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View Poll Results: Which eats hair algae better?
Blue leg hermit crabs 3 6.00%
Astrea/Turbo snails 18 36.00%
Both together 6 12.00%
Something else (Don't include sea hares or blennies) 23 46.00%
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 06/26/2008, 02:05 PM   #1
MMM33732
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Which eats hair algae better??

Which eats hair algae better, blue leg hermits or astrea/turbo snails? I know what the root causes are of hair algae, but I need to get rid of what I currently have by other means than by more manual removal as its not possible in many areas.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 02:15 PM   #2
IFbettas
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Astrea snails don't eat hair algea at all. They only eat diatoms and other algea like that.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 02:16 PM   #3
NJGirlinPhx
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Our turbos go to town on the hair algae...it's amazing how much they mow down in a day.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 02:19 PM   #4
Slakker
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I checked something else because I couldn't find the box for improved filtration/husbandry


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Unread 06/26/2008, 02:23 PM   #5
hwttdz
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This question may be confusing as turbo snail refers to at least three different species of snails.

Turbo fluctuosa - mexican turbo
Trochus (various)
Astrea tecta

Coincidentally I'm also interested because I just have way too much hair algae. I can't vote because I clearly don't know.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 03:25 PM   #6
CyanoMagnet
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Elevate magnesium levels to 1550 , that will kill hair algae.


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11/27/2008

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Unread 06/26/2008, 04:01 PM   #7
sabbath
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slakker
I checked something else because I couldn't find the box for improved filtration/husbandry
+1


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Unread 06/26/2008, 04:04 PM   #8
xJake
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Quote:
Originally posted by CyanoMagnet
Elevate magnesium levels to 1550 , that will kill hair algae.
I thought that was for bryopsis.

I just try to keep my clean-up crew as diverse as possible and I don't have any algae problems. However, I do always see my mexican turbos mowing down any patches of algae that may pop up.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 04:55 PM   #9
MMM33732
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Quote:
Originally posted by CyanoMagnet
Elevate magnesium levels to 1550 , that will kill hair algae.
Nope. I tried that. And it worked for the bryopsis for the most part though as it was suppose to.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 05:16 PM   #10
seapug
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deal with your phosphate and the hair algae will go away. If your tank is large enough, a Tang can be a huge help, too.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 05:52 PM   #11
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Seconds that on phosphate removal.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:00 PM   #12
IFbettas
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I agree with getting a tang if you have the space and removing phosphate.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:24 PM   #13
MMM33732
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I know about phosphate removal and all that is necessary, but I need to get rid of what I currently have. I assumed it would die off by now but hasn't my phosphates and nitrates both test at 0. I know they must not be since the algae is still there, but its not growing at all, so it may be. Its just not going away. I have a fuge with chaeto as well as 2 phosphate reactors running GFO. I feed a small amount every other day and have for a long time now. Only thing I can think of is the rocks perhaps leaching stored phosphate. Like I said, its not growing, its just not dying. So I need to find something to remove what I have, hence the poll asking what will eat it better, not what will stop it.

On that tang note, I currently have a yellow tang who doesn't touch it. Also had a lownmower blenny who never touched it as well as currently have 2 sea hares, one small and one large. They Don't really seem to eat it either. They seem more interested in film algae for some reason.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:27 PM   #14
Gary Majchrzak
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why not consider a sea hare or a blenny?


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:29 PM   #15
MMM33732
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Majchrzak
why not consider a sea hare or a blenny?
^One post up. I was adding that part while you replied.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:30 PM   #16
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Tagging along for the ride, I am in the same boat... I am running 3 TLF with po4 remover what I have is not going away...


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:30 PM   #17
Gary Majchrzak
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what size is the aquarium?


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:31 PM   #18
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Turn the lights of for a couple of days and see what happens.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:34 PM   #19
MMM33732
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Quote:
Originally posted by nickts40
Turn the lights of for a couple of days and see what happens.
Tried that twice with no success. Also just switched to 20k halides from my 14s in hopes of diverting even farther from its preferred spectrum.

Tank is currently a 55. I Know, I know, tang police, but I have a 125 that'll be in the works very very soon.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:37 PM   #20
Gary Majchrzak
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have you tried running a PO4 adsorber?

you use RO water, right?


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:48 PM   #21
MMM33732
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I run 2 phosban reactors with GFO in them as well as chaeto in the fuge. I only use RODi water (currently been testing a TDS of 2 on the output line) However, I also have a media bag of GFO in my RODI water storage container as well just in case theres some phosphate in those 2ppm. That media bag in the storage container was a somewhat recent addition though about 4 weeks ago, so before that there may have been a minute amount of phosphate entering via the RODI water.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 06:53 PM   #22
Tang Salad
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Your RODI should read zero for TDS. It may be time to change the DI resin.

If you can get your PO4 and Nitrate levels low enough, and keep them low enough for long enough, the algae will turn white and fall off on its own. This is by far the best way to deal with the problem. Any animal that eats it will just return the nutrients to the water to start it growing again.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 07:00 PM   #23
MMM33732
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tang Salad
Your RODI should read zero for TDS. It may be time to change the DI resin.

If you can get your PO4 and Nitrate levels low enough, and keep them low enough for long enough, the algae will turn white and fall off on its own. This is by far the best way to deal with the problem. Any animal that eats it will just return the nutrients to the water to start it growing again.
Odd thing is my TDS was reading 5, so I switched out the DI resin and then they spiked to like 30 for a little while then dropped to 2. Nitrates and phosphates have read 0 for a while now and its still there.. Not growing, not dying...just there. I'm not too worried about the nutrients returning to the water since I think the GFO, chaeto, and sulfur denitrator will take care of them pretty quick. My issue is simply removing it since it won't die.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 07:08 PM   #24
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emerald crabs. but fix the phosphate problem too, that is most important.


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Unread 06/26/2008, 07:19 PM   #25
Tang Salad
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Quote:
Originally posted by MMM33732
My issue is simply removing it since it won't die.
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but it WILL die when you get your P and N low enough. It will turn white, then turn slimy and disintegrate. Your skimmer will provode the final blow by removing the dead stuff.

Forget the P test's reading, they are notoriously inaccurate. If the algae isn't dying, then your P is not at zero.


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