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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 17
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UV Steralizer
Hello everyone, i am currently in the market for a UV since i plan on introducing a powder blue tang to my tank which are magnets for getting ich my question besides water changes and proper care and feeding to what degree can a UV control ich and other parasites and what voltage should i purchase?
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220 Mission Tank 200ilb. live rock 1 hippo tang, 4 clowns, yellow tang, chocolate tang, fox face, centropyge joculator, mandarine and assorted corales. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Greenfield
Posts: 904
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I use a Twist 3x in my 90 gallon and i have had no trouble whatsoever.
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John Martin Current Tank Info: 29 Gallon BioCube |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: ohio
Posts: 187
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I use a 40 watt on my 90 also. I never have any problems. Rainbow lifeguard recommends 40 watts for up 200 gallons. I would go with a little more than 40 to be safe.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 320
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i use 18 watts 24/7. since i install it, never have ich again. be patient. run it 24/7, it'll take couple weeks to control ich. dont panic when fish already has ich. it will fall off later and will be cleaned out by the uv, if you run it continously... I wouldnt run a reef tank without a uv. it really works...
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 59
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no reef with out it? Is this a shared opinion? I was debating getting a UV sterilizer.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 833
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It really depends on who you talk to. Some swear by them on every tank and some say they will kill off too much beneficial organisms along with the parasites. Remember that the UV will kill everything that passes through it.
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Nate cham - "Taste it, if it tastes like poop.....it is." Current Tank Info: 400 gallon in progress. 8x3x2.5 |
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#7 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: HAZELWOOD, MO
Posts: 2,260
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yes it will kill all the good guys as well. if everyone is in good health there is no need for 24/7 usage. if you wan to keep pods and what not than i would as i do put it on a timer for up to a few hours a day at the most as i try to keep a nice supply of pods readily available for whoever feels froggy to eat them ot just to keep th pod population up. just my .02 worth.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: down under
Posts: 472
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so what if you run the sterilizer on the overflow to the sump, before a fuge, therefore any pod that wants to get into the display can do so and if it doesnt get eaten then maybe it will be killed but surely that is a good way to have your cake and eat it too!!!!
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#9 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: HAZELWOOD, MO
Posts: 2,260
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they wont just stay in your sump as they are in your sand and LR in the display already.
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#10 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tea, SD
Posts: 1,657
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Quote:
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You can't control the wind, but you can adjust your sails. Current Tank Info: 270 gallon reef. |
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#11 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
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With regard to UV & Ich, a UV unit a Zero effect on Ich.
Yes it will kill the swimming guys, but it will not stop the spread. Blue Tangs should be quarentined and if needed Hypoed or Cu++. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Union, Ohio, USA
Posts: 6,590
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Quarantine is the only way to stop ICH. To many people think UV is going to stop ICH, if ich is on the fish a UV can do nothing for it.
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I'm a SaltGeek are You? All LED since 2010. Current Tank Info: 375 Gallon Reef with siporax, all LED lighting, and Red Dragon 3 and Abyzz A200 on 2 closed loops. |
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#13 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: HAZELWOOD, MO
Posts: 2,260
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there are so many like marinelife said uv will not stop ich once infected. many believe that it will stop the start of ich if they continue to run the uv once it is been taken care of? so what do you believe.
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 17
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It's difficult to know if a uv sterilizer works or not in reference to ich, some have success with it some don't i think your method is a educated analysis of uv steelier and controlling ich in a tank after it is cured.
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220 Mission Tank 200ilb. live rock 1 hippo tang, 4 clowns, yellow tang, chocolate tang, fox face, centropyge joculator, mandarine and assorted corales. |
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#15 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: INDY
Posts: 2,857
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Quote:
I second this....Please qt this fish..
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AKA Kim Hardie.. Current Tank Info: 240 gallon FOWLR, 180 gallon reef, 55 gallon for my Dwarf Lion |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 17
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Absolutely will qt. pb for a minimum of 4 weeks but also thinking of qt. all my fish since my blue hippo had ich about a month ago but not currently, never medicated the fish and the ich vanished . I know ich can be dormit and then return so im seriously thinking about hypo-salinity all of fish first then introducing the powder blue.....
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220 Mission Tank 200ilb. live rock 1 hippo tang, 4 clowns, yellow tang, chocolate tang, fox face, centropyge joculator, mandarine and assorted corales. |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Union, Ohio, USA
Posts: 6,590
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here is some info from another site
"UV sterilizers can only kill the parasites that pass through the unit at the appropriate kill rate flow (varies with parasite, bacteria, algae, etc). It will not kill/eradicate the cysts that are developing on the floor/substrate nor will it kill the parasites feeding on the fish. UV can reduce the number of pathogens/parasites but will not eliminate them. UV sterilizers must be operated at the appropriate flow and the water must be prefiltered preferably through a micron filter first to allow the lamp's light to penetrate the water and not be obscured with particles/detritus, etc. Most units have a quartz sleeve that must be cleaned of algae, buildup, etc frequently otherwise the unit's lamp can not penetrate efficiently. The UV bulb itself needs to be replaced on a regular basis - usually every 6-9 months - more frequently on length of usage. Check into the replacement price of the bulbs. With the price of the UV, bulbs and energy costs, along with the time and energy needed to maintain the unit so it can only reduce the number of parasites - I would rather have something that eradicates the problem completely so my fish are not exposed to chronic stress of parasites taxing their immune system. I would suggest going with a proven method of eradicating ich - display tank is fishless for 6 weeks and all fish in a quarantine tank treated with either copper or hyposalinity. With the money you will save by not having to add chemicals that are not eradicating the parasite and the money you would have spent on the UV, purchase a quarantine system to treat these fish and in the future you can quarantine anything wet for at least 4 weeks in this system to prevent the reintroduction of parasites. " and Steve Pro once wrote I don't recommend UV's for most people. A quarantine tank is more effective and generally cheaper. While I don't think UV's do much harm. I think the risk to plankton is overexaggerated, in my opinion, the bigger risk is the false sense of security they provide. "I don't need to quarantine. I have a UV!" Even free, I would not run one and I can speak from personal experience on that point. I have gotten at least three units over the last couple of years. None of which I used. I have considered adding one to my freshwater outdoor pond though, but have not gotten a free or cheap one that can be used outside yet.
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I'm a SaltGeek are You? All LED since 2010. Current Tank Info: 375 Gallon Reef with siporax, all LED lighting, and Red Dragon 3 and Abyzz A200 on 2 closed loops. |
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#18 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: HAZELWOOD, MO
Posts: 2,260
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agreed
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 17
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220 Mission Tank 200ilb. live rock 1 hippo tang, 4 clowns, yellow tang, chocolate tang, fox face, centropyge joculator, mandarine and assorted corales. |
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