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#126 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,104
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#127 | |
Premium Member
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Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 2,848
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Quote:
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Roland |
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#128 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 417
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Its a 110
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#129 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 417
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#130 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eatonton,GA.
Posts: 824
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Yeah where did he get the metric union????
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#131 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 121
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On a recirculating model (DNW-200) using a feed pump rather than direct feed, would you mesh mod both pump's impellers?
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#132 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,409
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mesh mod help: i have the otp 1000, which has to laters of rods with needles on them. i broke the first row's needles off and put three layers of mesh on. too much.
put two layers of mesh on. still too much. broke those rods off, got smaller zip ties, put two layers of mesh on. the pump spins, but stops randomly. you know, randomly, like when i put it in water. help? |
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#133 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,409
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can you cut off both layers of needles?
how does this pump move water? it doesnt seem like needlewheels would actually move water anyway! i've put it together and taken it apart about a dozen times now, and i cant see where it even rubs against anything... HELP!!! |
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#134 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wilmington, Ohio
Posts: 3,040
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Quote:
that is indeed a 110....it turns out that a standard SCH 80 2"union will thread right onto the male metric union on the body. Unfortunately it did not work the other way so I had to take the union off of the collection cup and glue a standard union on. that 2"union with just little bit of grinding fit perfectly. I did remove all of that flange inside the new unions so that there weren't as many places for the foam to break on. maybe soneone should try some american unions on some of the other models and see if they'll fit as well. I was relieved when I found out i didn't have to go cutting up the body of the skimmer. BTW 2 1/2" Acrylic( out of my old Seaclone) fits in those unios with a little work on the union. it wasn't too big of a job, took like 30 minutes. I would love to see Rich Conley put a 24"neck extension on his and really let that pump that will pull 60SCFH go to town ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#135 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wilmington, Ohio
Posts: 3,040
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Jeff |
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#136 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: baytown, tx
Posts: 331
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I have the 200 recirc. The airline hooked up to the venturi is 5/16". Would I need to bore out the intake bigger than that??? Right now I have milky bubbles all the way down the body to about 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of the 19" body. I don't have an air meter, but can I expect more out of this setup? I have two layers of mesh on the stock impeller and I bored out the inside of venturi after the 90 degree turn. Trying to decide if I should bore out the entire venturi.
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#137 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,409
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i pulled the 'rubber thingy' out of the cover, and put in on to make sure it was fitting properly. I also have it down to two layers of mesh, and the pump still fails to run (it actually stops) when i put it in water.
any other ideas? |
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#138 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wilmington, Ohio
Posts: 3,040
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Quote:
Jeff |
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#139 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 417
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My pump some times does not start up. I found it is easier to start it up with no water inside. I also discovered that if it is not starting, turning the whole skimmer up side down starts it right. Not very conveniant but it gets it going. Im have trimmed the wheel the best i could. Blowing in the venturi does not work for mine.
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#140 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 417
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My pump some times does not start up. I found it is easier to start it up with no water inside. I also discovered that if it is not starting, turning the whole skimmer up side down starts it right. Not very conveniant but it gets it going. Im have trimmed the wheel the best i could. Blowing in the venturi does not work for mine.
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#141 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 4,262
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Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds. Current Tank Info: 75gal, 20gal sump, 6-54w T5 TEK |
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#142 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bloomington, IL
Posts: 1,045
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I do not have the recirc. My pump starts right up. It is a good thing too since I turn it off when feeding.
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Brad "The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." - Socrates Current Tank Info: 180 gallon Acrylic, 65 gallon custom sump, Octopus Extreme 250, 150 LBS Marco Rock, 2-250 W Phoenix with 4 110 VHO supplement |
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#143 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 417
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Hounddog, Do U have a mesh wheel?
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#144 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bloomington, IL
Posts: 1,045
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Yes I have the mesh mod. Broke off the first layer of pins and added 3 layers of mesh. I also drilled the venturi to fit RO line and drilled the 90 slightly. then notched the RO line so air could go both ways. My meter only goes to 20 and i peg it. I am looking into getting a meter that will read more air.
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Brad "The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." - Socrates Current Tank Info: 180 gallon Acrylic, 65 gallon custom sump, Octopus Extreme 250, 150 LBS Marco Rock, 2-250 W Phoenix with 4 110 VHO supplement |
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#145 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,409
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well, after removing the entire top layer of pins and needles (lol pins and needles) i was able to zip tie 2 layers of mesh.
i also bored out the venturi (after i snapped off the connector playing with the pump...grr...) to 1/4" and put ro/di 1/4 tubing on it. the pump now puts out a mere fraction of what it did before...but at least it runs (albeit not enough to skim anything!). what do i need to explain/show you guys in order to give you an idea of what i did wrong? how can i go about fixing them? (doh!) thanks! tim |
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#146 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Davenport IA
Posts: 2,018
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Quote:
2)What I did. Just wrapped like 5 layer of tefon tape in the groove under the o-ring. |
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#147 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Davenport IA
Posts: 2,018
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Quote:
With out this play the pump is unable to start from a dead stop. This is what is happening alot of times if it won't start. You have to trim the inside of the mesh right around where the plastic nut is. Just make sure your moded impeller still has that stock 1/3 turn of play and you should be good to go. |
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#148 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Davenport IA
Posts: 2,018
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#149 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Paso Robles, Ca
Posts: 1,020
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The Vino Man - I Trade With Wine...Just Ask! Current Tank Info: Small Tank, Lights, Fish; Tangs a whole bunch, 4 False Perculas, 6 rose anemones Mixed Reef. |
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#150 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 1,639
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I think you can find that information in this thread... but maybe before it split.
Also you can check out marinesolutionsinc.com's site for a picture. Most people just use 1.5" Sch40 PVC parts instead of metric ones by either using a rubber boot or silicone.
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Dan The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever. -Jacques Cousteau |
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