast and bulb combination. Every manufacturer may have their own optimal installation requirment. Magnetics are much different than electronic ballasts in the way they fire the bulb.

This thread really needs to get back on track to talk about reflectors...

bubbletip2 · 11/17/2007, 10:59 PM

I was over at Mike's today with Jeremy - JRAquatics taking pics and measurements of Mike's tank. Mike's LumenBrights are set up so the bulbs are 14" from the surface of the water. I thought the measurments would be no surprise at this point seeing everyone elses 400w 12K Reeflux measurements. It was preety surprising to see that he is showing 399 on the bottom of a 30" tank on the front glass. Another shocking measurement was the 1863 1" above the surface of the water which is actually 16" from the bulb in the measurement because the sump return pump was off and dropped the water 2 inches.

I think many here will be surprised to see this beautiful Blue mille showing a PAR value of 1212. This blue mille was half the size two months ago when it was transplated in this spot when the tank was reaquascaped. Believe me when I say this picture doesn't do it any justice.

This stunt should only be done by trained professionals. Please don't try this at home!

And here is the left 3 reflectors tank shot:

Some really interesting numbers. 399 on the bottom front glass of a 30" deep tank. Like I said before, the possibilities are there for 36" and 48" deep tanks with these reflectors.

And most surprising is the red mille at 840 measured 8 inches under the surface of the water and especially under a 1" acrylic crusty brace that is pretty wide. Mike clean that thing off man. Just kidding. Mike actually brought up that this is a good way to acclimate coral under the brace. Great idea, Mike! We really should have measured after cleaning it off, to see what it showed.

And last a measurement taken in between the Red Acro on top the middle pillar.

Well, I think there is enough here to show that 400w 12K Reeflux bulbs, LumenBright Reflectors, Coralvue ballasts are a great combo which can certainly grow coral to the point that it is noticeable every two weeks and colors that will blow you away. I want to see what the 250's can do with these reflectors. We'll have to see soon...

Poppy828 · 11/17/2007, 11:07 PM

Jim,

I am picking my reflectors up tomorrow from Mike. Feel free to bring that meter over and test mine.

I have sme work to do on my tank, and this will be a great start for me.

Todd

rickyb · 11/18/2007, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bubbletip2

The recommendation from the manufacturer is to keep the total length of the cable around 8 - 9 ft in order to reduce signal loss when the ballast fires up the bulb initially. The manufacturer has found that a 16ft total cable length can make it difficult for the ballast to fire the bulb properly.

It would make more sence if the manufacturer makes the lenght of the ballast cable according to their own especifications. If they know this already why are they selling it with the extra lenght?

Great job guys! Thank you for sharing.

drudude · 11/18/2007, 09:15 AM

Is the color in the pictures what it actully looks like ITS AMAZING. the 12k reeflux color is amazing. Is it the same for 250w? im looking at the 175w iswaki bulbs right now but i think i like the color of the 12k reeflux more.

bubbletip2 · 11/18/2007, 09:21 AM

Which pictures are you refering to drudude? If it is the blue mille shot than that picture does not do it any justice. The full tank shots I have tried my best to get it to look like it does in person.

If you are interested in the look of these bulbs check out the September TOTM and you will see a really good representation of what these bulbs can do.

drudude · 11/18/2007, 09:33 AM

Morning bubbletip2,

Ya i was talking about mikes tank (sept TOTM), the color pops, i cant belive how good it looks. I would love to get that kinda color, as you know i was going for the 175w, but i might have to go with 250w for the color, and sarifice a few dollars on the electricity side. As long as the color is the same as the 400wers.

bubbletip2 · 11/18/2007, 09:58 AM

You should see it in person.

You know I think there is something to say about the blue background on Mike's tank. For some reason it seems the blue background may cancel some of the blue light out in some way when viewing the tank causing the bulbs to look so natural - like swimming in the ocean on a sunny day. On my tank with a black background it seems the blue light is a little more visual but still a great look none the less. Definitely not as blue as some 14K bulbs. The camera seems to like the look in Mike's tank

Hopefully that helps. I know electricity is expensive down there. Consider the 250's drudude and maybe run them for less time like 6-8 hours and your coral should get the light they need for photosynthesis. You could run some "good" led's as your lights prior to and after the MH's to save on electricity and so you can view your tank longer.

drudude · 11/18/2007, 11:21 AM

how about an reeflux 12k 175? have you seen wha tthat looks like?

Just Jim · 11/18/2007, 12:31 PM

I just got my lights up and all I can say is WOW

They're everything stated and then some. I had 20k xms before and they were too blue, and then I've been with xm 10k for a while, now I have the 12k reflux bulbs and the colors really pop. The light seems to travel deeper into my tank then my old setup did as well. Money well spent...

Anybody looking for a good deal on these lights should talk to Mike (acropora nut), I've been very pleased with all the help and advice he gave me on the setup I purchased from him.

http://www.reefspecialty.com/

JRaquatics · 11/18/2007, 01:38 PM

Like Jim stated these lighting combo throw a good punch. I was even suprised at the numbers we were getting. I also noticed when I was there was the massive growth rates Mikes corals arre getting. He stated it is due to the Reeflux bulbs. And now he states that he is gaining even better growth and coloration with the new LumenBright reflectors. I couldn't agree with him more. I can't wait to get the par reading from my tank with the 250s.

BTW it was good meeting you Jim.

bubbletip2 · 11/18/2007, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by drudude
how about an reeflux 12k 175? have you seen wha tthat looks like?

Drdude,

I honestly have never seen the 175 watters in person. Mike from Reef Specialty might be able to help you out. I would like to hear what you decide.

drudude · 11/18/2007, 01:45 PM

bubbletip,
Im going to be doing a build thread in the large tank section. Im just doing a lot of reserch. i just found a thread with the 175W Iswasaki they look fantasic but i dont think they make the color pop like the 12k reeflux so thats the way im starting to sway. ofcourse there is the heat issue aswell. Im really trying to stay away from a chiller and the 175w Iswasaki with icecap ballast is looking like a winner.

OHHH THE DESISIONSSSSSS!!!!!!

bubbletip2 · 11/18/2007, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rickyb
It would make more sence if the manufacturer makes the lenght of the ballast cable according to their own especifications. If they know this already why are they selling it with the extra lenght?

Great job guys! Thank you for sharing.

Hey Rickyb,

It actually would not make sense for the manufacturer to cut the ballast cord because the ballast cord would be a lot more expensive to replace than a mogul socket. The mogul socket for LumenBrights can be used on any ballast, so it would be unfair to customers that want to use LumenBrights with other ballast/bulb combinations to cut them short. I don't see why you would want to use another ballas/bulb combination. JJ LOL!

11/16/2007, 05:30 PM	#278
Just Jim Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: berks county PA Posts: 1,660	cool, any pics of the ballast positioning? I was told to cut the white cord that came with it down to 1'. So I'm not going to have a lot of slack to run into my "fish room". __________________ Big tanks are only big to people who don't have them. Current Tank Info: 240g Double sided DT, 45g sump, 55g fuge, and now a 150g new reef

11/16/2007, 06:10 PM	#281
hyperfocal Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Edge of oblivion Posts: 1,708	Who told you that you had to cut the ballast cables down to a foot? That's completely false, at least from an electrical point of view (maybe they didn't want you tripping over long loops of cable on the floor..?) __________________ "Froth at the top, dregs at bottom, but the middle excellent." -- Voltaire Current Tank Info: getting back into the hobby

11/16/2007, 06:25 PM	#282
bubbletip2 Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 736	Alright, The recommendation from the manufacturer is to keep the total length of the cable around 8 - 9 ft in order to reduce signal loss when the ballast fires up the bulb initially. The manufacturer has found that a 16ft total cable length can make it difficult for the ballast to fire the bulb properly. When I installed my ballasts, I cut my mogul socket down to a foot and connected my ballast cable giving me about 8-9 ft. Please don't cut your entire cable length to a foot __________________ 3-250W 12K Reeflux-CV Bllsts-3 Mini LB's,2 54w T5's,Advncd. ballast,2 - VTech MP40Ws,Reeflo Dart & Orca 200,Eshopps 37gsump, Ltrmtr + 1 - top off/alk-ca,RK 2 & AC JR,2 TLF Phosban Rctors,4 Orion fans Current Tank Info: 156G Oceanic SPS Dominant Reef System(L60.5 x W24.5 x H25) - 30g Cube plmbed into DT - 1 LG LB Pndt. - 250w EVC 14K(EVC Ballast) - Panworld(790gph feed)

11/17/2007, 10:59 PM	#288
bubbletip2 Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 736	I was over at Mike's today with Jeremy - JRAquatics taking pics and measurements of Mike's tank. Mike's LumenBrights are set up so the bulbs are 14" from the surface of the water. I thought the measurments would be no surprise at this point seeing everyone elses 400w 12K Reeflux measurements. It was preety surprising to see that he is showing 399 on the bottom of a 30" tank on the front glass. Another shocking measurement was the 1863 1" above the surface of the water which is actually 16" from the bulb in the measurement because the sump return pump was off and dropped the water 2 inches. I think many here will be surprised to see this beautiful Blue mille showing a PAR value of 1212. This blue mille was half the size two months ago when it was transplated in this spot when the tank was reaquascaped. Believe me when I say this picture doesn't do it any justice. This stunt should only be done by trained professionals. Please don't try this at home! And here is the left 3 reflectors tank shot: Some really interesting numbers. 399 on the bottom front glass of a 30" deep tank. Like I said before, the possibilities are there for 36" and 48" deep tanks with these reflectors. And most surprising is the red mille at 840 measured 8 inches under the surface of the water and especially under a 1" acrylic crusty brace that is pretty wide. Mike clean that thing off man. Just kidding. Mike actually brought up that this is a good way to acclimate coral under the brace. Great idea, Mike! We really should have measured after cleaning it off, to see what it showed. And last a measurement taken in between the Red Acro on top the middle pillar. Well, I think there is enough here to show that 400w 12K Reeflux bulbs, LumenBright Reflectors, Coralvue ballasts are a great combo which can certainly grow coral to the point that it is noticeable every two weeks and colors that will blow you away. I want to see what the 250's can do with these reflectors. We'll have to see soon... __________________ 3-250W 12K Reeflux-CV Bllsts-3 Mini LB's,2 54w T5's,Advncd. ballast,2 - VTech MP40Ws,Reeflo Dart & Orca 200,Eshopps 37gsump, Ltrmtr + 1 - top off/alk-ca,RK 2 & AC JR,2 TLF Phosban Rctors,4 Orion fans Current Tank Info: 156G Oceanic SPS Dominant Reef System(L60.5 x W24.5 x H25) - 30g Cube plmbed into DT - 1 LG LB Pndt. - 250w EVC 14K(EVC Ballast) - Panworld(790gph feed)

11/18/2007, 09:21 AM	#292
bubbletip2 Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 736	Which pictures are you refering to drudude? If it is the blue mille shot than that picture does not do it any justice. The full tank shots I have tried my best to get it to look like it does in person. If you are interested in the look of these bulbs check out the September TOTM and you will see a really good representation of what these bulbs can do. __________________ 3-250W 12K Reeflux-CV Bllsts-3 Mini LB's,2 54w T5's,Advncd. ballast,2 - VTech MP40Ws,Reeflo Dart & Orca 200,Eshopps 37gsump, Ltrmtr + 1 - top off/alk-ca,RK 2 & AC JR,2 TLF Phosban Rctors,4 Orion fans Current Tank Info: 156G Oceanic SPS Dominant Reef System(L60.5 x W24.5 x H25) - 30g Cube plmbed into DT - 1 LG LB Pndt. - 250w EVC 14K(EVC Ballast) - Panworld(790gph feed)

11/16/2007, 05:23 PM	#277
KurtsReef Premium Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Boston, NY Posts: 2,603	OK, by no means scientific but after the outer lights went out decided to take a shot of the tank for this thread. My wife was in the kitchen to the right with the lights on and refused to turn them off...like you have to see when doing dishes or something...anyway so the ambient light is kind of killing what I was trying to do on that side and show the angle of light...but took an underexposed shot to see where the light was very strong... Had the kids hold up a measuring tape so that I could say for sure instead of guessing 4 feet and marked the 2', 3', 4' and 4'6" markings on the tape a bit larger so that you can read them. I think from looking at this I need to level the reflectors this one seems to be angled a bit...but bottom of reflectors are 5 and 1/2" above the top of the tank making the bulbs about 14-16 inches above the water. I feel that there would be some pretty decent PAR readings around 1'4" over to 5'6" but the light is very strong from the 2' to 4' 9" area, this photograph is a very dark representation of how it really looks (take a look at the center light it would be blown out white if I had exposed longer but wanted to get the very strong light area so under exposed)

11/16/2007, 05:39 PM	#279
KurtsReef Premium Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Boston, NY Posts: 2,603	I can take a shot of that tomorrow, did not cut the cord but would be interested to hear what the reasoning for that is. My ballasts are under the tank attached to an upper portion of the stand build.

11/16/2007, 06:03 PM	#280
KurtsReef Premium Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Boston, NY Posts: 2,603	OK, got a call and now know that the distance the electricity has to travel in order to start the MH bulbs can put a big strain on the ballasts...which is the reason to cut at least a foot off the cords. I can cut more than that, so may as well do it...something to do tomorrow morning

11/16/2007, 09:08 PM	#285
speedstar Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,150	I run M135 ballast that are 20ft from the bulb and have no problems ever with bulb fire.

11/16/2007, 09:34 PM	#286
KurtsReef Premium Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: North Boston, NY Posts: 2,603	Yes, the suggestion was to cut a foot off the cable...not cut the cable to 1 foot. I have a lot of excess so it will not be a big deal to take some out, if it helps the ballasts last longer its no skin off my fingers.

11/17/2007, 11:07 PM	#289
Poppy828 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Midwest Posts: 2,026	Jim, I am picking my reflectors up tomorrow from Mike. Feel free to bring that meter over and test mine. I have sme work to do on my tank, and this will be a great start for me. Todd

11/18/2007, 09:15 AM	#291
drudude Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Tropical Island Posts: 114	Is the color in the pictures what it actully looks like ITS AMAZING. the 12k reeflux color is amazing. Is it the same for 250w? im looking at the 175w iswaki bulbs right now but i think i like the color of the 12k reeflux more.

11/18/2007, 09:33 AM	#293
drudude Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Tropical Island Posts: 114	Morning bubbletip2, Ya i was talking about mikes tank (sept TOTM), the color pops, i cant belive how good it looks. I would love to get that kinda color, as you know i was going for the 175w, but i might have to go with 250w for the color, and sarifice a few dollars on the electricity side. As long as the color is the same as the 400wers.

11/18/2007, 09:58 AM	#294
bubbletip2 Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 736	You should see it in person. You know I think there is something to say about the blue background on Mike's tank. For some reason it seems the blue background may cancel some of the blue light out in some way when viewing the tank causing the bulbs to look so natural - like swimming in the ocean on a sunny day. On my tank with a black background it seems the blue light is a little more visual but still a great look none the less. Definitely not as blue as some 14K bulbs. The camera seems to like the look in Mike's tank Hopefully that helps. I know electricity is expensive down there. Consider the 250's drudude and maybe run them for less time like 6-8 hours and your coral should get the light they need for photosynthesis. You could run some "good" led's as your lights prior to and after the MH's to save on electricity and so you can view your tank longer. __________________ 3-250W 12K Reeflux-CV Bllsts-3 Mini LB's,2 54w T5's,Advncd. ballast,2 - VTech MP40Ws,Reeflo Dart & Orca 200,Eshopps 37gsump, Ltrmtr + 1 - top off/alk-ca,RK 2 & AC JR,2 TLF Phosban Rctors,4 Orion fans Current Tank Info: 156G Oceanic SPS Dominant Reef System(L60.5 x W24.5 x H25) - 30g Cube plmbed into DT - 1 LG LB Pndt. - 250w EVC 14K(EVC Ballast) - Panworld(790gph feed)

11/18/2007, 11:21 AM	#295
drudude Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Tropical Island Posts: 114	how about an reeflux 12k 175? have you seen wha tthat looks like?

11/18/2007, 12:31 PM	#296
Just Jim Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: berks county PA Posts: 1,660	I just got my lights up and all I can say is WOW They're everything stated and then some. I had 20k xms before and they were too blue, and then I've been with xm 10k for a while, now I have the 12k reflux bulbs and the colors really pop. The light seems to travel deeper into my tank then my old setup did as well. Money well spent... Anybody looking for a good deal on these lights should talk to Mike (acropora nut), I've been very pleased with all the help and advice he gave me on the setup I purchased from him. http://www.reefspecialty.com/ __________________ Big tanks are only big to people who don't have them. Current Tank Info: 240g Double sided DT, 45g sump, 55g fuge, and now a 150g new reef

11/18/2007, 01:38 PM	#297
JRaquatics Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: On RC Posts: 3,609	Like Jim stated these lighting combo throw a good punch. I was even suprised at the numbers we were getting. I also noticed when I was there was the massive growth rates Mikes corals arre getting. He stated it is due to the Reeflux bulbs. And now he states that he is gaining even better growth and coloration with the new LumenBright reflectors. I couldn't agree with him more. I can't wait to get the par reading from my tank with the 250s. BTW it was good meeting you Jim.

11/18/2007, 01:45 PM	#299
drudude Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Tropical Island Posts: 114	bubbletip, Im going to be doing a build thread in the large tank section. Im just doing a lot of reserch. i just found a thread with the 175W Iswasaki they look fantasic but i dont think they make the color pop like the 12k reeflux so thats the way im starting to sway. ofcourse there is the heat issue aswell. Im really trying to stay away from a chiller and the 175w Iswasaki with icecap ballast is looking like a winner. OHHH THE DESISIONSSSSSS!!!!!!