300g, acrylic work ?s, and overflow ?s

welsher7 · 09/19/2007, 04:36 PM

So I was given a free 300g tank from a co worker a couple weeks ago. Its an acrylic tank 96"x24"x30", but the tank's overflow is in the dead center of the aquarium, not on the back wall. I want to move the over flow to the back wall. So I was thinking I could plug the holes, and cut out the overflow tower. Then drill new holes for the overflow and retrun plumbing. This would be my first time working with acrylic so be easy on me. What would be the best way to plug or cap the holes. Should I just cap the bulkheads or can I attach a piece of acrylic to the bottom to cover the holes? Then just use a dremel or something to cut out the overflow tower. The tank also needs a good deal of work in the way of sanding and buffing scratches out. Does any one have a good scratch removal kit?

kgross · 09/19/2007, 05:00 PM

Sounds like you have some good ideas. Personally I would just cap the bulkheads just incase I decided to use them with a closed loop at some time. On the overflow, I would see if I could get a new one made. Getting a good edge that you can glue from the used one will be very hard. Plus glueing onto the used acrylic of the tank is not a good idea if the material is really high quality you can get crazing. What I would do is make an overflow box that you seal to the tank with the bulkhead rather than having it glued to the tank, just so you do not have to worry about crazing.

On a good scratch removal kit. The rainbow lifeguard one is pretty good, but if you do a google search for micro mesh you can find a couple of other kits. I just can't remember the name of the companies that put them out.

Kim

welsher7 · 09/19/2007, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by kgross
... What I would do is make an overflow box that you seal to the tank with the bulkhead rather than having it glued to the tank,...
Kim

I don't follow what you mean?

kgross · 09/19/2007, 05:15 PM

Make the overflow box 5 sided rather than 4. When you drill the hole for the bulkhead in the tank, also drill through the overflow with the same size hole. Then to install the overflow into the tank, you will put the bulkhead through the overflow with some silicone or an extra bulkhead gasket between the overflow and the tank. That way you do not have to try and glue the overflow to the tank but it will still work fine.

Kim

Acrylics · 09/19/2007, 05:19 PM

I *think* he means making a 5-sided overflow (4 sides plus bottom) that you can seal to the tank, rather than a standard 3 sided box that needs to be glued on 2 planes. If I'm mistaken, I'm certain he'll correct me

I actually like this idea as you don't need to actually alter the tank nor risk crazing in stressed areas of your tank.

As for the Micro-Mesh, try www.micro-surface.com and look for kits NC-78-1 or MA-1, both contain the same materials just that the MA-1 kit contains larger pcs - should last you a lifetime.

Capping bulkheads is a good idea just in case you want to add the closed loop as Kim points out. If you wanted to place a piece of acrylic over it, that's fine but there's no point in gluing it down. Just silicone it and don't listen to those who say it won't work

HTH,
James

Acrylics · 09/19/2007, 05:20 PM

oops, 4 minutes too late

welsher7 · 09/19/2007, 05:58 PM

I understand now. It sounds like a good idea. I will have to check and see what something like that would cost. thanks for the link. I wil check it out

welsher7 · 09/19/2007, 07:25 PM

Sanding and buffing by hand will take forever on that tank. Do you think I could use one of these kits?

the CLEAR SEAS ACRYLIC RESTORAL KIT that the link above sells

or

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...s~vendor~.html

or should I just go with MA-1 and take my time?

welsher7 · 09/19/2007, 07:28 PM

here are some pics of the tank. alot of what you see are reflections from all the stuff the guy had stuffed in his gargae.

Acrylics · 09/19/2007, 09:03 PM

All things considered, I'd prolly try the power kit if it were me.
However...I would definitely water test the tank for a few days first, before putting a bunch of work into it.

James

09/19/2007, 04:36 PM	#1
welsher7 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 896	300g, acrylic work ?s, and overflow ?s So I was given a free 300g tank from a co worker a couple weeks ago. Its an acrylic tank 96"x24"x30", but the tank's overflow is in the dead center of the aquarium, not on the back wall. I want to move the over flow to the back wall. So I was thinking I could plug the holes, and cut out the overflow tower. Then drill new holes for the overflow and retrun plumbing. This would be my first time working with acrylic so be easy on me. What would be the best way to plug or cap the holes. Should I just cap the bulkheads or can I attach a piece of acrylic to the bottom to cover the holes? Then just use a dremel or something to cut out the overflow tower. The tank also needs a good deal of work in the way of sanding and buffing scratches out. Does any one have a good scratch removal kit?

09/19/2007, 05:00 PM	#2
kgross Premium Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Nampa, ID Posts: 5,870	Sounds like you have some good ideas. Personally I would just cap the bulkheads just incase I decided to use them with a closed loop at some time. On the overflow, I would see if I could get a new one made. Getting a good edge that you can glue from the used one will be very hard. Plus glueing onto the used acrylic of the tank is not a good idea if the material is really high quality you can get crazing. What I would do is make an overflow box that you seal to the tank with the bulkhead rather than having it glued to the tank, just so you do not have to worry about crazing. On a good scratch removal kit. The rainbow lifeguard one is pretty good, but if you do a google search for micro mesh you can find a couple of other kits. I just can't remember the name of the companies that put them out. Kim __________________ Proud Member of the Idaho Marine Aquarium Society America will only be the Land of the Free as long as it is the Home of the Brave. Current Tank Info: AGA 180gallon tank, VHO/MH lighting, DSB, calcium reactor, Also a 7 Gallon Nano softy tank, and a 32 gallon cube

09/19/2007, 05:15 PM	#4
kgross Premium Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Nampa, ID Posts: 5,870	Make the overflow box 5 sided rather than 4. When you drill the hole for the bulkhead in the tank, also drill through the overflow with the same size hole. Then to install the overflow into the tank, you will put the bulkhead through the overflow with some silicone or an extra bulkhead gasket between the overflow and the tank. That way you do not have to try and glue the overflow to the tank but it will still work fine. Kim __________________ Proud Member of the Idaho Marine Aquarium Society America will only be the Land of the Free as long as it is the Home of the Brave. Current Tank Info: AGA 180gallon tank, VHO/MH lighting, DSB, calcium reactor, Also a 7 Gallon Nano softy tank, and a 32 gallon cube

09/19/2007, 05:58 PM	#7
welsher7 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 896	I understand now. It sounds like a good idea. I will have to check and see what something like that would cost. thanks for the link. I wil check it out __________________ Dan Current Tank Info: A rebuilding year.....

09/19/2007, 07:25 PM	#8
welsher7 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 896	Sanding and buffing by hand will take forever on that tank. Do you think I could use one of these kits? the CLEAR SEAS ACRYLIC RESTORAL KIT that the link above sells or http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...s~vendor~.html or should I just go with MA-1 and take my time? __________________ Dan Current Tank Info: A rebuilding year.....

09/19/2007, 05:19 PM	#5
Acrylics Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 4,230	I think he means making a 5-sided overflow (4 sides plus bottom) that you can seal to the tank, rather than a standard 3 sided box that needs to be glued on 2 planes. If I'm mistaken, I'm certain he'll correct me I actually like this idea as you don't need to actually alter the tank nor risk crazing in stressed areas of your tank. As for the Micro-Mesh, try www.micro-surface.com and look for kits NC-78-1 or MA-1, both contain the same materials just that the MA-1 kit contains larger pcs - should last you a lifetime. Capping bulkheads is a good idea just in case you want to add the closed loop as Kim points out. If you wanted to place a piece of acrylic over it, that's fine but there's no point in gluing it down. Just silicone it and don't listen to those who say it won't work HTH, James

09/19/2007, 05:20 PM	#6
Acrylics Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 4,230	oops, 4 minutes too late

09/19/2007, 07:28 PM	#9
welsher7 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 896	here are some pics of the tank. alot of what you see are reflections from all the stuff the guy had stuffed in his gargae. __________________ Dan Current Tank Info: A rebuilding year.....

09/19/2007, 09:03 PM	#10
Acrylics Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 4,230	All things considered, I'd prolly try the power kit if it were me. However...I would definitely water test the tank for a few days first, before putting a bunch of work into it. James