RO/DI questions

reeformadness · 02/08/2007, 10:59 AM

I got my RO/DI installed. It was very easy, and I'm excited, but I have a few questions:

What is my pressure guage supposed to read? I have 45 psi.

My DI filter doesn't fill up all the way like the other housings, is this normal?

Is it normal for the water to taste rubbery? Does this go away in time?

I have heard that DI water is aggresive...what should I put the water in to transfer as top off. Is a pitcher good, or should I use something else? How about 5 gallon buckets? I know rubbermaid brutes are a good choice as a reservoir, but what about an icechest?

BillyJoeJimBob · 02/08/2007, 11:32 AM

What is my pressure guage supposed to read? I have 45 psi.

45PSI is fine and should not produce a lot of excess waste water.

My DI filter doesn't fill up all the way like the other housings, is this normal?

You might have some air trapped in the housing. See next answer which may fix the problem.

Is it normal for the water to taste rubbery? Does this go away in time?

Have you run your system for a couple of hours already? I think most manufacturers recommend running for around 2 hours to break the RO membrane in and to get all the chemicals flushed. Along with this, if there is air stuck in your DI unit this will help get it out of the system. I think you can crack open the housing too while it is running then reseat it after the air is gone. Have some towels or a bucket ready because this can easily create a mess of water on the floor. I think I'd try letting it run for a while before attempting this. Also, do you have a TDS meter? As long as your water out of the DI is reading 0-1ppm, I would not worry about it.

I have heard that DI water is aggresive...what should I put the water in to transfer as top off. Is a pitcher good, or should I use something else? How about 5 gallon buckets? I know rubbermaid brutes are a good choice as a reservoir, but what about an icechest?

Any plastic medium that will hold water without leaking should work fine (buckets, pitchers, rubbermaid containers, rubber garbage cans, etc.). Just make sure whatever you use is clean.

reeformadness · 02/08/2007, 11:49 AM

thanks BillyJoeJimBob...it was the new water that I tasted....So I will give it time. Yes I do have a TDS meter and it is reading 0. I will try reseating it in a little bit.

davocean · 02/08/2007, 12:00 PM

If your pressure is below 60lbs a booster would really help.
Mine is at 50lbs, so it's pretty slow.
Colder temps make it slow as well, but don't use hot water as you'll damage membrane.
Some people coil hose in their sump as a means to run warmer water through RO.

reeformadness · 02/08/2007, 01:45 PM

I talked to the manufacturer and the DI unit isn't supposed to fill up all the way, so all is well. Thanks everybody.

AZDesertRat · 02/08/2007, 04:13 PM

Dow Filmtec membranes are rated at 50 psi. , others are rated at 60 to 65 psi. so lower pressures will produce less water. Temperature also has an effect on output so in winter months you may only get 50% of the rated capacity of the membrane if you have both low presure and low temperature. Here is Dow Filmtecs graphs that show how both affect output.

http://www.dow.com/PublishedLiteratu...romPage=GetDoc

DI housing are not supposed to fill up all the way, the water path is up through the center of the cartridge so the canister does not have to be full.
RO and RO/DI water can taste bland or even rubbery, thats why drinking water systems have a final taste and odor carbon filter on the RO only drinking water output line. Drinking DI water is a waste so if you do have a drinking water kit hook it up pre DI.

reeformadness · 02/08/2007, 05:16 PM

No kit, desertrat, but thanks for the reply. It explains alot for me. I don't really plan on drinking the water, i was just curious how it tasted. I have Britta too, but I might stick with tap to get some flouride. as for the pressure as long as it doesn't screw up my system I'm OK. Its rated at 75 gpd and it produces water fast enough for my needs.

fishyface · 02/10/2007, 03:36 PM

don't wanna highjack here but can someone tell me where in the system is the pressure guage supposed to be? my unit came with one but it didn't specify where to put it so i haven't used it yet.

edit: found the answer...

thanks

02/08/2007, 10:59 AM	#1
reeformadness Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Gulfport, MS Posts: 650	RO/DI questions I got my RO/DI installed. It was very easy, and I'm excited, but I have a few questions: What is my pressure guage supposed to read? I have 45 psi. My DI filter doesn't fill up all the way like the other housings, is this normal? Is it normal for the water to taste rubbery? Does this go away in time? I have heard that DI water is aggresive...what should I put the water in to transfer as top off. Is a pitcher good, or should I use something else? How about 5 gallon buckets? I know rubbermaid brutes are a good choice as a reservoir, but what about an icechest?

02/08/2007, 12:00 PM	#4
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	If your pressure is below 60lbs a booster would really help. Mine is at 50lbs, so it's pretty slow. Colder temps make it slow as well, but don't use hot water as you'll damage membrane. Some people coil hose in their sump as a means to run warmer water through RO. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

02/10/2007, 03:36 PM	#8
fishyface Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: surrey, bc Posts: 135	don't wanna highjack here but can someone tell me where in the system is the pressure guage supposed to be? my unit came with one but it didn't specify where to put it so i haven't used it yet. edit: found the answer... thanks __________________ darryl Current Tank Info: 120g reef in the making, custom sump and stand. RS250 skimmer, Luminarc minis with 250w aquaconnect bulbs, 4x54w T5's

02/08/2007, 11:32 AM	#2
BillyJoeJimBob Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: U.S.A. Posts: 174	What is my pressure guage supposed to read? I have 45 psi. 45PSI is fine and should not produce a lot of excess waste water. My DI filter doesn't fill up all the way like the other housings, is this normal? You might have some air trapped in the housing. See next answer which may fix the problem. Is it normal for the water to taste rubbery? Does this go away in time? Have you run your system for a couple of hours already? I think most manufacturers recommend running for around 2 hours to break the RO membrane in and to get all the chemicals flushed. Along with this, if there is air stuck in your DI unit this will help get it out of the system. I think you can crack open the housing too while it is running then reseat it after the air is gone. Have some towels or a bucket ready because this can easily create a mess of water on the floor. I think I'd try letting it run for a while before attempting this. Also, do you have a TDS meter? As long as your water out of the DI is reading 0-1ppm, I would not worry about it. I have heard that DI water is aggresive...what should I put the water in to transfer as top off. Is a pitcher good, or should I use something else? How about 5 gallon buckets? I know rubbermaid brutes are a good choice as a reservoir, but what about an icechest? Any plastic medium that will hold water without leaking should work fine (buckets, pitchers, rubbermaid containers, rubber garbage cans, etc.). Just make sure whatever you use is clean.

02/08/2007, 11:49 AM	#3
reeformadness Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Gulfport, MS Posts: 650	thanks BillyJoeJimBob...it was the new water that I tasted....So I will give it time. Yes I do have a TDS meter and it is reading 0. I will try reseating it in a little bit.

02/08/2007, 01:45 PM	#5
reeformadness Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Gulfport, MS Posts: 650	I talked to the manufacturer and the DI unit isn't supposed to fill up all the way, so all is well. Thanks everybody.

02/08/2007, 04:13 PM	#6
AZDesertRat Moved On Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: NW Phoenix Posts: 16,621	Dow Filmtec membranes are rated at 50 psi. , others are rated at 60 to 65 psi. so lower pressures will produce less water. Temperature also has an effect on output so in winter months you may only get 50% of the rated capacity of the membrane if you have both low presure and low temperature. Here is Dow Filmtecs graphs that show how both affect output. http://www.dow.com/PublishedLiteratu...romPage=GetDoc DI housing are not supposed to fill up all the way, the water path is up through the center of the cartridge so the canister does not have to be full. RO and RO/DI water can taste bland or even rubbery, thats why drinking water systems have a final taste and odor carbon filter on the RO only drinking water output line. Drinking DI water is a waste so if you do have a drinking water kit hook it up pre DI.

02/08/2007, 05:16 PM	#7
reeformadness Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Gulfport, MS Posts: 650	No kit, desertrat, but thanks for the reply. It explains alot for me. I don't really plan on drinking the water, i was just curious how it tasted. I have Britta too, but I might stick with tap to get some flouride. as for the pressure as long as it doesn't screw up my system I'm OK. Its rated at 75 gpd and it produces water fast enough for my needs.