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Unread 09/29/2007, 02:31 PM   #1
freshera07
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Want to make sure sump setup is okay...

Hey,

I made plans for my 10g aga sumP(20"l X 10"W x 12"H)

. here is a diagram of the sump(obviously not my best drawing)



The baffles are b/w the drain and refugium. I will be using a via aqua 1300 at 4'3" so I guess the gph will be like 75gph when including the tees and elbows.

Also I was wondering how I can bond plexiglass to the glass. I bought 4 pieces of 8x10" plexiglass to use to make the compartments.

Oh yeah and I am not using a skimmer for this reef setup

Thank you in advnce can't wait to get this setup



Last edited by freshera07; 09/29/2007 at 02:37 PM.
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Unread 09/29/2007, 04:11 PM   #2
freshera07
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anyone??


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Unread 09/29/2007, 04:26 PM   #3
Thinslis
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No skimmer in the sump?


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Current Tank Info: 40g breeder, ER-RS80, MP40w, 250w + 2xT5
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Unread 09/29/2007, 04:41 PM   #4
freshera07
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nope no skimmer in sump...maybe a phosban or two in the future where I can hang it on the drain section


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Unread 09/29/2007, 04:50 PM   #5
Thinslis
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Then its just a fuge really. Looks fine to me.


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Current Tank Info: 40g breeder, ER-RS80, MP40w, 250w + 2xT5
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Unread 09/29/2007, 05:09 PM   #6
freshera07
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Yeah Im guessing that I'll bulk up the fuge in substitution to a skimmer.


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Unread 09/29/2007, 05:40 PM   #7
Alaska_Phil
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Looks like you have the right idea, but the multiple baffles are typically between the refugium section and the return section to keep micro bubbles out of the display tank.

Not aware of anything that bonds plastic to glass well. But silicon bonds to the glass well so you might try running a thick fillet of down both sides of your plastic plates. You may need a spacer at the bottom of any plates that need to be elevated though.

melevsreef.com has some great info on sump design and construction.

Phil


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Unread 09/29/2007, 05:53 PM   #8
freshera07
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I'm aware that silicone will only keep the plexiglass in place and wont hold tight if there was pressure. I know that a sump doesn't have as much pressure to break the bonds.

And about the baffles, are you suggesting that it is better to do it before the return. I keep thinking that there is an advantage to it being after the drain so that the dirty drain water will flow directly to the refug w/o hanging around in the drain chamber too long.

Is the baffles used to direct flow mainly or just to stop microbubbles?


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Unread 09/30/2007, 09:42 AM   #9
freshera07
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I think i'll switch up the return and refugium, so that the return is at the middle and fug at the far end from the drain. The sizes will still be the same but know I can tee of the return pipe to control flow to the refug using a ball valve. I heard this is a much more popular choice.


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Unread 09/30/2007, 09:53 AM   #10
Thinslis
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Only if you plan to put a skimmer in, if it is just a fuge and no skimmer then your design is correct, drain - baffles - Fuge - return.

Designs that have drain - baffles - return - fuge are if you plan to skim in the drain section, you want the bulk of your flow going to this section and light flow through your fuge section, controlled with the ball valve you mentioned.


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Current Tank Info: 40g breeder, ER-RS80, MP40w, 250w + 2xT5
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Unread 09/30/2007, 10:19 AM   #11
freshera07
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oh yeah so your saying that my first design is better...what about flow how much of a return pump should I get so that i can use the refug as a nutrient export and also grow pods. Becuase if I were to put the refug in the middle then the water coming down the drain needs to slow down so that there is low flow through the fug.


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Unread 09/30/2007, 12:52 PM   #12
Alaska_Phil
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Here's the best explanation I've found on how sumps and refugiums work, also includes guide lines for sizing return pumps. Lots of pictures and diagrams too.

http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

Phil


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Current Tank Info: 50 gal mixed reef, 65 gal freshwater planted.
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