Coral Feeding

Sepeku · 04/19/2007, 07:33 PM

After reading the "target feeding SPS" thread and doing some research online, I'm left confused with the variance in food material/distribution.

How do you feed your corals? Specifically what do you feed them?
(If there is a definitive article on the subject, a link would be awesome.

)

IslandCrow · 04/19/2007, 08:19 PM

Are you talking specifically about feeding SPS? I haven't read any articles on it, and they're kind of a tough one. A friend of mine turned me onto feeding rotifers to my SPS. I haven't been doing it long enough to say if it's been having positive results. I've also had some of my SPS polyps grab cyclopeeze. Whether or not it's the right size for them to ingest, I don't know. Many people believe they also feed on bacterioplankton. . .basically, fish poop. I'd certainly be interested to read any research on the subject.

Sepeku · 04/19/2007, 08:26 PM

More generally, actually.

Like what recommended for GSP or Kenya Tree (soft coral)?

What about a Trachy Open Brain LPS?

I use Kent MicroVert for either, but now I'm not so sure.

scumonkey · 04/20/2007, 12:12 AM

Quote:

What about a Trachy Open Brain LPS?

I spot feed mine mysis and baby brine shrimp.

GSP and Kenya tree get only what they can grab from the lights and, out of the water column when I swirl in some rotifers, cyclopeeze and Phyto twice a week.

navipro1 · 04/20/2007, 12:37 AM

I feed mines all mixed up into a cup of Phytoplex, Zooplex, Zoplan, and Selcon along with some aquarium water, then use the Sea Squirt and target feed them, the next day, they seem very happy, polyps open up more and fatter too.

Sudad · 04/20/2007, 04:52 AM

It depends, what kind of corals you have in your tank.

For long time I feed all my corals with a differnet kind of food and tested a lot of products on the market. At the end I must say, that only the natural products (live-phyto, oyster eggs, rotifers and copepods) made positive effects to my corals.

For SPS-corals I use usually oyster eggs (product: "DT's Natural Reef Diet" - every day one small knife point) and with vitamins and amino-acids enriched oyster eggs (product: "Reefstar Coral Energy" - every day 3 drops for 100 liters).
The optimal particle-size for the most SPS-corals is 40-200 microns.
Because oyster eggs offer only 40-60 microns I have to add every two days for some corals like stylophoras and pocciloporas some rotifers (product: "Reefnutrition Roti-Feast") - they like particle-sizes around 80-200 microns

For soft corals, clams and worms I dose "living" phytoplankton (product: "DT's Premium Reef Blend"). I also dose phyto to increase the zooplankton in my tank, that is a nice living food at night for my SPS-corals. Optimal particle-size is 2-20 microns

The LPS-corals and anemons I feed with standard frozen food like Mysis and Krill. Optimal particle-size more than 3000 microns.

I feed mostly at night, after the lightning has switched off. This is very important. Also skimmers should be switched off for 1-2 hours. At this time most SPS-corals pull out their polyps for capturing zooplankton. These polyps has sometimes a different look than the polyps at day. Maybe they are longer and brighter than at day. If you can't see any differences, it could be, that your corals are hold a long time without feeding any kind of zooplankton. With some "triggers" like aminoacids or milk of clams you are able to reactivate the natural tendency to capture zooplankton at night. (for the "rectivating" I used the "Reefstar Coral Energy" - later you don't need it, only the normal oyster eggs).

The result is really great if you dose it regular and every day at the same time. But you have to dose it more than 3-4 months to see any results.

The result: SPS-corals get bigger polyps, better coloration and more vitality. Especially to prevent diseases like RTN the feeding is a must. But one disadvantage I have to tell you: The corals become more aggressiv. You could feel it, if you touch them. So keep a little carefully after feeding them 3-4 months and let more savety clearance to among themselves. Another point is, that you have to look to your Ca- and Alk-level, because the growing-rate could be increased by feeding. A high water-quality should be kept by skimming at day or by an additional DSB-system or other flitration-components. But I think this should be clear.

My conclusion is: "Feeding is not a must, but could increase the health and natural attributes of the corals in our tanks."

Sudad

Sepeku · 04/20/2007, 06:43 AM

Thanks Sudad, that was very informative!

Frick-n-Frags · 04/20/2007, 07:07 AM

nice post. good personal experience perspectives.

04/19/2007, 07:33 PM	#1
Sepeku Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 356	Coral Feeding After reading the "target feeding SPS" thread and doing some research online, I'm left confused with the variance in food material/distribution. How do you feed your corals? Specifically what do you feed them? (If there is a definitive article on the subject, a link would be awesome. )

04/19/2007, 08:19 PM	#2
IslandCrow Reef Monkey Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Rockledge, Fl Posts: 5,759	Are you talking specifically about feeding SPS? I haven't read any articles on it, and they're kind of a tough one. A friend of mine turned me onto feeding rotifers to my SPS. I haven't been doing it long enough to say if it's been having positive results. I've also had some of my SPS polyps grab cyclopeeze. Whether or not it's the right size for them to ingest, I don't know. Many people believe they also feed on bacterioplankton. . .basically, fish poop. I'd certainly be interested to read any research on the subject. __________________ All opinions in the above message should be taken with 35 ppt salt. -Mike C. Current Tank Info: I have a reef screen saver on my phone, does that count?

04/20/2007, 04:52 AM	#6
Sudad Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Germany Posts: 83	It depends, what kind of corals you have in your tank. For long time I feed all my corals with a differnet kind of food and tested a lot of products on the market. At the end I must say, that only the natural products (live-phyto, oyster eggs, rotifers and copepods) made positive effects to my corals. For SPS-corals I use usually oyster eggs (product: "DT's Natural Reef Diet" - every day one small knife point) and with vitamins and amino-acids enriched oyster eggs (product: "Reefstar Coral Energy" - every day 3 drops for 100 liters). The optimal particle-size for the most SPS-corals is 40-200 microns. Because oyster eggs offer only 40-60 microns I have to add every two days for some corals like stylophoras and pocciloporas some rotifers (product: "Reefnutrition Roti-Feast") - they like particle-sizes around 80-200 microns For soft corals, clams and worms I dose "living" phytoplankton (product: "DT's Premium Reef Blend"). I also dose phyto to increase the zooplankton in my tank, that is a nice living food at night for my SPS-corals. Optimal particle-size is 2-20 microns The LPS-corals and anemons I feed with standard frozen food like Mysis and Krill. Optimal particle-size more than 3000 microns. I feed mostly at night, after the lightning has switched off. This is very important. Also skimmers should be switched off for 1-2 hours. At this time most SPS-corals pull out their polyps for capturing zooplankton. These polyps has sometimes a different look than the polyps at day. Maybe they are longer and brighter than at day. If you can't see any differences, it could be, that your corals are hold a long time without feeding any kind of zooplankton. With some "triggers" like aminoacids or milk of clams you are able to reactivate the natural tendency to capture zooplankton at night. (for the "rectivating" I used the "Reefstar Coral Energy" - later you don't need it, only the normal oyster eggs). The result is really great if you dose it regular and every day at the same time. But you have to dose it more than 3-4 months to see any results. The result: SPS-corals get bigger polyps, better coloration and more vitality. Especially to prevent diseases like RTN the feeding is a must. But one disadvantage I have to tell you: The corals become more aggressiv. You could feel it, if you touch them. So keep a little carefully after feeding them 3-4 months and let more savety clearance to among themselves. Another point is, that you have to look to your Ca- and Alk-level, because the growing-rate could be increased by feeding. A high water-quality should be kept by skimming at day or by an additional DSB-system or other flitration-components. But I think this should be clear. My conclusion is: "Feeding is not a must, but could increase the health and natural attributes of the corals in our tanks." Sudad __________________ 100x50x50, Giesemann Infiniti (1 x 250W Coralvue 14.000K, 4 x 24W ATI Blue plus), Skimmer H&S Typ 110-F2000, Tunze Stream 7.000 L/h with Single Contr., Wavemaker VorTech MP-40W, New Jet 1200 L/h. Last edited by Sudad; 04/20/2007 at 05:03 AM.

04/20/2007, 07:07 AM	#8
Frick-n-Frags Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: north central OH Posts: 10,740	nice post. good personal experience perspectives. __________________ Only Dead fish swim with the current. Current Tank Info: 2 50 gal tanks, sump, still BB

04/19/2007, 08:26 PM	#3
Sepeku Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 356	More generally, actually. Like what recommended for GSP or Kenya Tree (soft coral)? What about a Trachy Open Brain LPS? I use Kent MicroVert for either, but now I'm not so sure.

04/20/2007, 12:37 AM	#5
navipro1 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: sac, CA Posts: 335	I feed mines all mixed up into a cup of Phytoplex, Zooplex, Zoplan, and Selcon along with some aquarium water, then use the Sea Squirt and target feed them, the next day, they seem very happy, polyps open up more and fatter too.

04/20/2007, 06:43 AM	#7
Sepeku Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 356	Thanks Sudad, that was very informative!