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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 198
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To quarantine or not quarantine, that is the question
I have always quarantined all of my fish for 4-6 weeks before they go into my display tank. I like to do this so that I can run copper to kill parasites so that hopefully I won't introduce ich into my display(by the way this thread is not intended for a discussion on the presence or absence of ich in a display setup).
So I bought a Potter's Angel. I want to find out what tyes of experience, both positive and negative, people have had with the quarantine of Potter's Angels. Should I qt or not qt??? |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Crown Point, IN
Posts: 41
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I have tried qt many times and always seem to stress the fish out more. I know that I am supposed to qt, but my success rate at it is abysmal. Lately I have been doing a prophylactic dip, then straight into my display tank. I never did qt until a couple of years ago when I read about how important it is, the only thing is I never had a problem without qt and always do with qt.
Obviously my qt system is inadequate somehow. I use a 10 gallon, I typically only get small fish, but I think I will eventually get a larger qt system when $ allows. |
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#3 | |
RC Mod
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Location: West Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 17,732
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Re: To quarantine or not quarantine, that is the question
Quote:
If I'm going to treat in a Q-tank, I prefer to do it with hyposalinity, if it's a type of fish that can take that (and most can). As to the question, I've seen enough tank crashes that I think it's always better to quarantine. Dave
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Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so. -Douglas Adams Current Tank Info: 14g, 29g nano reefs |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 198
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Yes, I traditionally qt all fish with copper for 4-6 weeks before I add to the display tank to ensure the removal of parasites is guaranteed (especially tangs).
In question here is wheter or not to qt a POTTER'S ANGEL. |
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#5 | |
RC Mod
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Re: Re: To quarantine or not quarantine, that is the question
Quote:
The reason I asked about your methods is because the way you do it, I would consider not quarantining more than if you said you only treat them when you actually see signs of the disease. Hyposalinity would have your same "guarantee", but is safer for the fish. Dave
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Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so. -Douglas Adams Current Tank Info: 14g, 29g nano reefs |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 198
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I am not clear on what you are trying to communicate in your post. Also, when you say hyposalinity is safer...what specific gravity?
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 929
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If you do choose to quarantine the new Potters angel, do not use copper. Copper is almost a sure death for angels.
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#8 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Carol Stream, IL
Posts: 23,162
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I only have one example, I picked up my potter's about a month ago. I did not quarantine it. I put in directly in to my 6+ year old 58g. It was eating within hours of being put into the tank, plus picking at the rocks all day long. Since I did not put him into QT I can't say what would have happened.
Just my $0.02.
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Click my name and then "visit toddrtrex's homepage" for tank pictures Current Tank Info: 210g reef and 65g reef |
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#9 |
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Location: Carol Stream, IL
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and here is the best picture of said potter's that I have.
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Click my name and then "visit toddrtrex's homepage" for tank pictures Current Tank Info: 210g reef and 65g reef |
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#10 | |
RC Mod
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Location: West Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 17,732
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Quote:
The third is that if you're going to treat, I feel that hyposalinity is a better method for most fish than copper. With hyposalinity, the specific gravity should be in the 1.011 range, and you need to make sure you're checking it with a refractometer, not a hydrometer. Dave
__________________
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so. -Douglas Adams Current Tank Info: 14g, 29g nano reefs |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 198
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Wolverine, a few posts up Tremelle says that copper is almost a sure death for angels. I have never heard anything like this before about angels. Any opinion on this?
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#12 | |
RC Mod
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Quote:
Dave
__________________
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so. -Douglas Adams Current Tank Info: 14g, 29g nano reefs |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 198
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So I guess what you are saying is that I should use the 31.25ml or not use it at all. The product that I a using is called Copper Power. It states that it is 60 times less toxic to fish. The bottom line is that I really like my Potter's Angel and want it to thrive. You have stated that you are against copper unless there are signs of disease and I respect your opinion. I have already started the copper last night at about 8pm which makes it 14 hours that the fish has been in "copper" quarantine. Do you think it will be ok? If not what do you suggest?
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#14 |
RC Mod
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Location: West Bloomfield, MI
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One thing I would do is read this.
Steve did a nice review on Ich, and the treatment options. There's a second part to the article also. At some point he also did an article on quarantining fish, and the methods he uses. He uses hyposalinity with fish at high risk of getting ich. As for your situation, I would do one of two things. One would be to bump the copper up to the therapeutic range. Before you do that, test the copper level yourself. That will give you more information than what is on the side of the bottle (Steve's article above gives the various therapeutic windows from different authors). The other option would be to forgo the copper side of things, and switch to hyposalinity. Whether or not you would actively remove the copper at this point would be up to you. The process of making the tank hyposaline would significantly reduce the concentration anyway. If it were my tank, I would go with the latter, for numerous reasons. I don't know anything about that product in particular. In general, I'm suspicious of claims like that, since they often don't have any true justification for their quantification (ie, how did they decide that this was 60X less toxic for fish?). Dave
__________________
Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so. -Douglas Adams Current Tank Info: 14g, 29g nano reefs |
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#15 |
Dogmatic Dinosaur
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 6,256
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IMO limiting stress is better than fighting disease.
I don't always quarantine, but I do like to isolate fish. I have a 210G FOWLR and a 75G isolation/fuge that share a sump. I at least isolate all new fish for a month. The isolation/fuge is full of pods and other fauna and provides a nice stress-free place for the new fish not to get sick while they get used to captive life and learn to eat captive foods. Even I get a specimin with a disease, my other fish are strong enough to resist it, so I don't necessarlialy pull them to medicate right away. Most of the time they heal on their own very quickly (if they are eating). If I do need to medicate, then I have a 37G cube that I fill up with display water ready to go. Medication is a last resort and I have only had to do it a few times in the last 5-6 years. Only after the fish are strong, colorful and will fight for food do they go into the other tanks. |
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