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10/28/2008, 12:34 PM | #1 |
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How can I get rid of Red slime algea
I recently started noticing dark redish alge growing on some of the rock work and sand bed in my tank. It's not all over the tank but I would like to stop it before it gets worse. My water parameters seem to be fine. I do 10% water changes once a week. I only feed once a day. All my fish and corals seem to be doing great. About a month ago, I started buying distilled bottle water jugs to use as top off b/c I couldn't get to my LFS as often. Is my new source of R/O top off water the problem since I just started having this issue shortly after the switch? Should I stop purchasing this water for top off and just strictly use the R/O water from my LFS? Also, how can I remove this red slime(alge) from my tank and keep it from coming back? Thanks in advance for any tips or advice you can share.
Parameters: Nitrates: 0 Phophate: 0 Nitrites: 0 pH: 7.9 temp: 81 Calcium: 460 Alk: 7 Ammonia: 0
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Your tank looks better than you think it does.. Current Tank Info: 75g Rimless, 20g refugium, mixed reef, 2-Kessil 360x, MP40/MP10, Essence S-130, Eheim1262 |
10/28/2008, 03:50 PM | #2 |
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What kind of test kit are you using for phosphates & nitrates?
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Cliff Babcock Intestests: Digital Microscopy; Marine Pest Control; Marine Plants & Macroalgae Current Tank Info: 180 g. mixed reef system |
10/28/2008, 09:20 PM | #3 |
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Moved to New to the Hobby for more views.
The distilled water should be fine. Controlling red slime algae requires controlling the nutrient flow in the tank. The measurements are low in part because the slime is consuming the nutrients as they are released into the water column, most likely. That seems to be very common. Some common approaches to nutrients control: 1) Feeding less. 2) Better skimming. 3) Growing and harvesting a macroalga. 4) Using a GFO, like PhosBan or RowaPhos. How much food is going into the system?
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Jonathan Bertoni |
10/28/2008, 09:57 PM | #4 |
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Cyano Bacteria Has been known to be the first sign of life on earth. It has been found in Billion old fossils.
Cyano will not grow if there is a good water flow to that area. Try moving your power heads & maybe adding a power head or 2. You need to increase the water flow.
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If todays automobile had followed the same development as the computer, A Rolls Royce would cost $100.00. It would get a million miles per gallon, but it would explode once a year killing everyone inside." Current Tanks... 90 gal Reef... My awesome Office BioCube....( 180 was on hold ..no time ) ... The 180 gal has been sold...Yay..yay..yay. Hobby Experience: 19 years Reef...22 years FW |
10/28/2008, 10:07 PM | #5 |
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Also, how old is your tank? Algae outbreaks are common with new tanks for the first several months.
Increase flow, decrease feedings, siphon out as much as you can with a turkey baster, keep up with good water husbandry. I also got myself a diamond goby and he did a great job in turning over the sandbed and not letting it grow. capn hilenmyr (spelling) has a good blog/article somewhere. maybe someone smarter than me can post a link.
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HaleMoana = Home of the Ocean - Delaware Valley Reef Club - Current Tank Info: Custom Starphire 220 In Wall Wrasse Retreat |
10/28/2008, 10:26 PM | #6 |
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Cyano Bacteria....Has nothing to do with the start of a tank...or its Cycle
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If todays automobile had followed the same development as the computer, A Rolls Royce would cost $100.00. It would get a million miles per gallon, but it would explode once a year killing everyone inside." Current Tanks... 90 gal Reef... My awesome Office BioCube....( 180 was on hold ..no time ) ... The 180 gal has been sold...Yay..yay..yay. Hobby Experience: 19 years Reef...22 years FW |
10/28/2008, 11:23 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
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10/28/2008, 11:24 PM | #8 |
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PS. I forgot to mention removing detritus accumulations by puffing up the rock or substrate or siphoning.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
10/29/2008, 09:28 AM | #9 |
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Let me try to answer everyones questions:
1. Im using AP1 test kits 2. Im feeding 1 cube a day either mysis cube or a mixed mysys,spirulina,brine mix cube and also a dash of cycolpeez maybe 2-3 times a week. When I say a dash, I mean a really tiny amount(1/4 full of the little scoop that the cyclopeez came with) 3. I also sometimes feed Reef Bugs maybe 1-2 times a week overnight and I turn off the pumps overnight when I do this. I use less than the suggested amount for my tank size as well when I feed this. 4. Tank is about 3 years old 5. I already have 2 korilias 3s plus the return pump which looks to be a whole lot of flow in the tank i think. Well, I do not currently rinse off the cubs b4 feeding nor do I use a turkey baster to blow off excess detritus off the rocks so I will start doing that today. I think Im going to stop using the reefbugs for a little while to see if that helps as well. My skimmer seems to be kicking some serious butt so I don't think its the skimmer. Flow actually seems to be pretty good as well with the korilias and and return pump. I have never found a dead spot in the tank so not sure if its due to this either. I have a 20g sump with a refugium compartment area, but I just never set up the fuge area so I guess it may be a good idea to do that this weekend! lol If it is phophates, is their some type of media or something I can use to remove it instead of using a phosban reactor?
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Your tank looks better than you think it does.. Current Tank Info: 75g Rimless, 20g refugium, mixed reef, 2-Kessil 360x, MP40/MP10, Essence S-130, Eheim1262 |
10/29/2008, 10:01 AM | #10 |
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I am having the exact same problem in my 75g F/O...in the past on another tank I used "Red Slime Remover" from Ultralife Reef Products and got rid of it.
I'm sure there are negatives to this approach...I was going to dose it this AM, guess I'll wait and see if there are any comments on "Red Slime Remover" first. Good luck! |
10/29/2008, 11:00 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
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10/29/2008, 12:15 PM | #12 |
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How big is this tank? That's a lot of food. I'd likely cut back.
The Red Slime Remover and similar products have been known to crash tanks, and usually don't get rid of the problem for very long.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
10/29/2008, 12:17 PM | #13 |
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It's a 75g..Should I use half a cube instead of an entire cube?
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Your tank looks better than you think it does.. Current Tank Info: 75g Rimless, 20g refugium, mixed reef, 2-Kessil 360x, MP40/MP10, Essence S-130, Eheim1262 |
10/29/2008, 12:53 PM | #14 |
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I'd try a half cube, and if there's still a problem, reduce it further. What fish are in the system, and what size are they?
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Jonathan Bertoni |
10/29/2008, 01:11 PM | #15 |
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-Small percula clown (2")
-Pair of leapard wrasses male and female (3") -Yellow watchman goby (3.5") -Forktail blenny (3.5") -Small Hippo tang (1.5") -fire goby (3") -1 cleaner shrimp -Rest is just the cleaning crew like small hermit crabs and snails
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Your tank looks better than you think it does.. Current Tank Info: 75g Rimless, 20g refugium, mixed reef, 2-Kessil 360x, MP40/MP10, Essence S-130, Eheim1262 |
10/29/2008, 01:19 PM | #16 |
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Personally, I would not put the red slime remover in my tank.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
10/29/2008, 01:25 PM | #17 |
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get Blue vet control for red slime and cut back on feeding, lights
until you get rid of it. |
10/29/2008, 02:11 PM | #18 |
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i got rid of an outbreak by leaving the lights off for four days.
three days into the lights being on and its back |
10/29/2008, 02:52 PM | #19 |
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I'd cut the feeding down by at least half, and probably remove the tang. The tank is heavily stocked, for the long haul. You could improve the filtration by growing and harvesting a macroalga, too.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
10/30/2008, 07:42 AM | #20 |
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What exactly is blue bet control and have you had success using it?
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Your tank looks better than you think it does.. Current Tank Info: 75g Rimless, 20g refugium, mixed reef, 2-Kessil 360x, MP40/MP10, Essence S-130, Eheim1262 |
10/30/2008, 08:48 AM | #21 |
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I had the same problem as you in the past. Cyano on the sand and occasionally on the glass or rocks. Just couldn't seem to get rid of it. I had good flow thoughout the tanks and even tried to change it with no help. Three days lights out and the cyano came back within a week. Cut back on feedings and the cyano only slowed down slightly. I was running a fuge and nitrates and phosphates were reading zero. I finally broke down and bought some rowaphos and a TLF reactor and, bam, cyano gone. Like another poster here said the cyano is likely consuming some nutrients which is why you test came back at zero. Also, to answer your other question, phosphate remover (GFO, rowaphos, etc) can be placed in a bag in a high flow area of your sump, but it is not nearly as effective as being run in a reactor (a ~$50 investment).
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Eric "If you think things can't get worse it's probably only because you lack sufficient imagination." Current Tank Info: 140 DSA with basement sump room |
10/30/2008, 09:11 AM | #22 |
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use your search engine and look up "Blue Vet" red slime control
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