New Lumen Bright Reflector. ... any info on them

[laud]

Originally posted by bubbletip2
As far as wanting to place them minimally 15" and preferrably 12" - do you mean bulb to surface or bottom of the reflector to the surface?

Yes, that would be the distance between the bottom of the reflector to the water.

[Gomer]

Since the reflector is so high, and the SE bulbs don't need UV shielding, do people use the glass shield on the finished pendants? I would think not using it would reduce reflection losses and keep the unit a bit cooler.

[glxtrix]

I run mine 12" from the water surface to the bulb. However I'm also running 175's.

[laud]

I've got an open top and open back. I will still install fans to dissipate the heat. Will the light spread lose its worth if it is lower than 16"?

[bubbletip2]

Originally posted by laud
I've got an open top and open back. I will still install fans to dissipate the heat. Will the light spread lose its worth if it is lower than 16"?

If you can get the minis up 16" from bulb to water or 12" from bottom of the reflector to the water, you will have plenty of spread in your tank especially if you are running a reflector every 2 feet on your 6foot tank.

[melev]

The distance from the bottom of the reflector to the bulb within (in a large LB) is 4". I saw that question come up a few times, so I wanted to answer that.

I chose to put glass in mine because I wanted the reflector and bulb to stay clean. Both cost too much to have to be cleaning or replacing them. It is easier to clean the glass than the facets of the reflector.

[Flatlander]

Thanks Marc

[martinphillip03]

Originally posted by melev
The distance from the bottom of the reflector to the bulb within (in a large LB) is 4". I saw that question come up a few times, so I wanted to answer that.

I chose to put glass in mine because I wanted the reflector and bulb to stay clean. Both cost too much to have to be cleaning or replacing them. It is easier to clean the glass than the facets of the reflector.

Marc, Your whole reflector/pendent is covered in glass?

Marty

[laud]

Originally posted by melev
I chose to put glass in mine because I wanted the reflector and bulb to stay clean. Both cost too much to have to be cleaning or replacing them. It is easier to clean the glass than the facets of the reflector.

How much "par" (I think that is what I mean) do you lose with a glass shield? And how do you get a glass shield in that shape? Or do you cover the whole top, and with what type of glass?

Thanks,
Michael

[IRISSERVICE]

any glass guys here that can make us glass for these fixtures out of starphire?

[melev]

Originally posted by martinphillip03
Marc, Your whole reflector/pendent is covered in glass?

Marty

Yes, it is covered with glass.





Based on the PAR readings I got with my new LB, I don't have any concerns about the glass blocking any light, as long as it remains clean.

I remember when I talked about upgrading my lighting about a year ago, I was told that would be a big mistake for me to put glass between the bulb and the water, but here's my reasoning at that time:

The Luminarc reflectors were supposed to provide 300% better light than spider reflectors. If I lost 10% (or more) to the glass, I would still be well over 290% (or less) better light than what I had before. I might have a slight drop off, but keeping the reflectors and bulbs clean was more important to me.

When I did my series of tests, I measured the light with:
spider reflectors with old bulbs,
spider reflectors with new bulbs,
spider reflectors with new bulbs and a sheet of 1/4" glass beneath,
and spider reflectors with new bulbs with a sheet of 1/4" acrylic beneath.

All those measurements were recorded and posted on a page on my site.

Then I measured the PAR output of the new Luminbrite reflectors using:
used bulbs
new bulbs
10,000K bulbs
12,000K bulbs

Due to the hassle factor of removing the glass, I decided not to remove it to see how much more PAR I'd get. I doubt it is Starfire glass, but it definitely is tempered or it would have cracked / shattered within 20 minutes or less.

FYI, I was going to buy Starfire glass from a local glass shop, and I wanted it tempered. It was going to cost me $180 for three pieces 20 x 20, and I would have had to figure out a way to secure them beneath each reflector. When I saw that ReefSpecialty.com had them with the glass built in, I opted to just buy them like that because they looked so much better.

If you are interested in seeing all the PAR numbers, it won't be hard to find the page on my site, as I've posted a link to that page in four different places there.

[IRISSERVICE]

maybe we can do a group buy and get the hexagon starphire glass made

[Gomer]

The optical absorption loss from normal float glass to starfire through 1/8" of glass is virtually trivial.

The major losses with glass are actually Fresnel reflections, but part of that gets re-captured by the reflector. That loss isn't going to be solved at all by glass (the loss is due to angle and index of refraction of the "window" and nothing else)

[IRISSERVICE]

i hear ya...i was thinking no tint..clearer and way cooler
also think its thicker than 1/8"

[Gomer]

Originally posted by IRISSERVICE
i hear ya...i was thinking no tint..clearer and way cooler
also think its thicker than 1/8"

Clearer--you won't be able to tell in a double blind test.
Ticker--1/2" and it is still the same deal.
Cooler--bragging rights...ya, definitely cooler :-D

[gigiba]

I want to upgrade my light setup and I am looking into the Lumen Bright reflector. Which one should I get?
Tank info:

92Lx27Wx24H w/ 2" to 3" sand. Mix reef-mostly SPS

I am looking into Icecap and CV 250W ballasts.

I went on CV web site and they don't recommend their ballast on a GFCI outlet. This is a big problem for me since all the outlets that are using by the tank are GFCI. Does Icecap ballast has the same issue with GFCI?

[laud]

Originally posted by gigiba
I went on CV web site and they don't recommend their ballast on a GFCI outlet. This is a big problem for me since all the outlets that are using by the tank are GFCI. Does Icecap ballast has the same issue with GFCI?

That concerned me as well. My whole electrical setup has GFCI's at the main panel. Is this an obstacle or a wall?

[bubbletip2]

Originally posted by melev
Right! /cracking the whip/

Be sure to check your SENT box as well. And look at your INBOX 'from the beginning' to make sure you've eliminated all the PMs you don't need any longer.

Sorry Marc,

Had to do it. I figured out how to post the video. It did not take too much of my time though Marc, I promise.

This is a video I took of Acropora Nut's tank(Mike Leonard) last weekend. You get a really good idea of how massive the tank, coral, and fish are.

[JRaquatics]

But I couldn't tell if Mike was feeding or fishing.

That was cool. I noticed a few no-shows during feeding time, must of been camera shy. The colors seam a little off in the video. Was this do to the camera, from compressing the file or from his super bright lighting?

[bubbletip2]

Originally posted by JRaquatics
But I couldn't tell if Mike was feeding or fishing.

That was cool. I noticed a few no-shows during feeding time, must of been camera shy. The colors seam a little off in the video. Was this do to the camera, from compressing the file or from his super bright lighting?

I actually white balanced off the sand which was probably not the most accurate white balance. You should know as anyone else how hard it is to get accurate color under intense metal halide lighting especially right out of the camera or camcorder in this situation. I just imported the file straight out of the camera as I am still learning Final Cut Express and am ignorant to all of its tools right now. Also Mike had his lights turned down so they were definitely bluer than your typical Sunny Day 12K Reeflux that we have seen from this tank.

[melev]

That was a great video. I think he needs to add a few tangs.

So Mike isn't worried about getting sliced by a tang's scalpel such as the one from the Sohal?

[bubbletip2]

Originally posted by melev
That was a great video. I think he needs to add a few tangs.

So Mike isn't worried about getting sliced by a tang's scalpel such as the one from the Sohal?

Thanks Marc! I think he still has room for a Vlamingi Tang and maybe even a pair of crosshatch triggers

Yeah Mike, aren't you afraid of the viscious spork?

I posted another short clip of Mike's checkerboard wrasse:

[naprestsleep]

I have a 92G corner(34Lx36Wx25D) and I want to transition it from FOWLR. I am a newbie so its going to be hardy items, probably some Mushroom, Polyp and maybe some soft corals.
The tanks is open top without a canopy so I will be going the pendant route. Light spillage is an issue too because the tank is in the living room and I know the significant other will complain if there too much light spillage.
I want the LumenBright with Coralvue Ballast and SE reflux 12K bulb

Here are the questions.
1) will 250w be enough for the above specs? or should I go 400w? is a 400w dimmable worth it so I can "expand" the light offering if I ever add coral with more light needs?

2) which pendant? I measured the tank, and made templates of the two size pendants and they both fit. The mini has about a minimum of 5 inches to the edge of the glass, the large pendant has minimum of 3 inches? I plan to run the light as low as possible and if I can I will put the glass on the pendant to protect it(and keep the reflector cleaner)

Your advise and help is appreciated, any question or clarification please ask.
Joe

[gigiba]

Originally posted by gigiba
I want to upgrade my light setup and I am looking into the Lumen Bright reflector. Which one should I get?
Tank info:

92Lx27Wx24H w/ 2" to 3" sand. Mix reef-mostly SPS

I am looking into Icecap and CV 250W ballasts.

I went on CV web site and they don't recommend their ballast on a GFCI outlet. This is a big problem for me since all the outlets that are using by the tank are GFCI. Does Icecap ballast has the same issue with GFCI?

anyone?

[laud]

I emailed them about the GFCI question. They replied, "Not all GFCI's will give you problems, it is normally the cheap ones thatgive people problems. Sounds like you have a home that was properly wired with good quality GFCI's so do not worry about having any problems."

p.s., they were extremely responsive to ALL my questions, and there were quite a few. LOL