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09/01/2008, 10:15 AM | #251 |
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new aquascape
Seriously need a better camera
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09/01/2008, 01:05 PM | #252 |
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unbreakable, I can see why your brain coral is your favorite. How many hammer coral colonies is in there? Each one looks a different shade or are some frogspawn?
The lr in the 75 is very gnarled.
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09/01/2008, 01:11 PM | #253 |
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theyre all the same color its just that the camera phone doesnt pick up too well on anything. theyre green tentacles with pinkish tips. they all came from the same color. the colony was taking up too much room so i just fragged them. the brain coral a tan base with green stripes
the candycane started off with 3 heads and the heads just kept splitting, now theyre at 8 heads. they slowed down the splitting since i stopped feeding the lr in the 75g appear to mostly from SPS skeletons. i actually like it a lot
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09/01/2008, 01:20 PM | #254 |
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Is candycane and trumpet coral the same thing?
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09/01/2008, 01:35 PM | #255 |
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09/01/2008, 05:51 PM | #256 |
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Those prices at fraggle reef are so good! I can't believe it.
What is the minimum order and S&H?
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09/01/2008, 07:17 PM | #257 |
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Shipping is 34 I think and I don't think there is a minimum not sure though
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09/01/2008, 10:02 PM | #258 |
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Just my tank log thought to show.
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09/02/2008, 12:21 PM | #259 |
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How is the logbook arranged inside?
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09/02/2008, 09:16 PM | #260 |
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Each page has four major sections of the following:
1. Livestock History 2. Propagation & Breeding 3. Water Quality & Additives 4. General Observation & Equipment Notes The problem is that you have to be dedicated to entering data or the thing is worthless.
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09/02/2008, 09:46 PM | #261 |
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My viper light gets so hot so I decided to drill a hole into the hood through the top to let heat out. I took it apart, drilled a small pilot hole, and then a bigger hole. When I put it back together, the lamp wouldn't fire-up. It fired up on three previous ocausions and juice is now getting to the ballast as the ballast light goes on. I checked the lamp seating twice. Could drilling a hole into it have caused anything?
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09/02/2008, 09:49 PM | #262 |
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Could I have caused it to ground out with the hole somehow?
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09/03/2008, 09:20 AM | #263 |
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if you took everything apart before drilling i dont see how it could have happened, but i dont know much about wiring. are you sure everything is put back together properly?
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09/03/2008, 09:36 AM | #264 |
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I can't see the problem.... make sure again, and again, that all connectors on the bulb are touching correctly. I've had this be the problem in the past.
That viper reflector doesn't seem so efficient... I mean, good enough for most applications, but not great. I had never seen them inside before.
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09/03/2008, 07:00 PM | #265 |
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Ok there's little pins inside the sockets that I didn't have seated properly. The thing fires up now.
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09/05/2008, 07:17 AM | #267 |
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You have a good job cherubfi. I read all of your posts. You have brilliant idea. But i have a suggestion for you. Please don't put a tang fishs in your aquarium. I wait your new tank pic.
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The World is Yours!!! (like TONY MONTANA) Current Tank Info: 45*40*48 |
09/05/2008, 10:25 PM | #268 |
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s.erel, thanks for the comments.
Dug some stuff out of storage. Ground fault circuit interupter (GFCI), Tsunami ATO, and grounding probe. The hole in the light is dissipating a lot of heat. Next project: paint bottom of tank.
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09/06/2008, 08:54 PM | #269 |
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The ammonia test is on the right. As you can see I'm having a terrible ammonia spike. The test on the left is for nitrIte. No problems here yet.
I'm using an ammonia neutralizer to bring down the spike, but only when it's very high. The book I'm reading now suggests to use chemicals instead of w/c, but just during cycling. This is because the various species of bacteria that are populating the filter need these surges to get established properly.
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09/06/2008, 09:48 PM | #270 |
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hm ive never used any chemicals or water changes and thats because ive had ammonia get up to 2.0-4.0 on the chart. i always just let it do its own thing
whats going to be imporant is you running filter pads or maybe even adding live rock rubble along with bio balls so the bacteria will get established. for some reason in my qt i couldnt get bacteria to establish on the bio balls but once i added the live rock rubble the ammonia went down. now im just waiting for my nitrite to go down and ill be done with that qt cycling are you cycling the 20g too? i recommend doing both at the same time if you can
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09/07/2008, 11:37 AM | #271 |
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I am watching the ammonia level and watching the fish for signs of stress. Mostly watching for rapid gilling and swimming at water's surface.
I am running the stock foam block as my bio-filter now. I will not add lr until ready to start switch from fresh to saltwater. I got these fish from a fresh water tank. They are a brackish water fish and can very comfortably enjoy full strength sea water. I will not start the switch until ammonia and nitrite spikes have subsided. Not starting the 20 now as qt is spacious for a few inverts and corals and don't want to waste power as well.
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09/07/2008, 11:49 AM | #272 |
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Its going to take a while to cycle. Good luck with the mollies. You can just setup the 20 and just have the return pump going. No need for the lights on
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09/07/2008, 05:29 PM | #273 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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09/07/2008, 10:44 PM | #274 |
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Here's some eggcrate that I want to use to make a fragging rack. It's holes are 1/2" x 1/2". Is this the right size?
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09/08/2008, 08:54 PM | #275 |
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Here is a moonlight mod that I'd like to do on my pendants. See page 10 of the thread linked below. I think I could just mount one to the side of one of my pendants. The led covers an area two feet by two feet.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...1#post13307921
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