|
08/10/2007, 04:09 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 889
|
Lighting Advice For a Prop Tank
Hey guys, I'm a bit lost in all this mess. so i was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction.
I noticed that a lot of the "big name" fraggers in this hobby use 250 20k Xm Bulbs. "tyree, **********" etc But I was wondering what is the "best" best: best bang for your buck For a prop tank that is appx 48x48 and 9 inches deep. Using eggcrate as well. and what on earth is the deal with. hqi ballasts on se bulbs vs hqi ballast on de. Basically my three ideas are. HQI eballast on SE (Radiums) HQI eballast on DE's- still looking for the best bulb for coral growth in a tank or a 400w on icecap, with lumenarc III. (SE) Any thoughts or suggestions This is for a prop tank thanks again! -also considering using t5ho for propping but not entirely sure of this? "worried about people who use MH and the frags change or discolor in their tanks. any thoughts on this as well? |
08/10/2007, 05:05 AM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 889
|
also what reflectors are recommended?
|
08/10/2007, 12:19 PM | #3 |
Moved On
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brew City, WI
Posts: 10,156
|
Are we talking 250s or 400s, or both?
|
08/10/2007, 12:47 PM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 956
|
Another thing to keep in mind is that many vendors grow out the frags in one setup, often with ugly, but very high PAR lighting 10k or so, and then switch the pieces for sale into a 20k system to make the corals look extra nice under the bluer spectrum lighting.
Most corals will grow faster under more yellow light, but look better under the bluer bulbs. There are exceptions of course, ussually deep water corals, but you see my point. Just because the picture was taken under 20k doesn't mean the coral was grown under that.
__________________
I REFUSE to buy Named/LE/High End Corals for insane prices. I REFUSE to pay Per Polyp for micro "Frags." Further more, I REFUSE to sell in any similar fashion. This is a hobby, not the Stock Market. If you feel the same, change you're signature to something similar and spread the word! Long Live the Reef Revolution! |
08/10/2007, 04:17 PM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 889
|
ah both the Se and De setups im talking about 250s. or 400s. basically which will work out "better"
|
08/10/2007, 09:16 PM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 889
|
bump anyone?
|
08/11/2007, 02:05 AM | #7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 889
|
*echo* Helllooooo? ........helloo .........hello .................
anyone?? |
08/11/2007, 12:47 PM | #8 |
Moved On
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brew City, WI
Posts: 10,156
|
I would do a single 250wattDE on a light rail, moving diagonally across the 4'x4' tank, with a g-man 14,500K or ushio 14,000K bulb in a lumenarc DE fixture for coverage. Then, running parallel with the bulb track, or just front and back on the tank, I would put 2-4 rows of 54wattT5s with ATI blue+ and UVL super actinic bulbs (two blue+ bulbs would be fine I think). This will provide you with the best of both worlds... the halide will be the daylight that causes corals to pigment up and grow very well. The T5s will provide the blue light that will make them look awesome, but without the need for bluer halides that lose so much output. The light mover prevents the 'spotlight' effect. Lets face it, the tank is shallow. A 400 would just fry everything, even if its a couple feet or so above the tank... and the disadvantage of a single light over the frag tank is how the corals will all grow to face that light. A light mover spreads out that light, covering more oof each coral's surface with light, for better growth. Thats my first choice.
The second suggestion would just be T5s across the whole tank. Im thinking something like 6 to 8 rows (depends on what you are growing). Id use a 50/50 mix of blue+ and midday bulbs. This mix has alot of output, and the blue will help keep it looking nice. |
|
|