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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: naperville, IL
Posts: 729
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400 watters without a chiller?
is anyone running 400 watt single ended bulbs without a chiller? im looking to upgrade my lighting over my 120 from 150 watt DE bulbs and Idealy I would like to run 2x 400 watt radiums on a PFO HQI ballasts but I am worried about the heat. worst case I will probably just use 2x 250 watt radiums. the lights would be in a small canopy too, only about 8" high. Do you think this is possible?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 6,596
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I dont think you will be able to cut down on heat that much in a canopy even with fans without a chiller.
I would go with the 250's as 400's would be alot and would really shock the corals in the tank. |
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#3 |
Plumbing Engineer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 3,260
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Fans are your friend!
I have a 400w on my 58g and I dont use a chiller. Just keep a fan blowing under the halide across the top of the water. evaporation will be a bit much, but water is cheap. and get magnetic balast and use 20k XM's, they are cheaper and brighter with about the same color as the radiums and last longer. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: over yonder
Posts: 1,751
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You can absolutely make two 400s work. I have two 400w 10ks and two 110w actinics on my 90 gallon (55 refugium), with one 90mm fan on each end pulling air out of the hood. MH on 8 hours, actinics on 12. I get about a 3 degree swing in temp. You'd have even more temp buffer by having more water.
For a 120 I would personally use 3 250 watt bulbs, but if you want to do 400s I think it is definitely an option. |
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#5 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Central, Fl
Posts: 708
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Quote:
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#6 |
Premium Member
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I have 2x400W SE 10K MH on my 90g with no heat issues, though I haven't had them long enough to go through a hot summer -- things are fine now, but we may need a chiller come June. As EnderG60 mentioned, having a fan move air between the lights and water surface helps a lot. My fixture also has two smaller fans, one at either end, that come on with the actinics.
I run the T5 actinics 11am-11pm, MH 2pm-8pm and the fuge lights 8pm-2pm so they're on 18h/d but off and not contributing extra heat while the MH bulbs are on over the display (fuge light is 2x40W PC; I was running them 24/7 and seeing a 2.5*F swing -- having them off midday really seems to make a difference). Temperature is pretty steady -- 78.5-79F by the end of the 6h MH photoperiod, 78F the rest of the time.
__________________
"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears, or the sea." - Isak Dinesen Current Tank Info: 150g mixed reef, 30g sump/refugium, LED lighting, 100lbs LR, coral beauty, flame angel, blue & yellow tangs, gobies, damsels, 6-line wrasse, lawnmower blenny, dottyback, clown pair, rabbitfish, shrimp, crabs, CUC. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Southern Il.
Posts: 198
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Running two 400 w with 4" fans on each end of canopy blowing in to cool the bulbs. My tank is in the basement, so in the winter I use a heater to maintain temp. 150 gal.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 752
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i think chillers are overrated
![]() Fans are your friends.
__________________
"you work to live, you don't live to work" Current Tank Info: 75g Reef, 100lbs LR, 20g Sump/Fuge, (2)250W 12k Reeflux MHs, (2)110W Actinic VHOs, Dosing DIY 2-part w/ Aquamedic Twin Doser, all controlled by ReefKeeper2 |
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