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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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Copepod Cultures
I know that tiggerpods arent a good copepod for cultures, which kind is good for them?
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#2 |
Phish Lover
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,642
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The large "Tiger Pods" or Tigriopus sp. and Acartia tonsa are called Calanoid copepods I believe. They can be cultivated but are harder for reasons like they require a specific type of phytoplankton and for the case of Tiger pods, they normally live in somewhat cooler waters. I believe Mysidopsis bahia, Nitokra lacustris and Tisbe sp. are called Harpacticoid Cultures which are smaller than Calanoid copepods but are easier to breed living in warmer waters and less picky on what food they will eat. There are many places which sell a mix of unspecified Harpacticoid copepod species. There are also places which sell bottles of a single species.
Here are some websites: http://www.seafarm.com/copepod/ https://livecopepods.com/zencart/ http://www.ipsf.com/ http://www.essentiallivefeeds.com/ http://www.aquaculturestore.com/index.html
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- Jonny -, 120g 5 Year Old Reef w/ SPS, BTA, Zoos & some Softies. 40g Frag Tank. 40g Sump. Super Reef Octopus XP 3000 External Cone Skimmer. 250W Radiums. TaoTronics LED. PanWorld 200PS w/SQWD |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 4,717
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as in to feed a mandarine? What about starting a hang on refugium to grow pods?
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----------------- Current Tanks: New 210 custom 84 x 24 x 24, 60g sump, SWC 250 extreme with bubble blaster 5000, 2 vortech mp40, 2 vortech mp10, 12 T5, Water blaster 5000, warner marine bio pellets, 60g clownfish cube, red carpet anemone with a 25g sump,SRO octopus 1000sss, 250w radium, lumenarc large. |
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#4 |
Phish Lover
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,642
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Seeding a refugium is reportedly more successful when Harpacticoid copepods are used. I have not had much luck with starting a population of copepods by just releasing a bottle's worth into the refugium in a single dose all at once. I find its much better to have a living and breeding culture separate from the aquarium that produces copepods consistently and in large enough numbers so that a percentage of them can be released into the aquarium or refugium at numerous intervals instead of a single addition. This seems to be much more effective and much more reliable at establishing a consistent population of Harpacticoid copepods.
If you are using the pods mainly for feeding mandarins, breeding and establishing a separate culture of Harpacticoid copepods for populating the display tank or target feeding is still worthwhile. However, most people are culturing Calanoid copepods, like Tigger Pods, which is somewhat harder, but still possible. It is a little harder still to try and populate the DT or refugium with them because of the difference in water temperature. They mostly target feed the cultured Calanoid copepods to the mandarins and other plantivores directly and just stick to culturing them in a separate tank.
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- Jonny -, 120g 5 Year Old Reef w/ SPS, BTA, Zoos & some Softies. 40g Frag Tank. 40g Sump. Super Reef Octopus XP 3000 External Cone Skimmer. 250W Radiums. TaoTronics LED. PanWorld 200PS w/SQWD |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Mysids aka Mysidopsis bahia are a mysid and neither a calanoid nor a harpactoid copepod, Tiger Pods AKA Tigger-Pods (Tigriopus calificornus) have a wide range of habitats, reportedly ranging from the tip of Baja (Mexico) to Alaska. They do not live in the ocean but rather the upper splash zone tide pools or rather "cesspools". They get very hot in the summer with triple strength salinity at times and very little to feed upon other then phytoplankton, bacteria, decaying organic matter and odd things like sea bird guano. The splash zone is the uppermost tide pools. They don't get splashed every wave, more like every few days at time.
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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So ''tigger pods''would be ok to use? I am setting up a dwarf tank and I am going to keep it fishless for quite a while so I thought of putting some pods in there and starting a culture also.
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Elmira Heights, NY
Posts: 2,812
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Quote:
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A new beginning........... JIM Current Tank Info: 5g standard softie/zoa tank, just starting a 20H |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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I would add one but me tank will be 2 gallons so its not very big
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Elmira Heights, NY
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oh wow! Thats tiny! Wait...is it 2 or 20? Your current tanks thing says 20gal long. I had the 2.5gal fuge on a 20gal high and it was prob the best thing i ever did for the tank
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A new beginning........... JIM Current Tank Info: 5g standard softie/zoa tank, just starting a 20H |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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I just took my 20 long down and I am now setting up a 2 gallon dwarf seahorse tank until I can move and then set up my ''dream tank''
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#11 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 9,474
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Tigriopus californicus do not make great dwarf seahorse food from what seahorse people have told me. They have large spins that can clog the throat of dwarf and larval seahorses if they eat to many at once. I'd go with tisbe , tonsa or nitokra for such a tank.
BTW soft or pyrex? Er, torch or glory hole? ![]()
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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Mostly gloryhole I've worked with the borosilicate aka pyrex somewhat but workin at a furnace is much more fun
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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Oh and where is a good place to find those types of copepods? Ice bought some from eBay once but I have no idea what kind they are.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
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100% agree. Borosilicate work really should be called glassblowing IMO. I've seen soft glass guys pick up torch work in a day but there is no way a torch guy could pick up soft glass within even a month.
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
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It takes a long time to get even the basics down for furnace work! I'm just a beginner myself but I worked at the glass meuseum here in corning and just loved it.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
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I hate to promote the competitors but truth be told I'm a hobbyist first and truly want to see people succeed
![]() In this order... 1. http://www.seahorsesource.com/cgi-bi...ory=Foods-Live 2. http://livecopepods.com/ Since your interested in them for seahorses i would suggest giving Dan a buzz at Seahorse Source (first link) since that's what they are pro's at.
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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Quote:
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Corning, NY
Posts: 231
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Ha yes my dad worked at corning for like 40 years, and chihuly, there's a piece in the admissions lobby there and everybody flips over him I don't know why his stuff is quite odd! Lol
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#19 | |
Phish Lover
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,642
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Quote:
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- Jonny -, 120g 5 Year Old Reef w/ SPS, BTA, Zoos & some Softies. 40g Frag Tank. 40g Sump. Super Reef Octopus XP 3000 External Cone Skimmer. 250W Radiums. TaoTronics LED. PanWorld 200PS w/SQWD |
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#20 |
Phish Lover
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,642
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I'm no expert on copepods so I may be mixed up, but I have read lots of stuff on it.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-10/rs/index.php
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- Jonny -, 120g 5 Year Old Reef w/ SPS, BTA, Zoos & some Softies. 40g Frag Tank. 40g Sump. Super Reef Octopus XP 3000 External Cone Skimmer. 250W Radiums. TaoTronics LED. PanWorld 200PS w/SQWD |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
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Mysids are NOT easy to culture, sorry. They take careful daily screening to separate sizes due to high rates cannibalism. They are one of the hardest feed creatures you could attempt to culture for marine aquaria. Do a web search and see how many actually offer truly cultured mysids. I'll save you the effort. There are only two commercial outfits that do it in the US. The only reason they actually can stay in business is most are used by the EPA. Every other company offering them wild collects them. Behind the EPA, we're the largest buyer of them. If they were so easy to deal with we'd be growing them ourselves and not buying them from others.
Your a biology student. Do you feel it's probable life evolves and acclimates to various conditions over time? With an animal with a 100 day or so life cycle do you think after 3 years of growing in a different environment then they naturally grow they might evolve/acclimate to it? Why are nearly all my copepods in my tank and most I see not benthic but rather pelagic? I've had numerous samples from my tank ID by experts and the majority(2/3) was ID'd as calanoids. Some herpacs were found and even true marine rotifers amongst a few other odd things. FWIW Tigger-Pods are benthic. Other then that I have little time tonight to continue to go around and around with you ![]() ![]()
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#22 |
Phish Lover
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,642
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I never said Mysids are easy to culture, I said they can be but are hard to culture.
I agree with much that you are saying and acknowledge you do have more experience than me in the matter of culturing copepods. I know that copepods are very able to adapt to different environments. I can't say for me that most of the copepods in my tanks are calanoid. They are the smaller, benthic harpacitcoids. Neverless, I still believe from experience, other people's experiences and from what I have read that Tigger-pods take a little more effort to establish in an aquarium than Tisbe sp. and smaller copepods. It still can be done successfully, but for someone culturing copepods for the first time all I was saying is harpacticoids will prove to be easier and more successful in the end.
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- Jonny -, 120g 5 Year Old Reef w/ SPS, BTA, Zoos & some Softies. 40g Frag Tank. 40g Sump. Super Reef Octopus XP 3000 External Cone Skimmer. 250W Radiums. TaoTronics LED. PanWorld 200PS w/SQWD |
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#23 | ||
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
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I apologize if I came off rude or harsh. It was the end of a long week and it got the better of me
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Quote:
![]() I was culturing them at home with artemia. The culture lasted 6 months with about 10 minutes total a week spent on feeding some phyto and an occasional freshwater top off. The artemia boomed and busted while the tigriopus cal. kept gaining in density. Neither ever maxed out in density. I bet they'd have gone on longer but I needed the space for an "ss" rotifer strain I obtained.
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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#24 |
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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We culture both Tigriopus and Tisbe pods (as well as pseudocyclops) All are excellent pods, but we feel the products have a different intended use. The Tigriopus we recommend for target feeding and the tisbes (and Pseudocyclops) for seeding refugiums. The the summer we could not keep the cultures going at the same density in the summer as we could in the winter. It was when we added a chiller to the cultures that the cultures produced consistent numbers.
Tigriopus are TSD (Temperature-dependent sex Determined/ation) and reef temperatures induce masculinization. Eventually more and more males are produced until there are no longer enough females to sustain the population. I'm not saying the next generation will be all male or even that all of the species is affected equally.... but a better choice of copepods are those that love reef temperatures and that would be Tisbe sp.and Pseudocyclops sp.
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#25 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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What papers I have brought up on that subject show a mere 2% - 5% shift which is not real impact on the population at the rates they breed.
I find it odd we produce tens of thousands and have so for 3 or so years and have not seen what our others claim. It could be how ours is set-up, the feed, culture source, etc. We've never employed chillers on the copepod cultures. How long have you been working with the one culture and did you collect it yourself?
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Gresham _______________________________ Feeding your reef...one polyp at a time |
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