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Unread 07/21/2006, 11:23 AM   #76
hahnmeister
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Quote:
Originally posted by RichConley
If you've got a really narrow tank, most likely.

've got a DIY "swirler stein" rotating a maximod. The maximod has a very short shroud, so it moves water in a MUCH wider pattern than a tunze does. (My 6060 seems to still hold about a 2-3" pattern at 12-18", wheras the maximod has a much wider flow) I dont use southdown, I use kolorscape, which has a much larger granual size, so it doesnt kick up all that much.

The tunze doesnt hit the glass because its facing rocks.
Yes it can, so unless you go bare bottom having the powerhead rotate like that can be a bad idea. The best way to mount these would be at the ends of the tank, facing each other in a way....but so they move from blowing behind the rocks to in front of the rocks on alternating cycles (or one pump on a 1rpm and the other on a 2 or 1/2 rpm cycle. With the WavySea as well, you can program the time it stays in one direction and the time is takes to shift seperate...you really can program that thing to do alot...like stay at the left 180 degree point for 10 minutes, then shift to 90 degrees (middle) in 3 seconds and hold for 1 minutes, then go to the right 180 and hold for 5 minues...etc... So you could have the WavySea go from the left to right very fast to prevent a large 'stream' from forming, and just have it hold its pattern at either side for a minute at a time. That would minimize the problem in a tank that is say...18" or shallower.

OR you could just go bare bottom...its not like the corals down in front would mind the blast.


Quote:
Originally posted by trmiv
Possibly, but I'd hate to find out they won't work after spending the money on them. I'd have to sell my 6000 to be able to afford a wavysea.
Perhaps a phone call to the mfg is in order?


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Unread 07/21/2006, 11:51 AM   #77
Pez Vela
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Tunze

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The tunze 6000 are 15 watts each.
Tunze is @ 1850 GPH? correct?

@ 140W, the Dart is @ 3600 GPH (0 head) if I am reading their chart correctly. So how do you compare essentially a powerhead to a water pump? Other than basic electricity usage. Help on this? Not being sarcastic, just trying to figure out where the balance would be assuming all factors like head loss, watts used etc....

Mike


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Unread 07/21/2006, 12:20 PM   #78
Eric Boerner
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Ok, so lets say that you want to do some kind of controlled flow. Compare the Tunze with a controller and a Sequence dart with 2 Sea Swirls. Its not 'exact' flow characteristics, but close enough to make some kind of baseline comparision, since both are widely used methods. The premise is that were trying to achieve 3600 GPH from both.

Cost of the system (Prices taken from Marinedepot):

x2 Tunze 6000 with controller (3700 GPH): $765
Monthly $ continuous use: $3.29 @ 35wt (2x15 +5) * ($.18 / KW national avg)
10 month usage cost = $798

Sequence Dart w. x2 - 1" Seaswirls (3600 GPH with no friction loss): $589
Monthly $ continuous use: $22.08 @ 168wt (2x4 +160) * ($.18 / KW national avg)
10 month usage cost = $809

So like I said, the Tunze's will pay for themselves in less than a year vs. a 3600 GPH closed loop.


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Unread 07/21/2006, 12:22 PM   #79
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Are Tunze "s worth the money Yes, and one other thing you need to show in the cost thay keep the heat out of the water in your reef tank.


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Unread 07/21/2006, 12:34 PM   #80
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I have two 6100s and a 7095 and really like them.

They are expensive, maybe too much so, but they're the only powerhead I would want in a large tank. Therefore, the price is not negotiable.

They are silent, they are efficient and very adjustable in terms of flow and timing.

The magents are a requirement IMO, so factor that into the purchase.

Also, Tunze tends to sell out quickly and then be on backorder for awhile, so you may have some wait time to get your order.


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Unread 07/21/2006, 02:59 PM   #81
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Reguarding some stuff that was said back on pages 3/4...

When two CONTROLLABLE streams are set at oposing ends of the tank, and one is running at full blast while the other is not, would allow different directions of current within the tank. Allow me to make a stupid analogy :P .

Say you have two rows of vehicles facing each other on an uneven ground(small hills between the two). Now, lets represent the tunzes running at 100% with Semi trucks, and those running at 30% with small cars. Now allow both rows to drive completely straight toward each other(no turning of the steering wheels). They will not travel in a completely straight direction, because of the uneven ground(rockwork in the tank affecting water flow), and when they colide, it will be slightly uneven. The larger semis will push the small cars around, and they will move around a certain way on the ground. Now, reverse the two lines, the semis now where the cars were, and the cars where the semis were. Repeat the same movement of the vehicles, but again, they different strengths of current will react differently with the ground, and when they colide, they will again move in a different fasion, similar to two seperate strengths of current. Now, im not saying that this will provide perfect flow all around the tank, but It will create are more powerful current in some general directions than others, and then reverse that. I do agree that a powerhead, be it a tunze 6060, Seio 2600, or MJ Mod, mounted on a wavysea would cover the entire tank well, but the unidirectional flow at each point will not provide water movement through the whole tank like a surge. It provides the same rate of waterflow at each point it is hitting(although it does go very low after the ouput passes). Personally, I think the best thing would be controllable powerheads on a wavysea like device.

I cant remember what I dissagreed to at first though, but I think the idea of a powerhead that may have its output flow regulated and changed is more beneficial. Do just one of those on a wavysea VS an uncontrolled one on a Wavysea, and you will get alot more randomization with the controlled pump. The controlled pump is 99.9% likely to be out of sync with the wavysea's back and forth pattern, and will within X amount of 'rotations', hit every portion an uncontrolled powerhead would, but with different levels of waterflow at each 'pass', and still leaving room for those 'dead-ish' times after it passes. Imo, that would be a very good replication of surges.

Chris


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Unread 07/21/2006, 08:55 PM   #82
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I dont know... For the tank as a whole, sure, the randomness of a oscillating mount and a wave timer together sounds good, but think about it from the coral's perspective. Given the choice, would that SPS colony rather get blasted with water once every 30 seconds (or whatever) as the powerhead sweeps back and forth in a reliable pattern, OR, maybe only get half of that because not only is the powerhead going back and forth, but on and off as well (there might be long periods where certain areas then just get no flow because the powerhead's oscillation and on/off pattern just match up to skip certain areas more)? I think that the coral would rather just go with the plan that gives it more flow. From the tank's perspective as a whole then, the 'randomness' seems to lose meaning as the oscillating movement is the same thing as an on/off timer to the corals at any given point in the tank, only the wave timer means less overall flow. It makes the use of both seem like kind of a waste. Not trying to be critical, just thoughtful here. It just doesnt seem to serve a purpose. It sounds good, but not so good and sound when you start thinking from the coral's POV. To each his own though.


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Unread 07/21/2006, 09:09 PM   #83
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Guys, do you think a single Tunze Turbelle 6060 is too much for a 4FT long tank? (dimensions are 4ft long x 15"deep x 24 high) I have a 3" sand bed


I don't want to create a sandstorm in my tank!


Thanks!


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Unread 07/21/2006, 10:07 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by hahnmeister
I dont know... For the tank as a whole, sure, the randomness of a oscillating mount and a wave timer together sounds good, but think about it from the coral's perspective. Given the choice, would that SPS colony rather get blasted with water once every 30 seconds (or whatever) as the powerhead sweeps back and forth in a reliable pattern, OR, maybe only get half of that because not only is the powerhead going back and forth, but on and off as well (there might be long periods where certain areas then just get no flow because the powerhead's oscillation and on/off pattern just match up to skip certain areas more)? I think that the coral would rather just go with the plan that gives it more flow. From the tank's perspective as a whole then, the 'randomness' seems to lose meaning as the oscillating movement is the same thing as an on/off timer to the corals at any given point in the tank, only the wave timer means less overall flow. It makes the use of both seem like kind of a waste. Not trying to be critical, just thoughtful here. It just doesnt seem to serve a purpose. It sounds good, but not so good and sound when you start thinking from the coral's POV. To each his own though.
This is a good point. However, in the ocean, most places dont have constant flow everywhere... there will be certain wofts, and the current will act alot more randomly than just back and forth, back and forth. I would think if you tossed a ball that has perfect boyency at a certain level into a small reef area, you'd watch it move around different ways, stop... maybe move around a bit, then go again a different way.

Tides can also play a factor in current direction. I would guess that if you are correct, than one could simply turn down the flow at night, or alter how it works. Maybe turn it down to 50% at night from 100% during the day? Or maybe im just way the heck off...


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Unread 07/22/2006, 12:38 AM   #85
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Lol..."Or maybe Im just way the heck off..."

Sorry,but I just got home from a good night out and that gotta be the funniest thing Ive heard all night.

Thats kinda why I said "To each his own" because I can totally see how in some tanks an oscillating output wouldnt do as much at a timer where the flow gets turned on and off to make a surge from one end of the tank to another. For instance, a long and narrow tank like 96x18x18...having oscillating TUNZE's at each end wouldnt do much to vary the flow...its only 18" wide after all. But in opposite/both back corners of a 4'x4'x2'h tank, its freaking awesome. And in some tanks, like you mentioned, when the powerhead faces the short-ways and can blow your sand up the wall its not the right idea. In one tank I had an oscillating mount that I put in after the tank was well established from using an Oceansmotions, and the random flow was in fact waaaay too much. There were just some areas of the tank that got too much current blown right at them. An oscillating mount is a great option for people in the planning stage for most types of setups, and by all means, if you can use it, its a great way to get the most out of the least number of pumps. But for some tanks I can see how it just might not be the best idea. Some parts of the tank are just better off without getting in the arc of the TUNZE's blast as it makes its rotation...like the 'ricordea alley' that some people have. And sometimes seeing that big black plastic thing moving back and forth in a narrower tank can be distracting.


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Unread 07/22/2006, 07:59 PM   #86
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Well said. I guess as you said, to each his own.

Im personally doing a super squirt, and a constant output(that, or the same thing on a wavysea) on my next tank. Still not sure. I would love to be able to mix the wavysea in. I also like the pluses to the super squirt's flow pattern.

Chris


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Unread 07/25/2006, 07:07 PM   #87
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125 aga 72x18x22h considering getting the tunzee's with controller they seeem to get excellent reviews my tank will be only 18 inches high once I get DSB in place would the tunzee's be to much flow causing sand to fly all over the place or not a problem , opions please .thanks in advance


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Unread 07/25/2006, 08:34 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaeden
125 aga 72x18x22h considering getting the tunzee's with controller they seeem to get excellent reviews my tank will be only 18 inches high once I get DSB in place would the tunzee's be to much flow causing sand to fly all over the place or not a problem , opions please .thanks in advance
If you use a course (heavy grain 2mm-4mm) sand and you turn the Streams down to about 50% you should be ok. You will also need to mount the streams high in the tank, so that the majority of the current travels at the middle to top.

If you use a fine grain sand (0mm-1mm) it will blow all over the place, especially in 18" of height.


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Unread 07/25/2006, 09:56 PM   #89
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Dual 6100s should be fine.


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Unread 07/26/2006, 07:35 AM   #90
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I am in the process of setting up a 120 (120" x 24"). I am thinking of using a Tunzee 6000 on a single controller. I will also have a a PanWorld 50 PX-MD30R with a 3/4" Penductor for the return pump. Will I be happy with a singe Tunzee 6000 on a single controller?

I am looking at having a deep sand bed and many LPS.

Any comments on which Tunzee would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris


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Unread 07/26/2006, 08:05 AM   #91
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Get the 6100 tunze and multicontroller i went down the same road and it cost me money to change you save money by getting right the first time.


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Unread 07/26/2006, 08:46 AM   #92
RichConley
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Quote:
Originally posted by RGibson
Get the 6100 tunze and multicontroller i went down the same road and it cost me money to change you save money by getting right the first time.
IIRC, the 6000 plus the transformer to change it into a 6100 are the same cost as the 6100 (and you dont have an extra transformer sitting around in that case) so it actually costs you MORE to do it right the first time.


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Unread 07/26/2006, 09:59 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by RichConley
IIRC, the 6000 plus the transformer to change it into a 6100 are the same cost as the 6100 (and you dont have an extra transformer sitting around in that case) so it actually costs you MORE to do it right the first time.
yup, the transformer is 70 from premium premium aquatics , though they are sold out right now.


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Unread 07/26/2006, 11:13 AM   #94
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I'm glad I read this thread because I didn't know I can convert mine 6000 to 6100 by changing the transformer and this sure will come in handy when I upgrade tank size and I'll have an extra transformer for backup.


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Unread 07/26/2006, 12:11 PM   #95
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that is pretty cool...I didnt know that either. I dont think alot of people do. So, the only diff between th 6000 and 6100 is the RPM of the unit...same outside dimensions, same prop, everything?!?!


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Unread 07/28/2006, 09:26 AM   #96
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Can someone post a link to the DIY swirler stein?

Thanks,
Chris


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Unread 07/28/2006, 10:10 AM   #97
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Ok since nobody wants to answer my simple questions, I just said oh well andbit the bullet... I bought a TUNZE 6060 and the magnet piece. Here's my review:

Bought it from a local LFS..
magnet: $40
Tunze 6060: $140

My tank is a 75G... 2 ft high, 4 ft long and 15" deep. That thing blew all the detritus all over the place. sandstorm indeed. I put a little amount of Kent Marine Clarifier and in about 1 hr the water is crystal clear. I haven't seen any sandstorm ever since.

The Tunze is definitely an upgrade from my Rio 800.

I also learned that they are pronounced "Tan-Zee", not "Toon-seh"

That thing is meticulously crafted. Definitely not cheap plastic powerhead. The manual is well written with perfect grammar (lol)

My GSP's are more open than ever, the clams hate it but my yellow tang likes the "treadmill effect". (he swims in one place while the current blows)

Overall a great product. Definitely worth it.


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Unread 07/28/2006, 11:39 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally posted by xtm

I also learned that they are pronounced "Tan-Zee", not "Toon-seh"
Actually the German pronunciation is indeed Toon-zeh.


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Unread 07/28/2006, 01:13 PM   #99
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In german, its 'Ton' (as in the unit of mass), then 'zuh'...like 'duh, that was dumb...lol'. If it had the two little umlaut dots over the u, then it would be 'Toon' like cartoon. It is commonly excepted in German that english pronunciation of the 'Z' and the vowels following it are not the same, and they are just fine with 'Ton' (unit of mass), then 'Z' like the letter Z. They call a 'Z' like 'Zed', as in BMW 'Zed' 4...but they know we like to follow our Z's with y's and ee's for a different sound. So its not supposed to sound like ton-Z, but its okay. My last name is Mahnke...and if I go to Germany it is pronounced just like 'Famke' the actress... 'Mon-kuh'. But in the states everyone pronounces it with a 'ee' sound at the end which it perfectly fine. You arent going to get made fun of for it or told you are wrong or anything.... most Germans know waaay more about English (and its bleeding into their language) then we do about German. But the Z does sound like a Z, not a S, and there is no 'oo' sound...that would require a 'ue' or umlout.

My woman is from Germany, I just asked her to be sure because my German is based on reading/writing (she just got back from Muenchen yesterday). Anyone want some Aquaconnect 400watt 14,000K's? Lol.


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Unread 07/28/2006, 01:18 PM   #100
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Hahn,

Did she snag any of the Tunze (or Ton - zuh) nanostreams while she was there? If she did, she's a woman worth keeping. =)

Mmmm...Famke Janssen.


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