ATI vs. Aquatinics T-5s

lovethereefer · 01/20/2007, 07:21 PM

Looking for t-5 lighting for a 215 oceanic. Its 6' long 29" high. Anyone know if ATI has a 6' fixture coming out? Or should I just look for a different type of light. Yes i have been trying to figure out the lighting issue for about 6 months now and cant make up my mind on halide vs. t-5 for an SPS tank, the Zeovit tank is ready to go, its stocked with fish just waiting on me to make a decision on the lighting. Please chime in with ideas!

fighton03 · 01/20/2007, 09:04 PM

I just bought the 72" Aquatinics T5 fixture. I received it, but DHL did their best to make sure that it did not work when it arrived. Tom at Aquatinics is sending me a new unit, but he let me use it until the new one arrives. It is NICE!!! I only have 2 of the 7 rows of bulbs in (just for the liverock) and it is BRIGHT! It is quiet, low profile and solid. A quality unit.

Aqua Keepers · 01/20/2007, 10:14 PM

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1022720

sasscuba · 01/20/2007, 10:24 PM

I bought 2 of the 36 inch Aquatinics T5 fixtures for my 6 foot long 125 gallon and love them!

lovethereefer · 01/20/2007, 10:28 PM

do you have any sps?

atvdave · 01/20/2007, 10:28 PM

my vote is Aquatinics

Here's a pic of my 72" t-5 fixture.

Works great.

sasscuba · 01/20/2007, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lovethereefer
do you have any sps?

Only 2 Staghorn Corals now.

lovethereefer · 01/20/2007, 10:35 PM

it is sweet looking but i will have sps only

lovethereefer · 01/20/2007, 10:37 PM

you think that it would be enough?

Henry Bowman · 01/20/2007, 10:39 PM

You should be fine with SPS and T5 lighting. Bulb selection is important as well as having good reflectors (Aquactinics). My understanding is that Aquactinics is going wholesale and will not be selling to the public. I purchased a Solar Flare from www.aquariumspecialty.com Scott is a great guy and is very willing to help. His co. is on the vendors forum.

For more info on SPS and T5's look through the T5 Q&A thread. There are a good many folks running them with SPS successfully.

sjm817 · 01/20/2007, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by atvdave
my vote is Aquatinics

Here's a pic of my 72" t-5 fixture.

Works great.

How do you feed your fish? Do you slide the fixture back?

lovethereefer · 01/20/2007, 10:42 PM

i dont see any fish lol i guess thats one way

sjm817 · 01/20/2007, 10:43 PM

LOL. Good point!

fighton03 · 01/20/2007, 10:46 PM

I actually chose the Actinics fixture so that I could start getting more SPS.

The fixture has riser brackets so you can have it lifted off the tank. I also has the capability of suspending it with threaded inlets on the top of the fixture.

atvdave · 01/20/2007, 10:56 PM

HEHE.. Yes there are fish in there.

I just slide it back when I do maintenance on the tank and feeding.

If you look close you can see 2 support strips on each end that I made so if the fixture shifts to one side when I slide it back it wont fall into the tank.

Works great.

Good luck with which ever way you decide to go.

Dave

BLockamon · 01/21/2007, 01:35 AM

I also have an Aquactinics fixture (48" 5-bulb T5) and love it. At the very least, you should be able to keep SPS down to about 24" with T5. It will probably be fine all the way to the sand (or glass, of you go bare-bottom), but you may want to do lower-light SPS (e.g., montipora, etc.) at the bottom.

atvdave · 01/21/2007, 12:06 PM

Here are some PAR readings The Grim Reefer did some time ago on T-5 bulbs.

This may help. Also grim is very knowledgeable on T-5 lighting so I'm sure he can answer most of your questions.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=918935

hahnmeister · 01/21/2007, 12:17 PM

Watt for Watt, the ATI should squash the output of a Aquatinics. Sure the Aquatinics are nice, dont get me wrong... they are perhaps one of the top 3 makes in the US right now, but the ATIs have an edge, and they do come in 4 bulb, 6 bulb, 8 bulb, and even 10 bulb configurations (yeah, you can even get a 10x24watt setup... go figure what that is good for). The 10 bulb units are only 20" deep... not bad.

The other thing is that the Aquatinics dont come with 80watt bulbs... the ATIs do. You could get a 8x80watt powermodul, and although upfront it would cost more than the Aquatinics that uses twin banks of 3' bulbs, it would be just as bright if not brighter, and when it comes to bulb replacement time... you would only have 8 bulbs to replace... not twin banks. This could add up.

BLockamon · 01/21/2007, 12:36 PM

Yep, the ATI is brighter bulb for bulb. I don't know about watt for watt. Given the PAR, it looks like they are overdriving the bulbs, similar to the IceCap ballasts. Not sure though; anyone know for sure? If they are overdriving the bulbs, that might affect the bulb life in the long run.

atvdave · 01/21/2007, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BLockamon
Yep, the ATI is brighter bulb for bulb. I don't know about watt for watt. Given the PAR, it looks like they are overdriving the bulbs, similar to the IceCap ballasts. Not sure though; anyone know for sure? If they are overdriving the bulbs, that might affect the bulb life in the long run.

If your referring to the link above, the tests (that Grim Reefer did ) where all done on the same ballast.

ATI just makes a higher PAR bulb, that is why I use them.

About the fixture though, I'm not sure what type ballast it has. The Aquatinics use Workhorses ballasts.

I also have always heard that the ATI fixtures where a bit better that the Aquatinics but back when I did my shopping around the extra PAR's just wasn't worth the extra price.

It's just my opinion though, I'm a a cheap @#$%^$.

Dave

hahnmeister · 01/21/2007, 01:08 PM

Well... bulb for bulb is the same thing as watt for watt.

The ATIs arent overdriving any. They are using a custom Vossloh Schwabe ballast. The main reasons for the greater output are reflector geometry (okay, the silver coating doesnt hurt), and the active cooling performed by the fans and the ballast. The ballast runs the bulbs at a higher frequency than others... but not a higher wattage.

Lets put it this way... just by using a good fan blowing over my Tek light, the output goes up a good percentage. I have boosted the output by up to 20% by doing this. As the bulbs get cooler, the bulbs conduct better, so their wattage increases, which also compensates to keep the bulbs at a constant temp. I was able to increase the wattage of my bulbs from 40 watts each (on a 39 watt bulb) to 47! Thats a considerable output jump. With better ballasts that have built in thermal load sensing and heat management built in (as well as close to a 100 khz frequency on the bulb unlike many others), the output could be even greater.

Those OSRAM and V-S ballasts look like the shizzle for this.

hahnmeister · 01/21/2007, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by atvdave
If your referring to the link above, the tests (that Grim Reefer did ) where all done on the same ballast.

ATI just makes a higher PAR bulb, that is why I use them.

About the fixture though, I'm not sure what type ballast it has. The Aquatinics use Workhorses ballasts.

I also have always heard that the ATI fixtures where a bit better that the Aquatinics but back when I did my shopping around the extra PAR's just wasn't worth the extra price.

It's just my opinion though, I'm a a cheap @#$%^$.

Dave

Well, seems like were talking about two things here. The test that Grim did where he compared the output of a powermodul to a Tek used the same bulbs, no overdriving, etc. The bulbs were the same, but the ballasts and reflectors, etc... were different.

Then there are the bulbs... yeah, the ATIs seem to have a slight output advantage over the D&D/G-man bulbs... but well see. I think the long term tests of the Narva made bulbs might be better than the OSRAM/Sylvania made ATI's.

atvdave · 01/21/2007, 01:25 PM

Yes.. I was only referring about the bulb test, not reflector or fixture test.

Serioussnaps · 01/21/2007, 08:38 PM

I didnt realize how bulky those fixtures were, now that just confirms my decision to get an ATI fixture and find a way to get it shipped over.

hahnmeister · 01/21/2007, 10:23 PM

Just call Reefgeek and they should be able to set something up.

01/20/2007, 07:21 PM	#1
lovethereefer Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 298	ATI vs. Aquatinics T-5s Looking for t-5 lighting for a 215 oceanic. Its 6' long 29" high. Anyone know if ATI has a 6' fixture coming out? Or should I just look for a different type of light. Yes i have been trying to figure out the lighting issue for about 6 months now and cant make up my mind on halide vs. t-5 for an SPS tank, the Zeovit tank is ready to go, its stocked with fish just waiting on me to make a decision on the lighting. Please chime in with ideas!

01/20/2007, 09:04 PM	#2
fighton03 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: baytown, tx Posts: 331	Aquatinics I just bought the 72" Aquatinics T5 fixture. I received it, but DHL did their best to make sure that it did not work when it arrived. Tom at Aquatinics is sending me a new unit, but he let me use it until the new one arrives. It is NICE!!! I only have 2 of the 7 rows of bulbs in (just for the liverock) and it is BRIGHT! It is quiet, low profile and solid. A quality unit.

01/20/2007, 10:39 PM	#10
Henry Bowman Reefing since '87 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Allegheny Mountains of VA Posts: 2,162	You should be fine with SPS and T5 lighting. Bulb selection is important as well as having good reflectors (Aquactinics). My understanding is that Aquactinics is going wholesale and will not be selling to the public. I purchased a Solar Flare from www.aquariumspecialty.com Scott is a great guy and is very willing to help. His co. is on the vendors forum. For more info on SPS and T5's look through the T5 Q&A thread. There are a good many folks running them with SPS successfully. __________________ Have a good'un Current Tank Info: 90 gl SPS dominant / upgrade in the works

01/20/2007, 10:43 PM	#13
sjm817 On Yer left! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18,777	LOL. Good point! __________________ - Scott

01/20/2007, 10:46 PM	#14
fighton03 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: baytown, tx Posts: 331	risers I actually chose the Actinics fixture so that I could start getting more SPS. The fixture has riser brackets so you can have it lifted off the tank. I also has the capability of suspending it with threaded inlets on the top of the fixture.

01/20/2007, 10:14 PM	#3
Aqua Keepers Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Clearwater,Fl Posts: 2,915	http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1022720

01/20/2007, 10:24 PM	#4
sasscuba Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Owasso, Oklahoma Posts: 990	I bought 2 of the 36 inch Aquatinics T5 fixtures for my 6 foot long 125 gallon and love them!

01/20/2007, 10:28 PM	#5
lovethereefer Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 298	do you have any sps?

01/20/2007, 10:28 PM	#6
atvdave Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,763	my vote is Aquatinics Here's a pic of my 72" t-5 fixture. Works great.

01/20/2007, 10:35 PM	#8
lovethereefer Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 298	it is sweet looking but i will have sps only

01/20/2007, 10:37 PM	#9
lovethereefer Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 298	you think that it would be enough?

01/20/2007, 10:42 PM	#12
lovethereefer Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 298	i dont see any fish lol i guess thats one way

01/20/2007, 10:56 PM	#15
atvdave Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,763	HEHE.. Yes there are fish in there. I just slide it back when I do maintenance on the tank and feeding. If you look close you can see 2 support strips on each end that I made so if the fixture shifts to one side when I slide it back it wont fall into the tank. Works great. Good luck with which ever way you decide to go. Dave

01/21/2007, 01:35 AM	#16
BLockamon Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 1,104	I also have an Aquactinics fixture (48" 5-bulb T5) and love it. At the very least, you should be able to keep SPS down to about 24" with T5. It will probably be fine all the way to the sand (or glass, of you go bare-bottom), but you may want to do lower-light SPS (e.g., montipora, etc.) at the bottom.

01/21/2007, 12:06 PM	#17
atvdave Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,763	Here are some PAR readings The Grim Reefer did some time ago on T-5 bulbs. This may help. Also grim is very knowledgeable on T-5 lighting so I'm sure he can answer most of your questions. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=918935

01/21/2007, 12:17 PM	#18
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	Watt for Watt, the ATI should squash the output of a Aquatinics. Sure the Aquatinics are nice, dont get me wrong... they are perhaps one of the top 3 makes in the US right now, but the ATIs have an edge, and they do come in 4 bulb, 6 bulb, 8 bulb, and even 10 bulb configurations (yeah, you can even get a 10x24watt setup... go figure what that is good for). The 10 bulb units are only 20" deep... not bad. The other thing is that the Aquatinics dont come with 80watt bulbs... the ATIs do. You could get a 8x80watt powermodul, and although upfront it would cost more than the Aquatinics that uses twin banks of 3' bulbs, it would be just as bright if not brighter, and when it comes to bulb replacement time... you would only have 8 bulbs to replace... not twin banks. This could add up.

01/21/2007, 12:36 PM	#19
BLockamon Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 1,104	Yep, the ATI is brighter bulb for bulb. I don't know about watt for watt. Given the PAR, it looks like they are overdriving the bulbs, similar to the IceCap ballasts. Not sure though; anyone know for sure? If they are overdriving the bulbs, that might affect the bulb life in the long run.

01/21/2007, 01:08 PM	#21
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	Well... bulb for bulb is the same thing as watt for watt. The ATIs arent overdriving any. They are using a custom Vossloh Schwabe ballast. The main reasons for the greater output are reflector geometry (okay, the silver coating doesnt hurt), and the active cooling performed by the fans and the ballast. The ballast runs the bulbs at a higher frequency than others... but not a higher wattage. Lets put it this way... just by using a good fan blowing over my Tek light, the output goes up a good percentage. I have boosted the output by up to 20% by doing this. As the bulbs get cooler, the bulbs conduct better, so their wattage increases, which also compensates to keep the bulbs at a constant temp. I was able to increase the wattage of my bulbs from 40 watts each (on a 39 watt bulb) to 47! Thats a considerable output jump. With better ballasts that have built in thermal load sensing and heat management built in (as well as close to a 100 khz frequency on the bulb unlike many others), the output could be even greater. Those OSRAM and V-S ballasts look like the shizzle for this.

01/21/2007, 01:25 PM	#23
atvdave Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newburgh, IN Posts: 1,763	Yes.. I was only referring about the bulb test, not reflector or fixture test.

01/21/2007, 08:38 PM	#24
Serioussnaps Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: North Carolina Posts: 3,703	I didnt realize how bulky those fixtures were, now that just confirms my decision to get an ATI fixture and find a way to get it shipped over.

01/21/2007, 10:23 PM	#25
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	Just call Reefgeek and they should be able to set something up.