Many Questions, who can help???

[Racso]

Lets start out with the info you'll need, all tests were done with either two or three test kits and these are the averages:

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: <10
pH: 8.35
Alk: ~5.5 meq/L (Yes, I know, high)
Calcium: one test = ~460ppm another test was ~490ppm
Phos: <0.2
Temp: ~77
SG: 1.024

75 Gal
Fluval 304: just foam (cleaned regularly)
Fluval 404: just foam (cleaned regularly)
H.O.T. Magnum: only carbon, no foam sleeve (changed regularly)
Seaclone 150 (working well)
Current Orbit (2 x 65 dual daylight, 2 x 65 dual actinic)

90 to 100 lbs Fiji LR
About 1" of crushed coral, but I want to switch to sand
Asst. Leathers
Green Star Polyps
Yellow Polyps
Zoas
Mushrooms
Coral Banded Shrimp (I want out)
4 to 6 hermits
5 Turbo Snails

Coral Beauty
Tiny Brown Scopas Tang
3 x PJ Cardinals
Lawnmower Blenny
Sixline Wrasse (want out)
Mandarin
Ocellaris Clown

Coral Accel: every other day
Essential Elements: weekly
Coral Vite: weekly
Kent "Superbuffer DKH" powder to waterchange water
Instant Ocean Salt

Water changes are done sporadically, however at BARE minimum, 5 gallons every other week. (More often I do about 10 gallons a week)

I got this tank about 3 months ago for very cheap, and I moved most of my 46 gallon stuff to this tank. However, for about a week, the 46 was completely neglected (timer failed and light stayed on for 8 days straight, filters had issues, so on and so forth, and no coral was happy AT ALL). Most of the corals are coming back ok, and only one fish died from the issue!!

OK! Now that you know everything about my tank, lets get to the questions:

Coraline algae. Obviously I had an algae issue with the light being on for a week straight, and all the rock was covered. Now that its back in control (thanks to proper care, low nitrates and phosphates) the coraline algae should be growing well again. However, it is not. Not a SINGLE bit has started to grow on the glass, and whats on the rocks really isn't growing either. I tried purple up for a few weeks, then read about its problems, so I just recently stopped (it is what I am contributing to the high alk). Any ideas?

Mushroom polyps. They seem to be OK, except for them not opening. I have a chunk of LR (about 25 to 30lbs) that is covered with them, and if they all open wide, you can't even see the rock. The problem is that they are no longer opening. And the way the rock is shaped and placed, they very in the amount of light they get. Ones at the top get full light, and ones at the very bottom are completely in the shade unless they open big, and everything in between. I also have some mushrooms on other rocks that are having the same problem, so its not just this rock or species. I'm clueless.

Growing Pods. I had a lot of flatworms (Sixline didn't do anything) in my tank and my mandarin totally destroyed the population. I mean as soon as I put her in there, she started wolfing them down. Now, about a week after I got her, I can't find more than 10 flatworms throughout the tank. I got her from someone who said she was eating brine, but she hasn't touched any since I've had her. I've been rearranging my tank to make some LR piles for pods to grow in, but I don't know if I have enough pods to really get the tank full of them again. What is the best way to get a LOT of pods back into my tank.

Correcting Mistakes. I want to get the Banded Shrimp out and get some Cleaners or Peppermint. I originally got the Shrimp to take out bristle worms... which now I know I want. I also got the Sixline to take care of flatworms, which it didn't. First, what is the best way to catch a fish (sixline), the shrimp will be easy enough for me. Second, is there a way I can buy bristleworms?

Adding a fuge. Making a hang-on refugium looks very easy, and I could probably do it myself and get glass cut by a glazier, but if anyone knows of somewhere to get a CHEAP one, that would be great.

Also, ANY advice would be appreciated. I've been keeping this reef in one tank or another for about 3 years now, and I have learned a lot. I (obviously) made some mistakes in buying fish to correct problems, and now I know so much more, but these are just some things that I'm a little stumped on.

[Racso]

hello???

I won't mind if you just answer one...

And sorry, I know its a lot. I just felt I would answer as many questions as possible before they are asked...

[reefshadow]

Coraline algae. Obviously I had an algae issue with the light being on for a week straight, and all the rock was covered. Now that its back in control (thanks to proper care, low nitrates and phosphates) the coraline algae should be growing well again. However, it is not. Not a SINGLE bit has started to grow on the glass, and whats on the rocks really isn't growing either. I tried purple up for a few weeks, then read about its problems, so I just recently stopped (it is what I am contributing to the high alk). Any ideas?

Hmmm, phosphate is a bit high, may contribute to slow growth. Magnesium may be low, can you test? Temp could use a bump up to 80, IMO (don't know if that has anything to do with coralline though)

Mushroom polyps. They seem to be OK, except for them not opening. I have a chunk of LR (about 25 to 30lbs) that is covered with them, and if they all open wide, you can't even see the rock. The problem is that they are no longer opening. And the way the rock is shaped and placed, they very in the amount of light they get. Ones at the top get full light, and ones at the very bottom are completely in the shade unless they open big, and everything in between. I also have some mushrooms on other rocks that are having the same problem, so its not just this rock or species. I'm clueless.

Again, look at lowering phosphate. Check flow to affected mushrooms, they don't like to be blasted IME. If light was changed significantly this could effect them as well.

Growing Pods. I had a lot of flatworms (Sixline didn't do anything) in my tank and my mandarin totally destroyed the population. I mean as soon as I put her in there, she started wolfing them down. Now, about a week after I got her, I can't find more than 10 flatworms throughout the tank. I got her from someone who said she was eating brine, but she hasn't touched any since I've had her. I've been rearranging my tank to make some LR piles for pods to grow in, but I don't know if I have enough pods to really get the tank full of them again. What is the best way to get a LOT of pods back into my tank.

Decide between the sixline and mandarin.It looks like you have already come to the conclusion that you need a fuge, yahoo! Good for alot, IME. Others can help you more than I can with design.

Correcting Mistakes. I want to get the Banded Shrimp out and get some Cleaners or Peppermint. I originally got the Shrimp to take out bristle worms... which now I know I want. I also got the Sixline to take care of flatworms, which it didn't. First, what is the best way to catch a fish (sixline), the shrimp will be easy enough for me. Second, is there a way I can buy bristleworms?

Traps work good, also if you are patient you can feed exclusively in a net believe it or not. Set it so they have to go in to feed, if they don't go in, they don't get fed. Usually within a few days you will have every fish in the net. Swaps of sand or small amounts of rock with other reefers is good for encouraging biodiversity. If you are a believer in QT you need to do that with anything new.

Coral Accel: every other day Essential Elements: weekly Coral Vite: weekly

I don't like any of this stuff, personally. If I can't test for it, I don't add it. Keeping alk, ca, magnesium in check is plenty, you get enough of all other traces through water changes and feeding. Your equipment looks good, IMO. Upgrading the skimmer would be good IMO, but not necessary.

Hope I was of some help!!!

[Racso]

What is the best way to lower phosphates? Tap water phosphates barely register, if at all, and even with my water changes they won't go down any farther. I know a lot of people are going to say "RO water!!" but A) RO water from LFS in my area are not reliable (one store had COPPER in the RO water, and I don't mean just detectable copper, but over treatment levels of copper, and I verified with a friend that my test kit was right!) and regular stores in my area charge a min of $0.99 per gallon. B) I can't afford an RO unit right now. C) Phosphates in my tap are low enough that they should still lower it in my tank with W/C.

I have a Seachem phosphate sponge in one of my filters (forgot to mention) but I don't think it has been working. Followed directions (four days in, replace, 4 more days). in the 7 days I've had it in there, it has only taken it down by no more than 0.4 when the directions say it will do much better than that.

As for magnesium, no test kit, don't know of anyone who has one. Would have to order online.

As for the mushrooms, the highest flow on them is pretty weak. No powerhead/pump/filter is pointed at them and the flow that they get is just a cross current. They've pretty much been in the same light all their lives.

As for the chemicals, it seems that when I use them, my corals act a little better (open more, birghter, etc.). I thought about using reef crystals and doing away with the extras, but I don't know about using something that already has the additives in it because it may have something you don't want.

As for the fuge design, again, if anyone knows of a way to mod something into a fuge, that would be nice too. Though about using an aquaclear 110.

Keep the comments coming!

[Hop]

What is the best way to lower phosphates? Tap water phosphates barely register, if at all, and even with my water changes they won't go down any farther. I know a lot of people are going to say "RO water!!" but A) RO water from LFS in my area are not reliable (one store had COPPER in the RO water, and I don't mean just detectable copper, but over treatment levels of copper, and I verified with a friend that my test kit was right!) and regular stores in my area charge a min of $0.99 per gallon. B) I can't afford an RO unit right now. C) Phosphates in my tap are low enough that they should still lower it in my tank with W/C.

1. RO/DI... Buy one It will be the one of the best purchases in the hobby you make If you can't afford one, start saving. Everything else is going to be a band-aid and not a solution.

2. Phosban or rowaphos. Read up on it and start using it. Some carbon can raise phosphate levels, so it's a good idea to run some when you run carbon after you get it to zero.

3. Skimmer... It will help get those organics out of your water!

4. Waterchanges. Get religious. 10 gallons twice a week until your parameters are in check. Then maybe ten gallons every two weeks.

I have a Seachem phosphate sponge in one of my filters (forgot to mention) but I don't think it has been working. Followed directions (four days in, replace, 4 more days). in the 7 days I've had it in there, it has only taken it down by no more than 0.4 when the directions say it will do much better than that.

You may have a lot to take out and still producing more I'm not a big fan of the sponge. rowaphos and phosguard are better IMO.

As for magnesium, no test kit, don't know of anyone who has one. Would have to order online.

Can't add calcium in my opinion without knowing where your mag levels are. They go hand in hand.

As for the chemicals, it seems that when I use them, my corals act a little better (open more, birghter, etc.). I thought about using reef crystals and doing away with the extras, but I don't know about using something that already has the additives in it because it may have something you don't want.

Maybe, but you could be adding things you don't want. Who knows, maybe this is adding the Po4 to your tank... I would stop using them

As for the fuge design, again, if anyone knows of a way to mod something into a fuge, that would be nice too. Though about using an aquaclear 110.

When reading your first post I kept thinking sump! Ditch the cannisters and build a sump. You can buy a reliable overflow used for under $50. Get a used tank, put some baffles in it, run a sump and add a fuge. Did I mention a skimmer yet

All and all if you want to get to the level you are asking about, your going to have to put some money into it. Learn to DIY, surf here ALOT and read read read!

There are very few short cuts in the hobby So the more you read, the better your tank will be after you can put what you read into motion!

Good Luck!

[Racso]

1. RO/DI... Buy one It will be the one of the best purchases in the hobby you make If you can't afford one, start saving. Everything else is going to be a band-aid and not a solution.

Like I said, I can't afford one right now. So how does saving up for the future solve my problem now?

2. Phosban or rowaphos. Read up on it and start using it. Some carbon can raise phosphate levels, so it's a good idea to run some when you run carbon after you get it to zero.

I don't use carbon that start to release phosphates, not to mention even if I did, I change it too often for it to start releasing phosphates.

3. Skimmer... It will help get those organics out of your water!

Seaclone 150 (working well)

I have a skimmer, I'm looking for an upgrade.

4. Water changes. Get religious. 10 gallons twice a week until your parameters are in check. Then maybe ten gallons every two weeks.

Water changes are done sporadically, however at BARE minimum, 5 gallons every other week. (More often I do about 10 gallons a week)

10 gal a week is what I do as a minimum unless something else comes up. one week a month I even do a total of 30 to 40% over the course of the week. (a lot comes from cleaning filters, I prime them with tank water then top off with premixed water.

You may have a lot to take out and still producing more I'm not a big fan of the sponge. rowaphos and phosguard are better IMO.

Sorry, I said seachem, but messed up and said phos. sponge. phosguard is the product I'm using, not Kent's phos. sponge.
Also, first list you said phosban, now you said phosguard, which one is it? I've never really liked phosban because its an ion-exchange, not absorber, but it doesn't say what it is exchanging for the phosphate.

Maybe, but you could be adding things you don't want. Who knows, maybe this is adding the Po4 to your tank... I would stop using them

Ingredients are phosphate free and the bottles specifically state they do not contribute to phosphate, nitrates, or silicates.

When reading your first post I kept thinking sump! Ditch the cannisters and build a sump. You can buy a reliable overflow used for under $50. Get a used tank, put some baffles in it, run a sump and add a fuge. Did I mention a skimmer yet

As for the skimmer... already addressed. As for the sump, why?
A) Most appropriately sized sumps wont fit in my stand without having to tear the tank down and dropping the sump in from the top or from the back.
B) Between my three canisters, Skimmer, and when I get a fuge on there, its about equivalent to the amount of extra water a sump would hold, so my tank wouldn't get more volume.
C) I don't mind having stuff hang on the back or stuff in my tank (intake/return hoses).
D) I can take one canister down and work with it away from the aquarium and still have more than enough filtration running the aquarium.
E) If I took three canisters off and put one sump on, I would have to buy and PLACE 4 additional power heads in my tank to accommodate the lack of flow in my aquarium. With three canisters i have 3 intakes and 3 outputs. With a sump you have one intake and one output. (Unless you spend more money and split the plumbing from the pump, however, I would then have have to spend even MORE money by buying a stronger pump, which relates to even MORE money on a more expensive overflow box)

So at this point, I don't see how spending $350 or more (~100 for sump, ~100 for pump, ~75 for overflow, ~75 assorted plumbing) will solve any problems I am having or make my tank any better.

Don't get me wrong, sumps are great ways to go for aquariums, however, many people need to realize that they are not the only way to go.

Now, back to lowering phosphates in my current situation. Yes I know RO/DI will best long term, but I'm looking for something by the of the month. Upgrading my skimmer wont do much for such a short period of time. I doubt I am producing any phosphates as no product that is in or being added into the tank adds phosphates, and as for food, I feed WAY too little for that to be an issue (MAYBE twice a week). About 99% of the time, my tank will get a water change or two before I even feed the tank. This month I've fed the fish maybe three times.

So, any ideas???
Oh, and I'm still looking for either cheap hang on fuges, or easy DIY plans, otherwise, its to the glazier for me!

Thanks for the help so far and any future help!

[Hop]

Don't say I didn't try. I spent 20 minutes typing out a thoughtful response to seriously help you and you blew it off. This is why I quit helping a year ago!

If your serious, start saving and fix your problem. There is no magic wand that is going to fix your tank or $5.00 product. It's so easy to sit here and see some simple problems and I can not address it further until you fix the first ones.

So Again!
1. Get RO/DI water. TDS fuels algae along with Po4 and an abundance of organics. You have all three! It's a time bomb.

2. Put some phosphate reducing media in there. I don't care what you pick, just do it. And do it right. No where in your post did you say you had a phosphate reactor. Just plunking it in a cannister filter will not allow it to work to it's full potential.

3. A sea Clone is not a skimmer and certainly not designed for your tank. Get a real skimmer and not a toy! Get that stuff out of your water. Look into used octopus skimmers. You can get them cheap and they do a decent job.

4. A sump would be nice because you could ditch the cannisters and get a skimmer rated for your tank.

5. Quit adding stuff you can't test for. I don't care whether it says it's Po4 free or not. It may have been six months ago, but it might not be now. Quit using buffer because it doesn't work on non RO/DI water. It adjusts for a few hours and then plummets. Oh yeah and some cause Po4 issues even thought the bottle says it doesn't.

So I apologize if I sound harsh, but I gave you advice to fix your problem and you mocked at it. As I said before you have a lot of reading and some cash that's going to have to be thrown down to fix the problem!

Regards!

[Racso]

I didn't blow off your answer, I responded to it with why it won't solve my problem now.

1)As I stated, I know I need an RO/DI, I know I need a better skimmer (and I don't see how a seaclone "isn't" a skimmer, it is a foam fractionator, true it’s not a high quality skimmer, but a skimmer non-the-less).

If someone breaks their arm, you don’t just tell them “You need a doctor to set that back, and get a cast on.� Obviously that’s the long term answer, however, something short term needs to be done. You don’t just leave it until the proper thing is done, you do a quick, temporary fix.

2) I do have some phosphate reducing media, phosguard. As I said, first post I said it wrong, but was then corrected. And I appologise if I stressed my opinion on something and also asked you to clarify.

3) Again, Seaclone 150 is a skimmer, just because you don’t like them, don’t make it so its not a skimmer. Its pulls out a decent amount of skimmate so its obviously working. (about a ¼� of dark, nasty skimmate every 4 or 5 days, plus what’s on the sides and riser tube).

4) Again, sump really wouldn’t improve my situation, and I’m certainly not going to get a sump just so I can get a skimmer when there are plenty of high quality hang on skimmers.

Again, I did not mock your advice, but you gave me long term answers for my phosphate, and the way you posted your original answers sounded like they would solve ALL my problems (such as catching my sixline and increasing numbers on pods and worms). While band-aid fixes are obviously not long term, they are what I need.

[Craig Lambert]

Hop has given you some great advice here. You have both a nutrient import, and export problem. It's a serious one and there isn't any way to address it without plunking down some money. BTW, 1/4" of skimate from that tiny cup out of a 75G tank every 4 or 5 days is next to nothing given your bioload.

[Hop]

I apologize, I was just focusing on one issue at a time in your first post and maybe went overboard.

Rather than going over everything again I'll say if it were me and I was in your shoes I would focus on parameters first. To get the Po4 and nitrates in check I would do a few massive water changes, add some type of fuge, even if only a temp set up for now and get some cheato growing while running a Po4 reducing media.

In the long term I would start planning on a sump with a large fuge area and room for a larger skimmer. You are right that the sea clone does fractionate foam, however, you would get a full cup every day from a better skimmer. Better removal of organics and longer contact time are just a few of the benefits. A sump will add volume, allow you to get a larger skimmer, add a fuge and maintain more consistent levels. Basically make things easier for you

After the parameters are in check, I would work on maintaining the Ca levels etc and the coraline issue will resolve itself.

I'll let some others chime in now and see if I overlooked something... One possibility on the other issues is how old are your bulbs?

[zoomfish1]

I feel your pain, Hop. Your advice to Racso was right on. It would be nice if there were a short term fix to his problem, but it took a long time for those problems to accumulate and will prob take 3 times as long to straighten out. There is, simply, no short time fix.

Take the advice given as proper and take the actions you can afford to do now. You seem adverse to a sump when , again in the long run, it will do you the most good.

I am chemically challenged when it comes to actions causing reactions, but Hop's advice sounds right from my experience. We are, unfortunatley, not made of money or all these fixes would be easy. Cheapest thing is water changes and testing to get phosphates down. A sump with adequate room for a fuge is the eventual solution to most of your problems. Argue it out or just take the hit. Mine is a 20g long for my 75g. It fit under the stand without any mods. Overflow use is about $ 50-$60. My 20g was $15.00. Not that much to spend. Hey, you know whats next; something to do with the heat and kitchens.

Anyway, do what you can afford now, save for what you can't and good luck with it all.

[UrbanSage]

Originally posted by Racso
I would then have have to spend even MORE money by buying a stronger pump, which relates to even MORE money on a more expensive overflow box)

After this I wanted to say "Costs money to play the game"
But I desided not to, then I saw Hop's response and he pretty much said everything needed.

I hope Racso gets a great tank but it also seems like there is a bit of a block when advice is being given.

Stop thinking short term. If you really perform as many water changes as you say then you can't do much more with your current setup. So keep it up while saving for some robust solutions.

You are asking people for short term solutions and barking at the people letting you know how to fix your situation long term.

[UrbanSage]

And a refugium can be as simple as a section of your tank being blocked off with egg crate to keep fish out.
Let hair algae and whatever grow in that section.

But ofcourse, macro algae doesn't grow overnight and lower your phosphates so maybe it was a bad idea too......

[Racso]

OK Look, I never said that HOP was completely in the wrong. True I said that his answer wasn't exactly what I wanted, but I never said, OH your answer is wrong and unprecedented. If I havn't already said, I do appreciate the responce.

A bulk of his answer was based off a sump, and some of you backed him up on that. There is no logical reason for me to get a sump. Again, I am not mocking sumps. If I were to set the same tank up MY way as apposed to how I got it, I WOULD go with a sump. But looking at the advantages of a sump compared to my current setup, which is mainly taking all the hang on equipment off and having everything in sump, its not worth it. Once I get a fuge on my tank, there really isn't any reason for me to get a sump.

I never barked at HOP for the advise he gave me. I gave him reasons why I already wasn't to the point he suggested. And for pete's sake, I even asked him to clarify something. I'm sorry that I cannot send emotion or tone of voice over the internet.

If I ask "how do you get rid of ammonia" and someone answers, "buy a calcium reactor" what do you want me to say? Thanks for the advice!

I will say, HOP, your second responce is more of what I wanted. Again, I aprreciate BOTH of your responces, but your second one seamed a little more helpful.

So a sump is going to fix my phosphates? Once I get a refugium, please tell me how a sump will fix my problem. I doubt it will hold more water than my canisters, skimmer, and fuge combined. It certanly wont create more flow. I really don't mind having stuff hang on the back of the tank, and I would prefer multiple small things hanging than one big, bulky box. Now, seriously, this is a true question and not a bark, and it based off of all of your answers. Apparently, I am under educated about how a sump works because I don't see how a sump will: A) improve my tank, B) get rid of my phostphates, C) increase my pod and worm numbers (more than a hang on refugium).

Again, HOP, I know a SeaClone isn't a high quality skimmer, but considering how many water changes I do, plus running carbon (which is never any older than 2 weeks), I am ok with what it is doing. However, I agree a bigger/better skimmer would be best. Your original post said I didn't have any skimmer at all.

[Racso]

oh, sorry, the lights are only a few weeks, and the lights before that were no more than 5 or 6 months.

[Racso]

bump....

I'm not a bad guy, and again, i'm sorry if I sounded like I didn't care what anyone said.