Octopus Skimmer Mods

[hounddog01]

Originally posted by timrandlerv10
well, after removing the entire top layer of pins and needles (lol pins and needles) i was able to zip tie 2 layers of mesh.

i also bored out the venturi (after i snapped off the connector playing with the pump...grr...) to 1/4" and put ro/di 1/4 tubing on it.


the pump now puts out a mere fraction of what it did before...but at least it runs (albeit not enough to skim anything!).

what do i need to explain/show you guys in order to give you an idea of what i did wrong?

how can i go about fixing them? (doh!)

thanks!

tim

First what pump do you have. You should be able to get 3 layers of mesh on it.

When you say a mere fraction of what it did? You mean bubbles or what. When I did my mod I thought the same thing. It seemed there were less bubbles in the skimmer chamber but when you put a air meter in it it was pulling 80% more air. The next day when I got up the skimmer cup was full. I had to lower the water level over 2 inches to get the dark skimate.

Let it run for a day or two before you place judgement. Also if you have a air meter how much are you pulling. Should be close to 20 SCFM.

[timrandlerv10]

ok. i'll wait!

when i left though, i had the black riser as far up as it would go, and water only got to the bottom of the neck. it was like as if all the bubbles were popping before they could accumulate or something.

[JCTewks]

Tim, it takes a while for these to break in. I hope you don't come hoe to a house full of water. I had mine surprise me one night when I went to bed frustrated thinking "this thing sucks, I can't get it to work". I woke up the next morning and had wet skimmed about 5 gals from the tank. Once it breaks in it will take off if you've done it right.

Also Tim, PM me if you can't find those thrust washers at HD, I think I have a spare set laying around.

Jeff

[Malifluous]

Originally posted by Covey
Mal and for anyone else having starting problems with the mesh. First off you have to make sure the mesh isn't rubbing. Which it looked like you tried. Second and the thing that most people over look is all magnet drive pumps including these have play built into the impeller. The pump can spin the magnet freely before it hits the stopper built into the inside of pinwheel or paddle wheel.

With out this play the pump is unable to start from a dead stop. This is what is happening alot of times if it won't start. You have to trim the inside of the mesh right around where the plastic nut is. Just make sure your moded impeller still has that stock 1/3 turn of play and you should be good to go.

Covey, I hear what u are saying about the 1/3 of play on the impellor. I have seen this in other pumps.. But the impellor I have in the OTP 1000 has no play. I removed all the mesh to confirm that there is no play in the impellor. The impellor I have has white neeedles/pins on it. Is there another type of implellor that is available that has the "play ".? I think that wouls solve my frozen impellor problems.

[JCTewks]

Originally posted by Malifluous
Covey, I hear what u are saying about the 1/3 of play on the impellor. I have seen this in other pumps.. But the impellor I have in the OTP 1000 has no play. I removed all the mesh to confirm that there is no play in the impellor. The impellor I have has white neeedles/pins on it. Is there another type of implellor that is available that has the "play ".? I think that wouls solve my frozen impellor problems.

Mine also has no play in it. The NW impellers are a rigid design. the stardard bladed impellers have the play in them. I never had trouble starting my pump before the mesh mod. I do believe the issues are either with material rubbing the body or shaft, or that we are just adding to much weight and the pump has a hard time starting in just water. once the air is coming in they run just fine because air is easier to move than water. like i've said earlier, mine youjust have to blow in. I did have some attempts at meshwheels that i couldn't get started even by blowing in. I would pull the impeller out, trim just a little bit off of the mesh and it usually would start by blowing in it. I haven't been able to come up with a meshwheel yet that is worth a crap that I didn't have to kickstart with a lottle air. for me, if they started on their own I was only getting like 10 SCFH. Now I'm at 20 and trying to go even higher.

Jeff

[Covey]

I guess I can't speak for the smaller Octos but the impeller on the OTP-3000 on the larger skimmers has that play built in. Also my MAG drive, maxi-jet and CAP 2200 all have it built in as well.

Are you sure you didn't get anything bound in it or glue on something in all the moding?

I tired at one point to hold the mesh down with a bed of super-glue instead of the wire ties and the glue got in the impeller assemble and seized it. With the impeller glued into one large piece I can tell you that in that form it would not start at all.

[Mr Bojangles]

well I just got my air flow meter and with 2 layers of mesh on the stock NW-200 impeller and the RO tubing venturi I have 25 cfm, dose that sound about right? I am seeing less bubbles in the skimmer but the amount of skimmate looks and makes much more then before

[hounddog01]

Originally posted by Mr Bojangles
well I just got my air flow meter and with 2 layers of mesh on the stock NW-200 impeller and the RO tubing venturi I have 25 cfm, dose that sound about right? I am seeing less bubbles in the skimmer but the amount of skimmate looks and makes much more then before

That sounds about right. That is what mine is doing (i have to guess since my meter only goes up to 20 but it is peged). It takes a while for a foam head to build up (about 2 hours) but I am getting 2x the skimate now than i did and the riser tube is 2 inches lower.

I believe with these two mods this skimmer will compete with ones that cost 3x as much.

[Kurt03]

did you test your air before the rodi venturi?
Just wondering if thats whats limiting mine right now.
I have 3 layers of mesh, nw200, and im pulling around 15scfh

[Kurt03]

Is this what you are using Mr Bojangles?
Just wanna make sure you havent changed it and i missed something.

Originally posted by Mr Bojangles
well I just took a idea from my other modded skimmer and used it on the octo, I drilled the stock on out and put a notch in it so the ro tubing can go straight down, cut it on a angle, a zip tie to keep it upright and wallah! This is seeming to pull more than just the regular drill out and shove a tube in. I get my air meeter any day now and I will let you know what I am getting.

[pluvialis]

Originally posted by Covey
I guess I can't speak for the smaller Octos but the impeller on the OTP-3000 on the larger skimmers has that play built in. Also my MAG drive, maxi-jet and CAP 2200 all have it built in as well.

Are you sure you didn't get anything bound in it or glue on something in all the moding?

I tired at one point to hold the mesh down with a bed of super-glue instead of the wire ties and the glue got in the impeller assemble and seized it. With the impeller glued into one large piece I can tell you that in that form it would not start at all.

For some reason I can not log in as malifluous anymore. But any way, Im the same guy. The impeller on mine would freeze up frequently before I did any mods and I have not used glue so Im sure there is no glue in the impeller. Perhaps some packing is stuck inside? The skimmer is brand new. I can not see anything inside the impleller assembly that would be jammin it. It spins independent of the magnet but only with great force applied.
I spoke to Albert at Aqucave where I got the skimmmer. He said that the OTP 1000 should have play in the impeller and he offered to replace the impeller no problem.

Jeff, I think U may have a broken impleller also. If you got the skimmer from Aquacave, Albert will take care of you and replace the impeller. Ive had similar problems with Ocean runner pumps and these seem to be the same manufacturer.

[JCTewks]

Malifilous, I don't know if the impeller is broken or not....the skimmer is still kicking butt and I ain't complaining about 1 1/2 gal of skimate a week and 20 SCFH out of a dnw 110. I got mine from marine solutions who is about 10 miles from me, and Joe takes good care of me with spare stuff when he's got it. when he gets some more of the venturi elbows in I'm going to try and make a venturi that will get 30 SCFH on the OTP1000 pump. right now I think the venturi is the limiter. I don't need any more air at all, but really, what kind of DIYer are you if you ever get satisfied with what you've got

Jeff

[Mr Bojangles]

Originally posted by Kurt03
did you test your air before the rodi venturi?
Just wondering if thats whats limiting mine right now.
I have 3 layers of mesh, nw200, and im pulling around 15scfh

its the same ro venturi, and no I didn't get to check it before I wish I could have. I am also using to two layers of mesh. Have you tried putting a small air valve in the venturi? I know it sounds wired but it will suck more air. My air meter with full open is 16~17 cfm, but when I pinch it a little it jumps to 25cfm, its funky, but it works

[cthetoy]

Originally posted by Mr Bojangles
well I just got my air flow meter and with 2 layers of mesh on the stock NW-200 impeller and the RO tubing venturi I have 25 cfm, dose that sound about right? I am seeing less bubbles in the skimmer but the amount of skimmate looks and makes much more then before

Great info. Im about to mod my NW200 as well. Did you cut any part of the stock needle wheel before you put the mesh in? Was your mesh the Ekamat material?

[Mr Bojangles]

nope, I did what impur (thanks) did an just zip tied 3 layers on front of the needle wheels. And the material was P4

[hounddog01]

Originally posted by cthetoy
Great info. Im about to mod my NW200 as well. Did you cut any part of the stock needle wheel before you put the mesh in? Was your mesh the Ekamat material?

I removed the first layer of pins on my impeller and modded the venturi like stated before in this thread. I am getting over 20scfh it pegs the 20scfh meter. I figure i am arround 25 or so.

[Mr Bojangles]

Originally posted by Mr Bojangles
nope, I did what impur (thanks) did an just zip tied 3 layers on front of the needle wheels. And the material was P4

my bad, All I did was 2 layers, not three

[curtisk]

Anybody here using the new needlwheel quads?




J/K...It's something I modded. I guess it's pulling more air 'cause before I did this I could never run my airline wide open. I had to restrict it almost to the point where it was completely closed off. Now I can run it wide open. Although I'm not seeing any difference in the amount of skimmate. Oh well. Doesn't hurt to try.

[newreef8584]

I am going to be going to Lake Placid for a few days and am in need of a Gate Valve for a mod. These are nearly unobtainable north of the border. I could order one through Savco but shipping will exceed the part. Anyone know where is a good place to go looking fro one in Lake Placid?

As well, any good LFS's in that area?

[Papajin]

Originally posted by newreef8584
I am going to be going to Lake Placid for a few days and am in need of a Gate Valve for a mod. These are nearly unobtainable north of the border. I could order one through Savco but shipping will exceed the part. Anyone know where is a good place to go looking fro one in Lake Placid?

As well, any good LFS's in that area?

Even shipping via US postal service? I always thought it was fairly reasonable to Canada. Regardless, I've personally found it exceedingly difficult to find gate valves locally anyplace, as it's not something you normally find stocked in a plumbing section.

One alternative that you might consider if possible, is to buy through a place like Savko, and have it shipped to an address in Lake Placid where you'll be able to pick it up while you're there. I bet you could even arrange to have it shipped to a parcel store of some sort and have them hold it for you.

[kroe]

I just tried the enkemat mod and the wattage draw doesn't seem right... Did I do something wrong?

I have a NW-200. The NW was the two row impeller. I broke the outer row off, left the inner row on (including the nubs)cut two squares of enkemat, and zip tied them to the impeller with a small zip tie every other rung of the impeller. I then cut the enkemat to the size of the impeller and trimmed any danglers.

It is pulling 65 watts on my kill-a-watt. I didn't get a baseling reading, but this seems too high. Did I do something wrong? The foam seems good, but the wattage draw should drop from stock, right?

Before I modified the venturi with 1/4" PEX it was pulling 99 watts, so if anyone has the stock venturi with the mesh wheel definitely do the venturi mod.

[Roland Jacques]

65 watts is right about normal for that pump.

[hounddog01]

You should try 3 layers. I do not know what it KWH it pulls but mine pulls over 20SCFH of air. I think that is much more important than KWH since it is the amount of air that makes them work.

[rleechb]

anyone know where to buy a new venturi? After drilling mine out, even though the intake is louder, the skimmer doesn't seem to perform as well; I wish I hadn't done it.

[Mr Bojangles]

Originally posted by rleechb
anyone know where to buy a new venturi? After drilling mine out, even though the intake is louder, the skimmer doesn't seem to perform as well; I wish I hadn't done it.

its sounds goofy, but you need to put a air valve or something in the intake tube to slow the air down just a but, I did the same thing and thought the same thing until someone told me to do this and it works like a champ