I just needed fish food, but left with a 300 gallon Starphire divider tank!!!

[Lildragon]

The story goes like this: I am the happy owner of a 100 gallon mixed reef tank, and was going to my LFS to buy fish food. The owner says “Guess who is selling their tank?� and the rest is history.

My dream tank has always been a Starphire divider tank but haven’t the room in my current house. Last year I had been following the thread from hdtvguy. He built an extremely impressive 300 gallon Starphire divider tank, and I was both envious, and inspired. Just like that, I wanted more than my “little� 100 gallon tank!

You see where I am going with this?

I had to make a fast decision (without the input of my better half) to commit to hdtvguy’s entire setup, minus livestock and rock. Oh….and I needed to get it out of his house within 1 week!

The end result is a tank sitting outside in my shed, and me wondering “where the heck am I going to set this thing up?� My current house has absolutely no room for an 8 foot tank…and we were “considering� moving sometime down the road…so we went house shopping!

We just finalized a deal on a brand new build last week, so now the fun begins! We don’t take possession of the new house until the middle of August, 2008, but I have made many mistakes with my 100 gallon, and have a whole list of “I wish I could’a� and a few “if I were to do the whole thing over again� so I thought I would start a thread now to get some input from all of you…All opinions, criticism and suggestions are welcome!

[mj77724]

right now i would get with the builder of the house .. have all plugs install and all water and drains put in at time of build. any thing need for the ranning tank

[meschaefer]

Definitely work with the builder about providing power and plumbing as soon as possible. With a tank that size I would also have extra support put into the floor if it is not going on concrete slab. the longer you wait the more it will cost you.

[Lildragon]

Originally posted by mj77724
right now i would get with the builder of the house .. have all plugs install and all water and drains put in at time of build. any thing need for the ranning tank

Thanks for the advice! I will be getting him to rough-in the drains in the basement for my fish room, which will be located behind the tank. This should accomodate my laundry sink, as well as the drain line for my water changes.

We are also getting him to install a 200amp service (instead of 100amp). I am pretty handy, and will be dedicating 4 to 5 15amp circuits to the tank (for redundancy). The water lines I will be doing myself as well, once I know where things are going to go!

[Lildragon]

So where to begin? The fun part was deciding where the tank was going to go. I chose the basement, because we potentially would spend the most time there. My wife actually wanted the tank upstairs, but after many weeks of debating where the tank should go, and “should we actually change the blueprints to accommodate YOUR hobby� the original decision won out, and we are going to do a 3-way viewing tank in the basement rec-room.

My thoughts about design were this:

(1) Decide what kind of tank (SPS, FOWLR, etc)
(2) Design the aquascaping to suit the type of tank
(3) Design the flow patterns around the aquascaping/livestock
(4) Choose equipment to make it all work!

[Lildragon]

Originally posted by meschaefer
Definitely work with the builder about providing power and plumbing as soon as possible. With a tank that size I would also have extra support put into the floor if it is not going on concrete slab. the longer you wait the more it will cost you.

It will be going in the basement (on a slab). I was wondering if the concrete would be thick enough...our spec sheet says "basement floor to be 4" concrete slab on min. 6" drain stone."

Any engineers out there know if the weight of this tank (I figure 6000 lbs with tank, water and rock) will be too much load for that thickness of concrete?

[steve the plumb]

My tank is 300 gal and its in the basement with a 125 gal sump directly in back of it.I wouldn't worry about the weight since its on concrete.My sub floor was built on 2x4 and 3/4" plywood and I have no problems.Make sure you level the tank.I also have carpet and I did notice the stand sink into the carpet because of the weight but the tank is level and the floor should support the weight.I wish my house was large enough to have the tank upstairs or even in the basement but in a spot where I could have done a room divider or viewable from all sides but I just didn't have the room in my house.

[Lildragon]

Originally posted by steve the plumb
My tank is 300 gal and its in the basement with a 125 gal sump directly in back of it.I wouldn't worry about the weight since its on concrete.My sub floor was built on 2x4 and 3/4" plywood and I have no problems.Make sure you level the tank.I also have carpet and I did notice the stand sink into the carpet because of the weight but the tank is level and the floor should support the weight.I wish my house was large enough to have the tank upstairs or even in the basement but in a spot where I could have done a room divider or viewable from all sides but I just didn't have the room in my house.

The floorplan upstairs has a cantilevered 9 foot area for a fireplace and built-in entertainment centre. We considered using this area for the new tank, but that would mean only 1 viewing surface. Because the tank has 2 starphire sides, I REALLY wanted a divider tank.

The only other place would have been beside the front door, separating the front foyer from the great room. Perfect spot, but we would be moving a lot of structural features, as well as possibly pouring a footing with a telepost that would be in the centre of my basement rec-room. Spending thousands to modify the house seemed silly to my spouse, and I agreed. I also didn't want the "pressure" of having the tank looking perfect everytime we had company over, etc. What happens when the tank is cycling at the beginning, or having some hair algae, etc?

Here is where we figured the tank will go in the basement:

[michika]

You may also want to look into an HVAC system for humidity control. It will save you in winter, no condensation on your glass, and hopefully down the road it will also mean no mold to be found.

So where in the praries will you be stashing this tank?

[Lildragon]

Originally posted by michika
You may also want to look into an HVAC system for humidity control. It will save you in winter, no condensation on your glass, and hopefully down the road it will also mean no mold to be found.

So where in the praries will you be stashing this tank?

I know the specs call for a central exhaust system, but I am looking into a possible HRV unit incorporated into the tank and fish room.

I live in Winnipeg...that is also a worry of mine, because the tank will be stored outside in my shed through our -40 winter! My LFS assures me that nothing will bother the integrity of the tank, but I will probably get him to recaulk the inside once the tank is mounted on the stand in the new house.

Here's a photo of the tank...I "sheathed" it in old scraps of plywood, etc to protect it for the winter:

[michika]

I hope it all works out for you. It sounds like your off to a good start. I look forwards to see how this progresses for you.

[steve the plumb]

just keep the tank dry and free of water the cold can make the plastic crack if it freezes but when kept dry you shouldn't have a problem.I like the idea of a room divider I have always liked the look of that.It is crazy to spend thousands to modify your floor to hold the weight.I also would say that if you have nice hardwood floors spilling water(by mistake) will get the wife upset.I would do a sump separate from the tank this will give you more space to work and lees hassle .It was always a pain to have to squeeze myself if I needed to work on something underneath my old tank.I would tell you that my friends told me my tank would look nicer upstairs but this depends on your layout.I think if you could get the floor supported for less money(bargain with the builder) or get someone to do it cheaper than go that route.Weather the tank is up or down it doesn't matter someone will come to look at it so you will be forced to keep it clean.You also have to look at what do you want to keep how much money do you have and how much money do you want to spend on the hobby.For one you are buying a new home.Things to consider welcome tax,you may need grass,a fence, upgrades to the home,new furniture,more money on extras and things that were unexpected so you have to look at your budget for your family first then once thats done think about the budget for the tank.I would budget yourself for 10k and I am being cheap about this.I am not talking about going nuts nor am I talking about top of the line equipment.I am also not including any live rock or livestock in this budget.If you can get dead rock it will turn live or make your own rock this will save you money.I would also look into doing as much work for the tank by yourself.Plumbing making the stand.This all adds up.My stand is a DIY and its nice but nothing grate it still cost me over $200 for material.If you want to buy a nice stand and canopy thats costly.I know you bought the tank used and you bought his entire set up so I don't know what you paid or what you want to change so this does help.Used stuff is so much cheaper than new stuff.If you don't need any other equipment then that helps because you already know your budget.I have a pick from someones room divider I will post it..

[steve the plumb]

Its a 60 gal(I think)

[steve the plumb]

[steve the plumb]

[steve the plumb]

I an not crazy about white but I like the way the tank blendid in with everything

[steve the plumb]

[steve the plumb]

[Lildragon]

Steve:

Thanks for all of the advice! I am definitely worried about the tank freezing, but it has been in the shed for about 2 months, so hopefully all water would have evaporated by now.

The room divider thing came from a desire to have a deeper tank. I made a mistake with my current 100 (60 x 30 x 14). My fish need more than one direction to swim in!

As well, I am definitely going with a sump outside of the tank. The only thing I want to do under my tank is adjust my closed loop ball valves! A dedicated fish room is a must...I currently have my refugium, skimmer and RO/DI in a closet behind the tank. The rest of the work occurs across the basement in the laundry room (drip, drip, drip on the carpet as I sprint like a madman). As you can see from my possible floorplan, there is a huge utility room behind the tank. I have to see how much room the furnace and hwt take, but it should make for a very usable space.

As for the budgeting, I hear you...My current stand is made out of wood (2x6's, 4x4s and deck brackets), skinned with maple and stained a dark cherry to match the bar next to it. I really like the way it came out, and will probably do the same thing on the new tank.

Another advantage of having the tank in the basement before I build the rec-room is it can go through it's in-between stages without any pressure ("how come it doesn't look as nice as the other tank?"). By the time I get the rest of the basement ready, the tank should be fully operational and stocked (I hope!)

One of the fun things (like Christmas!) was going through the extensive equipment list I purchased. I had to figure out what half the things were! Here are some descriptions:

(a) Tank: 96 x 24 x 30 = 300 gallons (front and back panes are ½� Starphire, bottom and ends are 5/8� regular glass, with 4 braces across the top) - has two holes drilled for closed loop intakes under the single overflow
(b) Sump: 60 x 20 x 18� = 90 gallons
(c) Dart Hammerhead (5800 gph)
(d) PCX-55 (return pump)
(e) PCX-40 x 3
(f) Protein Skimmer (4 pump needlewheel, 16� in diameter)
(g) OM 4-way
(h) Sulphur-Denitrator
(i) UV sterilizer (model #: Lifeguard QL-40)
(j) Kalk reactor
(k) Carbon/phosban media reactor
(l) ORP probe and Milwaukee ORP meter
(m) pH meter
(n) 250w MH lights with CoralVue electronic ballasts x 3
(o) 50 GPD RO/DI system

I also need to decide which equipment I am keeping from my current tank:

(a) PCX-55 (return pump)
(b) PCX-30 (protein skimmer pump)
(c) Beckett protein skimmer (too small for a 300 gallon)
(d) OM squirt
(e) PCX-40 (closed loop pump)
(f) Peristaltic pump (to feed calcium reactor)
(g) Calcium reactor (too small for a 300 gallon)
(h) CO2 tank and regulator
(i) Ozone unit
(j) 54w T5 bulbs with electronic ballasts, SLS reflectors x 4
(k) Aquacontroller II
(l) pH meter (in calcium reactor)
(m) 29 gallon refugium with 24� T5 lights x 2
(n) 250 watt heater x 2
(o) LED moonlights x 3
(p) 50 GPD RO/DI system

As you can see, I have lots of planning to do!

[steve the plumb]

I would keep the ro unit you can never have enough water making capability.The extra heater is good.I only have one and if it ever goes bad I am in trouble.I do have another won brother heater but I am not crazy about that one.I have my tank drilled with the OM 8 way so all plumbing is underneath and runs threw a hole in the concrete wall(9 1/2" thick wall)You can look at my thread or I will give you this link http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z47/stevetheplumb/

I would also think about a chiller.Maybe you won't need one but with all those lights and a closed canopy it may get hot.Get as large as a sump as you can more water more stability.My sump is a 125 gal tank but its not completely full of water but there is enough room in there for calerpa and maybe a section for live rock and frags at least you have corals from your old system I lost almost all of mine.I gave some to my friend but he couldn't keep everything.I would use silicone around the bulkheads when you install them.Let them dry test for leaks and then fill the tank.Its sometimes can be hard to fix a leak with water in the tank.Having a denitrator is good.In all reality with that you don't need a remote DSB.I installed one in my sump but later on I will probably get a sulfur unit just in case.I want to get the H&S model I have heard that one doesn't clog up very easy it a pretty good unit.It is still better to have some kind of remote DSB but the de-nitrator will take care of any nitrates.

[michika]

CO2 tank and regulator
Aquacontroller II
pH meter (in calcium reactor)
250 watt heater x 2
LED moonlights x 3
50 GPD RO/DI system

In the very least I would keep the above. Usually you can swap out your CO2 tank for something larger at a small price.

[Lildragon]

Originally posted by michika
CO2 tank and regulator
Aquacontroller II
pH meter (in calcium reactor)
250 watt heater x 2
LED moonlights x 3
50 GPD RO/DI system

In the very least I would keep the above. Usually you can swap out your CO2 tank for something larger at a small price.

I was actually thinking of using as much of it as possible! I was thinking about doing two closed loops, which would take care of the Hammerhead, PCX-40, OM 4-way and OM squirt. I was going to use the MH lights over key zones in the tank (where I am going to have my SPS) and supplement with 8 T5 actinic bulbs.

Because I am planning on upgrading my livestock, the large skimmer, UV, sulphur-denitrator, and carbon/phosban reactors will probably be very necessary.

[Lildragon]

Originally posted by steve the plumb
I would keep the ro unit you can never have enough water making capability.The extra heater is good.I only have one and if it ever goes bad I am in trouble.I do have another won brother heater but I am not crazy about that one.I have my tank drilled with the OM 8 way so all plumbing is underneath and runs threw a hole in the concrete wall(9 1/2" thick wall)You can look at my thread or I will give you this link http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z47/stevetheplumb/
I would also think about a chiller.Maybe you won't need one but with all those lights and a closed canopy it may get hot.Get as large as a sump as you can more water more stability.My sump is a 125 gal tank but its not completely full of water but there is enough room in there for calerpa and maybe a section for live rock and frags at least you have corals from your old system I lost almost all of mine.I gave some to my friend but he couldn't keep everything.I would use silicone around the bulkheads when you install them.Let them dry test for leaks and then fill the tank.Its sometimes can be hard to fix a leak with water in the tank.Having a denitrator is good.In all reality with that you don't need a remote DSB.I installed one in my sump but later on I will probably get a sulfur unit just in case.I want to get the H&S model I have heard that one doesn't clog up very easy it a pretty good unit.It is still better to have some kind of remote DSB but the de-nitrator will take care of any nitrates.

I had two WON brothers heaters (the digital expensive kind) and one went after 13 months (warranty is 12 months ) and the other went 3 weeks later! Tried contacting the company and didn't even get a response.

I am considering having the tank drilled for my 4-way, but I was a little nervous about the bulkheads. My LFS also suggested silicone, so I will probably go that way...if I go over the top, there are too many 90s and it will cut my flow way down (not that I NEED 5800 gph! )

The sump I bought is only a 90 gal and it looks like it is set up for maybe 50 gallons while running. I am planning on having a big refugium (100 gal?) with another DSB. I have a slight nitrate problem in my current tank - it has to do with the new powder blue and unicorn tang I bought, and the fact that I stepped up the feeding schedule....I just set up the denitrator 2 nights ago, so I will have a full 8 months testing it to see how things go!

I am hoping I won't need a chiller (my current tank is fine with just 2 computer fans) and I was going to put a more powerful fan in the canopy of the new tank....however, I am not currently running halides, so I am sure that will add a lot of heat.

[Lildragon]

Yawn.....stretch............first post after 10 months....

Update: the house is almost finished and I moved the tank into the new basement before having the rec room framed.

To answer the questiion as to whether the tank would survive -40 degree temperatures: One of my braces was loose and came off very easily!!! The silicone was very brittle, so the first order of business once I move into the house, is to cut all the silicone off the tank and re-caulk everything.

[reefer334]

So are you going FOWLR or SPS Reef?


That sucks about the silicone!!!

Chris