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09/24/2007, 11:48 AM | #1 |
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Glass Tops?
I'm curious. I notice that it seems as if noone is using glass tops on their aquaria. I have a 125 that has gone through several incarnations and is currently moving towards a community/reef? tank. I have a canopy that I bought with the tank back in '97? Back then it was criminal to not have glass tops so I have used them ever since. I do have a 55gal sump in my basement now with around 800gph of flow. I would like to know why glass tops are a thing of the past. Gas exchange? Blocking light? Evaporation (Tempature control?) Thanks!
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09/24/2007, 11:54 AM | #2 |
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I think all of the above. I took mine off shortly after setting up my 55. I was battling heat issues, I think I was getting poor gas exchange, my tank looked dimmer, and I had to clean them all the time. It seems that netting or open top has been beneficial to my tank.
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Andy Sacramento, CA Current Tank Info: 55 gallon reef w/20 gallon sump/ER135/ 75 pounds of live rock, 4 in sandbed, 2 b&w ocellaris clowns, yellow watchman/pistol, rosy scaled wrasse, Mystery wrasse, Copperbanded Butterfly, Lighting 48" outer orbit 2 150 mh/ 4 t5 actinics |
09/24/2007, 12:10 PM | #3 |
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I agree with all of the above. If the issue becomes the carpet surfing of some fish then you could use egg crate
This is not quantified by anymeans---but I have found that keeping the surface and first 4 inches of water churning by using power heads seem to discourage fish from that area. I also feed by putting my hand in the tank underneath the locklines and releasing the food so it is quickly carried down. Its kind of like the concept if you don't play on the rr tracks you are not going to get hit by the train.
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
09/24/2007, 12:19 PM | #4 |
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Hmmm....I guess my next question would be what's the cheapest way to seal the canopy so it doesn't rot away without the glass tops. I'm also looking to retrofit a bunch of 39watt T5HO's into the canopy which would only put them maybe 4" above the water. Starting to wonder if I'm heading towards a nice big zap!
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09/24/2007, 12:26 PM | #5 |
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not if grounded properly---and there are intank ground probes you can purchase.
The problem will be salt creep over the bulbs----you will have to take them out and clean them when it builds up.
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
09/24/2007, 12:30 PM | #6 |
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I dont use one. It helps with the gas exchage.
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To reef or not to reef, That is the question! Current Tank Info: 90g display, 55g sump/ Refuge, 400w APO fixture with 20k radiums, 250w 10k hqi, 2-110w vho actinics, Euroreef skimmer, vortech pump, phosban reactor |
09/24/2007, 01:00 PM | #7 |
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I will admit that those are all valid reasons why glass tops aren't popular. However, I still use glass tops on my tanks to keep the fish inside the tank. For gas exchange, I believe sumps are great for this. If any light is being blocked, I think it's rather insignificant. As far as the temp. issue, A fan blowing across the sump has solved this problem for me. Lastly, on cleaning the glass, I've just made it part of my routine weekly maintenance. I don't think it's that big of a deal. Just pointing out that if you want to use the glass tops, you can, especially if, like me, you already have them.
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Shay Current Tank Info: 120 Deep Blue Pro |
09/24/2007, 05:42 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Glass Tops?
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You might run into heat/gas exchange problems if you use glass covers with that low a flow rate.
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/24/2007, 05:50 PM | #9 |
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capn_hylinur,
I have heard many suggestions on turnover - generally as I understand it I need to look at my sump flow as a separate issue from a closed loop issue as pushing a great deal of water through my sump gives little reaction time for the fuge/skimmer/etc. Long before I move into lps or sps (right now its only a wlr) I would look into moving a greater "flow" within the tank. Or am I misintrepreting what I have been reading? I am new to the whole community/reef issue and want to learn before I make any mistakes but running 2500 gph through a sump seems odd... (Edit) - I realize as I look back that I may have been unclear in my first post on "flow" - that is what is going between the tank and the sump alone. Last edited by wolf pup; 09/24/2007 at 06:04 PM. |
09/24/2007, 05:59 PM | #10 |
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hmmm. was just about to buy glass top....now im lost lol. is it good or no
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72 Bow Reef, 75 FW Planted, 90 Acrylic tank being transformed to sump. Larger Reef in works. Current Tank Info: 72g AGA Bow (Current 4x54 T5, Super Skimmer 125, Mag 7, Hydor 3's x2, Kent Hi-S 60gph, 20G Acrylic Sump/Fuge, Dual Bulkhead Overflow, 80 lbs sand, 100 lb rock) |
09/24/2007, 09:24 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
from a filtration aspect you want to assure that phosphates and other dissolved organic compounds are constantly in the water column so they can be filtered out. Area of minimal flow in the tank can accumulate DOC's and cause problems with bacteria production(cyano) and algae growth. Power head within the tank help with this. You'll find the mode answer on this site--that more flow(tank turnover) is better then less. The more water you put through your sump the more it can filtered--and with proper flow within the tank you are keeping a steady flow of DOC's past filter sock, protein skimmers and refugiums.
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock Last edited by Aquarist007; 09/24/2007 at 09:31 PM. |
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09/24/2007, 09:26 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/24/2007, 09:43 PM | #13 |
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Gas exchange? Blocking light? Evaporation (Tempature control?)
I agree those are all reasons, but i think blocking light is the biggest factor... the others can all be compensated for in other methods. If you run a PS, i don't think a glass top is going to suffocate your fish... |
09/24/2007, 09:58 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
thanks...... |
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09/24/2007, 10:57 PM | #15 |
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Clear spar varnish will work to seal your hood. It's what I used on mine.
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210 RR Tank, OctoXtrme200 w/ Bubble Blaster pump, 40gal sump, Eheim 1262 return pump, Vortech x3, K5 - 2 72" VHO w/ IceCap 660, 6x80 T5, Geo 618 Cal Reactor Current Tank Info: 210 Gallon RR |
09/25/2007, 01:24 AM | #16 |
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I have purposely stayed away from jumpers.
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Ralph Mendoza Jr. Long Beach, CA Current Tank Info: 80 Gallon Reef Tank |
09/25/2007, 05:43 AM | #17 |
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lubyone1 - Thanks - is that a home depot/lowes item?
capn_hylinur - I really don't think I'm gonna try to run 2500gph through a 55gal sump 2 x 1" drains give me a theoretical 1200 gph flow and I would need to change a great deal of equipment to swap those to 2 x 1 1/2" or larger. I am on board (arrr capn - sorry couldn't resist) with the tank flow and this will probably be accomplished through powerheads which will also let me tune out dead spots. The issue of blocking light intrigues me as I am planning on t5s. I'm thinking of mounting about 4" above water surface so I would want to shield the bulbs/reflectors from salt spray etc. soooo am I'm thinking I should leave the glass tops rather than buying glass to protect the lights (I'm doing retrofit so there is no fixture - a fixture would obviously eliminte that particular need) My wife likes the house cool so temperature is not going to be a big issue. The pump room in the basement is downright chilly both summer and winter so I'll probably need to keep the heaters running during non light hours. Gas exchange does leave me scratching my head. Dr B, I do run a PS (GS2 soon to have recirc mod) and there is a great deal of turbulance in the return section of the sump but what I am a little concerned of is creating a gas trap between the top of the tank water and the tops. I may see if I can borrow an air quality meter from work and do a couple of observations down the road. |
09/25/2007, 06:42 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
I started with exactly the same pump and flow rate you had--when I switched it made a huge difference in water quality.
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/25/2007, 06:56 AM | #19 | |
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Its not a problem if you have a sump and protein skimmer
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/25/2007, 08:31 AM | #20 | |
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09/25/2007, 09:13 PM | #21 | |
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I'd be curious as to your results... but look at this way, if you have an airstone (or PS) in a plastic cup of water... is the oygenation going to change much if you had plastic lid on top of the cup? I dont think so.. the amount of diffusion at the surface is small compare to all the microbubbles, turbulance, etc.
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09/25/2007, 09:52 PM | #22 | |
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09/25/2007, 09:57 PM | #23 |
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I wouldn't put a lid on your sump...tank yes but sump no.
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09/26/2007, 06:49 AM | #24 | |
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/26/2007, 10:32 AM | #25 | |
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