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Unread 11/27/2008, 10:43 AM   #876
Fuzznutz
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I just did it in Killz...I really don't think it needs to be flame retardant. BTW, I built mine as a "floating" canopy.


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Unread 11/27/2008, 11:00 AM   #877
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I plan on having VHOs in the canopy too and with the plastic endcaps, I dont think it would be a bad idea to have flame retardant, if possible. I just noticed your canopy was black but underneath was white. Is the white paint just to help with more light reflection?


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Unread 11/27/2008, 11:17 AM   #878
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I figured it would help reflect. The danger with the endcaps would be salt creep, other than that you should be fine.


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Unread 11/27/2008, 11:56 AM   #879
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Quote:
Originally posted by giants4pc
I have the Reeflux 12k's - great growth but too white. Given the size of the reflectors, I don't have room for actinics as these reflectors are essentially the area of each side of the 90. Both domes hang over each side of the center brace. Where would actinics fit? I would love to put 2 110watt VHO actinics, but they wouldn't even be over the tank. Here is a pic.

Your next choice might be 14,000K bulbs, but I think VHO or T5 bulbs would work. I'd run one on the front and one on the back, secured to the pony wall and the aquarium.


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Unread 11/27/2008, 12:05 PM   #880
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Quote:
Originally posted by ryshark
I plan on having VHOs in the canopy too and with the plastic endcaps, I dont think it would be a bad idea to have flame retardant, if possible. I just noticed your canopy was black but underneath was white. Is the white paint just to help with more light reflection?
If you have a fire in your canopy, you've got bigger issues than what color paint you should have used. Seriously, as long as everything is wired and secured properly, it should be safe. However, it is your job to check everything out daily, always looking at how the equipment is doing as time erodes away at your system. Salt creep is something to be aware of, and cleaning everything well periodically will definitely assist in discovery of potential hazards.

Kilz is fine for inside the canopy. Flat white paint is good too. You'd think glossy would be better, but flat paint reflects better believe it or not. Note most homes have flat white ceilings for a reason.


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Unread 11/27/2008, 09:14 PM   #881
giants4pc
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Your next choice might be 14,000K bulbs, but I think VHO or T5 bulbs would work. I'd run one on the front and one on the back, secured to the pony wall and the aquarium.
The issue is that since it is an in-wall and the 2x4's are cut, I lose about 3-4" of width away from the standard 18" width of a 90. So, I agree that it should work, but I am actually losing space in this instance because of the in-wall.


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Unread 11/27/2008, 10:26 PM   #882
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I can totally relate. Because of my pony wall, my lights are on the back side of my reef, rather than centered over the tank. Take a look at this end shot:




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Unread 11/30/2008, 07:29 AM   #883
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I just recieved my new "wide" minis. Mike @ Reef Specialty helped me out with the purchase. I am upgrading from T-5 and PC lighting. I told my wife that with the halides I will only need to replace 3 bulbs vs 4 PC and 8 T-5's.

I reduced my light schedule to 2 hrs total for now and will increase every week.

I turned them on after I was finished hanging them to see the coverage and they look great!



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Unread 11/30/2008, 07:55 AM   #884
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ddevlin....

They look like they are hanging a little low. How far are the bulbs from the water?? You definately don't want to burn up your corals. I know with the regular mini's most people are anywhere from 15-18" from the bulb to the water.


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Unread 11/30/2008, 08:28 AM   #885
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Where did you get those hangers? Are they udjustable?


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Unread 11/30/2008, 09:07 AM   #886
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Canopy install

I can't remember if i posted here when i first got my lights but here is the setup and how it looks after about 5 months of burning.








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Unread 11/30/2008, 02:26 PM   #887
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Has anybody had a chance to try out the new "wide" style pendants? Still looking at lighting for my current project, and need something that will cover a 84" X 36" X 30"T tank.
Looking into about 400 - 500 watts of T-5 plus 3 MH (250 - 400 W) Pendants to be on 4-6 hrs a day. Like the Lumen Brights but wondering if I'll get the coverage I need without sacrificing the PAR values at the sand bed. (1 - 2" sandbed)

Obi


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Unread 11/30/2008, 02:59 PM   #888
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Quote:
Originally posted by ddevlin
I reduced my light schedule to 2 hrs total for now and will increase every week.

I turned them on after I was finished hanging them to see the coverage and they look great!
I'd like to see how you have those connected on top. Is that a rod or a wire? At first I thought you ran the wire up and out of the top and had your ballasts in the ceiling, which would have been a major mod.

Let's see more of how you did it! Give us all the details, because that is one clean install.


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Unread 11/30/2008, 06:25 PM   #889
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Quote:
Originally posted by tas5tas
ddevlin....

They look like they are hanging a little low. How far are the bulbs from the water?? You definately don't want to burn up your corals. I know with the regular mini's most people are anywhere from 15-18" from the bulb to the water.
My tank is 24" deep. The center of the bulb is about 14" off the water. I have a huge center brace so that is part of the reason I am on the low end. I have dimmable balast and have the center on max and the outside two turned down just a bit.


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Unread 11/30/2008, 06:44 PM   #890
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
I'd like to see how you have those connected on top. Is that a rod or a wire? At first I thought you ran the wire up and out of the top and had your ballasts in the ceiling, which would have been a major mod.

Let's see more of how you did it! Give us all the details, because that is one clean install.
After speaking with Mike and discussing the weight the first step (after measuring where I wanted the lights) I had to do was crawl into the attic and instal 2x4 supports for the fixtures to screw into.

I went to Lowes and purchased 3 pendant light fixtures.
Lowes Pendants
The cord can be adjusted to the height needed (compression fitting in the base). I had to remove the top plate from the LB's and cut a hole for the socket to hold on to. The socked is ceramic so it will withstand any heat.

Because of the LB socket the weight is not balanced so your hole needs to be cut further back to compensate.

I'm pleased with the final result.


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Unread 11/30/2008, 08:27 PM   #891
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Looks great! Thanks for the details!


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Unread 11/30/2008, 09:07 PM   #892
melev
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Quote:
Originally posted by ddevlin
After speaking with Mike and discussing the weight the first step (after measuring where I wanted the lights) I had to do was crawl into the attic and instal 2x4 supports for the fixtures to screw into.

I went to Lowes and purchased 3 pendant light fixtures.
Lowes Pendants
The cord can be adjusted to the height needed (compression fitting in the base). I had to remove the top plate from the LB's and cut a hole for the socket to hold on to. The socked is ceramic so it will withstand any heat.

Because of the LB socket the weight is not balanced so your hole needs to be cut further back to compensate.

I'm pleased with the final result.
That is SO neat! Huge I don't really like nor trust the little screwed in eyelets.

Nice job.


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Unread 12/01/2008, 08:30 AM   #893
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here is the hood I built. the doors and fans arent in yet. the bulb is 20" from the water, is that ok? I know my hood isn't as elaborate as the ones I see in here but it works!
also, how many and what size fans should I use in here since the back is going to have egg crate?




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Unread 12/01/2008, 08:31 AM   #894
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this is the first canopy I ever built


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Unread 12/01/2008, 09:30 AM   #895
JRaquatics
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnny313
this is the first canopy I ever built
As long as the canopy if functional, that is all that really matters. I would move the reflectors in so that they are side by side and possibly move them down to about 18 inches. If those are mushrooms on the top I would suggest moving them down too. Looks good though.

As for fans I like the 4" variable speed ones by coralvue and or the 4" Ice Cap fans. I would place one on either side and have them both blow inward.


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Unread 12/01/2008, 09:58 AM   #896
obiwanthegoby
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Has anyone done any PAR testing with these on a deeper tank, say 30"? with 250 or 400W? HQI?


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Unread 12/01/2008, 11:17 AM   #897
johnny313
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by JRaquatics
[B]As long as the canopy if functional, that is all that really matters. I would move the reflectors in so that they are side by side and possibly move them down to about 18 inches. If those are mushrooms on the top I would suggest moving them down too. Looks good though.

Thank you. I kept them a lil apart because I have that middle bracket. do you think too much light is hitting the sides of the canopy this way? will the bulbs 2" higher really matter that much?
I moved the shrooms down already.


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Unread 12/01/2008, 11:38 AM   #898
JRaquatics
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2" will make a difference and so will moving the reflectors closer together. You will get less light bleed from the sides and a stronger crossover light inside the tank. It is just a suggestion but if your satisfied with the results by all means leave well enough alone.


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Unread 12/01/2008, 11:48 AM   #899
johnny313
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im moving them! I trust your judgement! all i need is a 2x4 to run across the top and hang the lights on the 2x4. how far apart should the reflectors be?


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Unread 12/01/2008, 11:49 AM   #900
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They are 2 1/2" apart now. its only a 36" tank


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