New 210G Plumbing review

[Ryan009]

Well I've got my equipment and its time to hook it up now.

I had an arrangement with a pro with one of the local LFS to help do the setup and install. Unfortunately it doesn't look like that's going to work out some I'm on my own.

I would really appreciate feedback on the layout I've come up with. Specifically, I want to make sure I have all the components hooked up in the right sequence so it all works.

I'm sure there'll be comments on the location of the skimmer, but my pro had made a pretty good case for keeping it external for ease of service and to help prevent salt creep so I'd like to give it a try for now.

This is my weekend project so quick responses are appreciated.

Ryan

[douglaslindsey]

Looks like you've got the right equipment, but one thing I would change is your right drain should go into your refugium with an adjustable valve and not the center return. That way your refugium can overflow into the center return like your skimmer side. Also make sure your UV can handle the amount of water flowing through it (1550gph). also make sure you set up 2 durso drains for your overflow boxes. Good luck, and don't rush things.

[Roy G. Biv]

I've had my 210 running for 7 weeks now. I am running 2-1200gph pumps for the return and have no problem with the drainage. Actually it probably could have handled 2-1800gph pumps but I wasn't sure at the time when I bought them. As for the UV, I have a seperate pump about 300gph at 36watts. The slower the better for maximum kill. I had your same setup on my 110 fish only withe a 40watt UV and seem to do little to control ich outbreaks, rate was to fast for it. I slowed it down on a seperate pump and turned it on only when needed and seems to wok perfectly. There should be a chart that came with the UV to tell you the maximum kill gph. As for your drains, the right side seems to do very little for processing the water where as the left gets dumped int the skimmer area. I like the link between the 2 drains because I have found that when they get dumped seperately, one will drain fast, then slow down and the other will become fast back and forth creatin alot of noise. By linking them together the drains becom equalized and both drain at the same rate.

[douglaslindsey]

I agree on the amount being pumped from the return. My 135 is running a Pan World 200 - pumping 1740gph, although some belive that the return rate should be slower so it can skimm better. And they put more movement into a closed loop or power heads. As for the drains I agree that it would be good to keep them equalized, but you should separate them comming into your sump if you are running a fuge. You have to get water into it somehow... My fuge is a separate tank from my sump. I pump water into it from my return manifold, and back into the sump. I wish I had one built into my sump. It would save a lot of room.

Pmolan What size are your drain lines and return lines? my 2 drain lines are 1.5". and my returns are 1"ea.

[douglaslindsey]

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/s...s_wet_sump.jpg

[douglaslindsey]

another sample of what I am talking about:

http://www.melevsreef.com/plumb_it.jpg

[nait002]

I would run both drains to the first part of the sump where the skimmer is located. This way the crappiest water is getting skimmed first. I would run your fuge in the second chamber to polish and clean the water a bit more and also help break up any micro bubbles. And finally the return chamber. I also switched the return line. You want to make sure the are equal lengths after the tee if you want the same flow coming out of both sides of the return. I would also run the UV on a separate pump to adjust flow as needed. Here is a little sketch to show what I'm talking about. If you want help I sent you a PM.

[Roy G. Biv]

I believe that my drain is 1.5" and returns are 1". My drains run into an acrylic box loaded with filter floss. the output of that goes into the middle of the sump where the skimmer pump and UV pump are. The UV pump goes to the UV which dumps into my 15gal fuge. The overflow of the skimmer and the fuge go to the return pump area. There is always water going through the UV but I turn on the bul when needed. I seem to get the most processing of the water that way.

[Ryan009]

A couple of updates:
After some comments and suggestions, I went back and reviewed by blueprint and found a glitch in my drawing. The right drain was suppose to go the Refugium with a butterfly valve in-line to control the flow.

Here is the corrected image


As far as the comments on the UV. The manual doesn't give GPH ratings for saltwater (they do for freshwater though ... hummmm?). They rate the sterilzer by Tank Gallons. The 57W is rated for 225. There is a asterisk that says "Salt Water gallons based on higher UV kill rate (targeting free floating parasites) and tank turnover of 3-5 times per hour. Using their formula, I'm probably a little undersized for my tank and flow but I'm guessing by the time I get all my connnections made, I'm not really going to be getting 1550 gph out of the return pump anyway.

Last but not least - Sorry for the dumb question, but Douglaslindsey recommened Durso drains. What are Durson drains?

[KH971]

Okay i have the same setup and use a Sequence Marlin, with 9 ft. of head. I used all the bulkheads, 3/4's upsized to 1 1/2 dursos and 1 inch bulkheads upsized to 1 1/2 dursos. this allowed for maximum water turnover in my tank, I get no sucking noise from the overflows. I came over the back of the tank with dual 1 inch return lines. I used 1 inch flex pvc on the overflows to help with water falling noise in the pipes. I had hard plumbed it first the noise was too much, now the sound is very quiet with the flex.
Dual 1 1/2 dursos will fit in the megaflow section, they actually interlock but work great. Cut out the teeth section at the top and insert gutterguard to allow the full amount of water to flow through. By slipping the gutter guard in you can remove it and clean it if later or if something else gets on it. A heavy brush and some water works wonders, dry it on a papertowel and you are rolling again.
How wide will your sump be? Mine is 24 inches wide interior measurements, the flow is good but it could handle more.
Is sound going to be a concern? If it is you might consider a needlewheel skimmer, the Sequence pumps are pretty quiet and you might consider the Dart over the Wahoo, the Dart is dead quiet. I had too much head for mine so i had to go with the Marlin. By the time you add the head pressure to the Dart the return volume will probably be the same, and less electricity will be used.

[douglaslindsey]

I Thought it was made to be plumbed to the fudg. As far as your UV just go to Marine Depots website and look it up. It should tell you the max. flow rate. Here is a link to Dursos website. look into it for his drains standpipes inside his overflow boxes. They are easy and cheep to make.

http://www.rl180reef.com/frames.htm

Good luck.

[Ryan009]

Sound shouldn't be too bad (but is always a concern) because all the mechanicals will be in their own room.

It's interesting that the Spaflex made that big of difference. Do any local hardware stores carry it or is it only available online.

[douglaslindsey]

you can buy spa flex at Home Depot or Lowes. I would be careful though. It tends to curle at long destances, which can mess up your drainage. If you don't tank care or your drains it's going to be loud noise.

[besl]

I don't see any over-under-over baffles for a bubble trap before the return.

[KH971]

Over Under baffles are a must!!! Spa flex can be uncurled and straightend using a hairdryer.

[douglaslindsey]

Not all have baffles, but they are well worth having. As for the fuge, I would think it has an overflow to the return.

[GuySmilie]

Originally posted by besl
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