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Unread 03/03/2006, 02:05 AM   #26
cfarrow2
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If you're using RO water and doing water changes regularly, how bad can the phosphates really get?


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Current Tank Info: 55 gal. 216 W. T5s. Wet/dry sump w/ Mag 5 return. Softies, 3 fish, shrimp, urchin. HA factory for the time being.
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Unread 03/03/2006, 06:56 AM   #27
wnutz
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well how slow should i have the water comming out of the reactor?


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Unread 03/03/2006, 07:08 AM   #28
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally posted by cfarrow2
If you're using RO water and doing water changes regularly, how bad can the phosphates really get?
It is dificult to know as all systems are different, in my case feeding twice a day and changing 15% of the water every week I got an increase of 0.05 ppm in one month. but I also use activated carbon which also adds some phosphate and a Ca reactor which also adds some.


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 03/03/2006, 07:14 AM   #29
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally posted by wnutz
well how slow should i have the water comming out of the reactor?
For a 90 try 15 ml per minute and add about 10 ml per week until you reach the fluidization level. That will remove the Phosphate in the tank in about one month.
Because the rate of drop will depend much on how much and how fast phosphate in rock and sand starts to be relased and how much you are adding with your food, if you have detectable levels test the water after 48 to 72 hours of the start to see how fast is dropping and adjust accordingly. Also observe your corals, if you notice some reaction reduce the flow.
For a 180 gal tank try twice as much.


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 03/03/2006, 09:39 AM   #30
wnutz
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15ml per minute is real precise i have no way in measuring that i have a pump rated at 100 gph so its prbably pushig 85 to 90 gph should i have the little valve just barely open and since i hear people talkin about the phosban getting back in the tank would it be ok to put a little sponge filter at the end of the output hose?


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Unread 03/03/2006, 12:36 PM   #31
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Unread 03/03/2006, 02:10 PM   #32
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I just set my TLF Phosban 150 up. I filled the chamber 1/4 up with phosban, about 1/2 the 150 G container. I run the maxi jet 404 turned down and the flow valve is still shut 85% to get the top of the phosban tumbling. All looks good, from those who run this unit does this sound good?


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Unread 03/03/2006, 05:02 PM   #33
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally posted by saltman1
.....to get the top of the phosban tumbling. All looks good, from those who run this unit does this sound good?
Here is what Julian Sprung the owner of the Phosban brand and Two Little Fishies say about that....

"... so the tumbling of such media in a typical fluidized sand filter would produce fines in the water. This does not prevent the use of such media in an upflow filter. If the base of the upflow filter has a perforated plate that disperses the flow and the flow rate is adjusted to lift the media without causing tumbling, the desired effect can be achieved...."

So, surprize!.... no tumbling. Adjust the flow until the surface grains of the media start to slightly move then back up just a little bit but without allowing the media colum to drop.


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 03/03/2006, 05:25 PM   #34
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally posted by wnutz
15ml per minute is real precise i have no way in measuring that i have a pump rated at 100 gph so its prbably pushig 85 to 90 gph should i have the little valve just barely open and since i hear people talkin about the phosban getting back in the tank would it be ok to put a little sponge filter at the end of the output hose?
Here is the sequence:

Insert the inner pipe with the lower perforated plate attached to it and center it in the reactor. Add a foam filter pad (With a hole in the center to pass the inner pipe) and push it down until it sits on top of the lower plate.
Add the dry media. To prevent media going inside the center pipe use a plastic cap to cover the top of the pipe while you add the media.
Remove the cap and insert the top plate attached to the short inner pipe extension. Insert a foam pad and push it down against the top of the higher plate. If you have a thicker foam media that the one that comes with the reactor, cut it for a tight fit and use it.

Place the cover in the reactor. get a bucket and place the output hose into the bucket. Turn on the powerhead and slowly open the valve. the reactor starts to fill and the media to rise. open the flow and let the "dirty" water into the bucket. Shut off the valve when you think the water has cleared enough and most of the dust fines have been rinsed off. Open the reactor and remove the top foam. Wash it to remove any trapped fines and replace it back on top of the higher plate. Fill all the space above the top foam filter and up to the reactor cover with fine fiber filter and close the reactor.
Put your outlet hose back to the sump or whatever your return will be. Turn on the powerhead and start opening the inlet valve. The media starts to rise. If you are using the full dose of media limit the flow to a small amount as mentioned in the post above.

To measure the amount of flow get a watch with seconds needle or a stop watch and a measuring cup. Measure how much water is being passed in certain amount of time, adjust the flow and you are there.

For the ones using full flow you do not need to measure just adjust the flow as mentioned above to the point were the top lighter grains at the surface of the media start slightly tumbling and then back up a little bit.

Enjoy watching your phosphate going down...


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 03/04/2006, 09:04 PM   #35
saltman1
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Have a question, does this make sense. After 24 hours of starting up the reactor I am starting to notice a red slime algae starting to cover the sand??? Whats the deal....


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Unread 03/05/2006, 09:41 AM   #36
jdieck
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Quote:
Originally posted by saltman1
Have a question, does this make sense. After 24 hours of starting up the reactor I am starting to notice a red slime algae starting to cover the sand??? Whats the deal....
I think phosphate reduction if any shall help to prevent cyano but keep in mind that iron based media reduces PH and Alkalinity so try to keep them in check just in case cyano is an indirect result of it. How are your Nitrates?


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Current Tank Info: 225 gal reef, DSB, 40 g sump w/ LRT100 return, 37 g pre-sump, 3 MH 250 W 15K, 4 96 W PC dual actinic,ETS 1500 Skim.w/LRT70, 20 lb Ca R., 40 W UV, 1/3 HP chiller, two 350 W Htrs, Neptune II Cont., 330 P LR/ 330 P LS. 55 gal Refugium
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Unread 03/05/2006, 09:50 AM   #37
Neptune777
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I used the full container (phosban) in the reactor right from the start...no ill effects at all. I have lots of sps and none showed issues. Not sure what all the fuss is about.....


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Unread 03/05/2006, 08:52 PM   #38
saltman1
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Nitrates are 10 ppm currently. It's funny the tank has been up and running for almost 5 months now and the only spot this algae showed was on the overflow drains...now all of a sudden it shows up on the sand near the glass.....anyone else with thoughts


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