How do I maximize removal of green algae from sand bed and red algae from the sand?

[edmund36]

I have a 120 gallon tank with wet / dry filter and protein skimmer which sits inside of the sump. I use PC Compact lighting about 8 hours a day.

I would like to know if anyone has suggestions on removing the red algae from the sand bed from my tank. It continues to grow. Also much green algae on the live rock.

My nitrates are rising to 10 -20 now, I do water changes, but I am apparently not doing enough. I use a phosphate filter media bag in the sump.

I am continually scrubbing off the live rock and scooping / suctioning the bottom of the sand bed.

Does anyone have suggestions on removing the red and green algae from the tank on a permanent basis? I have already tried Weiss Algae Magic and AZ-NO3 Nitrate remover.

I use Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt and I’m wandering if it contains too rich elements that may promote algae growth? Is there a different salt mix that may help reduce the algae growth elements while providing all essential salt water mix aquarium needs?

I would appreciate any suggestions and how to do them to keep my tank cleaner and reduce my nitrates. I have both Fish & Corals in this tank.

Edmund

[edmund36]

Do you have suggestion on salt mix?

[BrokeColoReefer]

more flow, less feeding, more effective skimming.

[woodycb]

Tropic marin is a good salt, I doubt that is contributing to your problem. Get a clean up crew (snails and hermit crabs). Cut down on your feed until you see the nitrates falling, if you are feed everyday start feeding every other day. Siphon the sand and keep up the water changes. A lot of people will agree with me that nitrate removing media is just about worthless. Keep using the phosphate media though that stuff does work. What kind of water are you using for water changes, RO water should be used, if not then distilled water is the next best thing.

[Sk8r]

Your problem is phosphate and nitrate: it won't show on the tests, but it's fertilizer uptaken by the green algae; the red is cyanobacteria, most likely---it's a common plague.

Steps for remediation:
1. use ro/di water and do a 20% water change, then a 10% change per week.
2. improve the flow to quicken the current and eliminate dead spots.
3. Try the lights-out method: 3 day dark, followed by 1 day actinic only. Test and skim throughout, and use phosban---if you do get an algae dieoff, you want to be uptaking what is loosed into the water.
4. Set up a large refugium lit 24/7. It will compete for these nutrients and outcompete what's growing in your display.
5. drip kalk. Aids in phosphate uptake.

This list in order of ease and expense.

[cayars]

I agree with Sk8r that phosphates are the real thing you need to nip in the bud.

Besides his list I'd suggest you start off with a product similar to PhosBuster Pro (liquid product). This in my opinion is the cheapest and easiest way to get your phosphate levels back to normal values. If you have a yellow tang use 1/2 the amount recommended on the label otherwise use full dosages. Before using this or similar products make sure your Alkalinity is at 10 dKH as the product can lower your alk a bit. If you are borderline to begin with it could drop you to low. At 9 or 10 dKH there isn't any problems to worry about alk wise. Just check your levels and adjust if needed every few days.

Once you get your phosphates down to manageable levels I'd setup a small reactor like a Phosban 150 or similar (Kent makes one) and run Phosban or similar (Rowaphos) product which will keep your Phosphate and Silica levels in check.

I've helped numerous people and tanks with phosphate problems and this seems to be the easiest/cheapest way to get things back to normal.

What you also need to do is find the source of your phosphate problems. Are you dosing DT's or plankton? Are you feeding the tank to much, etc. Once you find the source of the problem fix it or ask for help.

Carlo

[token]

edmund36: The source of nitrates may be your filter system itself. If your wet-dry still has bio-balls, it is an excellent nitrate factory. From what you describe, nitrates are rising even in the presence of steps to reduce them and this speaks to a filter system that is doing exactly what it was designed to do.

Good luck!