DIY T5 ATI Style Fixture

GreenUku · 06/06/2007, 12:24 AM

I'm attempting to build a T5 fixture for my new tank. It's going to have have 6 39W (36 inch) T5 lamps with IceCap reflectors. I'm trying to model my fixture somewhat after the ATI Powermodul and Sunpower, which are not readily available here at the moment. I'm probably going to hang the fixture, but I haven't decided for sure.

I would love to hear feedback from people who have tried/thought about something like this.

The plan is to use one IceCap 430 (which I already have) to overdrive two lamps and two standard ballasts to drive the other 4 lamps.

The basic dimensions will be approximately 36" L x 15"W x 5.5" H.

I threw together a diagram using Sketchup (my first attempt). You'll have to use your imagination for the reflectors, wiring, mounts, etc.

The idea with the fans and airs holes is to cool the ends of the lamps as well as the ballasts in the top compartment. What's not super apparent in the diagrams is the acrylic splash shield

Any thoughts or suggestions??

indexfree · 06/06/2007, 05:58 AM

I am currently planning my hood.

I would make the ventilation holes larger between layers and the ones in the tube section moved to the back of the hood making it easier to reduce the light from them.

From the point of view of maintenance I would also position the ballasts so that the weight of the hood is balanced.

Iâ€™m not sure of the type of acrylic you are planning to use but there is a high probability that it will discolour.

Are you planning on using reflectors? I tested mine last night and they do make a big difference.

Regards

Graham

The Grim Reefer · 06/06/2007, 06:04 AM

Change your fan positions so there is a fan above the Ice Cap ballast and one above the other 2.

Other than that it looks well thought out. What you could do is add a baffle in the center to seperate the Ice Cap and the other ballasts. Then mount each fan so they are as close to the baffle as possible but right above the ballasts. What that will do is draw air in through the bottom and across the ballasts to keep them cool.

storrisch · 06/06/2007, 10:42 AM

you might also want to make some type of slits or holes that are above the bulbs to let the fans on top to pull out some of the moisture/heat out from there too.

storrisch · 06/06/2007, 11:03 AM

This is what you could do for the acrylic shield. I think that you are going to end up cleaning it a lot and it is going to diffuse some of the light. Make sure you take into account the amount of room the icecap reflectors take up as well while you are planning this.

GreenUku · 06/06/2007, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by indexfree
I am currently planning my hood.

I would make the ventilation holes larger between layers and the ones in the tube section moved to the back of the hood making it easier to reduce the light from them.

Yeah, I'm not really sure how large to make them. The ones in the pictures I've seen of the ATI fixtures look pretty small. I may start small and go from there. The holes in the diagram are all 1 inch diameter.

Quote:

From the point of view of maintenance I would also position the ballasts so that the weight of the hood is balanced.

Since I don't have all of the ballasts yet, I was just guessing in the diagram, I may put them in the center, following Grim's suggestions.

Quote:

Iâ€™m not sure of the type of acrylic you are planning to use but there is a high probability that it will discolour.

Never had an issue with this before...

Quote:

Are you planning on using reflectors? I tested mine last night and they do make a big difference.

Yes, the IceCap single lamp reflectors, I just didn't bother to draw them...

GreenUku · 06/06/2007, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
Change your fan positions so there is a fan above the Ice Cap ballast and one above the other 2.

Other than that it looks well thought out. What you could do is add a baffle in the center to seperate the Ice Cap and the other ballasts. Then mount each fan so they are as close to the baffle as possible but right above the ballasts. What that will do is draw air in through the bottom and across the ballasts to keep them cool.

Any thoughts on the size of the air holes?

GreenUku · 06/06/2007, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by storrisch
This is what you could do for the acrylic shield. I think that you are going to end up cleaning it a lot and it is going to diffuse some of the light. Make sure you take into account the amount of room the icecap reflectors take up as well while you are planning this.

I was thinking about basically the same setup to hold the splash shield except also adding some little strips above to act as guides when you slide the shield in. I have to clean the shield on my CurrentUSA PC fixture frequently, and their design has a slot of sorts that makes it easy to slide the shield back in.

I'm pretty sure my design as it is would be able to accomodate the reflectors (which are listed at 31"x2.5"x1"). I should get them in the next few days, so we'll see for sure...

Thanks for the diagram!

The Grim Reefer · 06/06/2007, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GreenUku
Any thoughts on the size of the air holes?

I would go small, like 1/4".

GreenUku · 06/06/2007, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
I would go small, like 1/4".

Is there a reason to go smaller rather than larger?

The only thing I can think of is having a more concentrated, faster stream of air around the bulb ends...

I just realized that above I said that the holes in my diagram are 1" diameter, but they're actually 1/2".

Thanks.

The Grim Reefer · 06/06/2007, 04:05 PM

1/2 would probably be fine buy yes, having the smaller holes would in theory cause the air to move faster so it is drawn from a greater distance.

stevedola · 06/06/2007, 04:38 PM

is there a reason why youre putting the fans blowing down on the ballast rather than across the blubs?

GreenUku · 06/06/2007, 10:26 PM

The idea is actually to pull air across the ends of the bulbs and then across the ballasts. Those are the two things that are the most important to cool (as far as I understand). So the fans in the top of the fixture will be blowing up and out.

indexfree · 06/07/2007, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
1/2 would probably be fine buy yes, having the smaller holes would in theory cause the air to move faster so it is drawn from a greater distance.

What I was wondering about my hood is that smaller holes equals more resistance and less air flow. To compensate I would have to go for bigger nosier fans, or would pulling air in from large holes in the back left and right corners up through the front corners diagonally across the ballasts and out through the back centre, using a higher rate of air movement as apposed to small concentrated streams.

stevedola · 06/07/2007, 07:30 AM

So if im installing a retro kit into a canopy, I want to have the fan blow out so that it sucks the air from one side out the fan on the otherside. Rather than the fan blowing in over the bulbs. Interesting...

The Grim Reefer · 06/07/2007, 08:52 AM

Quote:

What I was wondering about my hood is that smaller holes equals more resistance and less air flow. To compensate I would have to go for bigger nosier fans, or would pulling air in from large holes in the back left and right corners up through the front corners diagonally across the ballasts and out through the back centre, using a higher rate of air movement as apposed to small concentrated streams.

You don't need a lot of airflow. The ATI power module doesn;t even have holes, the air is drawn in through seams in the endplates.

Quote:

So if im installing a retro kit into a canopy, I want to have the fan blow out so that it sucks the air from one side out the fan on the otherside. Rather than the fan blowing in over the bulbs. Interesting...

The problem with a retrofit is that you need to be able to direct the incoming air past the lamps. That would be very hard to do in a canopy because air can be drawn in from so many different areas. I could think of ways to do it but it would be a serious pain in the azz.

stevedola · 06/07/2007, 09:44 AM

If im not overdriving my bulbs with a IC 660/430 then do I really need that much air flow? I have a 3" double ball bearing fan that I planned on having blow down the length of the bulb. I should be all set, right?

The Grim Reefer · 06/07/2007, 12:31 PM

Yeah, you dont need much airflow, just enough to move the hot air away from the lamp

hahnmeister · 06/07/2007, 02:11 PM

Here, I have a DIY that you might find much easier...

hahnmeister · 06/07/2007, 02:19 PM

The top pic is the 2x24wattT5 unit I made. It uses a single piece of sheet aluminum bend on a break... the piece is 12x24. This version lacks the fixture' endpieces I made for later versions, as the second pic shows. I ended up adding a 60mm fan to one end that blows across the ballast and bulbs from one end and out the other. This fixture is only for lighting a fuge, so I wasnt too concerned with looks... but it gave me the basic idea. The 4x54watt units I had made are made from a single piece of 17"x47" aluminum sheet.

Since the reflectors do let some air through (esp if you start tilting the reflectors), I am taking a sheet of aluminum foil to the backside of the reflectors to prevent any airflow from escaping between them.

These 'DIY powermodul's are about as good as it gets for DIY... fans and all.

So the last pic shows what I had made out of brushed aluminum at the local sheet metal place. The central hole is for a 120mm fan, and the ballasts get mounted on either side of this along the inside behind the reflectors. The fan forces the air in, and the reflectors trap the air, forcing it out the ends. On the way, it passes the ballasts, and once at the ends, the endplates, as shown in the middle pic, force the air back around the ends of the endcaps and across the bulbs from each end... downwards. The fourth pic, second from bottom, is of how you can vary the side profile if need be for 4 bulbs.

GreenUku · 06/08/2007, 01:27 AM

Looks cool Hahn. Do you have any pics of the finished 4x54watt units??

hahnmeister · 06/08/2007, 02:14 AM

Yeah, but Im so busy right now setting up the 125g that they go in.... they are inside the canopy right now with the light mover & halide, in a box, waiting to be put in action. I will have pics soon.

wharfrat48 · 06/08/2007, 12:55 PM

I am currently building a similar hood for my 180. It will hold 3 80W and 4 54W T5's ini a staggered format. I am going mount the ballasts on an electrical panel as opposed to in the hood. Should cut down on heat as well as the weight of the hood.
I'll post pics when I get them.

06/06/2007, 12:24 AM	#1
GreenUku Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 269	DIY T5 ATI Style Fixture I'm attempting to build a T5 fixture for my new tank. It's going to have have 6 39W (36 inch) T5 lamps with IceCap reflectors. I'm trying to model my fixture somewhat after the ATI Powermodul and Sunpower, which are not readily available here at the moment. I'm probably going to hang the fixture, but I haven't decided for sure. I would love to hear feedback from people who have tried/thought about something like this. The plan is to use one IceCap 430 (which I already have) to overdrive two lamps and two standard ballasts to drive the other 4 lamps. The basic dimensions will be approximately 36" L x 15"W x 5.5" H. I threw together a diagram using Sketchup (my first attempt). You'll have to use your imagination for the reflectors, wiring, mounts, etc. The idea with the fans and airs holes is to cool the ends of the lamps as well as the ballasts in the top compartment. What's not super apparent in the diagrams is the acrylic splash shield Any thoughts or suggestions??

06/06/2007, 06:04 AM	#3
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	Change your fan positions so there is a fan above the Ice Cap ballast and one above the other 2. Other than that it looks well thought out. What you could do is add a baffle in the center to seperate the Ice Cap and the other ballasts. Then mount each fan so they are as close to the baffle as possible but right above the ballasts. What that will do is draw air in through the bottom and across the ballasts to keep them cool. __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

06/06/2007, 04:05 PM	#11
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	1/2 would probably be fine buy yes, having the smaller holes would in theory cause the air to move faster so it is drawn from a greater distance. __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

06/06/2007, 04:38 PM	#12
stevedola Master of my domain Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 3,466	is there a reason why youre putting the fans blowing down on the ballast rather than across the blubs? __________________ Cool Club Current Tank Info: coming soon...

06/07/2007, 07:30 AM	#15
stevedola Master of my domain Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 3,466	So if im installing a retro kit into a canopy, I want to have the fan blow out so that it sucks the air from one side out the fan on the otherside. Rather than the fan blowing in over the bulbs. Interesting... __________________ Cool Club Current Tank Info: coming soon...

06/06/2007, 05:58 AM	#2
indexfree Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 5	I am currently planning my hood. I would make the ventilation holes larger between layers and the ones in the tube section moved to the back of the hood making it easier to reduce the light from them. From the point of view of maintenance I would also position the ballasts so that the weight of the hood is balanced. Iâ€™m not sure of the type of acrylic you are planning to use but there is a high probability that it will discolour. Are you planning on using reflectors? I tested mine last night and they do make a big difference. Regards Graham

06/06/2007, 10:42 AM	#4
storrisch Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: bloomington, mn Posts: 74	you might also want to make some type of slits or holes that are above the bulbs to let the fans on top to pull out some of the moisture/heat out from there too.

06/06/2007, 11:03 AM	#5
storrisch Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: bloomington, mn Posts: 74	This is what you could do for the acrylic shield. I think that you are going to end up cleaning it a lot and it is going to diffuse some of the light. Make sure you take into account the amount of room the icecap reflectors take up as well while you are planning this.

06/06/2007, 10:26 PM	#13
GreenUku Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 269	The idea is actually to pull air across the ends of the bulbs and then across the ballasts. Those are the two things that are the most important to cool (as far as I understand). So the fans in the top of the fixture will be blowing up and out.

06/07/2007, 09:44 AM	#17
stevedola Master of my domain Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 3,466	If im not overdriving my bulbs with a IC 660/430 then do I really need that much air flow? I have a 3" double ball bearing fan that I planned on having blow down the length of the bulb. I should be all set, right? __________________ Cool Club Current Tank Info: coming soon...

06/07/2007, 12:31 PM	#18
The Grim Reefer Ready for some NOBALL!!! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Kingman Az Posts: 25,259	Yeah, you dont need much airflow, just enough to move the hot air away from the lamp __________________ America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting

06/07/2007, 02:11 PM	#19
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	Here, I have a DIY that you might find much easier...

06/07/2007, 02:19 PM	#20
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	The top pic is the 2x24wattT5 unit I made. It uses a single piece of sheet aluminum bend on a break... the piece is 12x24. This version lacks the fixture' endpieces I made for later versions, as the second pic shows. I ended up adding a 60mm fan to one end that blows across the ballast and bulbs from one end and out the other. This fixture is only for lighting a fuge, so I wasnt too concerned with looks... but it gave me the basic idea. The 4x54watt units I had made are made from a single piece of 17"x47" aluminum sheet. Since the reflectors do let some air through (esp if you start tilting the reflectors), I am taking a sheet of aluminum foil to the backside of the reflectors to prevent any airflow from escaping between them. These 'DIY powermodul's are about as good as it gets for DIY... fans and all. So the last pic shows what I had made out of brushed aluminum at the local sheet metal place. The central hole is for a 120mm fan, and the ballasts get mounted on either side of this along the inside behind the reflectors. The fan forces the air in, and the reflectors trap the air, forcing it out the ends. On the way, it passes the ballasts, and once at the ends, the endplates, as shown in the middle pic, force the air back around the ends of the endcaps and across the bulbs from each end... downwards. The fourth pic, second from bottom, is of how you can vary the side profile if need be for 4 bulbs.

06/08/2007, 01:27 AM	#21
GreenUku Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 269	Looks cool Hahn. Do you have any pics of the finished 4x54watt units??

06/08/2007, 02:14 AM	#22
hahnmeister Moved On Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Brew City, WI Posts: 10,156	Yeah, but Im so busy right now setting up the 125g that they go in.... they are inside the canopy right now with the light mover & halide, in a box, waiting to be put in action. I will have pics soon.

06/08/2007, 12:55 PM	#23
wharfrat48 Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 468	I am currently building a similar hood for my 180. It will hold 3 80W and 4 54W T5's ini a staggered format. I am going mount the ballasts on an electrical panel as opposed to in the hood. Should cut down on heat as well as the weight of the hood. I'll post pics when I get them.