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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 26
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Help get my 55gal. FOWLER reef ready pls?
Hi, this is the first time i've joined a reef forum.
First, a little background info on me. I have been keeping freshwater aquariums for 3 or 4 years, i'm 16. I have a 55 gallon african cichlid community, a 55 gal. high tech planted tank, a 2.5 gallon nano planted, and a 10 gallon low tech planted. I have a 1200 gallon pond, many plants, a 10g terrarium with firebelly toads/newts and a 10g vivarium soon to home 3 Dendrobates auratus dart frogs. The Tank: My mom has a 55 gallon saltwater FOWLER tank. Equiptment: Coralife protein skimmer(a big one, not sure which one) Emperor 400 HOB 1 powerhead, not too strong. Coralife deluxe compact flourescent lighting, 2 actinic 65w, and 2 10k 65w. that's about it. Stuff: About 10lbs of crushed coral on the bottom, 40+lbs live sand on top. ~15 lbs of live rock, she's extremely picky about her rock. for CUC, we have 7 dwarf hermits, about 8 snails, a green emerald crab that is MIA, and a snad sifting star. Fish are- 3 green chromis 1 yellow tang 1 true perc 1 six line wrasse 1 lawnmower blenny, who is very dark colored 2 engineer gobies 1 blood red fire shrimp i think that's all. Ok, We are having mad cyanobacteria issues at the moment, can't conquer this. We've tried chemiclean a million times. R/O system is not hooked up yet, so i think that'll help alot. what else do you guys reccomend for that? As for filtration, can i get by with what i have for now, and upgrade to a sump later? Obviously i need more LR right? So, what else do i need to start getting some corals in there?
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Steve irwin- A father, a hero, a memory now- R.I.P homie, we'll miss ya mate. [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g210/dtb3x3x3/zoacrazy.jpg[/IMG] Current Tank Info: My mom's SW iss 55 gallons, about 15 lbs live rock, not doing too well. |
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#2 |
RC Mod
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1 lb live rock per gallon. And I'd stop using Chemiclean at this point---it's killing your useful bacteria along with the cyanobacteria, imho, if you've used it more than once---it's actually lowering your tank's ability to process waste. There's a trick you can do with turning your lights out 3 days running, actinic only the 4th day---but you MUST test your water and skim a lot during that period, if you have dying cyano in your tank: you need to skim that bad stuff out [protein and waste] and be sure your water stays stable while you're doing the dark treatment.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
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#3 |
Moving Out
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Tan Valley, AZ 85140
Posts: 4,898
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Welcome to RC.
I know lots of reefers that have battled cyanobacteria. The fix for me was to use kalkwasser water for top-off. A low PH/alkalinity plays a major role in cyano. Also something along with a skimmer to export nutrients. I chose cheato in a sump/fuge area, but can also be grown in the aquarium. I would also suck out as much of the cyano a possible during water changes. Join the local Reef Club in your area. They are more than happy to give advise (good & bad). But look at their systems, & you will be able to tell the BS from the truth.
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A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Words. Current Tank Info: Getting rid of the last equipment :{ |
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#4 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Westchester County, NY
Posts: 7,327
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Yes, a good deal more of live rock would make, IME, a big difference. You'd also, from what you mention, want to increase the flow in the tank significantly. I'd recommend that you have a total of at least 1100gph in the tank from powerheads and any other kind of flow-source. Also, don't use any bio-medium in the Emperor because that very well may be generating nitrates that will serve as nutrition for the cyanobacteria that's proliferating in the tank. Use some high-grade carbon, maybe, and make sure you change that fairly often...like every two weeks. The crushed coral is also something to be concerned about since that often serves as a bio-medium, which will generate those nitrates that will sustain the cyano.
Okay...what to do now? Get that RO/DI water going as a water-source for your water changes and do more of those. Make sure you don't overfeed and also set up a phosphate reactor using an effective phosphate removing medium like Rowaphos. Consider adding a refugium to the system, in which you'd grow some macro-algae with the lights over it in the 6500K range and the lights on when the tank's lights are on and vice versa. The Chemiclean should work when you treat the tank...It's a short-term "fix," but it is effective and if it isn't cleaning up the cyano for a little while, anyway, then you have to address the problem in the ways mentioned and do that seriously. Keep us posted on the progress, dufus.
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I'd keep the whole ocean if my den were big enough Current Tank Info: 120 gallon reef with 210 lbs. of live rock, Aqua-C EV180 Skimmer, Aquactinic double 250W MH with blue plus t5 support; 58 gallon freshwater planted tank using CO2 and T5s; 30-gallon cube with a few fancy goldfish; and a 110 gallon FOWLR |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Fort pierce, Florida
Posts: 671
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![]() To Reef Central I think these guys hit it on the head for you.Great advice. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 26
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Thanks for the tips guys.
Apparently i didn't subscribe to the thread when i made it, or i wouldn've checked sooner. We're adding live rock SLOWLY, like 1 5lb rock per month. And my mom has been turning the lights on later, and off earlier. I'll try the blackout method this week and see what happens. the skimmer gets full fairly quickly, and is rated for WAY more than 55 gallons, i think it's like 220 gallons or something, not positive though. We don't have a sump ATM, but i'm trying to find a cheaper one to start with, my parents aren't used to spending so much on aquariums, unlike me. We've got an internal filter that my dad bought a while back. it's made by cascade and i think i can take the pump off for now and add somewhere around 200gph. I'll see if i can get them to come with me to a place called alamo aquatics and get them to buy a pair of seios. The emperor only has some phosphate reducing pads and carbon, along with the *biowheels*, which i know most reefers are against, as am i, but like i said, no sump yet. I'll get that RO hooked up ASAP and look into some Phosreducers. thanks a bunch guys/gals.
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Steve irwin- A father, a hero, a memory now- R.I.P homie, we'll miss ya mate. [IMG]http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g210/dtb3x3x3/zoacrazy.jpg[/IMG] Current Tank Info: My mom's SW iss 55 gallons, about 15 lbs live rock, not doing too well. |
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