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02/26/2007, 10:36 AM | #1 |
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water change
I just did a water check and the results are:
Ammonia- .50 PH- 8.2 Nitrite- .50 Nitrate-10 Gravity- 1.025 Question is, will a simple water change help with this? If so, how much should be enough? I have well water here. Is this good or should I be using distilled water? My tank is a 20 gal. high. |
02/26/2007, 10:50 AM | #2 |
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How long has the tank been up and running? Any animals in it yet? you really need to use RO/DI water to make sure you're not introducing things you'd rather not have in your tank. From the numbers it looks like your tank is cycling. Don't do anything except keep testing the Nitrogen compounds like you've been doing, until they are all at or very very near zero. what's happening is that the nitrifying bacteria are becoming established in your tank. that's your filtration for dealing with those toxic compounds. Ammonia spikes first, then nitrite, then nitrate. without that "cycle" your biome has no way to handle them and your animals die. If you have animals in the tank currently I hope they make it, but they are in fact why the tank is cycling in that they are introducing the ammonia in their urine and poop. one population of bacteria that feeds on ammonia will multiply with the food source, and create nitrite as a by-product. the next teir of bacteria will feed on the nitrite and create nitrate as a by-product. the last bunch will handle the nitrate and create free nitrogen as a by-product, will will exit the tank through the water surface. the bacteria live in your substrate and rock - that's your filter. Good luck! keep us posted.
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"The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter." - Thomas Jefferson Current Tank Info: 29 gal. reef/assist with 75 gal. at the school |
02/26/2007, 10:52 AM | #3 |
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A water change will certainly help. Also, do you have any livestock in the tank and/or coral?
As far as well water goes, you really should be using RO or RO/DI for your water. That is the standard response, but it really depends on how good or bad your well water is. If i am not mistaken, distilled water doesnt do much for you. HTH
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Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please. Mark Twain Current Tank Info: 93g Marineland cube. SPS dominated. Vortech mp40. 2 x AI sol super blues. SRO 2000 int skimmer. Mag 18 return. Korallin 1500 calcium reactor. |
02/26/2007, 11:19 AM | #4 |
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I have 2 crabs, a green mandarin, 12 lbs of live rock and a royal dottyback that I can not find
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02/26/2007, 11:28 AM | #5 |
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how old is your tank? seems it is still cycling.....
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John |
02/26/2007, 11:29 AM | #6 |
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about 5 weeks
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02/26/2007, 11:33 AM | #7 |
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How will I know when my tank has stabalized?
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02/26/2007, 11:34 AM | #8 |
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when your ammonia and nitrites are at 0.
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Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please. Mark Twain Current Tank Info: 93g Marineland cube. SPS dominated. Vortech mp40. 2 x AI sol super blues. SRO 2000 int skimmer. Mag 18 return. Korallin 1500 calcium reactor. |
02/26/2007, 11:45 AM | #9 |
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water changes are the solution to most problems, but, cycling a tank is something only patience can solve. usually lasts 4-8 weeks, depending, so your almost there.
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John |
02/26/2007, 11:58 AM | #10 |
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what is an RO/DI and what will this do
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02/26/2007, 12:11 PM | #11 |
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Reverse Osmosis/Deionizing filter- it gives you a consitently clean and reliable water source. No way of knowing what's coming out of the tap. Great thread on this forum - take note of AZ Desertrat's input in the "is ro/di necessary?" thread. it's well worth the $$ to preserve the integrity of your system.
On another note, I'd find a home for the mandarin - they need a very mature tank with a thriving 'pod population to survive. Maybe could trade your LFS for something else. The dottyback may be gone, and that would also explain your ammonia levels, or just add to them.
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"The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter." - Thomas Jefferson Current Tank Info: 29 gal. reef/assist with 75 gal. at the school |
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