My story of t-5 and MH... - Page 5

hahnmeister · 02/14/2007, 12:57 PM

"Possibly the best" >>> I think they are trying to say "Best that we know of", or "the best so far"... then thats what they should have said! The AS bulbs do show to have about a 7% advantage over the ATIs, but there are really only 2 bulbs you can compare 1:1... the ATI blue+ 20,000K vs. the AS blue 22,000K. They look identical. And the other bulb is the Aquablue... the AS being rated a 15,000K, and the ATI at 12,000K. These bulbs do look different in person from one another.

The Grim Reefer · 02/14/2007, 03:07 PM

Where you getting the 7% number from?

hahnmeister · 02/14/2007, 11:42 PM

The lux meter comparisons that korallenriff.de was doing. I know, I know... its a Lux meter... but lux is still part of PAR, so its not like it doesnt count. The AS bulbs would have to put out staggering amounts of warmer light to get that kind of lux advantage and not have a proportional advantage in PAR as well... I just dont see it happening. The color comparisons I have seen (photos of bulbs side by side) show the AS to be bluer.

I know someone with the AS 15,000Ks... bluer than the 11,000K or ATI 12,000Ks.

I was going to get a selection of 36" AquaScience bulbs to compare to the others I have, but the time table for my new reef has been pushed up... significantly. It looks like Ill be getting my 4x54watt FM units within the next few weeks (any time is good for me actually)... so before I even get the 3' bulbs, I may not need them anymore because that tank will be replaced by the new 48"x30"x20"h reef. Sorry, but Im excited! Thats a 120g (but short and deep), lit with 8x54watt T5s ( I was just going to do 4 or 6 bulbs, but the FMs are only 8" thick... thinner than if I used retrofit IC reflectors of a fewer number. And then on top of that, I will have a single halide moving back and forth 3' with a 250wattDE halide. Throw in the tunze 6100's, and I have a Reef! Oh, and the DIY 54" tall skimmer I made to be fed directly by the overflow. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the custom steel stand... just finalizing the design with the mfg.

But I look to have this whole thing done by the end of March... at the latest. So... anyone want a 10 month old 6x39watt Tek light when that time comes?

Say goodbye to my SLS Tek!

reefgeek84 · 02/15/2007, 01:54 AM

Ok, so Grim was talking about a 3k bulb for t-5's adding an intersting dynamic to the tank. Does this go for any 3k bulb. I have a set of 70w with 3k bulbs...Would these do any good?

The Grim Reefer · 02/15/2007, 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hahnmeister
The lux meter comparisons that korallenriff.de was doing. I know, I know... its a Lux meter... but lux is still part of PAR, so its not like it doesnt count. The AS bulbs would have to put out staggering amounts of warmer light to get that kind of lux advantage and not have a proportional advantage in PAR as well... I just dont see it happening. The color comparisons I have seen (photos of bulbs side by side) show the AS to be bluer.

I know someone with the AS 15,000Ks... bluer than the 11,000K or ATI 12,000Ks.

I was going to get a selection of 36" AquaScience bulbs to compare to the others I have, but the time table for my new reef has been pushed up... significantly. It looks like Ill be getting my 4x54watt FM units within the next few weeks (any time is good for me actually)... so before I even get the 3' bulbs, I may not need them anymore because that tank will be replaced by the new 48"x30"x20"h reef. Sorry, but Im excited! Thats a 120g (but short and deep), lit with 8x54watt T5s ( I was just going to do 4 or 6 bulbs, but the FMs are only 8" thick... thinner than if I used retrofit IC reflectors of a fewer number. And then on top of that, I will have a single halide moving back and forth 3' with a 250wattDE halide. Throw in the tunze 6100's, and I have a Reef! Oh, and the DIY 54" tall skimmer I made to be fed directly by the overflow. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the custom steel stand... just finalizing the design with the mfg.

But I look to have this whole thing done by the end of March... at the latest. So... anyone want a 10 month old 6x39watt Tek light when that time comes?

Say goodbye to my SLS Tek!

Not only were they using the lux meter, THEY WEREN'T USING AN EQUAL MIX OF LAMPS. The AS Special they used in that test are not the same type of lamp as the Aquablue, it is a daylight type lamp with it highest peak right around 550nm which is right were the lux meter is attinuated to. Remember in the article they mentioned the AS side didn't look as blue?

This is the plot for the "15000K" special, dont look much like an aquablue to me.

Here's the plot for their "15000K" Duo. Look Familiar?

Here is the plot for the Giesemann Aquablue

I am not sure what the 15000K special is, appears to be a new lamp. Could be a very sweet lamp but measuring its lux against an aquablue is hardly a credible measure of which line of lamps is better.

This is the Giesemann Midday

Obviously different from the specials. As far as the aquablues and Actinic Pluses I really doubt there is any difference between the G-mann and the AS seeing as how they are made by the same Company.

I will know tommorrow, I got the stuff set up to measure PAR on the lamps.

The Grim Reefer · 02/15/2007, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by reefgeek84
Ok, so Grim was talking about a 3k bulb for t-5's adding an intersting dynamic to the tank. Does this go for any 3k bulb. I have a set of 70w with 3k bulbs...Would these do any good?

It depends what you are running with the 3K's. T5's have so much blue and green output there isn't much red being prouced so it makes a noticable difference.

reefgeek84 · 02/15/2007, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
It depends what you are running with the 3K's. T5's have so much blue and green output there isn't much red being prouced so it makes a noticable difference.

Very interesting...thanks.

The Grim Reefer · 02/16/2007, 10:12 AM

I did the test of the Aquascience lamps and the result are intereting to say the least. I am going to try this again because the results are a bit perplexing.

I decided to test the ATI Blue Plus against the AS Blue because I had a brand spanking new ATI lamp here to make it a fare test. The result wasn't shocking considering I had suspected the AS lamps are the same as the Giesemann. ATI 577, AS 522. That is a bit closer than the ATI vs Giesemann comparison I did before.

The weird thing is the AS Special only managed 536 and the Duo, which is about the ame thing as an Aquablue only did 522. It appears the AS blue lamp provides as much PAR as either of their other lamps. I am going to do another test and post up a new threa once I am convinced the numbers are legit. Just wantd to post back to this thread cause I said I was going to.

The Grim Reefer · 02/16/2007, 10:15 AM

Opps

wharfrat48 · 02/20/2007, 09:31 PM

Don't mean to hijack but this thread has brought up a question: I have a 75 with a 6x54 T5 set up which I have been very happy with. I'm doing a slow upgrade to a 180g and was planning to use my current T5's and add 2 80W T5's in a staggered layout. After reading this thread I was thinking that maybe I could supplement my current T5 set up with a couple of halides instead. Does this sound like a good idea? Would it be possible to fit this type of set-up over a 180g? I have zero experience with halides---any idea what type I should get?

Thanks

The Grim Reefer · 02/20/2007, 11:59 PM

Halide T5 combos are the schnitze if you got the room. I think you can fit them in a 180. Why don't you start a thread in the large tank forum asking about it.

hahnmeister · 02/21/2007, 12:50 AM

180g? 3x250wattDE with 4x80wattT5. Run Ushio 14,000Ks for the halides and 2x blue+ and 2x super actinics for the T5s. Best combo I know of for reefing... period. Unless you want to bring light movers into the program for those halides to move back and forth over the tank on, or sola-tubes/skylights.

Since you already have the 54watters, you can stagger the T5s like so...

...but with 3 halides instead. As long as your halide pendants arent more than say... 9" wide, you should be able to squeeze 6 rows of T5s in with 2.5" wide reflectors. If you get IC reflectors, you can overlap them at the lip so they are only 2.25" wide.

That pic is from when I was considering a 180 with only two halides and mostly T5s... it can be done if you angle the pendants inwards just outside the two cross-braces on an AGA. But you get the idea for the T5s at least. Yes, it can be done.

wharfrat48 · 02/21/2007, 08:28 AM

Thanks for the replies. I would probably go exactly with the diagram above. One of the reasons I went T5 on my 75 was the heat issue. If I go with 2 halides I assume I'll need a chiller?

hahnmeister · 02/21/2007, 09:33 AM

nah... just keep the air moving over the water surface and evaporative cooling will keep that tank cool.

servicky · 02/21/2007, 10:34 AM

Exactly... I am doing on my 60x24x24 3-250 watt ushio 10ks and 4-48 inch t-5 actinics... hope this will pan out to be a good combination.... any input..

3-250 watt pfo minis on there electronic ballasts
ice cap 660 on there reflectors and endcaps with there UV bulbs..

b16drag · 02/25/2007, 06:24 PM

Crazy informative thread. Gonna be bookmarking this one!

Rhodesholar · 04/10/2007, 07:07 PM

Great thread. Most informative and civil I have seen on these matters. Kudos to all involved.

I wanted to throw something out here and this question is simply that, a question and I think I know the answer however I want to hear from the masses. Why has the trend for lighting been more toward the higher end of the K spectrum? I rarely if ever hear anyone say they have tried say 6500k and lower for any length of time and posted results. I know the overall color rendition has to be brutal, but that aside, what kind of corals can this spectrum grow? Another thing I have not heard mentioned (if it has forgive me) is specific lighting schemes for specific types of corals/colors. I read some where that pinks and reds like lower K temps and blues and purples like higher? Anyone care to comment?

Is it possible that T-5 grows certains corals better and MH others? Lets take into consideration that corals grow where the conditions are most favorable to them. So is it possible some just naturally prefer one light source to another and thus the debate will never come to conclusion because the conclusion is both are right?

I was under the impression that SPS colorations are partially formed as protection from UV. So therefore, does it not seem logical that we should be trying to hit them with comparable UV to what they would see in nature? Which brings us to the lower K bulbs for the PAR and spectrum.

Just food for thought, discussion, debate.

reefgeek84 · 04/10/2007, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rhodesholar
Great thread. Most informative and civil I have seen on these matters. Kudos to all involved.

I wanted to throw something out here and this question is simply that, a question and I think I know the answer however I want to hear from the masses. Why has the trend for lighting been more toward the higher end of the K spectrum? I rarely if ever hear anyone say they have tried say 6500k and lower for any length of time and posted results. I know the overall color rendition has to be brutal, but that aside, what kind of corals can this spectrum grow? Another thing I have not heard mentioned (if it has forgive me) is specific lighting schemes for specific types of corals/colors. I read some where that pinks and reds like lower K temps and blues and purples like higher? Anyone care to comment?

Is it possible that T-5 grows certains corals better and MH others? Lets take into consideration that corals grow where the conditions are most favorable to them. So is it possible some just naturally prefer one light source to another and thus the debate will never come to conclusion because the conclusion is both are right?

I was under the impression that SPS colorations are partially formed as protection from UV. So therefore, does it not seem logical that we should be trying to hit them with comparable UV to what they would see in nature? Which brings us to the lower K bulbs for the PAR and spectrum.

Just food for thought, discussion, debate.

I think alot of people compare higher end spectrum, due to the fact that most people use 10k and above...

If we went with a lower K, it would yeild better growth, however, we would not see the color of the corals that we all love so much...I do not think that a higher K or lower K, will improve or hinder the health of the coral....

Rhodesholar · 04/10/2007, 07:23 PM

But reefgeek that is my point. Does anyone know for sure? Maybe 5500-6500k grows awesome pinks and reds? I don't know it just seems higher K as you stated 10 and over is the de facto standard. I am sure there is a reason, I would like to hear from practical experience why......

And thanks for starting this thread, it is great. Very civil, quality debate.

engagg · 04/10/2007, 09:30 PM

Great thread!

I was thinking of ditching my t5s and going halide, but I may do both.

Any halides I could squueze into a 75 with 4 t5s?

Greg

oct2274 · 04/10/2007, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by reefgeek84
So I feel there is so much bias involved with this whole debate. I think everyone either does not want to try something else or they have tried something and they are not happy about it, but do not want to admit they are wrong. I will not be arguing par here, that is not the intention of this thread or whether or not T-5's can grow SPS or not, bottom line they can. however...

My story... I had a 50gal tank that I went with MH over, I then upgraded to a 120gal. I read through every post I could find that discussed this long drawn out debate. I finally decided to go with T-5's for many reasons...
-More color options
-Less heat
-Less electricity
-Cheaper cost of bulbs
-longer life of bulbs (this is a debate in itself depending who you ask)

So I picked up a 8 lamp tek t-5 fixture and URI bulbs (some of the best par that comes out of t- lights) the combo was

2-super actinics
2-GE daylights
2-Actinic whites (12k)
2-AquaSun (10K)

What I noticed... Decent growth...colors were pale and bland, they did not "pop"...as for the things I wanted from going t-5's

-More color options- colors did not look that good
-Less heat- Since t-5's had to be so close to the water (most say 2-3") they still produced heat and raised the tank temp, so I had to get a chiller
-Less electricityIt saved some but with my new set up, it would only draw about 10 bucks less a month
-Cheaper cost of bulbsnot really, at 23 bucks a bulb without shipping, that comes to 184 bucks
-longer life of bulbs (this is a debate in itself depending who you ask)Again debatable

So I talked with Travis at Upscales www.upscales.com, who is local to me and has two of the most impressive show tanks in the hobby, originator of the oregon tort and others. I talked with him on his thoughts of the whole lighting debate. He told me he would never go with t-5's, halides just give the coral the extra "umph" in both color and growth. So after much debate in my head...I picked up a dual 400w SE set up.

I love it, I will never go back to t-5's or run anything else. The color is so much better and the corals just "pop" more then the t-5's could dream of doing.

As for my reasons for going t-5's the halides do not have the cons that I thought they would.

I had to have a chiller either way, bulbs are cheaper for a dual set up and my color is way better. MH wins...

I would have no problem admitting that I was wrong in going the halides if that was the case, however it is not the case.

I hope that this helps someone else out in their decision. Please do not think that I am not saying t-5's can not grow SPS, they can for sure and do...I just think the look is not very good and in this hobby that is what it is all about.

if someone has any questions, feel free to ask.

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Your choice of bulbs was aweful if you were looking for good color. You really should have asked around about bulb choices before switching back to halides. You definitely needed to replace atleast two of the white bulbs with ati blue plue bulbs. You tried one set of bulbs and than told everyone that T5's suck basically. Should have thought this through before posting. I do admit halides are nice too, I have T5's supplementing my 10k halides which look aweful without my T5's. As with T5's, halides can look like crap if you don't pick the bulb choice that makes you happy.

reefgeek84 · 04/10/2007, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by oct2274
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Your choice of bulbs was aweful if you were looking for good color. You really should have asked around about bulb choices before switching back to halides. You definitely needed to replace atleast two of the white bulbs with ati blue plue bulbs. You tried one set of bulbs and than told everyone that T5's suck basically. Should have thought this through before posting. I do admit halides are nice too, I have T5's supplementing my 10k halides which look aweful without my T5's. As with T5's, halides can look like crap if you don't pick the bulb choice that makes you happy.

I should have thought my post through before posting...this post has gotten more compliments then any lighting thread I have ever seen. I would prefer if you do not post again unless you want to be nice about it.

as for my bulb choice...please read every post I wrote, I also said that I have seen many, many t-5 tanks with different bulb combos, due to a couple of LFS's having them on their tanks...So I did not just post about my bulbs but others...and I am not the only one in this thread that made the switch and liked it. I can assure you that an extra two bulbs would not take away the pastel and dullness that the t-5's offered. which was my complaint, not overall color. As for you running 10k's with out your t-5's and it looking bad, yes maybe color wise, but not intensity wise.

I do not like the color and will not go back to t-5's no matter what bulb choice I had.

But again, this post is for helpful people not rude people, so please refrain from posting and please read mine and other peoples threads completely and all of mine as well as everyone who posted.

kodyboy · 04/10/2007, 11:30 PM

I really like my T-5s, and greatly prefer their coloration and intensity to my old metal halides (but I do miss the shimmer). To each their own

oct2274 · 04/10/2007, 11:52 PM

actually those two bulbs would have done exactly that.........I had the same issue as you when i got my T5's. Dull and no pop. Got the ati blue plus in addition to the UV SuperActinics, which every T5's lover recommends, and voila, instant happiness. Like I said, you should have read, tried more bulb combinations, and asked alot more before posting something that is absolutely incorrect and not educated. If you are thinking about T5's don't listen to this. Its absolutely rediculous to listen to someone that tried one bulb combination and say something isn't good. If that was the case I would have tossed my 10k halides out the door the first time I turned them on. There are many educated T5 users out there that can help you choose the right bulb combinations depending on the application you need. Here are a couple of threads that are useful in getting the right T5 combinations for your application and liking:
this one shows different pictures of user tanks and people talk about the bulb combinations they used http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1
.
and this one is probably the best. shows par readings of various bulbs from someone that actually tried all the different bulbs and knows which ones will give you results you are looking for
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...5&pagenumber=1

.
I'm sorry you had a bad experience with T5, but you should have asked for help with your setup before totally switching out to halides and trying to tell people that halides are better than T5...........I personally like both.

kodyboy · 04/11/2007, 12:01 AM

I really like the actinic + (geissman) and 6500K (geissman) the 6500's provide the intensity and PAR while the actinic + provides a nice blue color. This combo also grows everything down to my sandbed, although some acros color up more near the top of the rocks. I have 5 39 watt t5s (aquactinics fixture) over a 92 bowfront, works better (for me) than 2 250 watt halides.

02/14/2007, 03:07 PM	#102
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	Where you getting the 7% number from? __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

02/16/2007, 10:12 AM	#108
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	I did the test of the Aquascience lamps and the result are intereting to say the least. I am going to try this again because the results are a bit perplexing. I decided to test the ATI Blue Plus against the AS Blue because I had a brand spanking new ATI lamp here to make it a fare test. The result wasn't shocking considering I had suspected the AS lamps are the same as the Giesemann. ATI 577, AS 522. That is a bit closer than the ATI vs Giesemann comparison I did before. The weird thing is the AS Special only managed 536 and the Duo, which is about the ame thing as an Aquablue only did 522. It appears the AS blue lamp provides as much PAR as either of their other lamps. I am going to do another test and post up a new threa once I am convinced the numbers are legit. Just wantd to post back to this thread cause I said I was going to. __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

02/16/2007, 10:15 AM	#109
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	Opps __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

02/20/2007, 11:59 PM	#111
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	Halide T5 combos are the schnitze if you got the room. I think you can fit them in a 180. Why don't you start a thread in the large tank forum asking about it. __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

02/21/2007, 12:50 AM	#112
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	180g? 3x250wattDE with 4x80wattT5. Run Ushio 14,000Ks for the halides and 2x blue+ and 2x super actinics for the T5s. Best combo I know of for reefing... period. Unless you want to bring light movers into the program for those halides to move back and forth over the tank on, or sola-tubes/skylights. Since you already have the 54watters, you can stagger the T5s like so... ...but with 3 halides instead. As long as your halide pendants arent more than say... 9" wide, you should be able to squeeze 6 rows of T5s in with 2.5" wide reflectors. If you get IC reflectors, you can overlap them at the lip so they are only 2.25" wide. That pic is from when I was considering a 180 with only two halides and mostly T5s... it can be done if you angle the pendants inwards just outside the two cross-braces on an AGA. But you get the idea for the T5s at least. Yes, it can be done. Last edited by hahnmeister; 02/21/2007 at 01:03 AM.

02/14/2007, 12:57 PM	#101
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	"Possibly the best" >>> I think they are trying to say "Best that we know of", or "the best so far"... then thats what they should have said! The AS bulbs do show to have about a 7% advantage over the ATIs, but there are really only 2 bulbs you can compare 1:1... the ATI blue+ 20,000K vs. the AS blue 22,000K. They look identical. And the other bulb is the Aquablue... the AS being rated a 15,000K, and the ATI at 12,000K. These bulbs do look different in person from one another.

02/14/2007, 11:42 PM	#103
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	The lux meter comparisons that korallenriff.de was doing. I know, I know... its a Lux meter... but lux is still part of PAR, so its not like it doesnt count. The AS bulbs would have to put out staggering amounts of warmer light to get that kind of lux advantage and not have a proportional advantage in PAR as well... I just dont see it happening. The color comparisons I have seen (photos of bulbs side by side) show the AS to be bluer. I know someone with the AS 15,000Ks... bluer than the 11,000K or ATI 12,000Ks. I was going to get a selection of 36" AquaScience bulbs to compare to the others I have, but the time table for my new reef has been pushed up... significantly. It looks like Ill be getting my 4x54watt FM units within the next few weeks (any time is good for me actually)... so before I even get the 3' bulbs, I may not need them anymore because that tank will be replaced by the new 48"x30"x20"h reef. Sorry, but Im excited! Thats a 120g (but short and deep), lit with 8x54watt T5s ( I was just going to do 4 or 6 bulbs, but the FMs are only 8" thick... thinner than if I used retrofit IC reflectors of a fewer number. And then on top of that, I will have a single halide moving back and forth 3' with a 250wattDE halide. Throw in the tunze 6100's, and I have a Reef! Oh, and the DIY 54" tall skimmer I made to be fed directly by the overflow. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the custom steel stand... just finalizing the design with the mfg. But I look to have this whole thing done by the end of March... at the latest. So... anyone want a 10 month old 6x39watt Tek light when that time comes? Say goodbye to my SLS Tek!

02/15/2007, 01:54 AM	#104
reefgeek84 Moved On Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Portlan, OR Posts: 997	Ok, so Grim was talking about a 3k bulb for t-5's adding an intersting dynamic to the tank. Does this go for any 3k bulb. I have a set of 70w with 3k bulbs...Would these do any good?

02/20/2007, 09:31 PM	#110
wharfrat48 Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 468	Don't mean to hijack but this thread has brought up a question: I have a 75 with a 6x54 T5 set up which I have been very happy with. I'm doing a slow upgrade to a 180g and was planning to use my current T5's and add 2 80W T5's in a staggered layout. After reading this thread I was thinking that maybe I could supplement my current T5 set up with a couple of halides instead. Does this sound like a good idea? Would it be possible to fit this type of set-up over a 180g? I have zero experience with halides---any idea what type I should get? Thanks

02/21/2007, 08:28 AM	#113
wharfrat48 Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 468	Thanks for the replies. I would probably go exactly with the diagram above. One of the reasons I went T5 on my 75 was the heat issue. If I go with 2 halides I assume I'll need a chiller?

02/21/2007, 09:33 AM	#114
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	nah... just keep the air moving over the water surface and evaporative cooling will keep that tank cool.

02/21/2007, 10:34 AM	#115
servicky Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: seattle Posts: 178	Exactly... I am doing on my 60x24x24 3-250 watt ushio 10ks and 4-48 inch t-5 actinics... hope this will pan out to be a good combination.... any input.. 3-250 watt pfo minis on there electronic ballasts ice cap 660 on there reflectors and endcaps with there UV bulbs..

02/25/2007, 06:24 PM	#116
b16drag Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: California Posts: 903	Crazy informative thread. Gonna be bookmarking this one!

04/10/2007, 07:07 PM	#117
Rhodesholar Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Crivitz Wi Posts: 754	Great thread. Most informative and civil I have seen on these matters. Kudos to all involved. I wanted to throw something out here and this question is simply that, a question and I think I know the answer however I want to hear from the masses. Why has the trend for lighting been more toward the higher end of the K spectrum? I rarely if ever hear anyone say they have tried say 6500k and lower for any length of time and posted results. I know the overall color rendition has to be brutal, but that aside, what kind of corals can this spectrum grow? Another thing I have not heard mentioned (if it has forgive me) is specific lighting schemes for specific types of corals/colors. I read some where that pinks and reds like lower K temps and blues and purples like higher? Anyone care to comment? Is it possible that T-5 grows certains corals better and MH others? Lets take into consideration that corals grow where the conditions are most favorable to them. So is it possible some just naturally prefer one light source to another and thus the debate will never come to conclusion because the conclusion is both are right? I was under the impression that SPS colorations are partially formed as protection from UV. So therefore, does it not seem logical that we should be trying to hit them with comparable UV to what they would see in nature? Which brings us to the lower K bulbs for the PAR and spectrum. Just food for thought, discussion, debate.

04/10/2007, 07:23 PM	#119
Rhodesholar Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Crivitz Wi Posts: 754	But reefgeek that is my point. Does anyone know for sure? Maybe 5500-6500k grows awesome pinks and reds? I don't know it just seems higher K as you stated 10 and over is the de facto standard. I am sure there is a reason, I would like to hear from practical experience why...... And thanks for starting this thread, it is great. Very civil, quality debate.

04/10/2007, 09:30 PM	#120
engagg Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mountains of Montana Posts: 236	Great thread! I was thinking of ditching my t5s and going halide, but I may do both. Any halides I could squueze into a 75 with 4 t5s? Greg

04/10/2007, 11:30 PM	#123
kodyboy Moved On Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 2,990	I really like my T-5s, and greatly prefer their coloration and intensity to my old metal halides (but I do miss the shimmer). To each their own

04/10/2007, 11:52 PM	#124
oct2274 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 2,347	actually those two bulbs would have done exactly that.........I had the same issue as you when i got my T5's. Dull and no pop. Got the ati blue plus in addition to the UV SuperActinics, which every T5's lover recommends, and voila, instant happiness. Like I said, you should have read, tried more bulb combinations, and asked alot more before posting something that is absolutely incorrect and not educated. If you are thinking about T5's don't listen to this. Its absolutely rediculous to listen to someone that tried one bulb combination and say something isn't good. If that was the case I would have tossed my 10k halides out the door the first time I turned them on. There are many educated T5 users out there that can help you choose the right bulb combinations depending on the application you need. Here are a couple of threads that are useful in getting the right T5 combinations for your application and liking: this one shows different pictures of user tanks and people talk about the bulb combinations they used http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1 . and this one is probably the best. shows par readings of various bulbs from someone that actually tried all the different bulbs and knows which ones will give you results you are looking for http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...5&pagenumber=1 . I'm sorry you had a bad experience with T5, but you should have asked for help with your setup before totally switching out to halides and trying to tell people that halides are better than T5...........I personally like both. Last edited by oct2274; 04/10/2007 at 11:58 PM.

04/11/2007, 12:01 AM	#125
kodyboy Moved On Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 2,990	I really like the actinic + (geissman) and 6500K (geissman) the 6500's provide the intensity and PAR while the actinic + provides a nice blue color. This combo also grows everything down to my sandbed, although some acros color up more near the top of the rocks. I have 5 39 watt t5s (aquactinics fixture) over a 92 bowfront, works better (for me) than 2 250 watt halides.